(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by robgo777
  • Topic is favorited by 253 Pinsiders

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There are 3577 posts in this topic. You are on page 71 of 72.
#3501 36 days ago

Count me in on a “Thing” led board. Thanks

#3502 36 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, and it fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. It also fits with a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers, although you will have to remove the right speaker block to install the light board. There is some slight ghosting though, I will see if I can figure out a way to eliminate that but it isn't very bad as it is.
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

PLEASE, and Thank You. I'll take 2!

#3503 36 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, and it fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. It also fits with a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers, although you will have to remove the right speaker block to install the light board. There is some slight ghosting though, I will see if I can figure out a way to eliminate that but it isn't very bad as it is.
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Cool, I'll take one.

#3504 36 days ago

That‘s why I bought the LED version of ColorDMD for my TAF - the original Thing lights stay where they are. No hassle. The LED is less flexible though.

#3505 36 days ago

Count me in for one please. I’d like a cool white LED version if possible, but if not I’ll take whatever is available!

The other issue with mounting the ColorDMD higher is that in the highest position it casts a shadow over the translite at the bottom.

#3506 36 days ago

Ill take one too please

#3507 35 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.

I'd be interested in a couple at least. I have LED OCD & GI OCD boards installed, so ghosting probably won't be an issue on mine.

#3508 35 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out.

I'm in for one please!

#3509 35 days ago

Ok looks like there is enough of a need to go ahead and order a batch of these. I will do so today. I don't expect them to come in though till the end of February because the manufacturer is closed till Feb 1st and they are typically a 3 week turnaround. I am going to try and tweak the shape of the board so that the end where the connector is will fit without having to remove a Pinball Pro or Flipper Fidelity speaker if you have one there.

I don't want to hijack this thread with order requests so please do me a favor and send me a PM if you want me to hold one for you along with the following:

-Subject: TAF Thing Board
-Quantity Requesting
-Full mailing address

When they come in I will let you know and send you a paypal invoice for the total with shipping. Any extras will go onto my pinside shop.

Best Regards,

Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

#3510 35 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, and it fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. It also fits with a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers, although you will have to remove the right speaker block to install the light board. There is some slight ghosting though, I will see if I can figure out a way to eliminate that but it isn't very bad as it is.
If anyone wants one just let me know. If I get enough of a commitment then I will produce a batch of them. Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. Looking like it will be a month or so before I get them due to manufacturer I am using having their annual "Holiday" till the end of the month.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Count me in for 1!

#3511 35 days ago

I just followed these instructions and it turned out PERFECT... If you can solder, you can make this on your own.

https://www.colordmd.com/Light%20Board%20Mod%20TAF%20and%20DW.pdf

I am interested in the possibility of adding a shaker though...

Jeff

#3512 35 days ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I'd be interested in a couple at least. I have LED OCD & GI OCD boards installed, so ghosting probably won't be an issue on mine.

I can say that I had ghosting on my homemade thing board (using the ColorDMD instructions I linked to above) until I put in the OCD boards, now it's prefect. I'd expect the same outcome here as well.

Jeff

#3513 35 days ago

The OEM panel ghosts if you use LEDs, as does the rest of TAF - as it predates the fix Bally/Williams put in on TZ.

I, like many others, have a LED OCD in my TAF so I would very much like a THING light board without any kind of anti-ghosting tech/filter on it, or at least the option to disable that somehow.

#3514 35 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

The OEM panel ghosts if you use LEDs, as does the rest of TAF - as it predates the fix Bally/Williams put in on TZ.
I, like many others, have a LED OCD in my TAF so I would very much like a THING light board without any kind of anti-ghosting tech/filter on it, or at least the option to disable that somehow.

Not if you have both OCD boards... I have no ghosting on my THING board custom made from the original using the ColorDMD instructions. Not sure if thats what you meant though... If not, my bad...

Jeff

#3515 35 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

The OEM panel ghosts if you use LEDs, as does the rest of TAF - as it predates the fix Bally/Williams put in on TZ.
I, like many others, have a LED OCD in my TAF so I would very much like a THING light board without any kind of anti-ghosting tech/filter on it, or at least the option to disable that somehow.

After doing some further research I have decided not to put any kind of anti-ghosting filters on the board. It is just not cost effective to do so. So if you do have the LED OCD board it should be fine with this light board. If you don't have one, and really want a non-ghosting solution, then it sounds like you may need to purchase one of those OCD boards.

Also, I have been getting several requests for a cool white version. I will put in an order for a batch with the Warm White 3000k lamps, and a batch of the Cool White 5700k lamps. When they get in stock, I will post photos of each so you can choose which one you like better. When I send you the paypal invoice I will ask which version you want at that time.

Best Regards,

Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

#3516 35 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Ok looks like there is enough of a need to go ahead and order a batch of these. I will do so today. I don't expect them to come in though till the end of February because the manufacturer is closed till Feb 1st and they are typically a 3 week turnaround. I am going to try and tweak the shape of the board so that the end where the connector is will fit without having to remove a Pinball Pro or Flipper Fidelity speaker if you have one there.
I don't want to hijack this thread with order requests so please do me a favor and send me a PM if you want me to hold one for you along with the following:
-Subject: TAF Thing Board
-Quantity Requesting
-Full mailing address
When they come in I will let you know and send you a paypal invoice for the total with shipping. Any extras will go onto my pinside shop.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

PM sent

#3517 35 days ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Not if you have both OCD boards... I have no ghosting on my THING board custom made from the original using the ColorDMD instructions. Not sure if thats what you meant though... If not, my bad...
Jeff

No, that wasn’t what I meant GI and LED OCD eliminate ghosting, and actually work better on bulbs without any anti-ghosting circuitry (because two things are trying to do the same job)

Standard TAF with no OCD boards ghosts with normal LEDs, because it predates the B/W patch that was added circa TZ onwards.

#3518 35 days ago

Can the LEDs be replaced, or are they soldered in place ?

Awesome mod !

Quoted from robgo777:

Hey Everyone,
Just joined the club the other day and we love our TAF so far. Finally something my wife and I can both agree on!
I went to install a ColorDMD and immediately ran into the issue with the "THING" light board being in the way. Looked through this forum and found that it can be installed in the highest position but you will have to monkey around with closing the backbox light panel first and removing one of the lamps in order to install the display panel. I am in and out of my backbox enough that to me this is just too much of a PITA. Then I read through some more posts and saw that there was a company that made an aftermarket board.. but the link to their website doesn't seem to work any more. I also saw that CLEllison was attempting to make one but looks like he wasn't able to finish it.
Anyways, I decided to design and create my own. Below are some pictures of the finished board. I chose to use 3000k warm white LEDs to try and mimic the original incandescent look, however I am also ordering a batch with 5700k cool white LEDs. It fits flush with a black colored PCB so there is no light that bleeds through back onto the DMD. I updated the design so that it will fit with a set of Flipper Fidelity or Pinball Pro speakers without having to remove them. There is some slight ghosting though, but it isn't too bad IMO. I believe there is a solution to fix ghosting LEDs... OCD LED Board... and it should work with this thing light board however I do not have one to test it.
If anyone wants one just let me know with a PM including (Subject: TAF Thing Board, Quantity, Full Mailing Address). Not looking to make anything off these, just trying to help others out. Also not trying to step on anyone else's toes.. e.g. CLEllison or that other company that made them, or anyone else planning to in the future. The price per unit should only be about $10-$15 plus shipping and will come fully assembled and ready to plug and play. The manufacturer I am using is closed until Feb 1st, and they are about a 3 week turn-around so expect them in stock around the middle to end of February.
All that being said I am thrilled to be apart of the club. We have already installed one of our shaker kits in the machine and it is amazing. Got it set to trigger with the topper lightning flasher. We are also planning to bring the machine with us to Pinfest for everyone to play at our booth.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#3519 35 days ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Can the LEDs be replaced, or are they soldered in place ?
Awesome mod !

They are soldered SMD components.

Rob

#3520 34 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Ok looks like there is enough of a need to go ahead and order a batch of these. I will do so today. I don't expect them to come in though till the end of February because the manufacturer is closed till Feb 1st and they are typically a 3 week turnaround. I am going to try and tweak the shape of the board so that the end where the connector is will fit without having to remove a Pinball Pro or Flipper Fidelity speaker if you have one there.
I don't want to hijack this thread with order requests so please do me a favor and send me a PM if you want me to hold one for you along with the following:
-Subject: TAF Thing Board
-Quantity Requesting
-Full mailing address
When they come in I will let you know and send you a paypal invoice for the total with shipping. Any extras will go onto my pinside shop.
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
Pinshakers
www.pinshakers.com

PM Sent------Thanks for making these.

#3521 34 days ago

Pm sent for 2
Dr who TAF share the same boards too

#3522 34 days ago
Quoted from PinballgeekSr:

Pm sent for 2
Dr who TAF share the same boards too

Thanks for this.. I was going to ask if there were other machines that have this same issue. I have no problem adapting the board for other titles.

Rob

#3523 33 days ago

The same part number (D-12501 / 5768-12377-00) looks like it is used in several pins. A cursory Google search suggests that besides TAF/G it is used in Earthshaker and Whirlwind.

The parts list for Dr Who suggests it has a similar board, but the part number is A-15805 / 5768-13288-00. I don't know if that is significant, but it would suggest that it is slightly different in some way, or is otherwise a revised design.

#3524 33 days ago

Quick question for you all. Just got my game set up, and its in need of a deep shop job. Really, my intentions will be to do a full topside teardown and rebuild. Looks like it still uses the older style of playfield prop as used by System 11 games, as opposed to the slides they used on later WPC games. Can the same "slide the playfield onto the wood" trick work on Addams so that I can access the entire playfield without having to pull the whole thing out? I don't have a rotisserie, so working on the playfield in-game is currently my only real option.

#3525 33 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Quick question for you all. Just got my game set up, and its in need of a deep shop job. Really, my intentions will be to do a full topside teardown and rebuild. Looks like it still uses the older style of playfield prop as used by System 11 games, as opposed to the slides they used on later WPC games. Can the same "slide the playfield onto the wood" trick work on Addams so that I can access the entire playfield without having to pull the whole thing out? I don't have a rotisserie, so working on the playfield in-game is currently my only real option.

It doesnt pull out and sit well on lock down bar area. Between the 5 pops, swamp and thing box there is a lot of traffic.
Long time ago before rotisserrie I used 4 cuts of 2x4 wood. I used those to pull it out as far as possible and prop 2 of them just inside cabinet by flippers, other 2 at back. Use 4 clamps. Wood was about 2 feet high each.
It works, but still takes some effort.

#3526 33 days ago

Any help here will be appreciated. One min my TAF worked fine and now when switched on I get a garbled dmd and all the leds on the boards stay lit. No action on the playfield at all. Any thoughts before I start to dig in? Thanks in advance.

#3527 33 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Any help here will be appreciated. One min my TAF worked fine and now when switched on I get a garbled dmd and all the leds on the boards stay lit. No action on the playfield at all. Any thoughts before I start to dig in? Thanks in advance.

Reseat ribbon cables.

#3528 33 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Reseat ribbon cables.

Already tried that and tried new ones to no avail but I am going to try again. I will report back.

#3529 33 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Already tried that and tried new ones to no avail but I am going to try again. I will report back.

Here is where I would start.. this is pulled form Clay's troubleshooting steps for a Non-Booting machine...

Dead CPU Step One: Remove the Ribbon Cables.
Before you do anything, turn the game off and remove all the ribbon cables from the
CPU. This will issolate the CPU from the driver board, the dot matrix display board,
the sound board, the fliptronic board (if your game has one), and any other
connecting boards. The ribbon cables are at connectors J201, J202, J211, and J204
(on some games). While you're at it, you might as well remove the switch
connectors at J205 to J209, and J212. The only connector still attached is J210 (the
power connector).
After everything is removed but connector J210, turn the game on. If the CPU board
boots correctly, the lower LED (+5 volts) should be on, the middle LED (diagnostics)
should be blinking continually, and the top LED (blanking) should be off. If this is the
case, turn the game off and replace the ribbon cables, one at a time, and turn the
game back on.
Start with replacing the the driver board to CPU board ribbon cable first. Chances
are good the CPU board will still boot with this cable connected. Next try the other
ribbon cables. If connecting the other ribbon cables stops the CPU board from
booting, chances are good the TTL chips across the top of the CPU board are the
problem (U1,U2,U3 on all WPC revisions).

#3530 33 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Here is where I would start.. this is pulled form Clay's troubleshooting steps for a Non-Booting machine...
Dead CPU Step One: Remove the Ribbon Cables.
Before you do anything, turn the game off and remove all the ribbon cables from the
CPU. This will issolate the CPU from the driver board, the dot matrix display board,
the sound board, the fliptronic board (if your game has one), and any other
connecting boards. The ribbon cables are at connectors J201, J202, J211, and J204
(on some games). While you're at it, you might as well remove the switch
connectors at J205 to J209, and J212. The only connector still attached is J210 (the
power connector).
After everything is removed but connector J210, turn the game on. If the CPU board
boots correctly, the lower LED (+5 volts) should be on, the middle LED (diagnostics)
should be blinking continually, and the top LED (blanking) should be off. If this is the
case, turn the game off and replace the ribbon cables, one at a time, and turn the
game back on.
Start with replacing the the driver board to CPU board ribbon cable first. Chances
are good the CPU board will still boot with this cable connected. Next try the other
ribbon cables. If connecting the other ribbon cables stops the CPU board from
booting, chances are good the TTL chips across the top of the CPU board are the
problem (U1,U2,U3 on all WPC revisions).

With all that said it seems with all the ribbon cables plugged up, the CPU will not boot but when I unplug the ribbon to the dot matrix control board #601 it boots but will not start a game and the display is dark.

#3531 33 days ago

I think I can swap my CPU with my FT to check and see if that works.

#3532 33 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

I think I can swap my CPU with my FT to check and see if that works.

That or you can try swapping the display board with the FT to see if it boots.

#3533 33 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

That or you can try swapping the display board with the FT to see if it boots.

I tried the display board with no change. I will try the FT CPU but will have to change the chips also. I need to change just the one chip correct?

#3534 33 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

I tried the display board with no change. I will try the FT CPU but will have to change the chips also. I need to change just the one chip correct?

Yes- Game Rom.

#3535 33 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

The same part number (D-12501 / 5768-12377-00) looks like it is used in several pins. A cursory Google search suggests that besides TAF/G it is used in Earthshaker and Whirlwind.
The parts list for Dr Who suggests it has a similar board, but the part number is A-15805 / 5768-13288-00. I don't know if that is significant, but it would suggest that it is slightly different in some way, or is otherwise a revised design.

You are right mate ! I honestly thought they are the same but there is a difference see pic..
Lucky I have both to compare .

IMG_20200122_221943955 (resized).jpg
#3536 32 days ago

Switched to the gold roms on my game
To see how it is different. So far the fonts are different, added call outs that are a little hard to understand and a few more added dmd items for cousin it’s items. There are two thing I don’t like, as I boot up the game, it warns of the coin door being open and displays disables high powered coils, My game doesn’t have have that switch.so that statement is on till you play a game. The other is a buy in. My jackbot has a buy in switch, apparently so does the gold edition Addams family games. If I hit either the flippers or start button, it cancels out the buy in. Kind of a bummer but oh well. We will see. May go back to my original rom which was rev 4 or something. We will see.

#3537 32 days ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Switched to the gold roms on my game
To see how it is different. So far the fonts are different, added call outs that are a little hard to understand and a few more added dmd items for cousin it’s items. There are two thing I don’t like, as I boot up the game, it warns of the coin door being open and displays disables high powered coils, My game doesn’t have have that switch.so that statement is on till you play a game. The other is a buy in. My jackbot has a buy in switch, apparently so does the gold edition Addams family games. If I hit either the flippers or start button, it cancels out the buy in. Kind of a bummer but oh well. We will see. May go back to my original rom which was rev 4 or something. We will see.

Yes they are side effects. The but in can be disabled in settings. i have done that and has been great without for years. I like the gold IT extras, but they may be able to be disabled. Don't think you can do much about the coin door and coil warning as they Gold’s were wires that way. Just know they are hot on yours with door open!

#3538 31 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

If connecting the other ribbon cables stops the CPU board from
booting, chances are good the TTL chips across the top of the CPU board are the
problem (U1,U2,U3 on all WPC revisions).

Is there a guide on testing these with a DMM?

#3539 31 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Is there a guide on testing these with a DMM?

Did you swap out the MPU from your FT? If so, are you getting the same results?

Rob

#3540 31 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Did you swap out the MPU from your FT? If so, are you getting the same results?
Rob

yes I did and I also took the boards and put them in FT and with the same results.

#3541 31 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

yes I did and I also took the boards and put them in FT and with the same results.

Not sure I follow...

So you pulled the MPU out of the FT, replaced ONLY the game rom, and put it in TAF with everything connected and still won't boot correct?

Then you put what "boards" from TAF into your FT to cause it to not boot? What happens when you only put the MPU from TAF into the FT after installing the FT rom on it?

Rob

#3542 30 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Not sure I follow...
So you pulled the MPU out of the FT, replaced ONLY the game rom, and put it in TAF with everything connected and still won't boot correct?
Then you put what "boards" from TAF into your FT to cause it to not boot? What happens when you only put the MPU from TAF into the FT after installing the FT rom on it?
Rob

I took the dmd board from TAF and put it in FT and all was good. Then I swapped game ROMs and installed TAF CPU in FT and it gave me the same issues I had when they were in TAF. Swapped everything back and FT works again. One of the legs on TAF game ROM broke putting it back in so I ordered a new one and I will have it this week. I was hopping I could somehow check U1,U2 and u3 in the meantime. Is there a better way to go about this? I am all ears.

#3543 30 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

I took the dmd board from TAF and put it in FT and all was good. Then I swapped game ROMs and installed TAF CPU in FT and it gave me the same issues I had when they were in TAF. Swapped everything back and FT works again. One of the legs on TAF game ROM broke putting it back in so I ordered a new one and I will have it this week. I was hopping I could somehow check U1,U2 and u3 in the meantime. Is there a better way to go about this? I am all ears.

So when you removed the TAF MPU and swapped just the game from from the FT to the TAF MPU and put it in the FT.. dead game.

Were you ever able to try the FT MPU with just the TAF game rom in the TAF to see if it would boot or did your ROM break before you were able to test that?

The other easy things you can try in the meantime are:

Take the TAF MPU and install the FT game rom. Also swap over the large 6809 U4 chip from the FT and test in the FT. Next try swapping U8 ram chip and test. Last, if you have the proper tool to remove the large ASIC chip at U9 and re-seat it.. I would try that.

#3544 30 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

. I was hopping I could somehow check U1,U2 and u3 in the meantime. Is there a better way to go about this? I am all ears.

The answer to this question, (unless someone else has a better response), is you would need a logic probe to test these.

#3545 30 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

I took the dmd board from TAF and put it in FT and all was good. Then I swapped game ROMs and installed TAF CPU in FT and it gave me the same issues I had when they were in TAF. Swapped everything back and FT works again. One of the legs on TAF game ROM broke putting it back in so I ordered a new one and I will have it this week. I was hopping I could somehow check U1,U2 and u3 in the meantime. Is there a better way to go about this? I am all ears.

Quoted from robgo777:

The answer to this question, (unless someone else has a better response), is you would need a logic probe to test these.

Maybe its time to check the voltage at the power box. The first part of any restoration IMO, is to replace the termistor and varistor in power box. They are old in 99% of all machines, old originals. Many problems with the dmd board and display come from low current at those 2 safety features in power box.
Image is from pinwiki.

800px-WPCPowerBoxInside (resized).jpg
#3546 30 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Maybe its time to check the voltage at the power box. The first part of any restoration IMO, is to replace the termistor and varistor in power box. They are old in 99% of all machines, old originals. Many problems with the dmd board and display come from low current at those 2 safety features in power box.
Image is from pinwiki.[quoted image]

First I've heard of these being an issue (from age). Which values are you replacing them with? ...I'll order some from gpe

#3547 30 days ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Were you ever able to try the FT MPU with just the TAF game rom in the TAF to see if it would boot or did your ROM break before you were able to test that?

Yes the leg broke when I removed it so I did not have the chance to try the FT board in TAF. The new ROM came in the mail today so I will try the FT board in TAF in the morning.

When I put the FT rom in TAF board it acted just like it did in TAF non working.

#3548 30 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Maybe its time to check the voltage at the power box. The first part of any restoration IMO, is to replace the termistor and varistor in power box. They are old in 99% of all machines, old originals. Many problems with the dmd board and display come from low current at those 2 safety features in power box.
Image is from pinwiki.[quoted image]

I had a problem a year or so ago and I changed them and that took care of that.

#3549 30 days ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Yes the leg broke when I removed it so I did not have the chance to try the FT board in TAF. The new ROM came in the mail today so I will try the FT board in TAF in the morning.
When I put the FT rom in TAF board it acted just like it did in TAF non working.

That means the other TAF game ROM isn't the culprit.

Did you try swapping U4 and U8 and re-seating U9 to see if you can get it to boot in the FT?

#3550 30 days ago

My best score yet.

82CB50C0-2701-4BF6-BF3D-AB51CB5FE2AB (resized).jpeg
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