(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

6 years ago



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  • 3,835 posts
  • 419 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by oradke
  • Topic is favorited by 262 Pinsiders

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There are 3835 posts in this topic. You are on page 76 of 77.
#3751 58 days ago
Quoted from trimoto:

I also would like to ad I didn't have 3 amp fuze I tried a 4 amp Fuze breaker in that auxiliary driver board which caused A Flash on my driver board upper right hand side now it no longer works luckily I had another game that I could pull one from to test but things still. I did not hook up that auxiliary driver board after that.
I'm very leery of this I don't wanna fry my driver from getaway......

You learned the hard way to never overfuse. You have a short somewhere which is likely on the playfield since you just did a heart transplant on it.

You’ll need to get that board repaired and figure out the issue on the playfield causing the short.

#3752 56 days ago
Quoted from MintIndeed:

I just got my coin door and shooter housing refinished from Chris @ pinballplating.com / Hot Rod Arcade, along with a full set of gloss black hardware (rails, lockdown bar, legs, hinges). Couldn't be happier - before & after pictures attached!
We decided to get the existing coin door refinished rather than a new one, since this has the original layout (single return slot, wide spaced coin inserts, and vintage dents).
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great!

#3753 56 days ago

I finally resolved my issue with the Thing dropping the ball right after it picked it up. Removed the wire harness, cut most of the old wire out, leaving only about 1" from the coil and from the molex connector, and soldered in new wire. Now it holds the ball firmly. Whew! It had always been flaky but one day it dropped every ball, so that was the final straw.
Wasn't terribly difficult but wasn't sure exactly how to do it. Once the bolt is unscrewed from the hand, you can just pull the coil and the harness comes out though the hand ( of course you have to disconnect the harness from below first). The molex connector has just enough space to get through there.

#3754 53 days ago

Been working the last month or two to get my Addams back to life
At this point everything seems to be working BUT F901? blows at start up every time on the extra flipper power board
It’s a new board
Was wondering if anyone had any insight as to why or where to begin to look
Thanks
1453AE74-1504-4760-9F13-FD23DF61784D (resized).jpeg

#3755 53 days ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Been working the last month or two to get my Addams back to life
At this point everything seems to be working BUT F901? blows at start up every time on the extra flipper power board
It’s a new board
Was wondering if anyone had any insight as to why or where to begin to look
Thanks [quoted image]

#3756 53 days ago

I'd check to see if you have:
Diode backwards on upper flipper
Diode grounding out on upper flipper

#3757 53 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

I'd check to see if you have:
Diode backwards on upper flipper
Diode grounding out on upper flipper

Thanks! looking now

#3758 53 days ago

I haven’t played the thing yet still working on it getting real close
I believe maybe the upper flipper writing is wrong?
Can someone confirm ?
Very appreciated thanks !
image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg
#3759 53 days ago

Wiring is correct. Diode positions are also correct. You mention it's a new board. Why was it replaced? Was it missing?

#3760 52 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Wiring is correct. Diode positions are also correct. You mention it's a new board. Why was it replaced? Was it missing?

No it was there I just replaced it because it was doing it on the old board
Hooked the old one up again last night same thing on both

#3761 52 days ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

No it was there I just replaced it because it was doing it on the old board
Hooked the old one up again last night same thing on both

Test your coil with a multi meter to see if it specs out. If it does I'd suspect it's your fliptronics board at fault. You can try troubleshooting it but honestly I'd just replace it. My time is worth more than the cost of a new board.
https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-fliptronics-2-a-15472-flp892.html

#3762 51 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Test your coil with a multi meter to see if it specs out. If it does I'd suspect it's your fliptronics board at fault. You can try troubleshooting it but honestly I'd just replace it. My time is worth more than the cost of a new board.
https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-fliptronics-2-a-15472-flp892.html

Done.Thank you for the guidance I am very close to playing this beast and am still blown away I even own it
It’s been a long couple months I will get it going

#3766 46 days ago

Curious is my fellow pinheads have scene this behavior before. This isn;t new by the way just tired of it
After I bought my TAF I decided to throw the goldroms in it. After doing so I started to hear a constant electrical whine type noise. I never gave it much thought as I honestly thought it was the DMD. Last night I installed a ColorDMD and the noise is still there. Then it occurred to me that my memory isn't bullet proof anymore and "maybe" that noise actually started after I threw in LED's. I'm starting to think that's when it did start. I've ordered both Hergs boards but figured it'd make a good conversation piece. Oh, and while I was watching ColorDMD videos someone came to my door and I paused the video. Apparently cousin IT is a freaking skeleton underneath? lol

spookything (resized).PNG
#3767 46 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

"maybe" that noise actually started after I threw in LED's.

If you suspect the LEDs, you can turn off/on the lamps and GI in the test mode to see if is related.

#3768 46 days ago

I wanted to share the cover I had made for my TAF. I had done one for Jurassic Park as a trial and it turned out well enough I went ahead with TAF. For the record this was not my idea but after seeing these on the JP thread I had to try it.

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#3769 46 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

If you suspect the LEDs, you can turn off/on the lamps and GI in the test mode to see if is related.

Oddly enough when I went into test mode and after scrolling through a few items and running through some test I noticed the "whine" actually got quieter if I held down a button and of course releasing it the whine would get louder. Out of curiosity I sat there pressing all four individually over and over and I'll be damned if that whine didn't go away completely. Thank you sir, you lead me to to the fix lol. Sometimes I seriously hate pins.

#3770 46 days ago
Quoted from Alattig:

I wanted to share the cover I had made for my TAF. I had done one for Jurassic Park as a trial and it turned out well enough I went ahead with TAF. For the record this was not my idea but after seeing these on the JP thread I had to try it.

What are those? Table cloths that you ran through a plotter? They look very nice.

#3771 45 days ago

Fitted my thing light board the other day, lined it up before I screwed it down. Had to move my Afterglow board back (like led ocd) as the connector was hitting it and speaker panel would not back in. Looks great, just need some non reflective glass now

#3772 45 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

What are those? Table cloths that you ran through a plotter? They look very nice.

They are actually printed baby blankets from Collage.com. You can have them print whatever you like on them. I liked the idea of using the brochures.

#3773 43 days ago

Addams fam purple cup holders. Just molded today and in stock

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#3774 43 days ago

Last pic was blurry. Try again

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#3775 40 days ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Fitted my thing light board the other day, lined it up before I screwed it down. Had to move my Afterglow board back (like led ocd) as the connector was hitting it and speaker panel would not back in. Looks great, just need some non reflective glass now

Glad you like it! I am not aware of this afterglow board you are speaking of. Would you mind sending me some pictures of it and what you had to do to make it all fit. Perhaps I can make changes to the light board so that other people with that afterglow board wouldn't have to move things around.

Best Regards,

Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

#3776 40 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Glad you like it! I am not aware of this afterglow board you are speaking of. Would you mind sending me some pictures of it and what you had to do to make it all fit. Perhaps I can make changes to the light board so that other people with that afterglow board wouldn't have to move things around.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

It fits in the same position as the led ocd board, so if that board is fitted forward enough it might hit that’s too.
Will get a pic for you. I just moved it back about an inch.

#3777 40 days ago

If it fits without touching the led ocd board I wouldn’t worry as the Afterglow board is not commercially available and a batch was available from a German guy to order and no more since although the plans are available I believe. Does the same job as led ocd.

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#3778 40 days ago

So about to join the club again. What are the best new mods to get? I see a bookshelf one I haven’t seen before....

Trying to figure out what side blades to get too.....

Mods I need fester, bear and that book shelf for sure.

#3779 39 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I like the bookcase mod that's offered for sale by a different Pinsider here on Pinside, but that's a personal choice. What he has done also looks great too.[quoted image]

Who sells this mod? Can’t find it

#3780 39 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

Trying to figure out what side blades to get too.....

I put the creeping death power blades in mine and they fit the theme very nice.

#3781 39 days ago

Mine fit fine with LED OCD in the same position.

#3782 39 days ago

Looking for a Addams if anyone has one for sale.

#3783 38 days ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Looking for a Addams if anyone has one for sale.

I don't envy you. Clapped out machines are bringing $5800+ and this machine tends to not leave a collection.
I spent 3 months looking. Everyone in my area was asking $7500 to $800. Dumb luck but I found a guy in Idaho (I live in Oregon) and he was very accommodating. He took all the pictures and angles I asked for (most people have told me I'm a dick and in the wrong for asking for more details and that's why they don't want to ship as it's easier to sell locally). So needless to say I was super happy the guy was like me. Found a guy that makes normal runs between the two states so the machine was $5500 and $180 shipping. The playfield is on par with the units selling for $6800+. Mansion is fully intact, wear at fester hole (covered by Cliffy) and the swamp has little damage. I added a new ramp (it was cracked really bad) and rebuilt every single mech adding another $600. I found it was missing the thing lamp board so I bought one of those from overseas (before the new one was offered) So @ $6500 I have an above average Addams without the typical over bloated price tag attached. Be patient and change/expand your search radius. Best of luck honored guest.

#3784 38 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

Hi all! I have a problem with my TAF that I might need your help solving. After a THING lock, the machine occasionally wouldn't serve the next ball. Sometimes it is ejected into the shooter lane with a delay, sometimes not at all. I belive hitting the buttons repeatedly or punchign the rod helps, but it's not reproducable.
Trouble shooting so far:
- Swamp trough switches are fine (checked by throwing balls into the swamp while in test menu)
- after thing grabs the ball, I hear the knocks, then I see the ball roll through the swamp.
- After a direct swamp hit, balls are served without a hitch.
What am I missing? Is there another switch between THING and swamp?
Oliver

Got the problem on my #TAF fixed! Interesting solution: It was the spring on the THING kickout (#24 in the manual). The kickout would fire, but not return to its resting position. One could actually hear the magnet coil engage repeatedly as a low, short hum, but of course the plunger was already all the way in.

As the plunger also depresses the microswitch, the machine believes there's still a ball in the kickout and takes evasive maneuvers. I fixed the problem by replacing the spring with a stronger one - problem solved. Whew!

#3785 37 days ago

TAF makes money hand over fist on route, and is the "non pinball persons pinball machine", so it's easy to see why prices have remained so high, disproportionately so some might say.

#3786 37 days ago

I've owned mine for nearly eight years. Absolutely filthy, beater re-import that I picked up after pleading on RGP for an Addams project. 10 hour round trip later, I had my non-working prize. It was so dirty, I thought the subway ramp was made of black plastic. Bookcase was held together with glue and Popsicle sticks, and Fester and Swamp metal were falling apart. Many replacement parts and a lot of board work, I think about 6 months later, I played my first game on it. In the intervening years, I've gotten a new main ramp, added Uncle Lester and Thing box stickers, done a PF swap and changed to LEDs. There was just one other issue that drove me crazy, but no one else (besides the other anal pinheads who've been in my gameroom) even noticed. Today's the day it got fixed...

bookcase plastic (resized).jpg
#3787 37 days ago
Quoted from bobnatlanta:

I've owned mine for nearly eight years. Absolutely filthy, beater re-import that I picked up after pleading on RGP for an Addams project. 10 hour round trip later, I had my non-working prize. It was so dirty, I thought the subway ramp was made of black plastic. Bookcase was held together with glue and Popsicle sticks, and Fester and Swamp metal were falling apart. Many replacement parts and a lot of board work, I think about 6 months later, I played my first game on it. In the intervening years, I've gotten a new main ramp, added Uncle Lester and Thing box stickers, done a PF swap and changed to LEDs. There was just one other issue that drove me crazy, but no one else (besides the other anal pinheads who've been in my gameroom) even noticed. Today's the day it got fixed...
[quoted image]

I do like the ball proof armored sign!

#3788 34 days ago

I welcome

Addams Family #5

Not perfect but good enough for me

Been there and back again over the last 20 years ...

Back into the collection ... kids were younger and didn’t understand it as much

Now they get the full experience Knowing rules to fully explore the game

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#3789 33 days ago

I’m looking for a Addams if one is for sale

#3790 33 days ago

Just curious how much a fully restored addams family would get in the states??

#3791 33 days ago
Quoted from Adib:

Just curious how much a fully restored addams family would get in the states??

$8500-$9500 depending on the level of restore.

HEP games go for a bit more.

#3792 33 days ago

Selling an original Uncle Lester. Works 100%. $85 including shipping to the lower 48.

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Added 29 days ago:

Lester is sold

#3793 33 days ago

Selling a speaker panel plastic. I believe it is an original, not a reproduction. In good shape. There is a scuff line that goes across the clear dmd area that I tried to photograph. It’s hard to see and barely visible at all especially when installed and the machine turned on. If you have one that isn’t so great, this will make a good upgrade. $50 including shipping to the lower 48.

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Added 30 days ago:

Price lowered to $40 shipped to lower 48.

#3794 30 days ago

Joined the club this weekend with a dirty players condition game. Needs some love but I think it will clean up nice. No lights worked but I had enough leds to put in. I’m not sure if I like natural white or sunlight better. What’s the popular opinion around here?

My game is the one on the left, the one on the right is my friends that I’m currrebtly borrowing to see if I actually wanted an Addams!!

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#3795 30 days ago

Welcome (to the club) honored guest!

For sure the cool white brings out all the red and blue colors in the back box. Warm white makes the translite look yellowed and dingy.

For the playfield GI, the cool vs warm selection is tough. I like the cool white GI in my Fishtales which makes the blue and green art look nice, but my Metallica glows blue with the factory LEDs and could use a warmer tone.

Just tried shining warm and cool light on the playfield of my TAF, and the warm brings out the neon orange used in center of the playfield. It seems like sunlight tone looks nicer for the playfield GI.

#3796 30 days ago

My left outlane special is ghosting during game play with a non-ghosting led. I tried another ng led and the same ghosting is occurring. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

#3797 30 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

My left outlane special is ghosting during game play with a non-ghosting led. I tried another ng led and the same ghosting is occurring. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

Are you using the LEDOCD board?

If so, lowering the brightness 10%
Can be effective.

#3798 30 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Are you using the LEDOCD board?
If so, lowering the brightness 10%
Can be effective.

No extra boards. All led in the pin. The special is the only one that ghosts.

Not a big deal. All my other pins are total led and they have no issues. Lucky!

#3799 30 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

No extra boards. All led in the pin. The special is the only one that ghosts.
Not a big deal. All my other pins are total led and they have no issues. Lucky!

Its not about ghosting per se, but thats a part of it.

I really like the way the LEDOCD ramps all the inserts up and down very smoothly on the playfield.

Its like night and day.

No more harsh flickering

After installing one on my DW, and seeing how dramatic the change was, im putiing LEDOCD on all my wpc games.

No, im not selling them lol.
But they sure are nice.

#3800 30 days ago

I have mine listed for sale if anyone is looking to join the club...$7600 or best offer..pickup in Manheim, PA

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