What is the total cost and is it difficult to install?

About $140

Super easy to install.

Took me about 15 mins.

No adjustments are necessary as the default settings are really close, but you can fiddle with it if you want with the software off his site.

I looked and I know others swear by this thing but on this game in particular I couldn't see a difference (or at least worthwhile). Def wasn't worth it to me but glad others can see it!

Its the difference between instant on/off leds and smooth ramping up and down.

Brightness and color is unaffected.

Incandescents ramp and down smoothly.

During a game while watching the ball its hard to see anything but the ball.

I find that with LEDOCD the harshness of LEDs is reduced and reduces eye fatigue.

Attract mode is vastly improved.

On some games that utilize GI dimming in modes.

GIOCD is really nice too.

That said however, regular leds work better than the non-ghoting ones.

Non ghosting leds dont dim as good as standard ones.

Its possible that the game you looked at had non-ghosting leds in it.

The effect is less dramatic.
But its still there.

I would have to spend a lot to get all my pins done with that upgrade! I am happy with them as is. I turned off the dimming.

Thanks for the info.

non-ghosting LEDs basically cancel out the effects of the board - and there's 2 parts to the settings. You install the board, but the base settings are generic for all games, and work pretty well, but if you spend some time on your specific machine, you can get some very noticeable changes. It's fairly dramatic on certain machines. Twilight Zone and TAF for example. Monster bash? don't even bother. The inserts change so fast in attract mode it barely has any effect.

I had to adjust the delay setting just a little to fix the fast flashing of a couple inserts.

It worked very well.

Install an incandescent bulb in that one insert and be done.

I have read this and have a few of these boards, I have non ghosting leds in my FT and the OCD board still works fine, makes a big difference. FT looks terrible without it.
My CV GI is non ghosting and ok too with GIOCD. I was glad because I didn’t want to start swopping the leds out.
Maybe it’s a brand thing but if adding leds best to get the cheaper standard leds with the board for the full effect.
Need to get the GIOCD for my TAF one day.

Will have to mess with the settings as mine are all on generic still.

Settings arent too bad to adjust.

Fast flashing? maybe adjust the delay.

Slight ghosting? maybe adjust the max brightness down a bit.

Were there any code versions besides GOLD

That released the locked balls

Running L3 now

I know the differences are very minimal with Addams Family

Thanks !!

Any Addams for sale?

I have one, but in Germany.

Dumb question but I’m looking to change the flasher by thing on the game and it's very challenging. I would like to remove the plastic but it looks like I need to hold the bottom as the screw is just spinning but I can’t reach the bottom.

Any tips?

Btw really happy with the Uncle fester mod I just bought. It looks just like the real thing. Highly recommend

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Where did you buy it?

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1253-creo-pinball/03644-fester-addams

Sorry to dig up an old post but looking to upgrade my bumper lights and saw this post. Did you need an OCD board for these too work?

I do the Britecaps EVO from Pinball Life on most all of my Bally/Williams machines. Love the color tops and the white LEDs that are directed down. I have no OCD boards on any of my machine's and have no problem with effectiveness.

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I have a rattle that is caused by the two backbox speakers vibrating the plastic that covers the speaker panel. If I press the plastic against the speaker panel, the rattle goes away. I noticed that the plastic is not adhered to the speaker panel. I think I need to glue the plastic to the speaker panel, but I don't want to damage either one. I am certain that it is the plastic vibrating, as I have verified this several ways (pressing it gently, adding a felt pad behind the speaker panel, etc.)

What adhesive do you guys recommend for this?

any thoughts on this?

It’s a pain. I just removed the whole stack of the pieces, not just the top. Just screws into the rails, but even that is a pain because the playfield doesn’t slide forward at all. Then once the whole plastic was pulled out, you just replace the bulb from underneath.

Thanks. Not seeing where the accessibility point for that entire stack is. You mention the rails? I'll revisit....

Anyone know where I can source the mini leds like the one that is in the mouth of Uncle Lester? Looking to light up headlights on a model car. Any leads appreciated. Thanks all

My picture is pretty bad, but I drew on an arrow as to where there’s a screw to remove the whole hunk of plastic. It’s the small cutout in the blue area. It’s tight, and you’ll need a long narrow screwdriver. I believe there’s 2. One that I highlighted, and one just above it. But that’s it. Once those screws are removed, you can pull the plastic and replace the bulb.

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There are two gaps in the plastic on the right hand side, where the plastic meets the side of the cabinet. If you look down from above you will see that there is a similar gap on all three pieces of the stack, providing access to a screw that attaches the stack to the wooden side rail.

You need a long, thin, magnetic tip Philips head screwdriver to reach down and unscrew those two screws. You may be able to just unscrew them slightly and maneuver the stack out from underneath, but you don't have any room with the metal ramp in the way. The only way I could remove it was by removing the screws entirely and then lifting the whole stack up, whilst praying the screws stayed in place.

It is a horrible job that requires surgical precision, and it's very easy to lose the screws if you're not careful. I did it once to change the two bulbs there (GI and flasher) and I would not want to ever do it again.

I just used normal double-sided tape (Scotch). (I didn't have a rattling problem, but I've been getting into my backbox a lot and didn't like it 'catching' on the channel lip.)

I posted about my (positive) experience with LED OCD and GI OCD a while back: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-the-addams-family-club-tafmembers-fans-welcome/page/73#post-5531866

Goodbye ....Thing old boy !

After 10 years my TAF is moving on. An all time classic but I have had my fun , and space and money are needed for others

Was hoping someone could offer some insight
Finally,after three months I got my Addams working 100%

So I thought.

Thing stopped working,I switched the EMI board and he worked for a couple days

He stopped again,now I am thinking I just didn’t get a bad EMI board in the mail I’ve gone through two in two days

I noticed in switch test that when I press the left out lane it triggers two beeps,two switches are activated,the other one being “thing up opto”,the next and last switch in that row

I am convinced right now that this is where the problem is

I guess I would need to trace the wire from the outlane to thing looking for breaks or a short?

Very frustrating any insight would be appreciated thought maybe someone has seen or dealt with this

Problem resolved

What was it?

What’s the preferred game roms?

I figured I'd get my GIOCD and LEDOCD boards installed since I always preach to others about it being mandatory. I've been sitting on them for a few months now and I told myself before I installed them I needed to get my new ramps installed and pop bumpers rebuilt first. "Motivation" because I despise this game with LED's. Finished that project and I figured I'd chase down another annoying issue another member in another post mentioned..... hitting (A) target also lit up a GREED letter. Found the diode was on backwards on the target. So now with everything installed and working it was time to do the boards. I'm no stranger to these as I've put them in every game I own. This time I had a really odd problem. I had tested the LEDOCD after install and it worked fine. After installing the GIOCD I got a slam switch tilt warning and it kept rebooting to the same error. I unhooked the slam tilt and the game booted up but only 4 GI lights came on but no playfield lights. The LEDOCD board appeared dead. I triple checked every cable. Everything was good. Disconnected the GIOCD board and still no pf lights. I checked to ensure the data ribbon cable was oriented properly and no pins missed. That checked out OK as well. Fuses on both units checked out OK. Eventually I found simply reseating the ribbon cable on the CPU board @ header 211 was the magic needed. I cannot believe a slam tilt message would be produced by this. So odd. Seriously, running LEDs without these boards is just sharp and aggravating. Hergs boards truly are mandatory when using LED's.

Cannot agree more.

Does anyone make custom playfield plastics for TAF? or does anyone have scans of the plastics?

I have a weird question: there's a TAF at my local bar, and the ramp's diverter coil makes a loud, dry snapping sound when it activates. Kind of like a knocker that's 100% treble, it's pretty hard to describe.
I finally bought an Addams today, and since I've an acquired taste for this sound, I'd like my machine to sound the same, but I have absolutely no idea how to achieve this.
Any clue?

What a roller coaster! I actually had the same issue (but it was after I had installed the LED and CI OCD boards; I was unseating cables while installing a PinSound to test out). As soon as slam tilt came on I freaked out, powered off the game, and double-checked all my cables which is when I found the ribbon at 211 wasn't fully seated.

I *think* mine makes the same sound (it does remind me of a knocker), but I have no idea why. I never really had anything to compare it to (before buying it in December, the last time I played the game was in 1993). I just got my hands on a second machine but it'll be a few days before it's playable, I'll compare when it's running and see if it sounds the same.

That is the noise when the diverter hits the cabinet. I think you can adjust the diverter from underneath the playfield. I am not near our game at the moment to help out further.

I had to rebuild the pop bumpers in my game so I decided to do a little bit different twist. Clear bodies, green skirts, comet discs, and starburst caps (caps on order). I’m pleased with how it came out

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Neat! I like how much light it adds to the graveyard.

I have to repair a bumper light so I figured I'd go through and do something similar. I'm going to try color-matching the bodies and skirts, although if that looks too much like clown puke, I may try either white, green, or yellow (or possibly green with 1-2 in yellow based on position). Whenever I get around to it I'm planning on posting pictures.

I like matching the skirts with the caps when I do them.

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Thanks for the answers! Any idea how to adjust it so that it slams the cabinet real good?

One other thing: several solenoids are too powerful; the flippers send the ball flying if I hit some target (but most of the miss the reinforced part in the back) or the left ramp, and the thing scoop kickout actually makes the ball jump a little. How can I make them a little softer?

Edit: I also noticed that getting an extra ball fires the knocker. It's the first machine I see doing this, and I don't really see anything related in the menu.

Edit 2 (sorry, I'm forgetful and tired): the bookcase has been damaged and somewhat repaired, but not always even with the playfield so I'll have to change it. Just to make sure: it's not supposed to be somewhat loose when you hit it, is it?

Installed a dmd extender and screen on the apron of my Addams today. Pretty cool mod. Many thanks to drpinball.co.uk

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That‘s how its supposed to be. Knocker fires when Cousin It gets hit by the ball on the dmd.

What the crap? Where do I get more info on this!

Pm sent

I‘d love to know the source as well!

Pm sent