Damn the luck, my ball release, chair kickout, ramp diverter, outhole, thing magnet and lockup kickout went unresponsive in the middle of a game, solenoid test confirmed the above checked the fuse at 103 and it’s good, connector at J130 looks good , switches were good as well. Noticed that the Hand wasn’t picking up the ball before it happened. Any ideas? Also a newbie

Good to hear about yours lining up, mine was off, way off.
Agree on the double protector, the mantis came with the pin and preferred to put it back in, in front of the new Cliffy. Why not? Like two condoms... less sensitive but it's twice the insurance.

Wait... maybe the sensitivity part is irrelevant here.

Marco has the sticker: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1673-1

Is this the ramp you need as well? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15150

Jason

Looks like per the wiring diagram you need to check fuse location 105. Those all go through connector J130 to J107 at pin 3 (Violet-Yellow) then through the High Power fuse F105. Should be a 3 amp slow blow fuse per the manual.

Thank you I’ll give that a try tonight.

or straight from Mantis:
https://mantispinball.com/product-category/addams-family/

Help me out folks,
My inserts on the mansion seem to be out of order or i am nuts . I did a PF swap and now this , but maybe im wrong .
On first ball either mamushka or cousin it are lit . Weird always thought it started on mamushka.
Then when mamushka is complete it jumps up to second row to 6 million. If cousin it is first mode and then completed it jumps to mamushka instead of moving left to graveyard max that doesnt seem correct .
Another thing that stood out , after completing or lighting extra ball insert the next insert it jumps to is 3 million bottom left, i thought it always jumped back to mamushka bottom right .

Please help, or tell me im crazy and its fine .

No - when awarded, the next lit mansion is always the one to the RIGHT, or up a row and back to the left. (Mamuska -> 6 Mil, Seance -> 9 Mil, Extra Ball -> 3 Mil).

Will skip over any that are already awarded, of course. (So if you have 6 Mil lit already, Mamuska will go to Quick Multiball.)

I understand that, lets assume nothing is solid lit, so say after extra ball is completed what is the next insert that should blink ?

My understanding is game starts on mamushka works left bottom row to cousin it then graveyard max then 3 million.

Is that not correct

Nope, Coyote has it right. Start of game, Cousin It is 1st mode lit (flashing). After starting that mode, Mamushka is next, then moves up to 6 mil, quick multi, etc. After extra ball it jumps back down to 3 mil and continues movement to the right. Only way to change what is lit is by hitting the pop bumpers. Each pop hit moves flashing room to the right.
At least that's how it works on factory settings without gold roms. Not sure if there are differences.

Ok , my bad . That is exactly how it is working , Thanks!
For some reason it just did not look right to my eye.

No problem. How'd the pf swap go otherwise? Have yet to tackle mine.

I had it done , above my capabilities.
Its a CPR silver and fast. Hitting the 3 way combo is ridiculous.

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Found the issue, fuse was fine... thank you for the help Jet! I appreciated the feedback!
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Just wondering, is it worth upgrading roms to gold? Mine has rev L4 And sound L1 but I’m getting a pinsound someday in the mail. I have heard plus and minus for switching to the new gold rom. My friend hates the random bonus part. Wondering what others think.

Thank you,
Jason

Glad you found it. Darn you violet and yellow wires! Quick solder repair then game on!

Jason

To each their own, but I side with your friend. Originals for me, but maybe there's a way to disable the random bonus? Besides that and a few extra callouts and animations, is there any other benefit? Improved sound?

Jason, I am looking for a ramp decal that does not come on the machine . It is after market red stair case sticker that goes on the small middle metal window ramp. I saw it on the "Directors" TAF.

Only way I'm aware is installing the standard ROMs.

I have the most recent updated standard (not GOLD) ROMs with the control over Power. No need to hold the ball and wait 15 seconds for the magnets to stop.

Worth trying these out!

Jeff,

Check eBay. Looks like it comes free with the side graphics for the ramp. $35 shipped from the UK.

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Thanks Jason

Due to age and wear and such, my plunger didn't line up well enough with the ball to get a full plunge. Sometimes it could make the loop, sometimes it could only make the skill shot, sometimes a full plunge would end up in the swamp.

So I made a thing! I modeled and printed an adapter to protect the launch and raise the ball a bit to meet the plunger. It's not perfect, but now the skill shot is a real skill shot again!
IMG_20190320_123923419 (resized).jpgIMG_20190320_123930176 (resized).jpgIMG_20190320_123954451 (resized).jpgIMG_20190320_124000767 (resized).jpg

Now that's commitment and determination!

That is neat - especially sicne I could never design anything "3D" like that.

However, I am curious - did you try adjusting your plunger? And even fully adjusted it was off that much? That's surprising..

I adjusted my plunger as much as possible, but I would have to cut into the cabinet to adjust it enough to make a difference.

That is a very cool idea with a 3d printer. Still don't see myself getting one, but my coworker got one for christmas and he has made some neat stuff for his go pro camera. Well done!

Sounds like the front playfield hangers are bent or sagging.

Or possibly the lockdown assembly is at the incorrect height?

The hangers can be bent/adjusted to gain quite a bit of height or even lowered.

Yup, my plunger is also a bit too high at the lowest setting. Last time I checked, I didn't see any new hangars available for TAF.

They don't like it, but I never thought of that. U can probably drill new holes in the apron and hang the whole thing slightly higher. Looks like there's a half inch or so of wiggle room before apron starts to interfere with play field glass.

For the most part you just bend the hangers up or down in a vice or something to get things to match up.

It also possible that they are the wrong ones.

There are a couple different drop lengths. Also might be stern hangers.

Measure yours and maybe get these:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11401

You can also put fender washers between the playfield and the hanger to raise it if its sagging and adjust the upper holes/slots in the hanger for the apron with a dremel if needed.

Maybe these:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11401

That's fair! Just surprised. I don't think I ever seen that before!

Wrong hangers makes sense. This TAF is a Frankenstein of parts from TAF and a TAFG. Could be other random parts in here too.

These are the same dimensions as the originals and are in stainless steel:

https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-playfield-hanger-short/

Those are really nice!

Mantis makes the short and long versions. Measure to be sure.

The short are the ones that match TAF.

IMG_1635 (resized).jpg

Those are what I got. Something's just out of whack. I removed the overly complicated fix and printed 1/2" spacers to raise the pf on the hanger. Works great, although I can't screw the apron into the hanger now and the apron is practically touching the glass, which looks a little unusual.

IMG_20190325_204113657 (resized).jpg

What are the dimensions of your hangers? The length?

Can you post a pic of the front edge of you game where the lockdown receiver is?

If you have the short hangers, something is wrong, or you have the wrong hangers.

2-1/4".

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Had anyone ordered the new mirrored cpr backglass?

I’m needing a new translight but might just go with the new backglass. Just wanted to get someone’s opinion on the colors/darkness of the print before I decide

That looks right.

So, if the lockbar receiver isn't 1/2" lower than the front edge of the cabinet, then the plunger cut-out must have been reworked.

It should be level with the edge.

I have seen a couple games that someone lowered the lockdown receiver due to stripped out mounting screws. Easy to fix with toothpicks or bamboo skewers and glue.

Your spacers seem to do the trick though, just need to drill out holes for the apron screws.

Being close to the glass isn't a problem as long as it doesn't scrape the glass.

Hmm. I wonder if the lockdown receiver is too high now.

It should be level with the cabinet front panel top edge.

But if it is too high or low then the correct lock bar would not engage the hooks. Unless it's the wrong one or reworked.

Or even possibly the wrong receiver and lockdown bar as a set, from a different game as a repair.

Hi, my lower left flipper stopped working (upper left flipper still working)...

pulled the fuse on the driver board (was a 4 amp) and replaced with 3 amp, the flipper activated once and stopped working. Pulled the fuse again and tested with DMM ok, put fuse back in.

Checked the action of the flipper, recently rebuilt and action ok

Checked the eos switch (new) and action good

Checked the button stacked switches, looks good

Went to switch test, switch test good on both left flippers

What do I go check now?

Thanks TAF club.

Checked for voltage at F101 on the driver board? How does the connector look on the flipper board? Check it for cracked header pins? J802 pins 9 and 8, also I would try a continuity test from those point to the coil.

I’ll dive in and report back, thank you

Might be bad tip 36 and predriver transistor on fliptronics flipper board

My TAF has P-2 game and L-1 sound ROMs. Never thought about the P-2 until I was entering my latest high score and the Pinside form wouldn't take the P-2.

Pinside and Google searches didn't turn up much about P-2. IPDB has it in the ROM list though.

Anyone know more info?