Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, and it fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. It also fits with a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers, although you will have to remove the right speaker block to install the light board. There is some slight ghosting though, I will see if I can figure out a way to eliminate that but it isn't very bad as it is.
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, and it fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. It also fits with a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers, although you will have to remove the right speaker block to install the light board. There is some slight ghosting though, I will see if I can figure out a way to eliminate that but it isn't very bad as it is.
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.

Quoted from robgo777:

If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out.

Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, and it fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. It also fits with a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers, although you will have to remove the right speaker block to install the light board. There is some slight ghosting though, I will see if I can figure out a way to eliminate that but it isn't very bad as it is.
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I'd be interested in a couple at least. I have LED OCD & GI OCD boards installed, so ghosting probably won't be an issue on mine.

Quoted from Durzel:

The OEM panel ghosts if you use LEDs, as does the rest of TAF - as it predates the fix Bally/Williams put in on TZ.
I, like many others, have a LED OCD in my TAF so I would very much like a THING light board without any kind of anti-ghosting tech/filter on it, or at least the option to disable that somehow.

Quoted from Durzel:

The OEM panel ghosts if you use LEDs, as does the rest of TAF - as it predates the fix Bally/Williams put in on TZ.
I, like many others, have a LED OCD in my TAF so I would very much like a THING light board without any kind of anti-ghosting tech/filter on it, or at least the option to disable that somehow.

Quoted from robgo777:

Ok looks like there is enough of a need to go ahead and order a batch of these. I will do so today. I don't expect them to come in though till the end of February because the manufacturer is closed till Feb 1st and they are typically a 3 week turnaround. I am going to try and tweak the shape of the board so that the end where the connector is will fit without having to remove a Pinball Pro or Flipper Fidelity speaker if you have one there.
I don't want to hijack this thread with order requests so please do me a favor and send me a PM if you want me to hold one for you along with the following:
-Subject: TAF Thing Board
-Quantity Requesting
-Full mailing address
When they come in I will let you know and send you a paypal invoice for the total with shipping. Any extras will go onto my pinside shop.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm white LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, however I am also ordering a batch with 5700k cool white LEDs. It fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. I updated the design so that it will fit with a set of Flipper Fidelity or Pinball Pro speakers without having to remove them. There is some slight ghosting though, but it isn't too bad IMO. I believe there is a solution to fix ghosting LEDs... OCD LED Board... and it should work with this thing light board however I do not have one to test it.
If anyone wants one just let me know with a PM including (Subject: TAF Thing Board, Quantity, Full Mailing Address). Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. The manufacturer I am using is closed until Feb 1st, and they are about a 3 week turn-around so expect them in stock around the middle to end of February.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Can the LEDs be replaced, or are they soldered in place ?
Awesome mod !

Quoted from robgo777:

Ok looks like there is enough of a need to go ahead and order a batch of these. I will do so today. I don't expect them to come in though till the end of February because the manufacturer is closed till Feb 1st and they are typically a 3 week turnaround. I am going to try and tweak the shape of the board so that the end where the connector is will fit without having to remove a Pinball Pro or Flipper Fidelity speaker if you have one there.
I don't want to hijack this thread with order requests so please do me a favor and send me a PM if you want me to hold one for you along with the following:
-Subject: TAF Thing Board
-Quantity Requesting
-Full mailing address
When they come in I will let you know and send you a paypal invoice for the total with shipping. Any extras will go onto my pinside shop.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

Quoted from PinballgeekSr:

Pm sent for 2
Dr who TAF share the same boards too

Quoted from mbaumle:

Quick question for you all. Just got my game set up, and its in need of a deep shop job. Really, my intentions will be to do a full topside teardown and rebuild. Looks like it still uses the older style of playfield prop as used by System 11 games, as opposed to the slides they used on later WPC games. Can the same "slide the playfield onto the wood" trick work on Addams so that I can access the entire playfield without having to pull the whole thing out? I don't have a rotisserie, so working on the playfield in-game is currently my only real option.

Quoted from fiberdude120:

Any help here will be appreciated. One min my TAF worked fine and now when switched on I get a garbled dmd and all the leds on the boards stay lit. No action on the playfield at all. Any thoughts before I start to dig in? Thanks in advance.

Quoted from drummermike:

Reseat ribbon cables.

Quoted from fiberdude120:

Already tried that and tried new ones to no avail but I am going to try again. I will report back.

Quoted from robgo777:

Here is where I would start.. this is pulled form Clay's troubleshooting steps for a Non-Booting machine...
Dead CPU Step One: Remove the Ribbon Cables.
Before you do anything, turn the game off and remove all the ribbon cables from the
CPU. This will issolate the CPU from the driver board, the dot matrix display board,
the sound board, the fliptronic board (if your game has one), and any other
connecting boards. The ribbon cables are at connectors J201, J202, J211, and J204
(on some games). While you're at it, you might as well remove the switch
connectors at J205 to J209, and J212. The only connector still attached is J210 (the
power connector).
After everything is removed but connector J210, turn the game on. If the CPU board
boots correctly, the lower LED (+5 volts) should be on, the middle LED (diagnostics)
should be blinking continually, and the top LED (blanking) should be off. If this is the
case, turn the game off and replace the ribbon cables, one at a time, and turn the
game back on.
Start with replacing the the driver board to CPU board ribbon cable first. Chances
are good the CPU board will still boot with this cable connected. Next try the other
ribbon cables. If connecting the other ribbon cables stops the CPU board from
booting, chances are good the TTL chips across the top of the CPU board are the
problem (U1,U2,U3 on all WPC revisions).

Quoted from fiberdude120:

I think I can swap my CPU with my FT to check and see if that works.

Quoted from robgo777:

That or you can try swapping the display board with the FT to see if it boots.

Quoted from fiberdude120:

I tried the display board with no change. I will try the FT CPU but will have to change the chips also. I need to change just the one chip correct?

Quoted from Durzel:

The same part number (D-12501 / 5768-12377-00) looks like it is used in several pins. A cursory Google search suggests that besides TAF/G it is used in Earthshaker and Whirlwind.
The parts list for Dr Who suggests it has a similar board, but the part number is A-15805 / 5768-13288-00. I don't know if that is significant, but it would suggest that it is slightly different in some way, or is otherwise a revised design.

Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Switched to the gold roms on my game
To see how it is different. So far the fonts are different, added call outs that are a little hard to understand and a few more added dmd items for cousin it’s items. There are two thing I don’t like, as I boot up the game, it warns of the coin door being open and displays disables high powered coils, My game doesn’t have have that switch.so that statement is on till you play a game. The other is a buy in. My jackbot has a buy in switch, apparently so does the gold edition Addams family games. If I hit either the flippers or start button, it cancels out the buy in. Kind of a bummer but oh well. We will see. May go back to my original rom which was rev 4 or something. We will see.

Quoted from robgo777:

If connecting the other ribbon cables stops the CPU board from
booting, chances are good the TTL chips across the top of the CPU board are the
problem (U1,U2,U3 on all WPC revisions).

Quoted from fiberdude120:

Is there a guide on testing these with a DMM?

Quoted from robgo777:

Did you swap out the MPU from your FT? If so, are you getting the same results?
Rob

Quoted from fiberdude120:

yes I did and I also took the boards and put them in FT and with the same results.

Quoted from robgo777:

Not sure I follow...
So you pulled the MPU out of the FT, replaced ONLY the game rom, and put it in TAF with everything connected and still won't boot correct?
Then you put what "boards" from TAF into your FT to cause it to not boot? What happens when you only put the MPU from TAF into the FT after installing the FT rom on it?
Rob

Quoted from fiberdude120:

I took the dmd board from TAF and put it in FT and all was good. Then I swapped game ROMs and installed TAF CPU in FT and it gave me the same issues I had when they were in TAF. Swapped everything back and FT works again. One of the legs on TAF game ROM broke putting it back in so I ordered a new one and I will have it this week. I was hopping I could somehow check U1,U2 and u3 in the meantime. Is there a better way to go about this? I am all ears.

Quoted from fiberdude120:

. I was hopping I could somehow check U1,U2 and u3 in the meantime. Is there a better way to go about this? I am all ears.

Quoted from fiberdude120:

I took the dmd board from TAF and put it in FT and all was good. Then I swapped game ROMs and installed TAF CPU in FT and it gave me the same issues I had when they were in TAF. Swapped everything back and FT works again. One of the legs on TAF game ROM broke putting it back in so I ordered a new one and I will have it this week. I was hopping I could somehow check U1,U2 and u3 in the meantime. Is there a better way to go about this? I am all ears.

Quoted from robgo777:

The answer to this question, (unless someone else has a better response), is you would need a logic probe to test these.

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Maybe its time to check the voltage at the power box. The first part of any restoration IMO, is to replace the termistor and varistor in power box. They are old in 99% of all machines, old originals. Many problems with the dmd board and display come from low current at those 2 safety features in power box.
Image is from pinwiki.[quoted image]

Quoted from robgo777:

Were you ever able to try the FT MPU with just the TAF game rom in the TAF to see if it would boot or did your ROM break before you were able to test that?

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Maybe its time to check the voltage at the power box. The first part of any restoration IMO, is to replace the termistor and varistor in power box. They are old in 99% of all machines, old originals. Many problems with the dmd board and display come from low current at those 2 safety features in power box.
Image is from pinwiki.[quoted image]

Quoted from fiberdude120:

Yes the leg broke when I removed it so I did not have the chance to try the FT board in TAF. The new ROM came in the mail today so I will try the FT board in TAF in the morning.
When I put the FT rom in TAF board it acted just like it did in TAF non working.