Been a part of the club for a decade but 1st time.posting about it. Put this beauty ar our comic shop location. That CPR Backglass is just gorgeous and makes it pop. If your in the Cincinnati area stop by Comics2games in Florence, KY and try it out.

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I'm working on trying to add the circular stone bookcase decal to the blue disk. I have the bookcase assembly pulled out of the game, but I can't figure out how to separate the blue disk from the arm and metal bracket underneath. Any tips?

Do you mean the plastic arms? That has a pin that needs pushed through. I actually used a screw which was what someone installed in it that seemed to work better and easier to service. If you mean the shaft from the bookcase, it can be a real bugger. Few pics if you can share what part you're needing to pull.

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Just my personal opinion, but the stock lighting looks great with the correct LEDs. I just finished my TAF restore and used the following Comet bulbs for the GI:

Twin 2835 SMD 6.3V AC/DC INTENSE BRIGHTNESS with FROSTED LENS - Frosted - #44/#47 Bayonet - Warm White

Your game looks really washed out with the Pinstadium lights. Glad you like it though since that is all that matters

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Thank you!! I am trying to get the bookcase off of that white plastic arm so I can access the underside of the bookcase disc like in your first photo. I'll see if I can locate that pin to try to get it. It looks like you installed a decal too, any tips? Thank you for the photos!

$266 shipped I believe with discount code from Buffalo pinball.

Anyone have the Dual tone CPR backglass in their TAFG?

Would really like to see what it looks like before I buy one

Just added the mirror glass to one of my taf. Looks awesome

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Installed the cpr mirrored glass in one of the addams family. The other has a translite

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Comet Matrix spotlight rig...

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Thank you for sharing! How does it look when Cousin It is lit?

Does look good, although the top left looks super dark. The translite is dark too but you can discern the windows.

+1 on seeing what Cousin IT looks like illuminated.

Could not agree more, white leds absolutely ruin this game imo. Purchased a pre made led kit for mine with had all white leds for the gi and could not get rid of them quick enough

Installed frosted warm white twin smd intense brightness from Comet and could not be happier, the blue up the back of the machine has comet white leds

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Different strokes for different folks, I personally prefer colder light, so that's what I went with...

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(Comet "Natural" white on the left, Comet "Sunlight" on the right)

Excuse the vertical video I'm using Comet 2 SMD frosted bulbs everywhere, except at the back where I used their Optix Maximus in Ice Blue.

You definitely don't need Pinstadium, and I'd argue - like the other guy did previously - that is just blows out all of the colours if you do. I don't play my pins in a pitch black room though, so *shrug*

I keep experimenting with the color changing options with the pinstadium lights. Nearly infinite color options. I wanted to be able to see the game completely with limited lights on in the room. Just never had it with just LEDs. It is to each his own, but yep, I’m happy. Best part is the UV flashers.

Yep.
Got mine, shopped out for $1700 in the 90's.
But I still have it.
Love this game to much to ever sell it.

I paid $600 for mine back in the late 90s and still have it.

Nice.
I got a Funhouse for that same price.
Sold it though.
That is one I would get back if I could.

Any ideas where to get the yellow williams flippers including the thing flipper anymore. Marco is out and I don't see them any where else

Pinball Life has them.

Maybe put in a smaller silver one!

Dear honored guests,

I disassambled the whole playfield to do some airbrushing.
When removing assemblies from the underside i discovered 4 wood screws to be longer and thicker than the rest (#8 x 9/16" , part # should be 4608-01081-09). Those were used at the bookcase (3pcs) and 1 piece at the swamp.
After removing the whole remaining parts on the underside of the PF (switches, lamps, cables with brackets,..) I ended up with 8 more of those thicker and longer screws. Don´t recall where they came from as I used the electric drill to remove them.

Where do they go? (left side on picture)

thx!

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The left one looks like the ones for the hinges on the playfield.

I think you are absolutely right!
Thanks a lot!

That's how I see TAF also.
Picked up TAF and TZ in the same year 2007. TZ is gone and replaced with WOZ.

My TAF arrived last night and I'm working on putting together a clean LED set together with all Comet product.

Here is what I have for insert lighting so far, excluding *THING*.
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I was hoping someone has an accounting of quantity and types for the GI bulbs. I'm planning on using their 2SMD frosted line.

Thanks.

I'm having difficulties correlating 4 bulbs from the Lamp Locations on page 98(2-40) of the manual.
45 The Mamushka #44
58 Hit Cousin It #555
77 Thing Yellow #555
78 Thing Green #555

Are these on a plastic assembly that I keep overlooking?

Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Manual (dragged) 2.pdf

45 and 58 are mansion insert lights that are on that diagram (bottom right)

77 and 78 are two lights above the Thing ramp which doesn't appear to be shown on that diagram for some reason. Often these manuals had mistakes or omissions.

77 and 78 are attracted to a single plastic piece above the playfield, screwed into the plastic ramp.

Regards GI count - TAF doesn't have much GI, I'd like to say you'd get away with 15 #44 bulbs and have a few spares. There are a few #555 ones to catch you out (above Thing flipper and between telephone plastic to name but two). If you're buying from Comet I would strongly recommend some even brighter GI bulbs for the back of the playfield, under the blue plastics (all #44, except the telephone one). I went with their Quasar ones and am very happy with the results. 2SMD is a good choice though all round.

Several of my pins have had different sized screws holding <insert assembly x here> to the playfield. It seem the thinner screws are normally what should be there but when some screw holes have been enlarged they have been replaced with larger screws to keep fasten properly. Maybe this is the same for you.

Damn.. 45 & 58 were right in front of my face. So comparing diagrams, 58/45 = 51/52 and 77/78 = 1/2.

Did you get any hot spots with the brighter bulbs in the back? That's the only thing I worried about right now.

Thanks for your reply.
I think dmacy was pretty right when pointing me to the hinges

Parts - For Sale

The Addams Family~Translite-TAF-New! Free Shipping! Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “Brand spanking new, only out of shipping tube twice. Protective coating still on face. Highly detailed ridges and accents to white backing to ad to its effects. I believe its next...”

2019-09-14

Anaheim, CA

Ericpinballfan

130

Archived after: 16 days

Viewed: 363 times

Status: Not sold

$125 shipped!

I absolutely love my Addams family and have fun in almost every mod I can think of. Got a few more to go but what do you guys think. I love the led’s through the back glass

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What is going on with that translite? ☹️

He needs my new one maybe.

Thanks brother. As a friend says to me, “I wouldn’t shit you; you’re my favorite turd!”

I’ve just done a TAF and few other swaps/tear downs recently so will get some pics to compare when I can. Someone really should do a playfield swap screw breakdown for Sys11/WPC, etc. there’s a few different ones and it’s easy to get confused. I guess I’ve just volunteered myself.

Installed the ColorDMD LCD last night and did the THING lightboard mod today. It's wasn't bad at all.

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What is the Thing Light Board mod?

If you run the ColorDMD (LCD), the new display replaces the “THING” board. Even in the brightest setting, the display lights up these as segments but not bright enough (to many). You can mod the board as above to solder in LED’s and keep low profile so you can have the brighter THING lights using original board.

Love the idea and I keep saying will do this.

It was pretty easy. The hardest part was de-casing the LEDs and bending them into shape.

I've got a ColorDMD LCD in my TAF and it does not replace the Thing light board, nor does it try and simulate it in the software.

I had to fit it higher up than normal (per the instructions) which means when working on the machine the speaker panel has to be dropped in order to open the translite light panel (?), but that's it. The THING board in my TAF is unmolested.

I did that at first and while it barely fit, You could see the shadow of frame of the display when the game is on so I went the mod route.

I bought some sort of thing board couple years back. Well, its so dim and barely visible anymore its time to modify original board as seen above.

For anyone who doesn't want to solder onto your THING board, look at post #2498. You can easily make a completely new thing board with a small piece of plastic, LEDs, resistors and wire.

Yeah that is a bit of an issue granted. So does the modified THING board sit in front of the LCD?

Yes, so it is important that you don't leave anything sticking up higher than necessary, and put a good piece of tape over the modifications so they don't leave dents in the LCD screen.

Help needed please, My TAF wont boot up anymore. When I turn it on LED 19 and 21 light but it stops at that and nothing lights on the playfield. Sometimes LED 20 will flash one time like there is a rom problem but not all the time. I swapped ribbon cables with no luck and I even tried another set of roms that I believe are good with no luck. The game worked great last time it was turned off. Any help is much appreciated, thanks.

That looks horrible