(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

5 years ago



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  • 386 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by pinballinreno
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There are 3424 posts in this topic. You are on page 53 of 69.
#2601 1 year ago

Bought some Titan glow in the dark silicone rings for my TAF, used a kit as an example. The kits on this page all seem to include 2 x 2" rings, but the manual says 4 (2 for the slingshots, and 2 to the left of the pop bumpers) - marked D below.

Additionally most of the kits on that page include 2 x 2.5" rings, which aren't listed in the manual at all, which suggests to me that either the manual is wrong (very likely knowing Williams) or that people are going with 2.5" rings on the slingshots, or the bit to the left of the pop bumpers.

Do people go for larger rings on slingshots when using silicone?

Screenshot 2018-12-11 14.51.14 (resized).png

Any help gratefully received

#2602 1 year ago

Few pics of the one I'm working on but not as clear/labeled like sciddleybop1980 His should be perfect for you to view.

IMG_2846 (resized).JPGIMG_2847 (resized).JPGIMG_2919 (resized).JPGIMG_2924 (resized).JPGIMG_2925 (resized).JPGIMG_2927 (resized).JPG
#2603 1 year ago

Thanks for all the photos! I've managed to get a small amount of progress, but I'm still perplexed as to why some of the switches don't work. I've wired up all the trough switches and the plunger ball switch, but only the left and center trough switches work... I'm in switch edge testing, I actuate some switches and nothing happens.

What could be the reason for these switches failing? All the switches and diodes are new. Could it be an IC issue? None of the target switches work (they're all new), the Thing Flips switch doesn't work (the one on the ramp), the left center lane (inlane and outlane to drain work). It seems arbitrary and I have no clue what's going on.

IMG_0471 (resized).JPG

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Note on pic 2: I've rewired the outlane according to dmacy's pictures and it still doesn't work.

#2604 1 year ago

Good morning Addams owners. As a I hope to be an owner of one of these some day, it is my grail pin, I would like to start acquiring the more common broken, missing, damaged LOW BUDGET items each time I order other parts from the various suppliers. If you could post a reply with the more frequent things you have replaced (not counting rubbers or bulbs), I would be grateful!

#2605 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Good morning Addams owners. As a I hope to be an owner of one of these some day, it is my grail pin, I would like to start acquiring the more common broken, missing, damaged LOW BUDGET items each time I order other parts from the various suppliers. If you could post a reply with the more frequent things you have replaced (not counting rubbers or bulbs), I would be grateful!

If on a budget it's best to get the game first.

Take it apart, then order all of the worn out, broken parts.

This way you dont waste money on extra parts you didnt need.

2 weeks later
#2606 11 months ago

So I have my Addams Family working 100% and want to start doing some upgrades.

The pop bumpers are rather dark and I want to upgrade them. Thinking about the Bright Caps EVO LED for the pop bumpers. Has anyone put these in their TAF? Since the Bright Caps EVO are about 5mm taller I am wondering if anyone knows if it will fit the pop bumper under the ramp?

Another option is the Comet Pinball LED ring. Wonder if anyone has used these and what your thoughts are.

Finally, I just love the plasma pop bumper caps! Look great but at $100.00 each I will not be getting those.

Any other suggestions or ideas are most welcome.

Thanks all and hope everyone had a very merry Christmas and wishing you a happy new year!

Alan

#2607 11 months ago
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#2608 11 months ago
Quoted from CharlestonSCPins:

The pop bumpers are rather dark and I want to upgrade them. Thinking about the Bright Caps EVO LED for the pop bumpers. Has anyone put these in their TAF? Since the Bright Caps EVO are about 5mm taller I am wondering if anyone knows if it will fit the pop bumper under the ramp?

I'm doing a repair/shop out on an Addams right now...I went the led "hats" from Comet. They look great!! Plus they have white LEDs that face into the bodies for additional light. I didnt use the UFO rings because of the ramp cut out.
20181225_202651 (resized).jpg20181225_202701 (resized).jpg

#2609 11 months ago

Anyone know if there exists a transparent or more intricate apron decal set available?

I've had various bits on my TAF powder coated, including the apron, and as a result the replacement decals I'm using (they are more like stickers, disappointingly) are too different to the apron itself...

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#2610 11 months ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

I'm doing a repair/shop out on an Addams right now...I went the led "hats" from Comet. They look great!! Plus they have white LEDs that face into the bodies for additional light. I didnt use the UFO rings because of the ramp cut out.

GLSP3022

Wow, thanks a lot I really appreciate the photos! They do look great. I saw those and they are one that I am considering but wasn't sure how they would look so the pictures were perfect!

#2611 11 months ago
Quoted from CharlestonSCPins:

Another option is the Comet Pinball LED ring. Wonder if anyone has used these and what your thoughts are.

I have these in my Twilight Zone.
They are great, but must be hot glued into the cap. if not they will jostle around and short out when the metal ring comes back up.
Trust me, I have been through 3 replacements before I took the instructions to heart and glued them in place.
Since then no issues at all and they look great. love the white light that shines down.
However I do agree with the above poster that the other kind should probably be used in Addams family because of the cut on the clear cap.

#2612 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Anyone know if there exists a transparent or more intricate apron decal set available?
I've had various bits on my TAF powder coated, including the apron, and as a result the replacement decals I'm using (they are more like stickers, disappointingly) are too different to the apron itself...

i tried both and i like this one much better, thinner and darker though i can't find them in the US anymore?
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-addams-family/3037/apron-decals-for-the-addams-family

#2613 11 months ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

i tried both and i like this one much better, thinner and darker though i can't find them in the US anymore?
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-addams-family/3037/apron-decals-for-the-addams-family

Thanks. Will look into that. Was hoping to find one on a transparent background.

#2614 11 months ago
Quoted from CharlestonSCPins:

GLSP3022
Wow, thanks a lot I really appreciate the photos! They do look great. I saw those and they are one that I am considering but wasn't sure how they would look so the pictures were perfect!

I put in the Comet rings, even in the shaved off one, sticks out slightly but I can live with it. I’ll probably end up sanding that edge straight because of OCD but it looks good.

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#2615 11 months ago
Quoted from J67ab:

I put in the Comet rings, even in the shaved off one, sticks out slightly but I can live with it. I’ll probably end up sanding that edge straight because of OCD but it looks good.

J67ab

Thanks for the pictures! I like the look a lot. I am looking at the BrightCaps EVO about the same but have more LED's in the center. Nice look with cap outlined in LED's

#2616 11 months ago

Hey so is L-5 or L-7 the best ROM version if you don’t want to go gold? I can’t find the difference?

#2617 11 months ago

Bit of a long shot but does anyone have a decent SVG of the apron decals? I've tried a couple of ones that you can buy and both of them are a poor colour match for my powder coated apron. I think I will need to get something custom made up (e.g. transparent background).

Was there ever an original SVG of them from which repros are currently being created?

Thanks in advance.

#2618 11 months ago

Looking for a the bracket that holds the plastic chair if you have one let me know. Marco says they are out of stock in them.

#2619 11 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Looking for a the bracket that holds the plastic chair if you have one let me know. Marco says they are out of stock in them.

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/metal-parts/addams-family-chair-bracket-01-10593/

#2620 11 months ago

Thanks but the one on Marco has the lights too which I need. Do you guys know who sells the bracket with lights atttached to it?

#2621 11 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Thanks but the one on Marco has the lights too which I need. Do you guys know who sells the bracket with lights atttached to it?

I’m pretty sure you can’t get them that way anymore. You’ll need to drill out the rivet and/or get new light housings. And the new housings may need some tweaking to fit like the originals.

#2622 11 months ago

Yeah like this..

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#2623 11 months ago

I redid mine with the bare bracket. it's not too hard but you need a rivet press to attached the list socket to the bracket.

#2624 11 months ago

Has anyone got a photo of the cabinet leg bolt holes on the rear?

I put some metal cabinet leg protectors on mine and when I did this I noticed that the rear legs on TAF are mounted slightly higher than the ones on my TZ. The TZ ones are flush with the bottom of the cabinet, the TAF ones are about 1.5cm off.

Because the room my pins are in is on a bit of a slant this means I have to have one of the rear levellers almost completely wound out.

This is the difference:

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Could anyone let me know where their leg bolts holes are?

#2625 11 months ago

Your TAF looks OK.

TZ is weird - it has 3 holes in the front and rear and causes some confusion. You use the lower 2 holes on the back legs and upper 2 holes on front legs on TZ to get the playfield close to the correct angle. (maybe they were planning to mount the playfield differently in that cab or were thinking of another use for it.)

#2626 11 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Your TAF looks OK.
TZ is weird - it has 3 holes in the front and rear and causes some confusion. You use the lower 2 holes on the back legs and upper 2 holes on front legs on TZ to get the playfield close to the correct angle. (maybe they were planning to mount the playfield differently in that cab or were thinking of another use for it.)

Ummm if you use the upper 2 holes in the front on tz it does not line up correctly. I own both Addams and tz. They sit side by side in my lineup using Tz on all lower holes front and back matches Addams dead on so I must disagree!

#2627 11 months ago

Had to open the coin door and check. Your right.

I guess the point of the extra holes is to lower the whole pin.

#2628 11 months ago

Thanks both. So the rear holes on my TAF don't look wrong? The fact the metal bracket isn't flush with the bottom like it is on TZ doesn't mean the holes are in the wrong place?

#2629 11 months ago

I’m in California and looking to pick up a players TAF. Anyone know of one that may be coming up for sale? I’m in Bakersfield but am willing to make the trip north or south. I can’t afford a HUO or an immaculate example. Players condition all the way to heavily routed and thrashed would be ideal for me. Thank you in advance!

#2630 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

So the rear holes on my TAF don't look wrong?

If you want to measure it, the center of the lower hole is about 52mm from the bottom of the cab on mine.

#2631 11 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

If you want to measure it, the center of the lower hole is about 52mm from the bottom of the cab on mine.

Will do, thanks.

#2632 11 months ago

Can someone tell me the best/safest way to remove the telephone plastic? I need to change the bulbs for both the GI that is under there (is it #44 or #555?) and the flasher. I am aware (I think?) that it is three layers of plastic, and from the looks of it there are two screws that I need to loosen or remove to pull it out.

From looking at photos of the underside of the playfield it looks as if the wires to the GI and flasher don't go straight through the playfield? I guess they are routed somewhere? Presumably this makes it impossible to change the bulbs from below?

#2633 11 months ago

There are 2 philips screws at the rail. The light housing is riveted on so that plastic needs to come out to get to easily. You may be able to pop off thing's upper cover, but since they're not readily available at the moment, I'd avoid that method because if you may break the tits that hold cover on to base. Wiring for the lighting does route through and under the plastics and then below the playfield. Also the plastics are assembled together as one piece.

#2634 11 months ago

Screws on the left deep down in the plastic layers. A long magnetic screwdriver may help.

#2635 11 months ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I redid mine with the bare bracket. it's not too hard but you need a rivet press to attached the list socket to the bracket.

Got any pictures of the wiring you rigged up for it? Maybe I can copy your design.. Thanks!

#2636 11 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

There are 2 philips screws at the rail. The light housing is riveted on so that plastic needs to come out to get to easily. You may be able to pop off thing's upper cover, but since they're not readily available at the moment, I'd avoid that method because if you may break the tits that hold cover on to base. Wiring for the lighting does route through and under the plastics and then below the playfield. Also the plastics are assembled together as one piece.

Thanks a lot.

Could I not simply unscrew the two Philips screws that go through the top piece of the plastic (the ones that go through a black standoff) and then pop off the top part of the plastic? Or was that what you meant by "pop off Thing's upper cover" ?

If not, do I have to completely remove the two rail screws or can I loosen them enough to work the plastic out from underneath the heads? It all looks very tight up at that part of the playfield.

Lastly - can you tell me what type of GI bulb is under there? #555 or #44/#47?

Thanks again

#2637 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks a lot.
Could I not simply unscrew the two Philips screws that go through the top piece of the plastic (the ones that go through a black standoff) and then pop off the top part of the plastic? Or was that what you meant by "pop off Thing's upper cover" ?
If not, do I have to completely remove the two rail screws or can I loosen them enough to work the plastic out from underneath the heads? It all looks very tight up at that part of the playfield.
Lastly - can you tell me what type of GI bulb is under there? #555 or #44/#47?
Thanks again

Sure, NP. I'm pretty sure (Don't have the playfield I was working on and my machine is at home) that the black stand offs are actually screwed and nutted and hold the entire plastic set up as one. I think the one stand off is just a kick stand and they tried to make it easier by only have those two screws at the rail. But thats a PITA to get back screwed on and you likely will drop a screw trying since it's the old single hinge set up.

The thing cover is the normally red plastic box. In the picture I showed it has the THING decal on it. It's hinged in the back and may allow you to slip in to get the 555 bulb in/out. I wish I had some pictures of that area, but I don't.

#2638 11 months ago

Found tear down with the whole assembly removed. Yes, looks like the one plastic is just a support and uses two philips at rail.

66D7634E-47CA-4F8E-B4FC-0D34B484D030 (resized).jpeg

#2639 11 months ago

That's perfect, thanks. Can see now that the two Philips rail screws are the only way to get into it

#2640 11 months ago

My addams family speaker isn't working in the base of the cabinet. Everything is hooked up, the sound almost sounds really quite or something. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!

#2641 11 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

My addams family speaker isn't working in the base of the cabinet. Everything is hooked up, the sound almost sounds really quite or something. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!

Loose or broken wire or IDC connection, blown cap on the audio board?

Bad speaker?

#2642 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Loose or broken wire or IDC connection, blown cap on the audio board?
Bad speaker?

Thanks the IDC connection is good, I'll replace the cap and also try a different speaker. That was my next plan of attack. Thanks!

#2643 11 months ago

I've had two Addams Family pins over the years and this one I have currently the sound doesn't seem as loud. Almost like the background music was louder on my other one. My first Addams had the gold roms and this one has the standard ones. Would that make a difference? Also the knocker inside the cabinet isn't as loud either is there a mod that makes it louder?

#2644 11 months ago

Aiming to take the ramp off my TAF this weekend to fit new pop bumper rings, etc. Does anyone know off the top of their head (or better still - has photos) of how many/which connectors need to be unplugged from underneath? As I understand it all of the switches, flashers, etc run along the ramp and exit below the playfield? Thanks in advance.

#2645 11 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I've had two Addams Family pins over the years and this one I have currently the sound doesn't seem as loud. Almost like the background music was louder on my other one. My fist Addams had the gold roms and this one has the standard ones. Would that make a difference? Also the knocker inside the cabinet isn't as loud either is there a mod that makes it louder?

The Gold ROMs just add some more callouts and alter gameplay in a few ways (random mansion bonuses), it doesn't alter the volume or anything. If your knocker isn't loud I'd check the coil is making good contact with the cabinet, isn't worn, etc. Since it works the wiring is presumably ok.

#2646 11 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

The Gold ROMs just add some more callouts and alter gameplay in a few ways (random mansion bonuses), it doesn't alter the volume or anything. If your knocker isn't loud I'd check the coil is making good contact with the cabinet, isn't worn, etc. Since it works the wiring is presumably ok.

Okay thanks! I just removed all the ramps off my addams recently for a good cleaning. Only a few connections underneath the game that needed to be unplugged.

#2647 11 months ago

Just put my Black Friday purchases to work and have been putting in the LEDs for inserts, GI and backglass. Have more GI to do, but put in my first set of spotlights too and I feel like it’s TOO bright. Both of these pics are with the LEDs and spots in, but it feels more like the brightest one in person. I just started looking up pinstadium from some suggestions on Facebook, either that or might drop from the 4LED in the spots to 2LED? Anyone else have thoughts from theirs, or have I just been looking at lights too much for one day? Ha

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#2648 11 months ago

You could go with brighter ones at the back of the playfield, the ones under the plastics. I've seen some TAFs that are brighter back there.

Another option is a spotlight shining on the bookcase area.

I do think that yours looks too bright at the front though, relative to the rest of the playfield.

#2649 10 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I've had two Addams Family pins over the years and this one I have currently the sound doesn't seem as loud. Almost like the background music was louder on my other one. My first Addams had the gold roms and this one has the standard ones. Would that make a difference? Also the knocker inside the cabinet isn't as loud either is there a mod that makes it louder?

Check R23 and R24 on the Audio board. Verify they are 56k, and not 150k.
The pre-DCS audio boards had two revisions, one where these two were 150k, and the other where they were populated with 56k. The WPC schematics show them as 120k, this is wrong.

The values ehre are the pre-mix audio levels, so if they're 15k, will cause the channels to be quieter.

#2650 10 months ago

Took the main ramp off my TAF at the weekend, I now officially hate playfields that don't pull out...

It actually isn't a hard ramp to remove, but the logistics of actually unscrewing it are a massive pain. I thought I'd post this not as a guide but more of a "these are the issues I ran into" in the hope it might help others.

I genned up on what was involved by reading lots of posts on this thread and elsewhere, but still got caught out. I don't know if my TAF is different to others but the two lights above the Thing ramp were screwed onto the ramp, and cable tied to it, and the connector for them went down a completely different hole in the playfield....

IMG_2666 (resized).jpeg

IMG_2667 (resized).jpeg

This piece of plastic is annoying..

IMG_2668 (resized).jpeg

..you can't remove the ramp fully from the machine without at least loosening it because the two connectors that you unplug from the bottom of the playfield will not fit through the hole. The hole is big enough for the wires, but not for the connectors. That blue plastic piece is screwed onto the wooden rail with two Philips screws. You will need a short screwdriver to access them as they are almost directly under the glass channel (you could remove that instead but I chose not to because I didn't want to have to deal with glass fitment issues afterwards).

I would suggest removing this piece completely and change the two #44 GI bulbs underneath to something like Comet Optix Maximus, as the back of the playfield on Addams is notoriously dark. I went with Ice Blue which is a nice halfway house between natural white and the blue of the plastic above.

If you change the post rubbers at the same time as removing the ramp - as I did - you will likely find, particularly if you buy the Titan silicone ones, that the ramp is a very tight fit when you try to put it back in the game because of the post by the entrance...

IMG_2665 (resized).jpeg

...I actually struggled with this part because the Titan post silicone is quite a bit thicker than the standard black one. I would even suggest trying a "Stern slim" one here instead. You can see the difference in thickness here:

IMG_2670 2 (resized).jpeg

Lastly, the following tool is an absolute boon when it comes to unscrewing hard to reach screws. I managed to remove the ramp from mine using it without having to lift the playfield up at all (other than to disconnect the connectors). It has a wheel you can rotate by hand to unscrew, or it will ratchet screws tight or loose if you want:

amazon.com link »

Anyway, I hope this helps anyone removing the ramp. Obviously the other standard things apply - you need to push the diverter in to remove the ramp. If you don't and you've never removed the ramp before you'll wonder why it's not coming off properly...

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