I would imagine both versions are the same in this regard. Look at the lamp matrix in the manual.

This is correct, they did not come lit from the factory.

I know it can be added, some have done it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-light-on-extra-ball-button

After 30 years we finally own our own AFV!! Been in a private collection for almost 29 years. Still needs some TLC but works great.

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"Welcome Honored Guests"
Welcome to pinside too!

Edit: Nevermind, slow on the uptake.

I read about the LCD OCD boards on this thread, did the research and bit the bullet. Now my TAF lightshow feels like it should. Pricey bit of kit but I would say it is in the top 3 mods to do, maybe even number 1. If you think your LEDs are a bit harsh or things don't look right give this board a go - you won't be disappointed.

In my opinion every game upgraded to LED's should have this level of control.
They are inexpensive for what they do.

Did you get both boards?

Jeff

Any stop sign or tombstone mods out for Addams?

Addams Family in the current lineup of Keg N Coin!

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They're typically model train items.

Unfortunately no.
I had to go through comet to get the board as the supplier here in Australia didn’t have any. That being said the GI board doesn’t seem to be stocked by anybody except LEDOCD themselves (who don’t ship OS).
If someone can prove me wrong I’d be a happy man. I have the ultra bright comet sunlight bulbs and being able to tweak them would be awesome.

Hi all guys, here a video of my TAF!
thanks

Hello...maybe a dumb question, but what is the difference (if any) between an International version of TAF and Production game? Based on serial numbers format

The game is the same.

The voltages are different and the power box should be missing the service outlet. The main fuse is 5amps by code in europe.

All easily reversed if the game is reimported. The main fuse is 8 amps in the USA.

Got both of the OCD boards in my TAFG and now I fully appreciate what they do and their value.... . Blew a few of the little 2A fuses trying to get the flashers in the backglass to work correctly but I think I got it now...

Jeff

Would i be stupid trading my Addams Gold #924 for a POTC CE? Even trade.

Sounds like a fare trade.

Only time will tell the tale if that game actually holds/ increases in value. IMHO TAFG are a status symbol more than anything. You can literally make a standard TAF (minus engraved plate) look and play like a TAFG. So if that plate means that much to you then dont do it
I'd make damn sure that doesnt have the infamous mirco crap clear coat though. If it does I'd make the seller file a claim and get a new pf.

Yeah trade it.
I've had a couple, I'm over it.

Went back to the maker station to redo this wagon mod.

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J67ab
There's just something about the angle of this mod I dont like. If you're able to 3d print, I think what would look fantastic is a flat sign with the edges having a protruding frame to be painted purple, the inner frame wood looking like the chair with the word thing cut out and a diffuser shield glued on back. Then doubling up the colors (stacking ontop of each other) so the sign becomes equally lit. If you think you could print one I'd gladly pay ya. Hit me up if youd like me to supply a rough draft of what I'm talking about.

Btw, life has taken me away from making an aftermarket thing lamp board. I was able to find one overseas that was missing the cable and considering I already had a .100 and .156 punch down tool on hand I was able to complete my machine. I've been focusing on some "me time" actually playing my games. If/when time allows me to get back to finishing up the board I will. I have faced some challenges with the software I use not having the correct templates available for the parts. Originally I planned on using some 5050 LEDs and moving the connector all the way to the right but then on a single layer board there's not enough green space to run all the traces so then you end up with a multi layer board once again driving up prices. Lets face it, people aren't willing to pay a whole lot for em so keeping it cheap, somewhat original and supplied as a kit that you'd assemble is probably the way to go to keep the price down. Maybe even offer assembled if someone is willing to pay me for my time. Also, this way those who have a color display can solder the header wires instead of having to desolder the header first.

That’s too bad. I was looking forward to ordering one from you. I may have to take a stab at the project.

I’m just good with markers and the print function, true the angle is slightly low, I think though a small strip on the edge of the ramp and plastic lamp piece and I could change the angle of the wagon just enough. I’m actually happy as is though over the stock look, but that’s me.

I (still) have a problem with a "wobbly" bookcase, basically the large blue plastic base gets loose over time. It seems like screw #38 (inside the bookcase) gets unscrewed/loose after X number of bookcase-turns (a couple hundred or so, its not immediately) so the whole plastic wobbles when a ball passes over.

The manual states the screw is a "MS 8-32 x 5/8 P-PH-S-Ny". As a non-american the last half is really confusing to me, please break down what "P-PH-S-Ny" means in detail? PH is for Philips head?

What I'm interested in most of all is if the screw is supposed to have a "built in" spacer with notches that is supposed to lock it down or not. The manual (pdf from ipdb) is really grainy and I can't tell if its supposed to have a spacer or not, and if so, what type (flat or notched).

Use loctite in the Screw tread

Blue loctite, or any blue thread locker. Permatex etc.

8-32x5/8" Philip's pan-head stainless with loctite.

Honest opinions/ideas welcome. I've been wanting to come up with a decorative mod for the thing ramp lights. I do like what the wagon represents so I took a still shot of the scene where thing is pulling his wagon, then used some tools to cleanup/delete everything around the wagon and lastly enhanced the colors a tad.
The more I look at this the more I'm not sure if this really fits the overall theme of the pin? All artwork is "cartoony" and this is real life (so to speak).
If I go through with this, I plan on printing this on wet slide material (so the background will be clear) and sticking it to a 3" x 2.5" piece of plex, and then the current piece of plex that holds the bulbs - bending the extra portion protruding in front of the lights down. And then using that flat piece of the piex to mount the new artwork plex to with rivets. Hope that makes sense. Added benefit it'll stabilize the lights and stop em from ever falling out or losing connection

I dunno - how do you guys feel about this? yay or nay?

thingwagon (resized).PNG

Once you zoom way out, it looks fine. I prefer it to the wagon posted above. One of the cool things about pinball is the uniquie mods we make for ourselves. Go for it!

Thanks. I also like it better than the toy wagon. I'm still in the process of cleaning the image up, but I stopped due to not being sure if this will look right. Keep in mind you're also viewing at at a much lower resolution than what would actually be printed at. It'll definently look cleaner.
I also wonder if the actual wagon could be 3D (or should I day 2D?) printed and then painted.
Other opinions / ideas welcome!

Has anyone checked out these ramps?

ebay.com link: 0

They need new flaps, flasher sockets, decals but I'm surprised some haven't moved yet.

There were 12 available, then 11, now 12 so I wonder if one was bought then returned.

I can as with the missing parts the cost is very close to a new comple ramp. Also if I would purchase a new ramp I would rather purchase a clear style that is thicker than the original one. New ramps are around $130.

These look like repros that are thicker than originals. I'm liking the tinted vs clear. With you on the all in cost though.

Does anyone have a nice original pricing card they would sell? Mine was missing when I purchased the machine and I prefer an original over a reprint. Any of the WPC style cards would probably be fine.

So excited to say after many years of thinking about it I jumped at the opportunity to add #Addams to my home. Which on December 13th, will be an Adams Family home in its own right. I can’t wait to get deeper into everything I have to learn as a first time owner.

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"Welcome Honored Guest"

Currently stripping down my playfield for a deep cleaning/restore. Hope it‘ll be worth it!

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Just curious as I hope I didn't miss it in the thread from my searching but do any of you have any sort of protector on the "Thing hole"? (not sure how to describe it but the place where the ball sits for Thing to pick it up) I don't see a Cliffy for it and mine is showing a very small amount of wear around the hole from general use which seems to be common. Anything I should think about doing there?

Thanks,
Jeff

Great question and I'd like confirmation on my thoughts as to why there's not a Cliffy.
Most of the time when I shoot the thing ramp the ball gets super slowed down. At first I thought the switch was gummed up and replaced it and that didn't allow the ball to get to the cup any quicker. I would assume this is normal behaviour and if so adding a cliffy would potentially add a "lip" that the ball wouldnt be able to get over therefore being stuck.

Excited to finally join the club! Found a local machine in terrific shape. Playfield tear down for cleaning / metal polishing and rebuilt with a color dmd, comet leds, titan rubber, new bookshelf, electric chair and thing kicker scoops. Trim is a beautiful antique gold.

Next up will be a ocd led board.

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I do like the antique gold!

First time I've seen a reimported TAFG. Very cool CONGRATS!

I have a backboard decal for sale.

From what I gather, these are pretty rare.

$35 and will ship anywhere in Canada or US.

PM if interested.
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As my game had some paint wear in the orbit loop near the thing hole I just added a strip of adhesive mylar around that whole area, including tightly around the hole. This was after I had cleaned and repainted the wear as best as I could ofc.

The mylar should protect that area from future wear.

80% of them were reimports... #1-799..