(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

6 years ago



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#3251 5 months ago
Quoted from Brootull:

I can't seem to get the image to scale correctly. Anyone have some tips?[quoted image]

Likely scale to fit setting in advanced printer settings. If its enabled then disable. If it's disabled enable it. One of the two should work.

#3252 5 months ago

Thought I'd share and pass the savings on to my fellow TAF enthusiasts. I'm notoriously cheap and I absolutely cringe at the prices "some" people are charging for some of the mods. I realize they need to make money but .............

The vault mod typically goes for ~$50. Did you know this is just a 1/24 scale pencil sharpener?
This can be had for under $7 shipped amazon.com link »
Buy yourself a $5 role of outdoor double sided tape to anchor it down
amazon.com link »
You see the lighted vault selling for almost $200? Just wow. Drill a hole in the rear of the vault, put in place a #44 pinch light socket held in place by a generous amount of gorilla glue. Solder on a couple alligator clips and attach to the vault light. Total cost ~$20

The knight mod "I think" is really cool but is it ~$45-$55 cool? No.
Is it $24.95 cool? YES! https://www.coinoppartsetc.com/product/parts-sale-pinball-machine-parts/addams-family-pinball-machine-game-modification-silver
USe some of that awesome double sided outdoor tape you purchased earlier to anchor it down.

Candlestick phone mod - typically $~40-$50.
How about typically under $7? amazon.com link »
Don't like the bronze hit it with a light dusting of black rattle can.

I DO want the fester mod ... not the plastic model I see being offered (that breaks quite often from what I've read) but the rubber one. If anyone has a line on one for less than the $80-$120 mark I would love know where from otherwise I'm going to have to bite the bullet.

Added 165 days ago:

The bear rug mod -typically ~ $60 PLUS dollars.
How about $15 do it yourselfer?!
It is actually Playmobil Bearskin (Dark) Rug Bear Skin. For whatever reason they are found over in the UK on eBay. Playmobil itself out of stock. You need to paint the bear white and paint the nose, eyes and ears black.
For another ~$5.00 you add the EL Wire mod for the eyes - drill holes and run wire.

#3253 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Thought I'd share and pass the savings on to my fellow TAF enthusiasts. I'm notoriously cheap and I absolutely cringe at the prices "some" people are charging for some of the mods. I realize they need to make money but .............
The vault mod typically goes for ~$50. Did you know this is just a 1/24 scale pencil sharpener?
This can be had for under $7 shipped amazon.com link »
Buy yourself a $5 role of outdoor double sided tape to anchor it down
amazon.com link »
You see the lighted vault selling for almost $200? Just wow. Drill a hole in the rear of the vault, put in place a #44 pinch light socket held in place by a generous amount of gorilla glue. Solder on a couple alligator clips and attach to the vault light. Total cost ~$20
The knight mod "I think" is really cool but is it ~$45-$55 cool? No.
Is it $24.95 cool? YES! https://www.coinoppartsetc.com/product/parts-sale-pinball-machine-parts/addams-family-pinball-machine-game-modification-silver
USe some of that awesome double sided outdoor tape you purchased earlier to anchor it down.
Candlestick phone mod - typically $~40-$50.
How about typically under $7? amazon.com link »
Don't like the bronze hit it with a light dusting of black rattle can.
I DO want the fester mod ... not the plastic model I see being offered (that breaks quite often from what I've read) but the rubber one. If anyone has a line on one for less than the $80-$120 mark I would love know where from otherwise I'm going to have to bite the bullet.

That’s what I saw too - the knight, phone, train and vault are all die cast pencil sharpeners. eBay all day. I also got a grandfather clock, but ended up sticking with the knight in that spot.

#3254 5 months ago

Decided to install the Tilt graphics bookcase decals today. Not impressed honestly. I had to run around the whole thing with an exacto blade. The bookcase decal itself is terrible on several levels. I'll spare the details but I am going to email them my grievances and suggestions on how to make it better.
Glad I had crank arms on hand. Wowser they were just brittle.
Also annoying me was the bookcase was not level. I installed 2 shims. Looked like I was good to go. Nope. As soon as I started to tighten down the white nut the whole assembly tilted forward making the front low and the back high. Unreal. Loosen the nut everything's level. Luckily I had a flat of 1/16" aluminum which was EXACTLY what I needed. Made a shim, added the shim, tightened it down and now it's perfect. It took 2 factory shims stacked on the left and one shim on the bottom to make this dumb thing level.
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#3255 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

There was a guy ~7 years ago who was patching ROMS for LED use but good old Wayne-o and his ego sent the guy a cease and desist and that was that. You might be able to post on https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/rec.games.pinball and ask if someone will email it to you.
Anyway, about using LED's - they look like garbage (that patch won't fix that). I don't care if you use ghost busters or not, they are sharp and unnatural. The GIOCD and OCDLED boards are designed to use non ghosting bulbs which are cheaper and they smooth out the lights so they act like incandescent bulbs. And for the record they are IMHO mandatory for some games like Funhouse to keep certain light dimming features.

Stop Talking shit good old wayne sold the license almost 10 years ago, I think you mean Planetary Pinball

#3256 5 months ago

Does anyone know where I can get a ball guide that goes underneath the upper right flipper? Marco has it listed as unavailable, can't find it anywhere else. I am almost done with a playfield swap, and my game had a guide wire there instead. Don't really want to make any new holes.

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#3257 5 months ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

Stop Talking shit good old wayne sold the license almost 10 years ago, I think you mean Planetary Pinball

Actually it happened while Wayne still held the IP license. Here's a snickers bar

Quoted from kermit24:

Does anyone know where I can get a ball guide that goes underneath the upper right flipper? Marco has it listed as unavailable, can't find it anywhere else. I am almost done with a playfield swap, and my game had a guide wire there instead. Don't really want to make any new holes.[quoted image]

Call Marco and ask then when/if they expect a new shipment. If they arent getting them anymore you'll need to fab your own. I believe some where in this monstrous thread someone shot pictures and measurements. Have a local metal fab shop make you one.

#3258 5 months ago

Got a couple pictures from a friend that is at the pin museum in pigeon forge TN. While looking at the pictures i noticed a ramp protector that protects the corner of the ramp. Is this something that was factory installed or is this a after market part. What im getting at is that i want one if anybody knows where to get one
7843 (resized).jpeg

#3259 5 months ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Got a couple pictures from a friend that is at the pin museum in pigeon forge TN. While looking at the pictures i noticed a ramp protector that protects the corner of the ramp. Is this something that was factory installed or is this a after market part. What im getting at is that i want one if anybody knows where to get one
[quoted image]

No idea who made that. You could ask Cliffy to make one... he'd do it I'm sure. Honestly, I feel like these old ramps are brittle and not worth sinking money into. The new ones from starship fantasy are thicker and probably wont benefit from a protector anyway. I'd venture a guess that the brunt of the majority of the shots is taken by the ramp entrance protectors thus slowing the ball down and removing most of the inertia hitting that area anyway.

#3260 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

No idea who made that. You could ask Cliffy to make one... he'd do it I'm sure. Honestly, I feel like these old ramps

I prefer the smoked ramp rather than the clear one. If this will save the ramps i have then its worrh it to me. Ive been looking for a nos smoked ramp for a while but have come up empty handed on the search. This will give me some more time to keep looking. I'll contact cliffy and see if they can make one. Thanks

#3261 5 months ago

Cliffy dose not make the ramp peotector i refered to in previous post but i was told that
(Denis W at pinball universe colorado) has made these in the past. Anybody have a contact for him or knows if they are still in business. Thanks for any info you can provide.

#3262 5 months ago

I found a link to this protector but not sure if they have or are even in business still. Email has been sent to them and will keep posting here if anybody is maybe looking for this.

http://www.pinballuniverse.com/addamramp2.htm

#3264 5 months ago

For anyone trying to find the blue rubber pad that goes on the library and doesn't want to pay for shipping from Australia.
I used two of these without removing the adhesive cover as I am trying to avoid getting any glue on the mech. Have a few dozen games on it so far and they are still in place!

https://www.pinballlife.com/1-square-blue-rubber-pad-with-adhesive-backing.html

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#3265 5 months ago

The blue pad used on Monopoly fits nice if you double up the pad. Marco has it.

#3266 5 months ago

Need some advice.
I went through and rebuilt all the flippers. I mean EVERY part of these are new minus the actual mount. EOS are adjusted properly and I also installed new flipper leafs (also adjusted properly). It seems I'm getting random weak/short flips on both sides. Is this type of behavior indicative of the fliptronics board?

Also, thing is not returning the ball sometimes. I've pulled the metal box and there's no dent/s. Now here's the really weird part. I can hear the coil try to kick. Usually will attempt two kicks and then I have to lift the playfield to and jar it to get the ball to feed. I kind of feel like there's something else going on here. It's obviously making it to the coil switch. Is it possible the ball is somehow getting kicked back into the box or?

#3267 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Need some advice.
I went through and rebuilt all the flippers. I mean EVERY part of these are new minus the actual mount. EOS are adjusted properly and I also installed new flipper leafs (also adjusted properly). It seems I'm getting random weak/short flips on both sides. Is this type of behavior indicative of the fliptronics board?
Also, thing is not returning the ball sometimes. I've pulled the metal box and there's no dent/s. Now here's the really weird part. I can hear the coil try to kick. Usually will attempt two kicks and then I have to lift the playfield to and jar it to get the ball to feed. I kind of feel like there's something else going on here. It's obviously making it to the coil switch. Is it possible the ball is somehow getting kicked back into the box or?

Sounds like a low power scenario.

Either wall power is low or something is not up to par on the power section.

Faulty cap or bad bridge?

Maybe a bad thermistor or varistor in the power box, maybe a bad 30 year old line filter?

Check the wall voltage first.

#3268 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sounds like a low power scenario.
Either wall power is low or something is not up to par on the power section.
Faulty cap or bad bridge?
Maybe a bad thermistor or varistor in the power box, maybe a bad 30 year old line filter?
Check the wall voltage first.

Thanks I'll look into those things.

Speaking of THING, I've looked at so many pictures and found the THING flipper is adjusted differently. Some have it at rest against the guide rail while others have the rubbered flipper gapped from the rail. I currently have mine resting on the rail and more often than not when not using the flipper the ball will hit a ball guide and bounce to the outlane. The guides aren't bent and the table is level. Leads me to believe gapping is how it was meant to be. Confirm please.

#3269 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Thanks I'll look into those things.
Speaking of THING, I've looked at so many pictures and found the THING flipper is adjusted differently. Some have it at rest against the guide rail while others have the rubbered flipper gapped from the rail. I currently have mine resting on the rail and more often than not when not using the flipper the ball will hit a ball guide and bounce to the outlane. The guides aren't bent and the table is level. Leads me to believe gapping is how it was meant to be. Confirm please.

Following the rail but even with it, not touching it.

#3270 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Following the rail but even with it, not touching it.

Thank you sir!

#3271 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Thanks I'll look into those things.
Speaking of THING, I've looked at so many pictures and found the THING flipper is adjusted differently. Some have it at rest against the guide rail while others have the rubbered flipper gapped from the rail. I currently have mine resting on the rail and more often than not when not using the flipper the ball will hit a ball guide and bounce to the outlane. The guides aren't bent and the table is level. Leads me to believe gapping is how it was meant to be. Confirm please.

When I bought my restored TAF the Thing flipper was gapped slightly away from the rail. I thought it was wrong but the other two flippers are aligned perfectly and the restorer's attention to detail makes me think it wouldn't have been an oversight.

When not using the flipper the ball consistently goes down the 2 bear kicks lane, which works nicely.

I'm tempted to re-align it but I don't want my TAF ending up like this one:

https://www.twitch.tv/theukpinballclub/clip/NaiveSuaveVampireCopyThis

#3272 5 months ago

Just picked up a TAFG and could use some advice on how to best install the pin blades I have for the game? I also have the felt strips that go down the side of the play field but looking at the setup, it looks like I need to fully remove the play field. Am I wrong or is there a tip/trick?

Thanks,
Jeff

#3273 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Just picked up a TAFG and could use some advice on how to best install the pin blades I have for the game? I also have the felt strips that go down the side of the play field but looking at the setup, it looks like I need to fully remove the play field. Am I wrong or is there a tip/trick?
Thanks,
Jeff

Removing the playfield is the best way, but you can still fo it.

There's a few vids on youtube you can watch.

#3274 5 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

When I bought my restored TAF the Thing flipper was gapped slightly away from the rail. I thought it was wrong but the other two flippers are aligned perfectly and the restorer's attention to detail makes me think it wouldn't have been an oversight.
When not using the flipper the ball consistently goes down the 2 bear kicks lane, which works nicely.
I'm tempted to re-align it but I don't want my TAF ending up like this one:
https://www.twitch.tv/theukpinballclub/clip/NaiveSuaveVampireCopyThis

That is EXACTLY what mine was doing. Aligning with the gap solved the problem.

#3275 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Just picked up a TAFG and could use some advice on how to best install the pin blades I have for the game? I also have the felt strips that go down the side of the play field but looking at the setup, it looks like I need to fully remove the play field. Am I wrong or is there a tip/trick?
Thanks,
Jeff

The most feasible way to do the decals while the pf is installed is the wet method. Personally I hate using the wet method for graphics but for this setup it does make sense to do so. Take off the protective backing and shoot the hell out of it with Windex. This allows you to slide and re position the artwork around until you get it where you want it. Once applied then using a paper towel/cloth add some pressure to the decal and attempt to squeeze dry the decal.

#3276 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

The most feasible way to do the decals while the pf is installed is the wet method. Personally I hate using the wet method for graphics but for this setup it does make sense to do so. Take off the protective backing and shoot the hell out of it with Windex. This allows you to slide and re position the artwork around until you get it where you want it. Once applied then using a paper towel/cloth add some pressure to the decal and attempt to squeeze dry the decal.

Yes, all of the above but use rapid tac application fluid.

Windex dries out the glue a bit.

Rapid tac activates the glue for a better bond.

It keeps the edges from curling off down the road better.

Its actually worth the expense in my opinion.

That and the rapid tac adhesive remover. Cant live without them now after using them.

I've actually bought the rapid tac prep too.

It's a great wax and silicone remover that's non toxic.

#3277 5 months ago

Got around to testing voltages today. The wall outlet voltage is good. Checked 3 prong plug and that's in good shape as well.
TP1 (+12v unregulated): 14.3
TP2 (+5v): 4.93 (surprised I'm not experiencing resets need to investigate that one of these days)
TP3 (+12v regulated): 12.03

I did take a business card and go between all the new contacts for flipper leafs and EOS's and also reseated all cables/connectors. I haven't had any weird flipper stuff happening since but I swear the lower right hand flipper is weaker than the rest. As previously stated everything is brand new on these flippers. EOS is adjusted correctly as well. After doing some research I see it mentioned a few times that the LM338 chip can cause flipper weakness. At this point I'm starting to look that way. Thoughts?

#3278 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Got around to testing voltages today. The wall outlet voltage is good. Checked 3 prong plug and that's in good shape as well.
TP1 (+12v unregulated): 14.3
TP2 (+5v): 4.93 (surprised I'm not experiencing resets need to investigate that one of these days)
TP3 (+12v regulated): 12.03
I did take a business card and go between all the new contacts for flipper leafs and EOS's and also reseated all cables/connectors. I haven't had any weird flipper stuff happening since but I swear the lower right hand flipper is weaker than the rest. As previously stated everything is brand new on these flippers. EOS is adjusted correctly as well. After doing some research I see it mentioned a few times that the LM338 chip can cause flipper weakness. At this point I'm starting to look that way. Thoughts?

Bad/dirty coil sleeve.
Slight mushrooming in the plunger causing a slight stickiness.

Weak return spring causing flipper bounce, resulting in weak responsiveness.

Sticky cabinet button causing slow response etc..

#3279 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Bad/dirty coil sleeve.
Slight mushrooming in the plunger causing a slight stickiness.
Weak return spring causing flipper bounce, resulting in weak responsiveness.
Sticky cabinet button causing slow response etc..

Hi and thank you for your assistance. Everything on your list (including buttons and cabinet leaf switches are 100% brand new.
I should also mention the plunger and/or link is not binding. The flipper also has a small amount of up/down movement (all flipper bats are brand new as well.

This has just got to be board related but where/what?

#3280 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Hi and thank you for your assistance. Everything on your list (including buttons and cabinet leaf switches are 100% brand new.
I should also mention the plunger and/or link is not binding. The flipper also has a small amount of up/down movement (all flipper bats are brand new as well.
This has just got to be board related but where/what?

So you have fliptronics 1

Since you have flipper leaf switches.

If everything is new, I'd look for a connectivity issue.

Switch gap?
Loose contact on leaf?
Anemic contact in the harness?

Weirdness in the fliptronics board?

Lm339 or ba10339 chips go bad.

They are known to cause weakness.

Even corroded fuse holders cause intermittant weakness, though rare.

#3281 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

So you have fliptronics 1
Since you have flipper leaf switches.
If everything is new, I'd look for a connectivity issue.
Switch gap?
Loose contact on leaf?
Anemic contact in the harness?
Weirdness in the fliptronics board?
Lm339 or ba10339 chips go bad.
They are known to cause weakness.
Even corroded fuse holders cause intermittant weakness, though rare.

Leafs switches are new, adjusted and the connector is soldered solid. I'll check for any corrosion though. I should mention the flipper was weak before the rebuild as well. I think I'll order a rotten dog fliptronics board. If it doesnt fix it itll be good to have a spare on hand anyway.

#3282 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Leafs switches are new, adjusted and the connector is soldered solid. I'll check for any corrosion though. I should mention the flipper was weak before the rebuild as well. I think I'll order a rotten dog fliptronics board. If it doesnt fix it itll be good to have a spare on hand anyway.

Good call.
I replaced my IJ fliptronics board with a rottondog and it made a big difference.

It also had a weak left flipper issue.

Snappier?
Better design?

Fairly inexpensive.

All I know is that it works really good.

#3283 5 months ago

Okay so in the process of swapping out for all LEDs and I'm looking for someone to explain to me why I'd want to invest in an OCDLED and OCDGI board set? I don't see anything "wrong" with the LEDs at this point? Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Jeff

#3284 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Okay so in the process of swapping out for all LEDs and I'm looking for someone to explain to me why I'd want to invest in an OCDLED and OCDGI board set? I don't see anything "wrong" with the LEDs at this point? Am I missing something?
Thanks,
Jeff

Don't your GI LEDs flicker during Seance mode? I think the GI OCD would be the only thing (if anything) you need, if you want all the modes to function with the lighting effects as intended.

#3285 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Okay so in the process of swapping out for all LEDs and I'm looking for someone to explain to me why I'd want to invest in an OCDLED and OCDGI board set? I don't see anything "wrong" with the LEDs at this point? Am I missing something?
Thanks,
Jeff

Hi Jeff. I am a FIRM believer in using BOTH these boards. I'll admit I am very anal, however the WHOLE point of these boards is:
1.) to mitigate/eliminate the sharpness that is inherit of the LED bulb. They'll act like incandescents instead.
2.) Remove led ghosting
3.) Allow the game lighting to act normal in certain games. Example funhouse lights dim during a certain mode. Without this board they're on full blast.
4.) Ability to custom program an individual bulb

I just bought a TAF with LEDs. I freaking hate it. Just a super sharp on/off seizure inducing mess. All my other machines use the LED boards and they are awesome to play. I will absolutely be installing boards into this one as well. Herg is the man!

#3286 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Hi Jeff. I am a FIRM believer in using BOTH these boards. I'll admit I am very anal, however the WHOLE point of these boards is:
1.) to mitigate/eliminate the sharpness that is inherit of the LED bulb. They'll act like incandescents instead.
2.) Remove led ghosting
3.) Allow the game lighting to act normal in certain games. Example funhouse lights dim during a certain mode. Without this board they're on full blast.
4.) Ability to custom program an individual bulb
I just bought a TAF with LEDs. I freaking hate it. Just a super sharp on/off seizure inducing mess. All my other machines use the LED boards and they are awesome to play. I will absolutely be installing boards into this one as well. Herg is the man!

Interesting... Would it be possible for you to somehow make a before/after video? I've seen some for other games but nothing for Addams unless I've simply missed it...

Thanks,
Jeff

#3287 5 months ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Don't your GI LEDs flicker during Seance mode? I think the GI OCD would be the only thing (if anything) you need, if you want all the modes to function with the lighting effects as intended.

Haven't noticed anything specific so I'll try to pay more attention next time I'm in Seance mode.

Jeff

#3288 5 months ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Don't your GI LEDs flicker during Seance mode? I think the GI OCD would be the only thing (if anything) you need, if you want all the modes to function with the lighting effects as intended.

GREAT CALL! My gawd is that mode just seizure inducing with LEDs. I literally cringe when that mode comes up. I

Quoted from jeffro01:

Interesting... Would it be possible for you to somehow make a before/after video? I've seen some for other games but nothing for Addams unless I've simply missed it...
Thanks,
Jeff

Basically any video of a machine running before and after will give you the full picture.
Title is more or less irrelevant. Again, I dont have these boards on my TAF "yet" and dont much feel like jockeying the boards between pins The best way to describe the difference it makes is takes an LEDs on/off nature and turns it into on/fade to off.

#3289 5 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

GREAT CALL! My gawd is that mode just seizure inducing with LEDs. I literally cringe when that mode comes up. I

Basically any video of a machine running before and after will give you the full picture.
Title is more or less irrelevant. Again, I dont have these boards on my TAF "yet" and dont much feel like jockeying the boards between pins

No worries at all. I've seen some video's but for whatever reason my eyes don't seem to notice a difference so I'll keep looking...

Jeff

#3290 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

No worries at all. I've seen some video's but for whatever reason my eyes don't seem to notice a difference so I'll keep looking...
Jeff

Leds flash on and off too hard and fast for a lot of titles.

Slowing down to a gentler fade works really well.

Some people like the harsh electric activity.

Others, who have played many games with incandescent bulbs find it distracting and annoying.

LEDOCD gives you control over LED behavior.

You can dial your LED's in perfectly with it.

Every game that has been upgraded to LED's should have it.

When a new game comes out today, the lighting effects are totally managed.

This management on older titles can really only be done with LEDOCD kit.

#3291 5 months ago

Here is my TAF with GI and LED OCD. Not the best video I'm afraid, but gives you a sense of what it does. It basically makes LEDs work like incandescent bulbs, or like the bulbs in newer machines.

(sorry for the vertical video)

#3292 5 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Here is my TAF with GI and LED OCD. Not the best video I'm afraid, but gives you a sense of what it does. It basically makes LEDs work like incandescent bulbs, or like the bulbs in newer machines.

(sorry for the vertical video)

THANK YOU!!!!

Thanks,
Jeff

#3293 5 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Every game that has been upgraded to LED's should have it.

Perhaps, but for $150 a machine none of my games are getting it.

#3294 5 months ago
Quoted from radium:

Perhaps, but for $150 a machine none of my games are getting it.

This never fails to amuse me.
Folks will pay $200, $300 for a mod - a plastic toy that blocks gameplay or artwork, and may or may not light up - and have a game where the GI either dosen't dim or flickers when dimmed, and inserts that have a cold hard "on/off" cycle.

I mean, to each his own. I'm one of the guys that would pay $150 and have the LEDs be stealthy.

(For any operators out there, this is also proof that LEDding a game can hurt profits, too - when out in California a few years back, a nice arcade near my hotel had some mid-2000's Sterns. They were in fantastic condition! Clean, fast-playing. But they had LEDs installed. The gameroom was dimmed - dark, and while I don't remember the specific game, it had some fast on/off lightshows - the brightness dropping to almost blackness was too much. Couldn't see the ball, and took away from the fun of playing. I did not continue my game, I didn't play the game again. It wasn't a fun experience.)

#3295 5 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

This never fails to amuse me.
Folks will pay $200, $300 for a mod - a plastic toy that blocks gameplay or artwork, and may or may not light up - and have a game where the GI either dosen't dim or flickers when dimmed, and inserts that have a cold hard "on/off" cycle.
I mean, to each his own. I'm one of the guys that would pay $150 and have the LEDs be stealthy.
(For any operators out there, this is also proof that LEDding a game can hurt profits, too - when out in California a few years back, a nice arcade near my hotel had some mid-2000's Sterns. They were in fantastic condition! Clean, fast-playing. But they had LEDs installed. The gameroom was dimmed - dark, and while I don't remember the specific game, it had some fast on/off lightshows - the brightness dropping to almost blackness was too much. Couldn't see the ball, and took away from the fun of playing. I did not continue my game, I didn't play the game again. It wasn't a fun experience.)

I’ve never spent $1 on a mod. I have lots of project machines so I’d always throw $150 at a ramp or something before I’d buy the LEDOCD. Plus I really only use LEDs for inserts and backbox.

#3296 5 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Here is my TAF with GI and LED OCD. Not the best video I'm afraid, but gives you a sense of what it does. It basically makes LEDs work like incandescent bulbs, or like the bulbs in newer machines.

(sorry for the vertical video)

Great video! Thanks for doing that. People really dont understand just how crappy LEDs look and act without Hergs boards.

#3297 5 months ago

Does anyone know the correct locations for the blinking bulbs in the backbox?

#3298 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks,
Jeff

I just ordered an LED OCD for my TAFG (didn't order the GI board). I'll be sure to take some before and after videos in the next few weeks.

#3299 5 months ago
Quoted from jp1985:

I just ordered an LED OCD for my TAFG (didn't order the GI board). I'll be sure to take some before and after videos in the next few weeks.

Any reason why you didn't get the GI board as well?

Thanks,
Jeff

#3300 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Any reason why you didn't get the GI board as well?
Thanks,
Jeff

I want to give the one board a try and see how I like it. I may order the GI in the future.

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