(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by pinballinreno
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There are 2934 posts in this topic. You are on page 52 of 59.
#2551 5 months ago

Is it normal for the white pop bumper cap to be chopped slightly? I presume this is so that the ball clears it going up the ramp? Mine is chopped and it looks too precise to be a mod.

Reason I ask is that I bought some BriteCaps Evo LED rings to go in my pops, and they are almost the same size as the cap so would protrude out... Anyone else done similar?

#2552 5 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Is it normal for the white pop bumper cap to be chopped slightly? I presume this is so that the ball clears it going up the ramp? Mine is chopped and it looks too precise to be a mod.
Reason I ask is that I bought some BriteCaps Evo LED rings to go in my pops, and they are almost the same size as the cap so would protrude out... Anyone else done similar?

Yes white Cap on pop is trimmed from factory.

#2553 5 months ago

It needs to warm up... SO IT CAN KILL YOU! WOOOOOHOOOOO!!! It'a alive! I did a test wire up to see how the boards are, I'm still going to replace all of them as they look like they've been to war. But at least they work! One column of the DMD is dead, but I plan on getting a ColorDMD anyway so...

Next tasks are rebuilding the speaker panel and wiring up the playfield. I'm on a roll!!!

IMG_0255 (resized).PNG

#2554 5 months ago

I want to fit these BriteCap EVO pop bumper LED rings to my TAF, but have noticed the white pop cap is trimmed very slightly.

Is there a reason for that? I can see it's cut along the ball guide for the ramp but I can't imagine why the ball would be hitting the cap in the first place?

So, safe or not?...

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#2555 5 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I want to fit these BriteCap EVO pop bumper LED rings to my TAF, but have noticed the white pop cap is trimmed very slightly.
Is there a reason for that? I can see it's cut along the ball guide for the ramp but I can't imagine why the ball would be hitting the cap in the first place?
So, safe or not?...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

It certainly doesn't stick out as far as the bumper cap. I'd say give it a few plays, if there are any problems you'll know. Airballs are what worries me in this case. You could try to trim the 3 LEDs off and bootleg some wire between the two neighbouring the cut off ones… I'm not quite sure how that thing is wired, but a little tinkering can get you far sometimes.

#2556 5 months ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

It certainly doesn't stick out as far as the bumper cap. I'd say give it a few plays, if there are any problems you'll know. Airballs are what worries me in this case. You could try to trim the 3 LEDs off and bootleg some wire between the two neighbouring the cut off ones… I'm not quite sure how that thing is wired, but a little tinkering can get you far sometimes.

Thanks for your reply.

I spoke to the guy that makes these and he was very helpful in actually trying that himself. Unfortunately trimming it down made quite a lot of the LEDs stop working. There is a ring of them underneath as well and they are closer to the edge.

As you say it's airballs that are a concern, as the ball normally doesn't hit pop bumper caps anyway. I don't really know how I would get an airball there though, and one that would happen in that area (e.g. off bear target) could hit pretty much anything.

#2557 5 months ago

I believe the intent to notch was for visibility from a players perspective but would love to hear what Lawlor’s intent was. I rocked a clear normal one for a while and it was fine. If it were me, I’d run the Britecap with uncut clear cap.

#2558 5 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

If it were me, I’d run the Britecap with uncut clear cap.

Same here. Just use a regular clear cap.
It looks a bit odd with the ring sticking out like that.

#2559 5 months ago

I’m running the Comet pop bumper ring with the same issue, I was just going to file a straight edge on the led ring for aesthetics but not get close to the circuits.

#2560 5 months ago

Yep, those were my thoughts too. Just go with a normal clear cap for the bumper. Honestly, I don't know why they even made these cut ones. The bumper is hidden from view anyway, it's high enough for the ball to not hit if it gets a normal whack from the upper right flipper, and as for airballs - what difference does it make? Airballs will hit the bumper cap regardless of whether it's trimmed or not… I didn't even know TAF had this special bumper cap and initially ordered a standard clear cap. I don't think it makes much difference to be honest.

#2561 5 months ago

Thanks all. You've reassured me I was a bit gutted when I bought the rings because they cost me quite a bit as I'm in the UK, and they look so cool (imo of course)

#2562 5 months ago

Share a pic! I was thinking of getting some fancy pop bumper lighting, but I don't like flooding games with lights cause my eyes start to hurt when playing. If they're subtle I might consider getting them

#2563 5 months ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Share a pic! I was thinking of getting some fancy pop bumper lighting, but I don't like flooding games with lights cause my eyes start to hurt when playing. If they're subtle I might consider getting them

Well, I like my games bright so I'm not the best judge, but they have adjustable brightness so you can make them more muted.

Here is a promo video of them:

And here they are on my TZ:

#2564 5 months ago

I think they use the trimmed cap there because it would look odd and unprofessional for Bally to have a cap intrude in to the ramp area.

In your case, I would install a standard (non trimmed) cap over the LED ring to protect the LEDs. You can always replace the inexpensive cap if/when it get chipped.

#2565 5 months ago

Currently busy with soldering everything onto the switch harness and getting the translite illumination panel ready. I've pulled out all the old bulbs, sanded the white side down, and applied the first coat of white. I'm sanding and treating all the metal parts as the paint dries. Hoping to have the backbox finished by today. Won't be shining though, the IDC connector from the translite light 4-strand is gone have one coming my way in the post. Might get a start on the apron just so it's ready for when I install the trough switches and wire up the solenoid.

IMG_0281 (resized).JPG

I must say it warms my heart to see her light up like this. This one really was dug out from six feet under...

#2566 5 months ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Currently busy with soldering everything onto the switch harness and getting the translite illumination panel ready. I've pulled out all the old bulbs, sanded the white side down, and applied the first coat of white. I'm sanding and treating all the metal parts as the paint dries. Hoping to have the backbox finished by today. Won't be shining though, the IDC connector from the translite light 4-strand is gone have one coming my way in the post. Might get a start on the apron just so it's ready for when I install the trough switches and wire up the solenoid.
[quoted image]
I must say it warms my heart to see her light up like this. This one really was dug out from six feet under...

Great job bringing her back!! Looks amazing

#2567 5 months ago

I imported a mint TAF to the UK, it is all working fine except for a couple of hopefully minor issues...

1. Occasionally when I make a swamp shot I get more than one callout, e.g. "10 million!", "It's Cousin It!", "Mamushka!" one after the other, as if I'd scored them separately, and then it kicks the ball out. It seems to only be the swamp that triggers it, and it doesn't happen every time.

2. Sometimes while the ball is in play, nowhere near the chair or the swamp, I'll get a callout as if I'd scored one of them. This seems to happen rarely, maybe once every 3 games or so?

I'm running the Gold ROMs if that matters.

#2568 5 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

minor issues...

Go into Tests - Switch Edge - bang on playfield, see if vibration sets off any switch needing adjusting.

Nothing there ? Then go over all your switches. Wired right ? Diode facing the right direction ? Any shorts to wiring ?

LTG : )

#2569 5 months ago

Thanks. I do have a Flipper Fidelity kit in it with the subwoofer.

#2570 5 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Go into Tests - Switch Edge - bang on playfield, see if vibration sets off any switch needing adjusting.
Nothing there ? Then go over all your switches. Wired right ? Diode facing the right direction ? Any shorts to wiring ?
LTG : )

Would the diode stuff trigger an error? I'm not getting any ground short or other errors reported on startup.

#2571 5 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Would the diode stuff trigger an error?

Part of your switch matrix, yes.

LTG : )

#2572 5 months ago

Would anyone be kind enough as to tell me where these switches go? I'm missing pictures and hopeless with the manual... I presume the top two are in the ball trough? Can't figure out the last one though.

IMG_0297 (resized).JPG

#2573 5 months ago

Middle looks like the thing hole to the left of the thing box.

#2574 5 months ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Middle looks like the thing hole to the left of the thing box.

Ah, of course, the through only has one of these big switches by itself. Where is my mind?... Could the bottom one be the shooter lane one? I seem to recall they were the odd looking ones.

#2575 5 months ago

Yes, I think so. I’ll check.

#2576 5 months ago

Yes, it’s the shooter lane.

#2577 5 months ago

Just got some mods for my TAF, need some spotlights. I need Black Friday to kick me up some deals! Lol ( I also need to get a Lester)

Question- I got the fuse mod for the magnets, and one of the magnets no longer had the connectors on them. Wires were cut and twisted together, then covered with duct tape. To get them to the fuse wires, does it matter which wire connects to the other? Both magnet wires look black which is why I’m asking. So trying to be sure it was done right.

#2578 5 months ago

HELP!!! So I've ran into some trouble... the Thing scoop hole doesn't align properly with the hole on the Thing box under the playfield. I've dropped a ball into Thing's box and it wouldn't go on into the scoop.
Clearly the obvious solution is to make the hole in the scoop a bit wider. Just wanted the go ahead from anyone with more experience with TAFs (this is my first one).

IMG_0317 (resized).JPG

#2579 5 months ago

Does anyone know if there is any rotation adjustment in the diverter arm? Mine is slightly off so when balls travel around the ramp they rock a bit and lose some momentum at the bit where it diverges before getting to the wire form. I don't really want to try and bend it unless I have to.

#2580 5 months ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

HELP!!! So I've ran into some trouble... the Thing scoop hole doesn't align properly with the hole on the Thing box under the playfield. I've dropped a ball into Thing's box and it wouldn't go on into the scoop.
Clearly the obvious solution is to make the hole in the scoop a bit wider. Just wanted the go ahead from anyone with more experience with TAFs (this is my first one).
[quoted image]

Are you using a new playfield? I'm in process of CPR with new scoops but haven't gotten to mount this one yet. I did all new scoops on my IPB and there wasn't an issue. Maybe just needs screws adjusted so it is better centered?

Quoted from Durzel:

Does anyone know if there is any rotation adjustment in the diverter arm? Mine is slightly off so when balls travel around the ramp they rock a bit and lose some momentum at the bit where it diverges before getting to the wire form. I don't really want to try and bend it unless I have to.

Pretty sure there isn't much as it's a flat spot for the allen set screw. Thinking you may need to slightly bend. You do have some play with the ramp screws to move it slightly further from diverter.

#2581 5 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Pretty sure there isn't much as it's a flat spot for the allen set screw. Thinking you may need to slightly bend. You do have some play with the ramp screws to move it slightly further from diverter.

Be sure under the playfield the heavy short spring that holds the plunger to the diverter pawl isn't broken.

LTG : )

#2582 5 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Are you using a new playfield? I'm in process of CPR with new scoops but haven't gotten to mount this one yet. I did all new scoops on my IPB and there wasn't an issue. Maybe just needs screws adjusted so it is better centered?

Pretty sure there isn't much as it's a flat spot for the allen set screw. Thinking you may need to slightly bend. You do have some play with the ramp screws to move it slightly further from diverter.

Thanks.

The ramp is coming off to fit some LED rings so I'll have a look at doing that when I put it back on.

Regards a heavy spring - the diverter works correctly in terms of moving out of the way for Thing flips etc, it's just slightly misaligned.

#2583 4 months ago

Update with what you may need as I have mine and another apart handy. Yes there isn’t much adjustment for diverter at solenoid with flat spot. So you’ll have to loosen screws or bend arm slightly.

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#2584 4 months ago

Thanks. Much appreciated.

#2585 4 months ago

I just replaced my original board with a one from Rottendog, and I am wondering where to connect the alligator clips from the topper now?

#2586 4 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Are you using a new playfield? I'm in process of CPR with new scoops but haven't gotten to mount this one yet. I did all new scoops on my IPB and there wasn't an issue. Maybe just needs screws adjusted so it is better centered?

New playfield and scoops. The Thing box is aligned well as the backboard mounting plate is snug in the original holes. It's the bloody replacement parts - they're a sodding nightmare!!!!!! I'm going to have to think of something...

Btw, two issues (grateful for any clues).

1) I'm having some problems with switches. I haven't installed all of them (maybe 80% done), but I went into the switch edges test mode and tried activating some of the manually. Some of the already wired ones work, some don't. I'm not getting any short readings, it's just as if they weren't connected... the switch is actuated cause I can hear the plates touching. Diodes are in the right way. Any ideas???

2) One of the flasher sockets seems to be dead? Only two of the LEDs come up, and I have no clue what this could be. All the other ones work fine, so it seems like it's just an issue with this socket, although it doesn't look bad and I've fidgeted with the wire and that yielded no change.

Thanks in advance, and a lovely Thanksgiving to all the pinheads celebrating.

IMG_0336 (resized).JPG

Some photos for you guys

IMG_0337 (resized).JPG

This one came out by complete accident - I unknowingly smudged the camera lens with my finger, but it came out supercool!

IMG_0329 (resized).JPG

#2587 4 months ago

Would anyone mind sharing a pic of the pop bumper area on the underside of the playfield? Can't wire that thing up properly and the lamp matrix isn't helping.

#2588 4 months ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Would anyone mind sharing a pic of the pop bumper area on the underside of the playfield? Can't wire that thing up properly and the lamp matrix isn't helping.

Do you need the wiring to the pop lamps or just the pop lamp tin layout? I can provide you the wiring with it later this week.

Quoted from snowvictim:

New playfield and scoops. The Thing box is aligned well as the backboard mounting plate is snug in the original holes. It's the bloody replacement parts - they're a sodding nightmare!!!!!! I'm going to have to think of something...
Btw, two issues (grateful for any clues).
1) I'm having some problems with switches. I haven't installed all of them (maybe 80% done), but I went into the switch edges test mode and tried activating some of the manually. Some of the already wired ones work, some don't. I'm not getting any short readings, it's just as if they weren't connected... the switch is actuated cause I can hear the plates touching. Diodes are in the right way. Any ideas???
2) One of the flasher sockets seems to be dead? Only two of the LEDs come up, and I have no clue what this could be. All the other ones work fine, so it seems like it's just an issue with this socket, although it doesn't look bad and I've fidgeted with the wire and that yielded no change.
Thanks in advance, and a lovely Thanksgiving to all the pinheads celebrating.
[quoted image]
Some photos for you guys
[quoted image]
This one came out by complete accident - I unknowingly smudged the camera lens with my finger, but it came out supercool!
[quoted image]

Nice catch on the accidental picture. Looks great!

Even using all new scoops in the one I'm working on, the thing box (Only part that isn't replaced) has been slightly opened up which actually helps entry. And actually was same with old scoops so it may be pretty common need. I still think that one could remount the subway and scoops to work but will take some time to fine tune.

As for the switches, make sure you don't have any broken leads that are down stream of the working ones. Did you wash your harness and switches and replace them too?

Flasher socket: I'd check that there isn't any of two leads to them touching somewhere. Not hard to do in places like under the ramp, etc. I'd target that one base and see. That may be why others aren't working.

TAF pop lamp wiring (resized).JPG
#2589 4 months ago

Thanks for the pick dmacy that ought to help me out loads! Would also appreciate if you could post one with the red and yellow lamp wires attached to the lamp ribbons. These pop bumper light, man... Nightmare (for me).

Not sure what's up with the switches though. The wire harness was washed and the switches have been replaced with new ones. I don't think the diode's on the wrong way round... I'll have to inspect and cross-reference with the matrix (maybe it's just one strand that's dead?). Unfortunately, I'm enervated by the sniffles so the job's on hold temporarily. I'll let you know about the TAF problems as soon as I'm better.

#2590 4 months ago

I’ll get you some pics. Best of better health and will give me some time to get the lamp harness cleaned/installed and will take some pics of this area before loading up other harnesses. It may be a few days.

Worth double checking it all. There’s a lot of switches in this! Feels like I’ve replaced a bunch and still have quite a bunch to go.

#2591 4 months ago

Here's a few of the original tear down pictures. I'm letting the lamp harness dry so hope to have that ready later this week with some good pictures without anything else blocking view.

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#2592 4 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Here's a few of the original tear down pictures. I'm letting the lamp harness dry so hope to have that ready later this week with some good pictures without anything else blocking view.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks so much, dmacy !!! This oughta help me out loads!

#2593 4 months ago

I think I paid under $2,000, back in the very late 90's. It seemed like a ton of money to me.

Even then it was popular and hard to find. The one I got had come off route and I bought it through the local operator. It was in very good shape, and still have it today. It will likely be in here until the bitter end.

I remember buying NIB Revenge from Mars shortly after. I played it for about a year but decided it was too much money tied into a so so game and it is long gone. I don't regret selling that one.

Dave

#2594 4 months ago

Just posted my Addams for sale in the market place. It is the one located in San Diego CA. Need room for the MBr I ordered. Let me know if you have any questions.

#2595 4 months ago

Here's the pop bumper wiring installed (few pictures are of it in progress). Hopefully it's helpful to snowvictim and others.

DSCN5064 (resized).JPGDSCN5065 (resized).JPGDSCN5066 (resized).JPGDSCN5067 (resized).JPGDSCN5068 (resized).JPGDSCN5069 (resized).JPGDSCN5070 (resized).JPGDSCN5071 (resized).JPGDSCN5072 (resized).JPGDSCN5073 (resized).JPG

#2596 4 months ago

That is some nice clean work!

#2597 4 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Here's the pop bumper wiring installed (few pictures are of it in progress). Hopefully it's helpful to snowvictim and others.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Legend! Thanks for the pics, I'm on the mends so I'll try to use these photos as soon as I can. I'll post pictures when I've made some progress. Thanks again dmacy

#2598 4 months ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

I just replaced my original board with a one from Rottendog, and I am wondering where to connect the alligator clips from the topper now?

Contact me, I can make you an adapter and can even upgrade it to my deluxe version. Thank you!

#2599 4 months ago

With the invaluable help from dmacy I've finally managed to get the bumper lights working! Made some nice progress this week, but I'm stuck on the trough switches (the matrix is of no help ). Would anyone mind posting some photos of how the trough switches are wired? I'm a bit lost with just the matrix reference (I've got no background in electronics).

Thanks in advance!

#2600 4 months ago

These are from my recent tear down not sure if they will be of any use

1FD12CD3-A9B2-4DA3-A2EC-10AEDB93115A (resized).jpeg3D398BAF-2555-4EDD-BCB9-504AC8FDB315 (resized).jpeg5646CEEF-5F39-4E76-A740-A25F553358B7 (resized).jpeg6D89E500-172B-4EFA-9CC9-91BBBC4997DC (resized).jpeg7D670257-3DA0-4832-BBC5-77D3E6757086 (resized).jpeg5765108F-0B42-4092-99F0-80FF10779AA5 (resized).jpeg8BA0220B-F24D-4FC0-B700-1AD425B95FF7 (resized).jpegEBF9E5A9-24BA-430A-A32C-3AFE113F5768 (resized).jpegF779EA52-1326-4F03-95BC-7D8470F66C59 (resized).jpeg
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