It's called ghosting. I have the same issue happening on a TAF I just got in. I'm curious what rom version you're running? For the record every machine I've put LEDs in I've installed GIOCD and LEDOCD boards. I suspect this one will also get them.

You will need Non ghosting LEDs to stop this. Sounds like the previous owner put in normal LEDs.

We prefer these ones in natural white for all our 90s BWs.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/faceted-non-ghosting?_pos=4&_sid=75ae96c63&_ss=r

Can you post up a photo of the LEDs?

Can't you also install a non-ghosting ROM instead?

I am not sure about that, we have never tried it. Maybe one of the other Pinsiders can help out with that question.

There was a guy ~7 years ago who was patching ROMS for LED use but good old Wayne-o and his ego sent the guy a cease and desist and that was that. You might be able to post on https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/rec.games.pinball and ask if someone will email it to you.

Anyway, about using LED's - they look like garbage (that patch won't fix that). I don't care if you use ghost busters or not, they are sharp and unnatural. The GIOCD and OCDLED boards are designed to use non ghosting bulbs which are cheaper and they smooth out the lights so they act like incandescent bulbs. And for the record they are IMHO mandatory for some games like Funhouse to keep certain light dimming features.

Another shameless bump for a Thing Lamp board - c'mon guys someone has to have one they want to sell?!

I could modify your board if you want.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-the-addams-family-club-tafmembers-fans-welcome/page/61#post-5039379

I installed both boards in my TAF and it looks great.

Per the LED OCD website, you don't need to use non-ghosting bulbs: "Standard LEDs will give the OCD board more direct control over the LEDs, but you can still use non-ghosting bulbs with some minor restrictions."

I used all Comet bulbs, 5050 Frosted for the inserts and 2SMD Frosted for the GI. Personally, I've moved to Sunlight as my GI choice and have been really happy.

Reason I asked was because there is a program that applies the updated light subroutine to existing ROMs. I used the software myself to update my ROM for Funhouse so I could use LEDs with it. I think I did this because non-ghosting LEDs didn't help with Funhouse, but it's been a while.

Edit: found it in another pinside thread. Zip file near the bottom.

http://www.edcheung.com/album/album07/Pinball/

I'll take a look when I get home. Can't recall the version atm.

I'll try to grab a few pictures tonight when I get home.

I dont have the board, that's the problem.

There are plenty of good people on Pinside that will come up with plenty of different lighting options for your TAF.

Pretty sure they are not anti ghosting.

It is revision L-3. Should I be looking at another revision? Not just for the ghosting issue but in general?

45E611FE-3D17-4290-BF17-0A0C4E5ACC8F (resized).jpeg

Well,apparently no one wants to sell a thing lamp board so I decided I'm going to make my own.
Used a freeware program called dip trace. I designed with the intentions of allowing the board to sit flat against the speaker mount with no light bleed (and since LED's don't get all that hot) and will use original mounting holes. I've got a few emails out now to see how much getting the PCB is going to cost.
thing1 (resized).PNGthing2 (resized).PNG

I’m interested in one if you plan to sell a few.

The only way you're going to get a OEM Thing light board is if someone is breaking a TAF for parts, and given they go for silly money in pretty much any condition this isn't ever likely to happen, no offence.

What you're doing is the only practical way of getting one, and it'll likely end up better than the stock one anyway.

CLEllison - Not trying to be negative, but you won't be able to do that board for under $40 - which you can already buy that solution here: http://pin-mods.com/product/taf-thing-light-board/ [EDIT - Didn't notice they were out of stock - but may be worth an email to see if they have parts]

Additionally - if you do move forward you'll need to "remote mount" the connection in order to keep the board as low profile as possible if you want to use it with ColorDMD. See the picture from the link. Another solution would be to make the board longer and have the connection come out the end by the right speaker, which is closer to where it gets plugged in.

Nice.
Switch to a couple SMDs per letter, and then check out MacroFab that can do the assembly and all with it.

I'll have to double check but IIRC I did originally attempt to go with SMD but diptrace didnt have an option for it. I'll have to revisit that tonight. Not that it's a big deal but I also noticed I used Diode instead of resistor. I was so focused on recreating the board... lol so I changed that an rearranged a few of the traces. Still a WIP.
Im pretty anal so once I'm sure I've got the right stuff I very well make up a few more and offer for sale. Price unknown.... which will be the deciding factor.

Hey fellas, I searched the topic and came up empty. Can I get a nudge please...

The Thing in my game grabs the ball and takes it into its box, and then the ball falls off the hand, but doesn't make it to the subway and I have to lift the playfield for the ball to roll the area where it finds the subway, what do I need to look for to fix the issue?

May need to adjust the hand if it does not pick up the ball and hold it firmly. Magnet should be centered on the ball.

Is the thing box "ball dented" so that the ball doesn't roll out?

Also there is a ledge in play between the box and subway that causes some problems

It seems like the hand holds the ball fine, in the sequence where Thing puts the ball back after grabbing it works just fine

I’ll check those things tonight

Thank you guys

The beauty of it is, if I sell em it will be a build it yourself kit. Want to use COLORDMD? Great! Don't install the header on the board and direct solder the wires into the board.

There is! If not, you can easily make your own. I've used DipTrace for MANY years, and have made my own MPU-200 replacement using that. (With SMD components.) If you need help with anything, send a PM. be glad to help teach.

I do not think that is a non ghost bulb. If you can get a non ghost bulb and try it you will see the difference straight away.

There are a few different versions of game roms. A switched on Pinsider a few years ago made a version that helped with ghosing issues. I am not sure if it worked or not. If you are not confident changing the game rom do not do it. I have bent legs a few times putting them in and taking them out.

Good luck!

I had a similar issue with a light mod for the TZ- basically a scoop light just like yours I'm sure. When I would first turn the machine on, it immediately lit up and always stayed on even though it was supposed to only light when the shot was lit...anyway the bottom line is the diode was installed incorrectly as it came pre wired with a molex connector. This caused issues on the lamp matrix which caused all kinds of ghosting on other lamps in the matrix. Once found and corrected...all those issues went away...

New ColorDMD LCD displays can mount side-by-side with the original THING lamp board. There's no longer a need to modify or replace the lamp board.

The display will stick up higher above the speaker panel but is hidden by the translite and speaker panel. You'll just need to lower the speaker panel before opening/closing the backbox door.

Mine did the same thing. The large metal box was dented near the opening where the ball needs to roll out. I tried bondo etc... but occasionally have the problem. You might be best to try to hammer out the dent or replace the box depending on how bad it is.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14703

This is what I've done. It is a tight fit mind, and the DMD casts a shadow on the translite, and as you say you have to drop the speaker panel to get access to the boards, but it's no big deal really.

I have been searching for one as well. Previous owner (or earlier) installs a ColorDMD and tosses the lite board, huh?! Everything that I remove goes in a bag and into the coin box.

That said, keep me posted on your progress.

I like this idea of a long board with the pin header off to the one side. Few people would want to cut their harness and direct solder to the PCB. With a longer board and right-side located header, provides a direct replacement and ColorDMD friendly without having to move up the display.

If you folks think there's a market for a thing board with a relocated header I can do that.
What I've found is that it's more expensive than what I was hoping for/expecting. Probably looking at ~$110 shipped. Does that dissuade anyone? Being cheap, after spending $400 for a new display I personally wouldn't feel inclined to dump another $100.

I think it's a $35-$45 item.

There's got to be a short run manufacturer that can do it cheaply.

Everyone please be patient I hope to have a working model in hand for testing within a couple weeks. I

Have you personally made any boards before? I would be interested in your cheaper sources
; ) The "cheaper" sources are in China and have a minimum order of 5. Again, price at this point is pure speculation and I refuse to order more than one as an engineering sample.
You also need to consider the size (likely going to be 15" ) adding cost to both product and shipping. Not to mention having to make a cable. If there's no interest that's fine, but my time is also worth something.
PERSPECTIVE:
If a person is willing to spend $120 on a fester mod I would think spending less on something that also lights up would make sense too lol

A hundred extra bucks on a pin will not break me. Let me know

My daughter and I installed my color dmd not long ago in just a matter of minutes with no shadow or crowding. Dropping the speaker panel is no big deal after removing 1 lamp to get to boards

If you look at my ACNC Tower of Torture thread. I hand sculpted the piece, created a silicone rubber mold (x2 as I destroyed the first one), cast them in a quality resin, hand paint them, arrange packing/shipping and have them listed for $120 (+shipping). I've had people already tell me that they don't want to spend that much.

I can literally work a few hours instead and come out ahead. It is crazy

my future son in law uses this place...says the boards are very reasonable...jlcpcb.com and easyeda.com to design the boards...

Thank you, will look into it.

Hi guys,

I am new to the club with my project Addams

Searching for a pic of the bookcase opto board --> which wires (colors) where to solder? I found this pic, but I can not identify all color-wires.

Do you guys have a better pic of this area?

thanks a lot
Chris

tafopto (resized).jpg

I found a picture, but turned out you have one of mine already so it won't help! I did find this other picture if it helps when I did my PF. The other one is more recent swap.

IMG_2881 (resized).jpg

IMG_5002 (resized).JPG

thanks @dmacy, but I need the wiring for theblue opto board (located on the bottom of the bookcase, see pic)

cheers
Chris

taf_opto_set (resized).jpg

There's one picture here but not the best: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/question-on-taf-bookcase-wiring-mod#post-1417748

Not perfect but see if this helps.9A1D6362-F608-4915-8450-3C3FEDC583BA (resized).jpeg

Hey Chriz

E1 Org/Brown
E2 Org/Red
E3 Org/Blk
E4 Org/Yel
C Gray/Yel

Wally

I can't seem to get the image to scale correctly. Anyone have some tips?

Thing Decals (resized).jpg