Yes, using blue led flashers bulbs instead of incandescent.

Re-quoting this from 3 years ago as it never got an answer...

Another TAF I'm looking at buying, which has been restored, has the pop bumper caps colours in the wrong order and unfortunately the top left one is wrong. How easy is it to remove the ramp?

Not bad. Just a few screws as I recall and slide it away from the diverter so you can reach under while keeping the switch wiring connected.

You can get access to the pop bumper screws etc doing that?

Also - what is the correct pop bumper cap order?

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The manual I've got says red (17), clear (16), blue (13), yellow (12) and amber (10). The Comet Pinball website (for their example kit) - image here - has yellow and amber switched around. This post from a year ago has yellow (17), clear (16), red (13), amber (12) and blue (10).

I know that TZ came with the pop colours "wrong", so is the TAF manual wrong? or do people just not particularly care what order the colours are in?

I just took the ramp off for cleaning, seemed to be 4-5 Phillips around the edge, the two sets of screws for the aluminum flaps, and the nut, for the wire ramp, I just moved everything over and you had decent access to the bumper caps. Oh yeah watch the diverter.

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Thanks man I guess when you say watch the diverter its that you need to just slide the ramp to the right when moving it out of the way? Or do you have to do something with the diverter?

It’s just pushing it in as it catches, hey I have to replace my opto boards on the bookcase. Is it just unbolting the whole assembly from the bottom to get to them?

Yup disconnect the molex, unscrew the hexes that hold it, Philips heads on top of the bookcase and underneath. Sounds more work than it actually is.

Just make sure all the bookcase parts are on in order of assemblance when you solder on the new board, otherwise you’ll have to delsoder and put all the parts on. I found that out! But I’m a numpty!

So here’s a question, I’ve been playing this Addams a good many times in the week we have had it, and am noticing the shot to the middle ramp seems to always go to the left flipper and never across the wireform to the right flipper. Does the player control this somehow or is it just not working?

Assuming not working haha

Does the diverter work in tests?
Bear ramp = wire form to right flipper.
Thing flips = to mini flipper.

Test the diverter in the coil test menu. Sounds like yours is not working. See if the wires are secure to the coil and see if the diverter moves freely.

Figured it out! Luckily it was an easy fix. It was working in the switch test, and hitting the switches myself it would score. Finally when I sent the ball slowly through it I figured out the switch wasn’t getting hit far enough by the ball to trigger!

Sweet, love an easy fix.

I installed all LED's and lit up the swap, vault, chair and put a red light by thing. I want to light up the topper with GI. Can someone explain to me if there is a location in the backbox where I can tap into the GI? I want to light my cloud topper with GI but keep the flashers for multi ball. I thought I can tie into the back of the lights on the back box for the backglass but it won't work

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I’m right behind you! I was going to run a line up from a matrix Led from Comet off a GI in the back of the playfield.

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It may be a bit of work but you could wire up a z-connector from the GI to use as a "tap" to keep it simple if you'd like to put it back to stock.

i have put a rgb ledstrip in the cloud , awesome in attract en playing mode , still have 3 flasher rings into it .

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I have a chance to pick up a TAF for $4,500. It’s in moderate shape, certainly not mint and would need some work. It would be my first pinball. Think it’s a fair price, or too many unknowns to tell?

Sub $5k TAF's in any condition are few and far between.

As long as everythings there, I don't think you can go wrong. You really don't find them for that cheap anymore. Even if you have to do a playfield swap you should be able to break even or maybe make a profit if you fix and sell it.

I always ask myself, if/when I go to sell it in a year, would I ask that same price when selling. Generally 4500 is not bad for a TAF with some wear issues and needing cleaning and minor repairs. How bad is that one?

I’d say it has some wear issues and needs minor repairs. I’m going to see it again in a week to look it over and open it up. One concern I have is that it has been moved between a climate controlled location in the winter and a non-climate controlled location in the summer (campground arcade in a garage) for the past ten years. Little concerned the insides might have been exposed to high humidity. Everything worked fine when I played it this summer with the exception of a weak right flipper (tough to get bear kicks). Thanks for all the rapid feedback!

I'm not aware that humidity affects the insides much. Mainly it causes planking on the cabinet art and playfield art first. The mechs and bulb sockets can get some surface rust. If those items are OK, the price sounds good.

Can anyone who did the uncle lester mod tell me where they got theirs from. I bought one from some vendor at the white rose show this year. I got him home and noticed the LED in his mouth is white instead of yellow and that the figure himself is a hard plastic instead of the rubber I heard the other ones are. I installed him and after having him fall out of the chair several times I tried double sided tape but he wouldn't stick to that. To make matters worse, he got decapitated by a ball after falling out the chair the last time. Can anyone give me insight on what their uncle lester is made out of, where they got him from and how they attached him to the chair?

Bootleg a wire from the backbox on the 6.3VAC pin and run that up, that's what I did. Forgot which pin and connector it was, have a look in the manual. Pop a crocodile clip on the ground wire and run that to any ground on the driver board, TP for example.

@Edit WHOOPS, I forgot. I had a 12V LED strip, so I didn't run it to the GI voltage, but to the 12V test point (so that it always lights up).

I got mine from a seller on ebay a couple of years and he is made of hard rubber. He is a tight fit in the chair and doesnt fall out. I will see if I can find where I got him from and PM you.

Now the ball occasionally gets trapped up there lol

You mean by the switch actuator or the diverter?

Edit

The switch actuator. If the ball rolls up there too slow, it doesn’t make it through. Finding it hard to get the balance right between the switch getting triggered consistently and the switch being too tight and catches the ball occasionally.

This is a good chance to learn to adjust a switch. And bend of the actuator should be past the switch body so you don't effect the tiny knob the actuator pushes into the switch body.

Assuming the right switch. Easy push - no longer made and pricey, medium push - works good, hard push - not for pinball.

LTG : )

Play around with the switch actuator then, try bending it in just a bit and seeing if that helps. I'd take the switch out for this, it'll just make things easier.

Good progress on the cabinet lol, starting the backbox tonight, will start grounding everything during breaks from sanding, filling, and painting.

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Where did you get the legs from?
I am thinking of getting new ones from Hot Rod Arcade.

That’s gotta be a good feeling putting it on legs. I’m still filling/sanding mine and it seems like it will never end.

I got mine from Pinball Center, that's a European supplier, but I know Chris over at Hot Rod Arcade works wonders in terms of plating. I'm ordering a brass lockbar from him as soon as I scrape up the money, just cause it's really hard to come by those on this side of the pond. I'd definitely go for HRA ones if I were you.

Oh yes it was... I know the struggle, just took out all the boards from the backbox and I was standing there looking at the wood thinking "not this again...". Stay strong!

sweet TAFG, and nice carpet !

Had to do some serious filler work on the corners and edges. This game was heavily beaten up and damaged during shipping, but she's gonna be a beauty once I'm done. Backbox almost ready for the decals, just letting the paint sit on there for a bit longer.

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Finally in the club. Fitted a new ColorDMD today, the only way I could get it to fit was to attach it on the lowest holes. Anything else would foul the THING board (had to remove it whilst fitting to get it on at all).

It's all in and working, and I adjusted the vertical height so that it's correctly aligned, but I now can't open the light board without taking the speaker panel out and resting it down, and when installed the top of the LCD partially obscures the bottom lights and casts a shadow on the translite.

Is this right? I can't see any other possible way the LCD ColorDMD can be fitted than how I've done it.

That is correct for the ColorDMD. The other alternative is to build your own skinny thing board, which is fairly easy to do: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-the-addams-family-club-tafmembers-fans-welcome/page/50#post-4640061

My project TAF is going well, finally finished the cabinet and backbox. Just waiting for the gold hinges to come in the post. I'm now officially onto the wiring bit, which is driving me insane. The wire harness has already been separated, and I'm giving it one more good clean before I actually install everything.

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By the way, I picked up these beautiful anodised 6-32 nuts and colour-matched them with the plastics. Need a couple more 8-32s as they really do look fab.

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Cracking set of nuts there

I finally finished my TAF restore yesterday after plodding away at it since March.

A couple of pics. It was a real minger. Restored original playfield, new ramp, targets, as well as the normal bits and bobs. I’d love to play it but now have a driver board fault to repair!!

Excuse the order of photographs. No
Idea why they’ve come out mixed up! Hopefully it’s obvious which are before and after.

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Very nice work! I like the stone side art.

Quick question fellow owners! Just started having issues with powering TAF up. Upon start up nothing comes on. After I flick the power switch on and off quickly a few times it powers up just fine. Has anyone had this happen?

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

Addams Family (TAF) USED Original Playfield Archived

Used, good condition - “Addams Family (TAF) USED Original Playfield. Just finished up a full playfield swap and have no need for the the original playfield. This is a great candidate for restoring or wa...”

2018-11-05

Charles Town, WV

Jesterfunhouse

300 (OBO)

Archived after: 14 days

Viewed: 599 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

Selling this USED playfield from a playfield swap I just completed. 50+ Pictures in the Ad...PM me with Questions.

Just a guess - It sounds like the 5v is not coming on for the CPU to boot.

Easy first test: If you look at the power driver board in back box, do you see All, Some or None of the LEDs on the board coming on when it does not start?

It’s intermittent. I also assume it is as well. I guess it needs the caps and bridges to fix the 5v since it doesn’t do it every time? PS I also have the Kahr daughterboard installed for a more stable 5v. It’s been installed for about a year so I’m surprised 5v would be an issue seeing as this is supposed to help that.

Does the skill shot eject need some kind of a plastic base? Or does the ball just sit there on the wood?

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Sits in the wood.