Quoted from kermit24:I had a hard time finding any apron decals for sale. Found one set in the USA.
It's not transparent but it also isn't completely "filled".
(Topic ID: 78709)
Linked Games
Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994-
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Topic Gallery
Noosa
Hi Guys,
I'd really like to install an LED strip at the rear of the playfield to help with the very poor factory GI back there. On other games I have stuck LED strips above the playfield on the underside of the rear of the cabinet and then run the wires down over the back of the playfield to connect to the GI.
My problem is that TAF doesn't have the slide hinges and the backboard of the playfield is flush with the cabinet when in the normal position so I can't run the wires over the back the playfield.
Has anyone done this and how have you connected the LED strip to the GI?
I hope that all makes sense??
Augusta, GA
Woundering if the communiry can supply with some info out of the manual. Im looking for the 4 flipper coil numbers i need ro make sure i order the correct coils to replace the coils on my machine. I dont have a manual yet so these numbers will help me know what is suppose to be installed. Thanks
Quoted from codered9394:Woundering if the communiry can supply with some info out of the manual. Im looking for the 4 flipper coil numbers i need ro make sure i order the correct coils to replace the coils on my machine. I dont have a manual yet so these numbers will help me know what is suppose to be installed. Thanks
https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Manual.pdf
Quoted from harig:thing box decals:[quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome! Thanks Harig!
https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Manual.pdf
Thanks for the link. Just what i needed.
It screws into the lower plastic. I see part of the lower hole. Try to line them up. I added the post.
20190706_130820 (resized).jpg20190706_130843 (resized).jpg
Post now removed after getting wires higher.
Quoted from drummermike:It screws into the lower plastic. I see part of the lower hole. Try to line them up. I added the post.
Yup, mine is the same without the post.
Has anyone installed small bearings under the Thing box lid to prevent the inherent scraping of the top of the hand? Seems like it would be a pretty simple task, just curious of the correct location to put them. I'm thinking like a nylon bushing on each side of the center plastic held together with a nylon screw and nut? I'm sure there is something in the RC world to fit the bill.
Quoted from monkfe:Has anyone installed small bearings under the Thing box lid to prevent the inherent scraping of the top of the hand? Seems like it would be a pretty simple task, just curious of the correct location to put them. I'm thinking like a nylon bushing on each side of the center plastic held together with a nylon screw and nut? I'm sure there is something in the RC world to fit the bill.
Just add some thin adhesive backed felt to the underside of the cover.
My bookcase (the blue plastic part) gets loose after a number of plays. It seems like the rotating motion of the bookcase unscrews screw nr 38 (inside the bookcase plastic) from the shaft 34 beneath, as I get more and more "up an down slack" on the shaft that holds it all together. If I tighten screw nr 38 its all ok for a while until the problem gets back again.
Screw 38 have washers with "teeth". Could I have the wrong screw? Looked at Marcos but they didnt have the exact part number so not sure if mine is correct or not.
The lock nut 37 is firm and in position so shouldnt be an issue.
Any suggestions on how to permanently fix this issue? Its annoying to tighten the screw over and over.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:My bookcase (the blue plastic part) gets loose after a number of plays. It seems like the rotating motion of the bookcase unscrews screw nr 38 (inside the bookcase plastic) from the shaft 34 beneath, as I get more and more "up an down slack" on the shaft that holds it all together. If I tighten screw nr 38 its all ok for a while until the problem gets back again.
Screw 38 have washers with "teeth". Could I have the wrong screw? Looked at Marcos but they didnt have the exact part number so not sure if mine is correct or not.
The lock nut 37 is firm and in position so shouldnt be an issue.
Any suggestions on how to permanently fix this issue? Its annoying to tighten the screw over and over.
Screws with toothy washers are called SEMS.
nuts with toothy washers are called KEPS.
Wiener Neustadt
Quoted from harig:You can use thread locking glue to stop screws getting loose.. .
I know that loctite and similar exist but never use it in fear of stuff getting hard to disassemble in the future. Perhaps I should make an exeption in this case thought.
The screw is inside the bookcase so in case it would get stuck really hard then the whole plastic assembly will be impossible to take apart without breaking it.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I know that loctite and similar exist but never use it in fear of stuff getting hard to disassemble in the future. Perhaps I should make an exeption in this case thought.
The screw is inside the bookcase so in case it would get stuck really hard then the whole plastic assembly will be impossible to take apart without breaking it.
Use blue locktite. It comes apart really good, its for small parts.
Use purple locktite if you want even less hold power, like on 2-56 nut plates.
Never use the red its for permanent installation.
Has anyone encountered the problem that Thing drops the ball while lifting? Mine does this occasionally, looks like the magnet is too weak. Any ideas?
If it only drops it now and then it could be one of the wires leading to the coil that are broken inside due to cable movement when hand moves.
Any play in the hand assembly? Its not releasing the ball against the ball guide in front of the box?
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Maybe my experience here over time will help.
My addams has at least 27,000 plays over the years. Im only responsible for about 5000 plays. Over time the swamp and cousin it targets take a beating. Ive replaced all at least once, and several a couple more. Left and right swamp hole, they have been replaced at least twice.
I replaced the standup target with a brand new one today and it no longer bends backward when hit.
The mounting metal plate in the old target had a large crack in the metal at one of the rivets and that was apparently enough to make it bend a lot.
Quoted from oradke:Has anyone encountered the problem that Thing drops the ball while lifting? Mine does this occasionally, looks like the magnet is too weak. Any ideas?
Mine did that. I had to realign Thing. Magnet was not centered on ball.
Quoted from drummermike:Mine did that. I had to realign Thing. Magnet was not centered on ball.
Ah! That makes sense,I‘ll check.
Quoted from oradke:Has anyone encountered the problem that Thing drops the ball while lifting? Mine does this occasionally, looks like the magnet is too weak. Any ideas?
I had that issue and needed to reseat the ribbon cables in the back box.
Brugge
Quoted from Staf:what would I do, I have 2 taf's, one with original decals (with still nice decals, just a piece of the backbox in the back right corner) and one with new decals, which one would I keep?
I don't think there is any change in value for original silk screen art versus a restored cab with decals, so I would keep the nicer cab with the decals. Others may have different experience.
Quoted from monkfe:Who makes the aftermarket metal "thing" box - the one under the playfield...I've seen some on restorations that look way heavy duty compared to the flimsy original.
Are you referring to this?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14703
Quoted from CLEllison:Are you referring to this?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14703
yes that one...but hard to tell if its made any differently than the original...
My TAF was redone before it got to me, but all of the factory decals/stickers in side the game are gone. Can anyone point me to a place that shows them or snap some pictures? Thanks.
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:My TAF was redone before it got to me, but all of the factory decals/stickers in side the game are gone. Can anyone point me to a place that shows them or snap some pictures? Thanks.
Google Addams family pinball restoration. Almost assuredly to find every picture you'll ever need.
Quoted from CLEllison:Just joined the club. Other than magnet fuses.and Cliffys, is there any other bullet proofing a person should do ? I see this guy make mention of whacking a diode and no one responded. Any thoughts to that?[quoted image]
Anyone else cut out this diode as suggested?
Quoted from jj44114:Anyone else cut out this diode as suggested?
Pulled out the schematic for my TZ, I assume the board is the same, If you cut the diode d17, you would effectively shut down the left magnet all together if I'm reading this right, but the upper and right magnet use the same type circuit, just off a different header J-126. So I don't know how removing this would resolve any magnet/power transistor issue.
...ok Looked at it again, yes I see that the diode lets the coil bleed off after, but still not sure how this will save your power transistor any better than the other two magnets, but I am curious about this....
Quoted from jj44114:Anyone else cut out this diode as suggested?
It's really dumb.
Just get the replacement, fused, magnet board and be done with it.
So what do you guys think of my thing box mod... I'd like to find a slightly lighter bearing...these are more like shower door type...a little overbuilt and subsequently adds more weight to the lid. Can't fully test it out yet as my playfield is out, but went by the wear marks to position the bearings.eyeballed it (like Forest Whittaker) ...
20190726_123145 (resized).jpg20190726_161835 (resized).jpg20190726_161840 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:It's really dumb.
Just get the replacement, fused, magnet board and be done with it.
That doesn’t solve the problem of the tip36c blowing. It only shuts off the magnet.
What is everyone doing about the blue pad on the bookcase that cushions the ball hits? I cant find them with the u.s. suppliers. I was not aware that is was suppose to be there so my bookcase has paid the price. Thanks
Quoted from codered9394:What is everyone doing about the blue pad on the bookcase that cushions the ball hits? I cant find them with the u.s. suppliers. I was not aware that is was suppose to be there so my bookcase has paid the price. Thanks
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/rubber-bumper-pads-3-3-x-1-23-used-on-taf/
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/rubber-bumper-pads-3-3-x-1-23-used-on-taf/
Thanks for the info. Talked with Marco yesterday and they said they will have the pads in stock in 2 weeks if anyone else is looking.
Quoted from codered9394:What is everyone doing about the blue pad on the bookcase that cushions the ball hits? I cant find them with the u.s. suppliers. I was not aware that is was suppose to be there so my bookcase has paid the price. Thanks
speaking of which, the adhesive that comes with these seem inadequate at best, what are people using to glue these to whatever they're attached too? I used some 3m spray adhesive, seems to be holding for now...but if there is something better I'd like to know.
Bath
Quoted from Durzel:Where does the blue pad go? Any photos?
On the bookcase so when the ball hits it ,it is not striking the hard plastic.
Quoted from monkfe:speaking of which, the adhesive that comes with these seem inadequate at best, what are people using to glue these to whatever they're attached too? I used some 3m spray adhesive, seems to be holding for now...but if there is something better I'd like to know.
Contact cement.
My blue bookshelf pad doesnt use any adhesive at all, it has a snug fit vertically and is kept in place by the screws that hold the upper plastic to the bottom circle. There is a small plastic edge in front of it too that keep it from going forward.
Quoted from Durzel:Where does the blue pad go? Any photos?
tafpad (resized).PNGHow hard is that rubber suppose to be? I was thinking about using a mouse pad to make one until i got one from marco.
Beware the ebay NOS translites...
Backstory: I've had bad luck with translites, original in my machine is scratched, I bought a crappy NextGen on ebay a couple of years ago but never installed and never returned it, was then looking to buy an NOS one on ebay that was 10 miles from my house but seller wouldn't allow an inspection so passed on that one, bought another NOS off ebay but by the time it got from CA to NJ it was beat up on the ends too bad to use.
So fast forward to a week or 2 ago, saw another NOS pop up on ebay. All the right description, seller confirmed it was NOS and screen printed. Looking back, the pics were a suspect but seller had perfect feedback so I went for it. Immediately knew it was NextGen when I got it, not a bad one, had clear registration but washed out when lit. Seller said it was in with other NOS translites so he assumed it was NOS too. Utimately returned it for a refund with no issue.
Not going to out the seller here or in PM. Just want to give a heads up to those also looking for an NOS translite. If it looks to good to be true...
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