(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

5 years ago



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  • 375 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by TicTacSeth
  • Topic is favorited by 229 Pinsiders

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There are 3253 posts in this topic. You are on page 55 of 66.
#2701 6 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Is it possible to have the callouts etc with the standard rule behaviour?
I thought something was wrong with my TAF when getting a chair shot would award like three different windows sometimes.

The mode you unlock with the chair shot is changed by sending the ball into the pop bumbers. Watch the bottom playfield modes when the ball is bouncing around the pops. It changes with each hit.

#2702 6 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

I'm new to the club! Got it home today. It's a little more of a project than I expected, but nothing I can't deal with I don't think.
I wonder about a could of things... In the following pictures, is it normal for the one Target to be flat vs the round ones around it? Or is this a hack?
Also, it's been a while, but I thought the bookcase was blue. Is orange normal?[quoted image][quoted image]

The three targets should be oblong, round, oblong. 3 round do not have enough space between. Gold edition plastics are gold.

#2703 6 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Awesome thanks! A couple follow-up questions.
ROMs! It seems people don't prefer the gold roms that this machine has installed. There are a lot of versions, what version do people best?
Also, this board has been added, does anyone know what it's for? It looks like it runs to the audio board and to the topper.[quoted image]

Could be an anti-pop relay to eliminate the start and end pop sounds?

#2704 6 months ago

Either hack, sound vs lights, or pop sounds, is weird hack. Why people? :p

This thing is turning out to be quite a basket case. I can fix it all at this point in life, I have the parts and know enough. But wow, so many things to do on it. :p

#2705 6 months ago

The yellow bulb keeps falling out of my chair, anyone have a solution?

#2706 6 months ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

The yellow bulb keeps falling out of my chair, anyone have a solution?

bend the wires straight out. cut small slice of black electrical tape. wrap tape around the base and put wires back in place. Works for me on TZ and LAH. Tried to pinch the sockets but the tape solution is better. My bulbs have not come out since I did the tape! A wrap or two should be good.

#2707 6 months ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

The yellow bulb keeps falling out of my chair, anyone have a solution?

Shrink tube cut to fit also works very well and has a clean look

#2708 6 months ago
Quoted from jake35:

I joined this past week.. little late but heres a few pics. Addams Gold edition #949. Locally owned since new, home use documented with all paperwork and original matching boards.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice!
I'm in Fredericksburg. Is it stopping here or passing through?

#2709 6 months ago

Here's a video of my fully restored addams. Still have some stickers to install but very happy with it. Plays fast..

-2
#2710 6 months ago

Installed the 3D maker thing wagon today! Pretty cool!

3BF61BD8-CC6C-4CB5-8379-8EE5E2B74A5F (resized).jpegDF2E0078-18EA-47EA-BA1A-51DA4DD98F44 (resized).jpeg
#2711 6 months ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Nice!
I'm in Fredericksburg. Is it stopping here or passing through?

Wow small world. I was passing through on my way to TN!

#2712 6 months ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Installed the 3D maker thing wagon today! Pretty cool!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Oh my.

#2714 6 months ago

Has anyone bought the full "Tour the Mansion" package of light mods from leesparts ?

I recently bought this (paid a lot in UK Customs duty & VAT ) and noticed that most of the mods talk about screwing to the bottom of the playfield with the lights shining through a very thin gap in the scoops. I'm reluctant to screw new holes in the bottom of my playfield if the effect of the mods is going to be minimal due to the small gap that they can shine through.

Also several of them require you to screw them into the playfield in really cramped places. I'm anxious that if I don't get the positioning spot on then I'm not going to see any benefit from them at all.

Just thought I'd ask if anyone has actually bought the whole "Tour the Mansion" package from them, and if so if they can provide any photos of their install.

Thanks in advance

#2715 6 months ago

I just got an Addams Family that already had the chair and vault from lee’s. I just added the swamp kickout and thing ramp. The scoops are very bright. the thing ramp is not as bright, but that’s because it’s not as dark in that area. I also added some led post lights at the top of the graveyard, comet matrix strip under the ramps, and a few post lights.

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#2716 6 months ago

Thanks. And yours are installed where the lights are shining through the thin gap in the scoop? If you have time I'd love to see some photos of the installs on the underside of the playfield, so I can work out what I'm doing.

(I have instructions with each mod but would like to confirm with photos of already installed ones)

#2717 6 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks. And yours are installed where the lights are shining through the thin gap in the scoop? If you have time I'd love to see some photos of the installs on the underside of the playfield, so I can work out what I'm doing.
(I have instructions with each mod but would like to confirm with photos of already installed ones)

I didn't get a lee's parts mods but I installed bulb holders tied into the wiring. I didn't drill any extra holes as that was a goal of mine not to add anymore holes. I used holes that were already there that held other bulb sockets ect. This required me to bend some of the bulb holders at odd angles. I can get some photos if it helps

#2718 6 months ago
Quoted from fatality83:

I didn't get a lee's parts mods but I installed bulb holders tied into the wiring. I didn't drill any extra holes as that was a goal of mine not to add anymore holes. I used holes that were already there that held other bulb sockets ect. This required me to bend some of the bulb holders at odd angles. I can get some photos if it helps

Thanks. It would be very useful. Looking at the instructions I can't see how much light would actually get into the scoop when it's shining through the slits, if that makes sense.

Would definitely be keen to see how you've done it with your custom ones.

#2719 6 months ago

It requires some part removal to see the chair, swamp, and thing ramp. Attached is a pic of the vault light that is easy to access. I think they are plenty bright.

You could order the parts and make them yourself, but these are nice because they are plug and play and connect to the correct lamps easily so the lights work with the game play.

16E2C83B-5C16-41E7-9E44-1F69BF290123 (resized).jpeg
#2720 6 months ago

Thanks. And you found the paper template easy enough to use etc? I honestly am struggling just accessing those areas in the machine with a screwdriver. They seem to be obscured with wires and difficult to reach.

#2721 6 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks. And you found the paper template easy enough to use etc? I honestly am struggling just accessing those areas in the machine with a screwdriver. They seem to be obscured with wires and difficult to reach.

The templates were ok. I pre-drilled a pilot hole with a very small bit and just made sure the hole was not very deep. I use a 6” extension on a screw driver to reach without the wires and other things getting in the way and also have a 90 degree low profile ratcheting screw/nut driver for tight spaces. And I always keep an extendable magnet pen to get screws that end up falling to a hard to reach spot. If I work for more than an hour inside the cabinet I wake up with a major back ache.

#2722 6 months ago

I just installed Judge Dread's beautiful rose shooter rod.... now the ball won't make it all the way up the ramp. Anyone else have that problem? I am guessing I need to order a stiffer spring to compensate for the heavier shooter rod, just looking for advise on what stiffness to order.

#2723 6 months ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

I just installed Judge Dread's beautiful rose shooter rod.... now the ball won't make it all the way up the ramp. Anyone else have that problem? I am guessing I need to order a stiffer spring to compensate for the heavier shooter rod, just looking for advise on what stiffness to order.

The tip of the shooter rod is probably misaligned left/right/up/down. Check that and adjust the mounting position of the shooter rod assembly.

#2724 6 months ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

I just installed Judge Dread's beautiful rose shooter rod.... now the ball won't make it all the way up the ramp. Anyone else have that problem? I am guessing I need to order a stiffer spring to compensate for the heavier shooter rod, just looking for advise on what stiffness to order.

Check the length of the new rod compared to the original.

#2725 6 months ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Sorry to contradict, but there are three “oblong” switches in the game. Two by Hit Cousin It, and one for the Bear Ramp. Two red and one blue.

Interestingly, I believe that all of the 4 Cousin IT targets are just wired together and count as a single switch. Seems to be what Stern is doing with a single wide stand-up target 'now a days'.

#2726 6 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Interestingly, I believe that all of the 4 Cousin IT targets are just wired together and count as a single switch.

They are and they do.

#2727 6 months ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Check the length of the new rod compared to the original.

Thanks fiberdude120 sometimes it is the most obvious thing, about 1/8" shorter - easy fix on the lathe.

#2728 6 months ago

ARTWORK UPDATE
The Addams Family Mansion GameBlades
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/addams-family

Screen Shot 2019-02-10 at 10.37.20 AM (resized).png
#2729 6 months ago
Quoted from jGraffix:

ARTWORK UPDATE
The Addams Family Mansion GameBlades
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/addams-family
[quoted image]

Very cool! Is there a matching sticker for the backboard and do you have pics to compare these with the stone version?

Thanks!

#2730 6 months ago

Any reasonable sources for a pre-cut book case decal? I am having a hard time stomaching paying $20-$30 for a small sticker.

#2731 6 months ago

Ok, need help. On my Addams Family, if I am playing for a while, and a reach a point in the game where the ball goes into thing hole, Thing comes, grabs the ball. I hear a clunk, and then I just loose the ball. The machine goes into a self test mode of actuating kickers and opening and closing the bookcase looking for a stuck ball. The ball never shakes free.

To resolve the problem, I open and elevate the playfield and at the right side near Thing, the design appears to indicate that there is a pan that the ball gets dropped into, the ball goes by gravity to the point closest to the player and then should go through a cut out in the sheet metal to a solenoid. I assume that solenoid is supposed to actuate and kick out the ball? Is it supposed to be retained in there and another ball is ejected?

When I do a test on the solenoids, that solenoid seems to work fine. I did notice that one time the solenoid rod did seem to stick some, but that was only one time.

So I looked for debris that could be in the channels and I did find one very old rubber bumper post lodged into the channel. I removed that, thinking that this would be the end of the issue as that was what possibly blocking the ball movement, but the ball still gets stuck in the whole damn thing.

Any ideas? Anybody had an issue on this?

#2732 6 months ago
Quoted from Patentlaw:

Any ideas? Anybody had an issue on this?

Your on the right track. Debris in thing box or subway, coil issue due to loose wire or something, or switch issue due to a loose wire or something.

You mentioned it fails after things warm up, which is typically an indication of a sticky coil sleeve. Replace the coil sleeve on the solenoid you saw sticking, and confirm it feels free.

You can also test it by taking the glass off and giving balls to thing over and over to see and hear were they are hanging with the volume down.

#2733 6 months ago

You mention "playing for a while", do you mean that normally everything works but after a while when things have gotten warm (or whatever) it stops working? Does the Thing issue happen every time?

Under normal conditions the ball should end up in the scoop to the right of the big Thing box, which fires it down the plastic subway underneath the playfield to the right hand side of the swamp, and staying locked there.

Balls don't stay in the Thing box under normal operating conditions, they stack up in the Swamp.

#2734 6 months ago

Good ideas so far. What I meant by "after a while" was that under the initial parts of the game, when you get the ball to enter the Thing "hole", there will just be a kickout and Thing does not appear and grab the ball and then deposit the ball into the pan, transferring to the solenoid.

To answer the question, it happens every time. When Thing comes out, the motorized Thing hand successfully captures the ball with the magnet and disappears behind the red door. I hear the "plunk" meaning the ball disengages from the Thing magnet and enters the pan. After that, who knows what happens. It could possibly be stuff in the transfer tubes. I guess it could also be some type of misalignment between the pan and where the ball enters the solenoid.

When I do the solenoid test, the solenoid works every time. Also, I have had an issue with the Swamp, so the kickout works from there. So storing the balls in the Swamp, I don't believe, is the issue.

#2735 6 months ago

How do you recover the ball when it's lost?

#2736 6 months ago
Quoted from Patentlaw:

I guess it could also be some type of misalignment between the pan and where the ball enters the solenoid.

This is normally the issue. The square hole in the pan, as you call it, and the square hole in the thing hand scoop have to align damn near perfectly for the ball to go from the pan to the scoop. I'd check screws and make sure things are tight and haven't gotten out of alignment.

#2737 6 months ago

On the subject of the giant Thing metal box under the playfield... I dropped a screw whilst fitting a vault scoop light mod down there and for some time believed it had somehow dropped into the box. I removed two screws at the top holding it on, and couldn't see any others, but it looks like the bottom of it is clamped to the bottom of the playfield somehow. I didn't want to force it off, so gave up. As it happened the screw was hiding away on the bottom of the cabinet.

How are you supposed to remove the Thing box? Is the hand mechanism atttached to the box, or the playfield?

#2738 6 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

How are you supposed to remove the Thing box? Is the hand mechanism atttached to the box, or the playfield?

The hand mech is attached to the playfield, not the box. There's a lip on the box that's held in place by a metal bracket fastened to the back of the playfield back board. Just remove the two screws and move the box up. You may have to use a little force.

#2739 6 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

On the subject of the giant Thing metal box under the playfield... I dropped a screw whilst fitting a vault scoop light mod down there and for some time believed it had somehow dropped into the box. I removed two screws at the top holding it on, and couldn't see any others, but it looks like the bottom of it is clamped to the bottom of the playfield somehow. I didn't want to force it off, so gave up. As it happened the screw was hiding away on the bottom of the cabinet.

The box is what you said. Two screws hold the top, and the bottom edge slides in. So you just want to pull up slowly after the screws are removed. This assumes you have the playfield all the way up. As Bryan said, the hand mech is separate.

BTW, I've done that and it sucks lol!

#2740 6 months ago

So I "recover" the ball from just down from the solenoid. There is a small opening in the channel right after the solenoid and I have a little magnet on an expandable antenna apparatus. I stick the magnet down in that opening and pull out of the ball.

I agree with the others on how to remove the "Thing Box". My unit has a white sticker that says to remove the two "top screws" and then slightly tilt the box and lift "UP" to disengage the edge of the box from the connecting channel.

#2741 6 months ago

Thanks. Mine has a sticker but the instructions on it have long since worn away.

#2742 6 months ago

Depending on the size I might add this new Cousin It to my game somehow

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#2743 6 months ago
Quoted from fatality83:

Can someone tell me really quick back behind the train wreck area there is a white colored dome like a flasher is underneath. It looks like you have to remove the ramps to get the plastic that the white dome piece is rivited onto. Do I have to remove all the ramps in order to change this flasher bulb?

Thought I'd resurrect this post from a while ago to comment on my experience after having fit some Thing ramp lights in this area.

You can lift and move the plastic that the white dome piece is riveted to enough to get to the twist-in flasher holder by removing the two nuts holding it down, and also the Thing ramp (two small screws). You can't move it particularly far, and it involves bending the plastic a bit from underneath the ramp, but I can confirm that you don't need to remove the ramp to get underneath it.

Removing the screws from the ramp entrances and lifting the ramp a little in those areas will give you a little extra room to work the plastic out from underneath the ramp, but it isn't essential so long as you are careful.

#2744 6 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thought I'd resurrect this post from a while ago to comment on my experience after having fit some Thing ramp lights in this area.
You can lift and move the plastic that the white dome piece is riveted to enough to get to the twist-in flasher holder by removing the two nuts holding it down, and also the Thing ramp (two small screws). You can't move it particularly far, and it involves bending the plastic a bit from underneath the ramp, but I can confirm that you don't need to remove the ramp to get underneath it.
Removing the screws from the ramp entrances and lifting the ramp a little in those areas will give you a little extra room to work the plastic out from underneath the ramp, but it isn't essential so long as you are careful.

Thanks, I ended up shopping the machine and removing the ramps anyway to do it and replace and led the machine but thanks for replying.

#2745 6 months ago
Quoted from Dahawk007:

Depending on the size I might add this new Cousin It to my game somehow
[quoted image]

I used Pops as my STTNG topper.

20160330_134844_001 (resized).jpg
#2746 6 months ago

Anybody getting the CPR mirrored backglass for Addams, 3 versions available.?

#2747 6 months ago

Considering it, but would like to know how complete it is. From the sounds of it you still need to buy and fit trim all around? For the price I'd like to think it would be supplied ready to install.

#2748 6 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Considering it, but would like to know how complete it is. From the sounds of it you still need to buy and fit trim all around? For the price I'd like to think it would be supplied ready to install.

Agreed, I'm curious about how well it fits.
I got an EATPM 2 years ago that was just a little to big. Pain in the ass to get in and out. Only trim i could put on was the bottom lift channel.

#2749 6 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Considering it, but would like to know how complete it is. From the sounds of it you still need to buy and fit trim all around? For the price I'd like to think it would be supplied ready to install.

"trim"?
If you're meaning the plastic parts on the original glass that hold the translight in and the liftbar? Or are you meaning something else?

#2750 6 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

"trim"?
If you're meaning the plastic parts on the original glass that hold the translight in and the liftbar? Or are you meaning something else?

Yes, we are both referring to the 4 piece plastic trim.

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