(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,365 posts
  • 379 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Ambro
  • Topic is favorited by 237 Pinsiders

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There are 3365 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 68.
#2301 1 year ago

Hey All.

Happy to have joined the club a short while back!

I have a couple of questions;

Does anyone know where to get bronze looking phone toy? No LED required. My TAF has all of the other matching toys but this piece.

Secondly, and far more importantly;

I have a ColorDMD LCD with Chroma Rev A2 driver board, which is connected with power and data (ribbon cable) but I do not have *THING* lights at all. The original PCB was removed and I have checked the display, there is nothing lighting up in that lower part of the screen. Is there another cable that is supposed to be used? I don't see that being the case in any but the old ColorDMD boards.

Now, oddly enough the pin still has an L-4 ROM installed so I will be ordering a replacement for either L-7 or the GOLD. Although I have read that the GOLD is unbalanced for scoring in competitive play. If this is the case, maybe I should stick with L-7 or one that is recommended.

Let me know your thoughts, thanks!

ColorDMD_ChromaRevA2 (resized).jpg
#2302 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Hey All.
Happy to have joined the club a short while back!
I have a couple of questions;
Does anyone know where to get bronze looking phone toy? No LED required. My TAF has all of the other matching toys but this piece.
Secondly, and far more importantly;
I have a ColorDMD LCD with Chroma Rev A2 driver board, which is connected with power and data (ribbon cable) but I do not have *THING* lights at all. The original PCB was removed and I have checked the display, there is nothing lighting up in that lower part of the screen. Is there another cable that is supposed to be used? I don't see that being the case in any but the old ColorDMD boards.
Now, oddly enough the pin still has an L-4 ROM installed so I will be ordering a replacement for either L-7 or the GOLD. Although I have read that the GOLD is unbalanced for scoring in competitive play. If this is the case, maybe I should stick with L-7 or one that is recommended.
Let me know your thoughts, thanks!
[quoted image]

I could be wrong, and I'm not sure this is the answer you're looking for, but I think with a newer Color DMD display, you simply mount your display higher and keep the original TAF light board. Then, in the ColorDMD menu, you compensate for mounting the display higher. Here's how mine is mounted:

IMG_2544.jpg
#2303 1 year ago

Darn, you are probably right.

Whomever installed the ColorDMD on this pulled the PCB and left it in the bin I suppose. I will have to order one of the newer Thing PCBs.

Thanks for sharing your picture.

#2304 1 year ago

Help needed. My chair kick out coil will not kick the ball out once shot into chair. I have been checking everything I can think of,when I ground the coil it fires as it should,I have 70 volts at the coil and the tip36c trans tests good. I have checked the wires from the coil to the boards and they seem good. All fuses are good and I am at a loss at this point. Any help would be fantastic. Thanks in advance.

#2305 1 year ago

I'd use a meter and check them to figure out which wire has a break, from coil to board.

LTG : )

#2306 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd use a meter and check them to figure out which wire has a break, from coil to board.
LTG : )

Did that LTG and the wires all test good.

#2307 1 year ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Did that LTG and the wires all test good.

Assuming coil is good. Then I'd suspect transistor that drives it, something upstream from it, or ribbon cable between CPU and driver board.

LTG : )

#2308 1 year ago

Perhaps I should pull the board and check joints.

#2309 1 year ago

I am going to pull a ribbon cable from another machine and try that

#2310 1 year ago

swapped known good ribbon and still not working.

#2311 1 year ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

swapped known good ribbon and still not working.

I'd try a different driver board if you can.

LTG : )

#2312 1 year ago

When I ground the tip120 it fires the coil can I assume that it is good?

#2313 1 year ago

Does the tip120 tell the tip36c to fire and the tip36c could be bad?

#2314 1 year ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

When I ground the tip120 it fires the coil can I assume that it is good?

Transistor legs to coil is good. That test doesn't mean transistor is good or anything upstream from it is.

LTG : )

#2315 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Does anyone know where to get bronze looking phone toy? No LED required. My TAF has all of the other matching toys but this pieces
[quoted image]

Old Time Telephone Die Cast Metal Collectible Pencil Sharpener amazon.com link »

#2316 1 year ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Help needed. My chair kick out coil will not kick the ball out once shot into chair. I have been checking everything I can think of,when I ground the coil it fires as it should,I have 70 volts at the coil and the tip36c trans tests good. I have checked the wires from the coil to the boards and they seem good. All fuses are good and I am at a loss at this point. Any help would be fantastic. Thanks in advance.

Have you checked the switch? Never looked to see whether it is a switch or opto

#2317 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Have you checked the switch? Never looked to see whether it is a switch or opto

It’s a switch. Game will only eject the ball if the switch says to.

#2318 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Transistor legs to coil is good. That test doesn't mean transistor is good or anything upstream from it is.
LTG : )

Quoted from dnaman:

Have you checked the switch? Never looked to see whether it is a switch or opto

Quoted from pintechev:

It’s a switch. Game will only eject the ball if the switch says to.

Transistor went bad. Took board out found bad transistor replaced it and it is good to go. Thanks for all the help.

#2319 1 year ago

Good to hear, now get back to playing that pin!

#2320 1 year ago

Hey everybody! I joined this club about a year ago with a shopped out and fairly well upgraded machine that I have been enjoying playing. It's my first pinball machine, and I have been adding a few upgrades along the way after a lot of reading pinside threads. But now I am thinking about some minor restoration work. The first thing on my list is the Swamp plastic, which I cannot find for sale anywhere separately in the U.S. Someone had added two red posts to it--I took them off but now there are two ugly holes. I am thinking about sticking a plastic alligator on top of them to hide them. Is there any other solution to fill a hole in clear plastic that won't look terrible? Or should I just keep an eye out for one of these showing up for sale eventually?

IMG_2526 (resized).JPG
#2321 1 year ago
Quoted from Michael_D:

Hey everybody! I joined this club about a year ago with a shopped out and fairly well upgraded machine that I have been enjoying playing. It's my first pinball machine, and I have been adding a few upgrades along the way after a lot of reading pinside threads. But now I am thinking about some minor restoration work. The first thing on my list is the Swamp plastic, which I cannot find for sale anywhere separately in the U.S. Someone had added two red posts to it--I took them off but now there are two ugly holes. I am thinking about sticking a plastic alligator on top of them to hide them. Is there any other solution to fill a hole in clear plastic that won't look terrible? Or should I just keep an eye out for one of these showing up for sale eventually?[quoted image]

Here you go:

ebay.com link

#2322 1 year ago

Does anybody know where to get a clear ramp? Marcos says they are out of stock for 2 or more weeks.

#2324 1 year ago

Thank you LTG, all ordered.

#2325 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Here you go:
ebay.com link

Ordered--thanks!

#2326 1 year ago

Lighted Magnetic Hinge Covers limited edition available for Twilight Zone, 5 minutes to install:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1032-lighted-pinball-mods/01733-the-addams-family-lighted-magnetic-hinge-cover-purple

You can get these in any color, however the purple is absolutely stunning and matches well- highly recommended for The Addams Family!!

Also don't forget to check out matching Lighted Speaker Panels for the highest quality LED upgrade available for your speaker panels!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1032-lighted-pinball-mods/00933-the-addams-family-taf-colored-led-speaker-panel-ultimate

addams family (resized).jpgthe addams family hinge cover text (resized).jpg
#2327 1 year ago

Hello Folks,

Some wear is occurring on the mansion area on playfield. I was going to pickup mylar from marco and cut it out into the shape attached as I heard corners are more likely to get lifted up by the ball. Any opinions would be appreciated. thanks!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFT

pasted_image (resized).png

#2328 1 year ago
Quoted from ZenTron:

Any opinions would be appreciated.

You can certainly trim the edges round. Try to make a single cut or not leave a 'stop/start' scissor edge.

Google Addams Family pinball overlay etc... There are other options such as a nice art based overlays, a clear full PF non adhesive overlay and of course pre-cut mylar with adhesive. The last one could also be trimmed only to the are of interest but check out the house overlay!

ADDAMS-Family-Pinball-Machine-MANSION-Insert-Decal-OVERLAY (resized).jpglarge (resized).jpgtaf_magnet_overlay_mop (resized).png
#2329 1 year ago

New The Addams Family software mod

Pinball people have expressed “if only you could not time out the power magnets on The Addams Family”. With reference to competition play, where players are holding the balls and waiting.

However, in my view, an improvement of the game will not be to extend the time out interval. But to shorten it.

First of all, the time out of magnets activity is not game design as such. But a safety precaution to not have them overheat (stock balls).

Second, I believe the magnets cause a bit too much randomisation in competition usage.

And third, if a player manages to trap up, why not reward an oppotunity for a clean shot. Right away.

The magnet feature is great. But I like to see it used a bit more subtle.

Dwelling a bit on this. How about a magnets rule, where precise shot making for mode objectives does not activate the magnets at all. But, with balls out of control, “The power” is thrown into the game.

The Addams Family
L-5 patch a656
Download link: https://tinyurl.com/y9xnjvur

The download contains a patch for both the Xdelta 3 and the LunarIPS tools. It also contains a backbox info sheet.

Changes

New feature adjustment A.2 29 The Power.

Options:
“Disabled”,
“Some-sw 2s”, “Some-sw 3s” (default), “Some-sw 4s”, “Some-sw 5s”, “Some-sw 6s”, “Some-sw 10s”, “Some-sw 15s”,
“All-sw 2s”, “All-sw 3s”, “All-sw 4s”, “All-sw 5s”, “All-sw 6s”, “All-sw 10s”, “All-sw 15s”.

“Disabled”: The power is disabled.
“Some switches”: The power is activated only on ball hits to standup targets (not Train wreck), pop bumpers and slingshots. With the designated timeout.
“All switches”: The power is activated on any ball activity (rev L-5 behaviour). With the designated timeout.

When Tournament play selected: A tilt do not advance GREED.
When Tournament play selected: The lock trough is emptied at end-of-game.

Adjustment A.1 28 Min vol. override, defaults to Yes.

Why it rocks

The “choiced switches only” magnets rule rewards accurate shooting and ball control.
Less waiting time for magnets to time out.
Menu adjustable timeout and mode of operation.
In competition play (single player games), the initial game state is the same for everyone.

Note

The power is still only in play in Seance and multiball modes.
The Train wreck shot is safe. Return balls to the Swamp targets and to the left slingshot will not activate The power.
The three The power flash lamps will occationally be run as light show. Even when the magnets are passive.
Selection “All switches 15s” will give the rev L-5 behaviour.
Please perform a factory reset upon installation.

Previously released software mods. All updated with LunarIPS patches. Many with backbox info sheets.

Creature From The Black Lagoon
Demolition Man
Dr. Dude
Earthshaker
High Speed
Junk Yard
Pool Sharks
Star Trek The Next Generation
Taxi
The Getaway High Speed 2
Theatre Of Magic

Get them all here: https://tinyurl.com/ybpyrzg9

Added 13 months ago:

Had to update the collection package. Get the update one here: https://tinyurl.com/yb52ld5z

#2330 1 year ago

soren, this sounds killer! It amazes me that some of you have this talent, I would love to see how you do this.

So is L5 the last official version? I ask as I believe that the ColorDmd site recommends or 'required' L7. I only have L4 so it is time to upgrade, your build would be perfect. Not sure why ColorDMD is requiring L7 (or Gold) though.

#2331 1 year ago

Thanks.

According to the information I have been able to source, the L-5 is the latest officially released ROM. And it is released later than L-7 which was either an internal prototype. Or a semi official one for games at a show. The L-6 has minute changes for the Euro market. Coin defaults, I will assume.

And the L-5 one is what I see on games around.

As for ColorDMD, I doubt it matters much. If anything at all. If some pages turn orange with this ROM, I'd like to know.

As for the Gold one. Will, the primary intention of these ROM mod is to optimise the games for competition purposes. And for the Gold ROM, the first thing would be to revoke the Cousin It awards. Essentially making it the standard rules again.

#2332 1 year ago

L-5 works fine with ColorDMD in mine(LED version).

#2333 1 year ago

This is great but the one big change (I think) we all reall want is the ball save feature that is missing from Addms.

#2334 1 year ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

This is great but the one big change (I think) we all reall want is the ball save feature that is missing from Addms.

I agree.

Technically there is the ball save which will give you back a ball, on plunge, if you don't hit a switch. (Plunge just beyond Thing scoop and let the ball come back down to the flippers, shoot to chair for MB) That is useful for the 3rd ball launch on the multiball as it also keeps The Power off. Thai said, it seems that Soren is providing setting now to thwart that anyway

#2335 1 year ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

This is great but the one big change (I think) we all reall want is the ball save feature that is missing from Addms.

Ball Save ...
We dont need no stinking Ball Save

-7
#2336 1 year ago

Dont order from pinballbulbs.com because you will be waiting forever to get your product! Cointaker is very fast and I have never had problems like I have with pinballbulbs.com.

#2337 1 year ago

Just about finished repairing and cleaning my Addams Family but had three questions I hope someone can help me with:

1. Just received my Uncle Fester (Lester) from Pinball Pros. Just curious where others connect the LED. Do you hook it to the GI so it is always on or do you connect it to one of the lamps that would turn on when a specific action happens? I was thinking maybe one of the two LED's on the electric chair. Just curious what others have done.

2. I noticed when I start a game the T H I of THING light up immediately. Is this normal or do I need to track down a problem? If it is a problem does anyone have any ideas of where the problem may be?

3. The left side LED on the electric chair also lights up when the game starts but then goes out after the first time a ball is knocked into the electric chair opening. After that it seems to flash at certain times like the one on the right.

Love this game now that I have rebuilt the weak flippers, replaced the ramp with a clear ramp and done a bunch of cleaning. Looks great.

Thanks!

Alan

#2338 1 year ago

#1, For Fester (lightbulb in mouth), I've wired it to the left side light (electric chair scoop for mansion rooms). I've also replaced the left chair light with a colour matching LED to the bulb in Foster's mouth.

#2, For THING lights, this is a setting in the service menu. How many letters do you want to spot automatically? Set that in there.

#3, that's normal. The left side Chair light indicates that the scoop is ready to award a mansion room (whichever is flashing at that moment). Once you get it the light goes out. Make the bear ramp to light it again.

The right side light will light up with the vault light when you are ready to earn a multiball.

Enjoy!

#2339 1 year ago

I have mine wired to the left side as described above.

20150916_125209_resized (resized).jpg
#2340 1 year ago
Quoted from Tizz007:

Dont order from pinballbulbs.com because you will be waiting forever to get your product! Cointaker is very fast and I have never had problems like I have with pinballbulbs.com.

Comet bulbs seem to be the best for me. I have gotten them from Pinball Life, Cointaker and Marco. They are also good.

#2341 1 year ago

dnamam,

Thanks very for the quick and thorough reply! I will take your advice on the wiring. Thought the Thing lights might have been a setting so I will go hunt that down. Addams Family is such a great game so much going on and so many mods to enhance the appearance and playability. Just ordered some enhanced topper lights but that is just the beginning!

Thanks again I really appreciate your help.

Alan

Fiberdude120,

Thanks for the confirmation on the wiring! I like your Uncle Fester with the EL wire. Very cool!

Alan

#2342 1 year ago

Fellow pinsiders, one of the mylars is lifting on my TAF. Should I try to remove, try to re-adhere, or leave alone?

30C59CCB-1FA1-435F-9EB4-85CEDCAD2D4D (resized).jpeg
#2343 1 year ago
Quoted from Michael_D:

Fellow pinsiders, one of the mylars is lifting on my TAF. Should I try to remove, try to re-adhere, or leave alone?
[quoted image]

Sadly it will have to be removed.
Your choice as to whether you use the heat or freeze or alcohol soak/wet method.

If the edge is lifting I always elect to use the wet method.
Its time consuming but does the least damage.

Use plastic razor blades or credit card egdes.

#2344 1 year ago

I would leave it alone. You already have cracks around the inserts. Trying to remove it the is a good chance the decals on the inserts will come off with the Mylar. It’s not going anywhere. If you are unsure don’t mess with it.

#2345 1 year ago

That would drive me crazy. I would try the freeze method and see how that works. Go easy until you are off the insert decal or you could lose them.

#2346 1 year ago

I would not touch it unless it’s affecting the gameplay.

#2347 1 year ago

the problem is since it's lifting it's going to start to curl and when it curls it's going to launch the ball and cause some divots or further damage to the Playfield.

So pretty soon it's going to have to be fixed

#2348 1 year ago

About to live stream our Addams Family with newly chromed Ramps, lockdown bar and switch plate covers on the Ramps. From Pinball Plating
9-11 PM central
Twitch.tv/thepinballmafia

#2349 1 year ago

Does anyone else have an issue with the ball dropping off of the main habitrail?

This was an issue with some frequency and then after cleaning and buffing the pf, it was happening all of the time. I will have to check the pitch but aside from that has anyone else had this problem?

#2350 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Does anyone else have an issue with the ball dropping off of the main habitrail?
This was an issue with some frequency and then after cleaning and buffing the pf, it was happening all of the time. I will have to check the pitch but aside from that has anyone else had this problem?

It is really common it seems with the new ramp and a freshly waxed playfield. I've tweaked the diverter a bit to help slow the ball down. But it generally goes mostly away when it's not fresh and slippery.

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There are 3365 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 68.

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