Gotcha. Makes sense. Thanks!

I'm thinking of selling my TAF and not sure where to price it. LMK what you think.

Features:
- Clean Original Boards(Gold ROMs)
- Clean GI Connectors
- NEW Playfield
- Perfect Translite
- NEW Clear Ramp
- NEW Plastics
- NEW Fused High Power Magnet Board (barakandl)
- NEW “THING” board (Pinshaker)
- ColorDMD LCD
- LED OCD board
- GI OCD board
- Uncle Fester Mod
- GREED Book Mod
- Bookcase Decal Mod
- THING box Decal Mod
- Comet LEDs throughout (No clown vomit)
- Custom Apron Cards
- NEW Chrome Williams Legs
- NEW Leg Levelers

Additional Parts included, but not installed:
- Pop cap set

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Dh3t7ZcsywQt45uz8

Go for $8K. Only thing I see hurting it is flipper button wear.

Installed my new Thing board. Ghosts quite a bit in attract mode. Anybody else experiencing this?

Yes the ghosting in attract mode was there for me as well, that is what I was talking about in my original post. There was some discussion following that and the consensus is not to do anything about it as some people have the LED OCD boards and it was unclear how they would effect this one.

One thing I notice is that there isn't any ghosting while playing a game.

Best Regards,

Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

Hey Rob - Thanks for reaching out. I don't have the LED OCD board as I really don't see the need for one on my machine. I was just curious if the ghosting was specific to my machine. Really not a big deal... more of a curiosity. It's all good. Thanks

TAF ghosts anyway without LED OCD, it doesn’t have the patch in the ROM that TZ onwards has. At least it’s consistent this way

Honestly TAF is incredible with GI/LED OCD, the multiball startup in particular really benefits from it.

I spent the rainy day yesterday shopping my TAF and installing all new Titan rings. I stripped it down more than I ever had before. This is definitely the cleanest it has ever been since I got it over 15 years ago after it had a pretty rough life on a route.

Things done previously: LED Color DMD, all LEDs, GI OCD, LED OCD, Loop Combo signs, LeesParts lighting mods, Pinball Pro speakers, Tilt Graphics Thing box and Bookcase decals, lighted bear kick rug, fused mag driver board, replaced Fliptronics board, new bumper caps, and a light up Uncle Fester. Also replaced the flashers with 8SMD LEDs, but used black tape to cover 6 of the SMDs - for me 2 SMD flashers seem about as bright as the original flashers.

Work left to do: Replace one broken plastic, replace the ramp with a new clear one, rebuild worn wood and install Cliffy protectors.

The last mod I want is a Cousin It, since most new players don't know where he is on the playfield. I really like this one, but it isn't made any more: https://pinballmod.com/producto/cousin-itt-lighting/ The ones that I've been able to find aren't as nice, in my opinion.
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Actually mine does not ghost and I don’t have LED OCD. Maybe non-ghosting leds actually work!

I have LED OCD but I also have a non-ghosting ROM. Maybe you could try a new ROM?

There is a patch you can run on the ROM that corrects the ghosting.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-no-ghost-rom-patch

I agree though LED OCD with actual pulsing is still way better.

I have LED and GI OCD; Worth every penny.

Are they pre-programmed specific to the game or do you have to program them in any way? Thanks

Per their website:

GI OCD is interchangeable between WPC95 and WPC89 games. The only difference between the two selections available is the default configuration that is loaded on the board when it is shipped. You can still use either kit in either type of game, but you will need to reconfigure the board using the PC software if you do not choose the configuration to match your game.

WPC95 games have GI strings 4 and 5 always on (so not dimmable), WPC89 uses all 5 strings dimming.

But apart from that it is pretty much plug and play, the default settings are good and only really need to be played with if you find your bulbs can’t cope with the lowest brightness.

I strongly agree with the LED OCD and GI OCD crowd. I wasn’t entirely sure and didn’t really even know what the GI OCD did, but I took the plunge and ordered them both anyway. Absolutely worth every penny, it’s not sexy like other mods but if I had to choose between a game with LED & GI OCD boards and...anything else, I’d take the one with the OCD boards.

Since I had no idea what they did before buying and couldn’t find any clear answers, I figure I’ll share my experience here.

In addition to evening out the flashing of inserts, smoother dimming of bulbs so they don’t get that weird quasi-flicker when the game dims them, and getting rid of ghosting entirely:
- GI OCD lets you set the Minimum and maximum brightness of each of the 5 lighting “strings”, which also lets you set the overall brightness. It also lets you trigger different brightness values for each string based on whether the game is active (ie if a solo kid has fired in the last X seconds). This lets you do cool things like dim the backbox lights and raise GI illumination when playing the game, and inverse that when a game isn’t going on. There are no presets per game, but there are basically only 5 lights to set (5 strings).
- LED OCD lets you set each individual light on the playfield. There are presets that populate the labels of each light so you can easily see what it is, but no preset brightness settings (they’re all the same default brightness as a normal LED).

It doesn’t let you control flasher brightness, at least not on TAF.

Another note on brightness: you may think the brightness is fine or not too bright, but dimming all the lights made such a HUGE difference. I didn’t realize how fatigued my eyes were from the brighter lights. Also, colours are way more vibrant at dimmer settings. Green and yellow in particular look much more “green” and “yellow” with lower brightness. I did not expect this, but if I did it would have been a huge selling point for me. Plus when comparing side by side with a newer machine (Alice Cooper Nightmare Castle), the LEDs on that machine are not nearly as bright as an LED converted pre-OCD Addams Family. So this normalized the brightness, which is also a plus.

You can also test different settings before you apply them, load all the settings onto your game to see it in action without having to commit (save), and save different overall configurations as files and load them whenever you wish.

Configuring it does require a laptop, which you only need when changing settings. You don’t have to have a computer continually hooked up to your machine.

There is web software that can be used for Linux or Mac, or native applications for Windows. I am a software developer with a Mac and I honestly got a bit frustrated trying to set up the Linux/web version, even with the provided VMware image (there’s no free VMware client for Mac), so I loaded up a free Windows developer image (available from Microsoft) into VirtualBox (also free) and used the Windows apps. They worked great and was easy to use.

Hope that helps somebody!

The only downside to GI OCD and TAF is the insert panel blinking bulbs no longer blink. I saw Herg’s post about customizing LEDs by adding an internal capacitor but I haven’t tried that yet.

I wish someone in the USA sold the Noflix bulbs since they work out the box without mods.

I'm not sure I follow here, unless I'm misunderstanding... All of the bulbs that should blink in my TAFG blink and I have both the GI OCD and LED OCD boards on my TAFG.

Jeff

Mine do too. I’ve never understood what people are talking about when they say their blinkers aren’t working with those boards. Maybe I’m just not observant enough.

Is it because an LED is normally on or off so they are under the impression they aren’t supposed to slowly dim when being turned off?

Alright, now I feel stupid but relieved at the same time

I was doing some research a while back before I started my TAF rebuild and found the following post from Herg on how he modified Comet bulbs so they would blink since back then blinking was not working for everyone with GI OCD:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/club-led-ocd-tips-tricks-thoughts-and-advice/page/4#post-2246759

I must have never tested whether the current Comet bulbs actually worked. I just installed a set of Comet "1 SMD 6.3V BA95 44/47 Slow Binking Warm White Bulbs" and yep they blink.

Which is awesome cause I was not looking forward to modding bulbs

Question for the tech crowd:

I’m having an odd flasher issue. Left bolt and thing flipper flashers don’t work properly. First I noticed that the thing flipper flasher was out. Replaced the bulb, still no go. So I figured that there must be an issue with the wiring. Looked under the playfield, and lo and behold: the black/yellow wire attached to the left bolt was clipped. Resoldered it, and now the thing flipper flasher works, but the lightning bolt no longer works. Wiring looks good otherwise. Anyone have any ideas?

you swap out the lightning bolt bulb to be safe?

Problem solved. Must’ve been purely coincidental, but the lightning bolt flasher was burnt out. I never bothered checking it because it was literally just working before reconnecting the wire. Thanks!

Best kind of repairs!!

So I fitted my PinShakers THING light board today. It’s a great bit of kit, and solves the problem of ColorDMD having to be mounted high, stopping the hinged panel from opening unless you drop the speaker panel, and casting a shadow on part of the translite.

Installation was super simple, and obvious. I especially like that it’s been designed to accommodate Flipper Fidelity speakers (I presume others are compatible too)

I’m still torn between warm and cool white. Currently got cool white installed, which is brighter, but the yellow is less pronounced.

Here is a pretty useless video showing the difference. It is more pronounced to the naked eye:

One tip: If you have previously mounted your ColorDMD above the OEM THING board, make sure you reset the vertical adjustment BEFORE refitting it, otherwise you won’t be able to see the settings menu (press MENU button 4 times for vertical alignment). I had to go into the menu on a different machine to figure that one out.

Quality bit of kit, and works with LED OCD with no issues.
07AF545D-3A7C-4039-98B1-415D9DC24A98 (resized).jpegAE5A7D44-DAD8-44E9-9E28-D7F6969747C3 (resized).jpeg
1289A500-B7FB-4AE8-A952-5B9FA10A1A08 (resized).jpeg
(this last photo was before I moved the ColorDMD down over the light board)

I got my Thing LED board from Pinshakers this weekend too! I love it and it looks great.

I am having a weird issue where I can't get the translight back in - the bottom of the ColorDMD seems to rest on the "U" channel preventing the speaker panel from settling down to the very bottom, and as a result I can't get the translight over the top ~1/16" of the speaker panel H channel. Any tips?

The problem may be between the stool and the backbox... I just realized there was a mounting hole on the ColorDMD in-between "too high to close the backbox" and "very bottom". Basically one notch below Durzel's pictures above, allows the backbox to close and allows the DMD to settle fully into the U-channel.

It's still a little tighter fit to get the translight back in - but that could be a number of factors (I also replaced the speaker panel cover with a new aftermarket reproduction, and I have had some difficulty getting the LED OCD board positioned to play nicely with the position of the Thing LED board connector). After some jostling around I was able to get the translight over the lip.

Did you just have a conversation with yourself xD ?

I made the exact same mistake.

You've fitted the ColorDMD too low. It needs to be sat a little bit higher so the top of the screen is above the speaker panel board. You can see that there is a cutout in the backbox hinged board for the DMD.

I think this is an easy mistake to make because it looks like it's a perfect fit the way you have it fitted now, but it stops you putting the speaker panel back in.

IMG_3726 (resized).jpg
IMG_3727 (resized).jpg
IMG_3728 (resized).jpg

Ok, fellow TAF owners. I sent my Fliptronics board out for repair and ordered a Rottendog to have as a backup. Thing is, I forgot to take a picture of the board before I removed it, and now I’m not sure which connectors go where. The ribbon cable connections I got. But the rest of them, I’d rather not guess.

I have three harness plugs, 2 6-wire plugs and 1 4-wire plug. It looks like the one with 4 black wires plugs into H8.

I assume the one with orange/black-gray/black-purple/black-blue/blank/black-green plugs into J906? Oriented left to right like that?

If so, then it’s orange/black/blank/black-yellow/blue/green-purple to plug into J905?

Also, I don’t see a possible cable to connect to the J907 9-pin plug. Is that extra on the Rottendog board? If anyone has pics with those connections not hidden by a ribbon cable (all I can find online), that’d be much appreciated!

Thanks!
Vaughn
20CAA1FF-E2FF-4B2A-8836-5C9EE8FCB409 (resized).jpeg

I also have the RD Fliptronics 2 board. The 4 pin black wires bundle at the upper right of the board in your pic is no longer used. Nothing in J907. Pics for the other connections below.

20200325_200528 (resized).jpg

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Awesome!! Thanks!! I have a working upper right flipper finally!!

Thanks Durzel, I am glad you like our TAF Thing light board.

Guys I just added these to our pinside shop. We are no longer taking direct requests, so you will need to go through the pinside shop to purchase one of our light boards. The price has been increased slightly to cover an increase in manufacturing costs as well as the pinside and paypal fees.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1206-pinshakers/03613-the-addams-family-thing-led-light-board

Best Regards,

Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

Just picked up a Addams Family and I am stoked and even three days later I still can’t believe I have it
It’s a project but is mostly here and has some things going for it for sure
I need the DMD driver board as there wasn’t one here and was wondering if RD was my only option
Thanks

CAC6D885-4ED5-488B-A1D7-48A87B145254 (resized).jpeg

Welcome to the club! There are other options other than RD. The DMD boards can be found. Do you need a DMD too or did you remove it from the speaker panel?

Thanks!
Just need the board
Would like to know what my options are
The DMD was also not here but I have one my brother gave me from his twilight zone
I was thinking color but first I want it to play a game before I start getting ahead of myself
*Edit
Actually get it to start a game

You can swap the color dmd into another game if you need to.

Got my new Pinshaker THING lite board yesterday. Made it safely all the way to Canada . Awesome , thanks Robert

Man I have search and searched trying to find the flipper button assembly like this one I need one more any help would be appreciated big time

image (resized).jpg

As soon as you get the game working I would add a few spotlights to it, the stock PF is way too dark imo.

I've added one at the upper right flipper illuminating the whole bookcase area and another near right lower flipper aiming at the mansion area. Game gets much more enjoyable when you actually can see the ball properly

After poking around I noticed they call it a 'cabinet switch'.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1A-192

I found the switch my bad I should’ve been more clear I need plug and wire with it I was hoping that I could buy it together I guess not

Hi all! I have a problem with my TAF that I might need your help solving. After a THING lock, the machine occasionally wouldn't serve the next ball. Sometimes it is ejected into the shooter lane with a delay, sometimes not at all. I belive hitting the buttons repeatedly or punchign the rod helps, but it's not reproducable.

Trouble shooting so far:
- Swamp trough switches are fine (checked by throwing balls into the swamp while in test menu)
- after thing grabs the ball, I hear the knocks, then I see the ball roll through the swamp.
- After a direct swamp hit, balls are served without a hitch.

What am I missing? Is there another switch between THING and swamp?

Oliver

Sounds like a ball is hanging on a switch or a ledge.

Yes, iirc there is a switch right as the ball enters the subway leading to the swamp.

Hi all, I need help with a setting/feature that I can’t seem to turn off. Something happened that reset the game and erased the high scores about a little over a month ago. It’s been working fine now, thing is dialing himself back in, but when a game ends the game asks if we want to buy an extra ball??? I went into the settings and buy in is turned off, so wondering if it’s a different setting. Anyone know how to turn this feature off?

Did you check the battery holder on the CPU board? Do you still have batteries?
Most are corroded and the contacts are all cracked off.

After so many plays, it automatically clears unless you change this setting:

Utilities #3 = Reset High Score of the Day after X plays.