I installed mine over the weekend. It looks AMAZING!! I'll try to post some pics tonight.

I feel like this is probably a rhetorical question given how awkward it is to remove the telephone plastic, but how would one remove the clear plastic at the far right at the back of the machine, behind the Thing box? I can't see how it would be possible to get any size screwdriver back there, even though there are cutouts in the plastic to reach the screws (like the telephone plastic).

Surely I don't have to remove the playfield to get to this?

Thanks in advance

I removed mine altogether, and replaced it with the pencil sharpener phone (with LED). Looks WAY better. The phone plastic is riveted to the corner plastic, but it was easy to drill out. You just need a long skinny Phillips head screwdriver to get into the slots to remove the corner plastic.

Thanks. I think we're thinking of different bits.. there is a stack of clear plastics right at the back of the machine behind the Thing box. The stack of 3 plastics that the upright phone one is riveted to (with a blue one on the top) is a different set. That one can be removed with a long thin screwdriver as you suggest (although it is a massive pain).

cornerplastic (resized).jpg

You can lift the playfield off the pivots and slide it a bit more forward to get some extra room to work. The pivot point would rest directly on the playfield wood. Just don’t pull it too far forward.

For those that bought the new mirrored backglass, can you share a picture of Cousin It lit up?

Ok, so it's not the very back corner piece, but it's still in the corner generally. You can remove the plastic with phone is riveted to with a long skinny Phillips head. That's what the slots are for.

Again, not the blue plastic that the phone plastic is riveted to... I mean the one right at the back right of the playfield, circled in red in my image above. It's not attached to the blue plastic stack that is on the side of the playfield.

Strange thing... I’m suspecting a Connector!!!

I’ve been diving in for a few hours a night for a week... measured all voltages, traced wires, tested coils, tested transistors, reflowed solder on many connections that looked great, nothing....

Then today, I plugged everything back in I had taken apart last night, tested the center lug on the coil and it fires! Started a game and all is working again, I’m going to replace the factory power connectors with tirfurcon pins, that’ll fix it!

Thanks to you guys for pointing me in the right direction

Can anyone tell me what purpose this metal post serves? I've seen it on some Addams, but on the ones its fitted on there is nothing attached to it. Is it purely there to stop a stray airball from potentially rolling behind the Thing box?

strange-post (resized).jpg

It would appear so.

Oh sorry. I used a right-angle Phillips head to get to that. You could also use a Phillips bit with a socket to fit the base of it.

Put a bug on it, one of the random ones from the plastics set.

Cheers. I don't have the post in mine, which is why I was curious as to its purpose.

Does anyone know if the universal switch slot protector protects the outlane where the ball drops off the ramp? It looks like it would drop before the switch and miss the Cliffy entirely?

Anyone have one fitted and can comment?

So... anyone else still rocking the P-2 ROM?

Question.. when thing picks up the ball for quick multiball or thing multiball the machine somehow forgets where the ball is. It works fine for the greed multiball .. has anyone else had this issue. Is it a software problem??

It is to block balls from getting up there near the thing box. Extremely rare for that to happen so I did not reinstall it when I did my restore.

The ball will hit the top of the switch slot about 25% of the time. If your drop point is still flat and in good condition (no paint missing), I recommend a mylar that covers the main drop point and extends down the switch - cut it in the middle so it's stuck to the playfield on either side of the switch slot, but not covering the switch slot itself.

Thanks a lot. I have a full playfield protector that has been on the (new) playfield, but I'm thinking of cutting it out. Wanted to make sure the obvious areas were protected first. Everything else has Cliffys on it, only the switch slot hasn't as it isn't currently needed.

If anyone is...I can help them upgrade!

There is ball kicker in the box under thing that puts the ball in to the subway. Maybe an issue with the switch that detects the ball there.

Once the ball reaches the end of the subway, it is held there until it is feed to the swamp scoop by another kicker, so check the switch for that kicker too.

K will do. Like i said it only does it with quick multiball or thing multiball. The other greed multiball is fine. But will try it

I have not seen a kicker in the thing box. It seemed to me like Thing drops the ball, the ball rolls out of the box and then likely kicked over with a coil but the ball actually leaves the Thing box, or so I thought. I did have issues with the ball sometimes getting stuck in a divot, in the box, (large enough denting) where Thing drops the ball at the bottom of the box. I will have to order another box as my temp fix has been just ok to date.

Hammer the dent out.
The box is thin metal and easily hammered back into shape.

Lightly tap on the dent over a block of wood until its flat again.

To be clear the kicker is to the right of the box, looking underneath the playfield. It's not inside the Thing box. In normal operation it receives a ball that has rolled out of the Thing box and kicks it down a subway to the swamp.

Bah! Now color dmd is doing black and white and random dots. Anyone know what might be wrong ?

I pulled all the cables and reseated everything

6F3C177B-2D2D-4F5C-BD91-5F5C538FD145 (resized).jpeg73448191-7B53-4038-ADB0-CED8689C40B5 (resized).jpeg

Does the game reset and cycle like normal?
Is the game randomly resetting?

Check voltage to DMD see what power it is getting

The game functions normally, I will check voltages later today

Reseat ribbon cable too (both ends)

Make sure you reseat the cable in the color DMD itself as well.

Thanks guys! It was the pesky large ribbon cable, may be time to fix or replace it

I'm getting pretty consistent airballs when the ball comes back down the Bear ramp (after not making it around) when it hits the flipper at the same time as it is flipped, as is instinctive to do.

It's hit the glass once and also hit the Fester figurine on the chair too, which wasn't cheap.

The pin is at 6.5 degrees according to PinGuy so I don't know what else I can do besides telling people not to flip at the same time as the ball coming back down. Any other suggestions? Is there any kind of angle adjustment on the flipper?

If you have LED's you can get more flipper power.

Adjust EOS switch to open earlier. Low power will kick in sooner.

Change to weaker flipper coils or put it on a variac and turn the power down.

AC Voltage Regulator，20 Amp Variac Variable Transformer, 2000va Max, 0~130 V Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KM13B2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hw1TCbMXTVNJY

Working on an addams with no GI or backbox lighting. J115 wires have been replaced and soldered to the boards. All fuses good. Odd thing is in GI test some if it works.. any ideas?

I'm in the club

Cab is pretty worn and the PF got some wear but everything seem to work as it should. It's already led's, cliffy's and a rottendog fliptronics card in it. Oh, previous owner also swapped to a new clear ramp plastic

Already ordered overlays for the PF (mansion and magnets above), new apron stickers, star posts, rubbers and some other stuff. Will also add the magnet fuse kit to be on the safe side. Currently going through the whole game cleaning and polishing everything; It will be great when fixed.

I have to do something about that abomination of a coin door; the ugly metal brackets have to go but I don't want holes left so I am considering getting a brand new door.

TAF (resized).jpg

I think marco has parts for coin doors along with new ones.

Welcome Honored Guests!

I have to do something about that abomination of a coin door; the ugly metal brackets have to go but I don't want holes left so I am considering getting a brand new door.
[quoted image]

here is a couple that had the plates like yours . filler in holes and a squirt of paint . cheap AND good

IMG_0767 (resized).JPG

IMG_0768 (resized).JPG

here is a couple that had the plates like yours . filler in holes and a squirt of paint . cheap AND good

Looks great, holes are very hard to see. What type of filler are we talking about, QuickWood or something else?

I'm about to apply the mansion & magnet overlays but never done that kind of work before, so what's the recommended approach?

* Should I just clean the worn PF with Novus and then apply the overlays ontop or should I first try to use QuickWood or similar to "fill" and level the worn areas to avoid potential cavities? Perhaps filling is unneccessary if the overlay is thick enough to not bend downwards ?

* Apply the overlay "dry" or use the "wet method" ? I've never done the wet method so a quick 101 would be great in that case.

* Some parts of the mansion are bare wood, if I use the wet method won't the PF absorb the fluid and swell/crack later on?

Appreciate any input on the above.

I used a"builders bog" or use any auto filler it could leave slight imprint of hole . remedy - primer

While renovating my game I checked the flipper coil markings and realize they don't all match the manual:

---------------Manual---------My game
upper right......FL-11630.........FL-11630
upper left........FL-11753.........FL-15411
lower left........FL-15411.........FL-11753
lower right......FL-15411.........no idea - wrapping paper missing

It seems like a previous owner swapped the upper left and lower left coils by mistake, or is there actually a good reason for my current coil configuration?

Also, the lower right coil is missing the paper, can I measure the resistance to find out which type it is?

Can't think of any good reasons to have swapped them around. Probably an accident.

This site should help you out.
https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

You'll probably want to swap them back. That coil would be weak for a main flipper. From Marco:

FL-11753 Yellow - Used with short flippers and close shots
FL-11722 Green - Used for close shots near drop targets
FL-11630 Red - The standard, most commonly used coil
FL-15411 Orange - Used for long playfield shots
FL-11629 Blue - Used for long shots and high ramps

Speaking of which, does anyone have 11629 for their flippers? I'm wondering if that would give the game a little extra pep, or if they would be too strong.

I've got 11630 on mine, which are also wrong (weaker than they should be). It came with them fitted by the restorer and if I hadn't read the manual I wouldn't even know they were wrong. I don't have any trouble making ramp shots, if anything I sometimes get airballs off the bear target or post sleeve to the left of the vault.

11629 would surely be overkill unless you like your games at 7.5 degrees or more.

Has anyone installed an IPB plastic set and had problems with the holes not being drilled properly in the telephone stacked plastic assembly that goes beside Thing?

It looks like all vendors have the same issue.2019-04-29_20-46-33 (resized).png

I bought this set from Planetary but Marco's set shows the same flaw. It wouldn't be a problem if the two clear plastics in the stack were drilled the same way but they are not.

The set I got from planetary looks like the top one in your pic. The two holes are a little too close together. The clears line up fine. The issue was the metal bracket that holds the telephone plastic partially covers the hole for the spacer and didn’t leave enough room to insert the screw through the spacer tabs. Rather than enlarge the hole, I snipped off the tabs on the spacer. Line up fine after that.