(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

5 years ago



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  • 3,007 posts
  • 357 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by Pinhead1982
  • Topic is favorited by 215 Pinsiders

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There are 3007 posts in this topic. You are on page 44 of 61.
#2151 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I used satin black Krylon on my tz on the edges and it looks great

this one:amazon.com link »

or this one:

amazon.com link »

??

#2152 1 year ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Wow learned something new today

Me too. Shouldn't have spoken without checking. My bad. Thanks BK

#2153 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

They're all GI. The bayonet sockets are meant to take 455 flasher lamps. They only came in that base at the time.

This.

#2154 1 year ago

my right lower eos switch is not registering when i manually do a switch test, there is no error on the test report regarding any switches. i can visually see the switch contacting so i know it is not a mechanical problem and i resoldered the wires to make sure the connection was good. I noticed there are two orange wires attaching to the left lower flipper but only one on the right lower flipper is that correct?

#2155 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

this one:amazon.com link »
or this one:
amazon.com link »
??

The first one, really they’re both the same formula, but the first can has the really good nozzle, be sure to clean the nozzle good after use. Don’t take my word on a perfect match on the cab decals, the satin looks great on the wood and blends in nicely, try a few hidden spots first

#2156 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

my right lower eos switch is not registering when i manually do a switch test, there is no error on the test report regarding any switches. i can visually see the switch contacting so i know it is not a mechanical problem and i resoldered the wires to make sure the connection was good. I noticed there are two orange wires attaching to the left lower flipper but only one on the right lower flipper is that correct?

never mind, the j806 connector was loose. problem fixed. duh

#2157 1 year ago

In the Club!!!

Let the troubleshooting commence ...

Ball won’t kick out of the thing hole when solenoid fires, what will fix this?

Gold roms installed; last three letters of Thing already lit??

Is this correct?

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#2158 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Ball won’t kick out of the thing hole when solenoid fires, what will fix this?

In the solenoid test, can you see the plunger move in test mode?

If you lift up the playfield, does the plunger move freely?

Everything mounted securely?

#2159 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Gold roms installed; last three letters of Thing already lit?

I see colordmd. So someone installed new Thing board. Cable on backwards. Also, how many arw lit at start of game based on diffulculty in settings.

Bu the way.
"Welcome Honored Guests"

#2160 1 year ago

Are the screws for the solenoid bracket tight? Possibly the kicker isn't aligned properly and just needs to be tightened properly.

#2161 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

In the solenoid test, can you see the plunger move in test mode?
If you lift up the playfield, does the plunger move freely?
Everything mounted securely?

Quoted from Crispin:

Are the screws for the solenoid bracket tight? Possibly the kicker isn't aligned properly and just needs to be tightened properly.

Adjusted the firing mech, thing kick out hole is working properly now. Thanks guys!

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I see colordmd. So someone installed new Thing board. Cable on backwards. Also, how many arw lit at start of game based on diffulculty in settings.
Bu the way.
"Welcome Honored Guests"

Which connector do I look for?

Honored!

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#2162 1 year ago

This maybe?

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#2163 1 year ago

That is for your "thing" lights under your display. You need to lift your playfield up and check the thing kick out coil. It is underneath the playfield right under your first photo.

#2164 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

That is for your "thing" lights under your display. You need to lift your playfield up and check the thing kick out coil. It is underneath the playfield right under your first photo.

The lockout coil is working correctly now after I adjusted the bracket,

My problem now is the “thing” lights on the speaker panel aren’t lighting up correctly

#2165 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

The lockout coil is working correctly now after I adjusted the bracket,
My problem now is the “thing” lights on the speaker panel aren’t lighting up correctly

The wire connection you have in your hand (last photo) is the connector for your thing lights. Try taking the electrical tape off and turning one end of the connector around reconnect and re tape. Should sort your issue out provided the thing light board is still standard and no one has messed around with the wires on the connector.

Good Luck!

#2166 1 year ago

If thats a z-connetor you may be able to reverse it. Looks way different than mine.

#2167 1 year ago

I will tackle the Thing lights connector soon...

I Discovered a mod protection fuse blown under the playfield for the left magnet, I replaced the fuse with a three amp slow blow and it seems that the magnet is locked on, I switched connectors to another magnet, and powered on the machine and that magnet locked on also. So I guess I’m looking at replacing a transistor and driver. Does anyone offhand know which one I need to look at on the driver board ?. I’m waiting on my manual to arrive that I purchased a few days ago

#2168 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I will tackle the Thing lights connector soon...
I Discovered a mod protection fuse blown under the playfield for the left magnet, I replaced the fuse with a three amp slow blow and it seems that the magnet is locked on, I switched connectors to another magnet, and powered on the machine and that magnet locked on also. So I guess I’m looking at replacing a transistor and driver. Does anyone offhand know which one I need to look at on the driver board ?. I’m waiting on my manual to arrive that I purchased a few days ago

Maybe just get the newer replacement board it's really nice:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-addams-family-fused-high-power-board-a-15139

#2170 1 year ago

Lol, I just ordered that. Thanks guys!

Does this board hold all of the drivers necessary to control the magnets?

If the magnet is locked on, does this board replace the driver functionality from the MPU?

#2171 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Lol, I just ordered that. Thanks guys!
Does this board hold all of the drivers necessary to control the magnets?
If the magnet is locked on, does this board replace the driver functionality from the MPU?

Yes and yes.

#2172 1 year ago

If the problem is the typical failed tip36 on the magnet board.

#2173 1 year ago

Looks like I need a front cabinet decal, this one has been painted just way too much and looks like the texture of a skateboard deck. Does anyone have a source for one, a nice one?

#2174 1 year ago

Where can I find the, " Beware of Thing " sign ?

#2176 1 year ago

Thanks Crispin ,
Maybe I am wrong , isn't there a different one that has more detail , like wood planks???

#2177 1 year ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Thanks Crispin ,
Maybe I am wrong , isn't there a different one that has more detail , like wood planks???

This is one that was archived 10 mos ago by bigearl

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-beware-of-thing-sign-mod

#2178 1 year ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Thanks Crispin ,
Maybe I am wrong , isn't there a different one that has more detail , like wood planks???

You mean this one? Was made by a pinsider. You just print the file on glossy paper and than make you your own plastic. Isn’t difficult.

92185EF4-2E3F-4289-9B8E-BBFA23DA90E0 (resized).jpeg

#2179 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

You mean this one? Was made by a pinsider. You just print the file on glossy paper and than make you your own plastic. Isn’t difficult.

Ya that's the one I was thinking about .
Didn't realize it was a print and stick
Thanks guys.

#2180 1 year ago

Oh boy, i need some help, i was almost completely done swapping out my playfield (everything worked, i was just adjusting my flippers, with the power off) and lost my dot matrix display. checked the fuses (accidentally broke one, but pulled one out of my termiator and dmd still not working) pulled the dmd out and put it in my terminator pinball and it works fine, so i know the problem is my dmd board. Ok so i am just going to order a new board, but then notice my leds which are running off of j116 are not working either. pull out the fuse and see that it is blown, ok easy fix, I run down to menards get a 3amp sb fuse stick it in, but no luck. pull it out check it and shows continuity, put it back up and fire it up. Check the voltage across F116 and getting nothing. check the voltage on J116 and J118 and i get 5 volts but no 12. Pull the fuse out again, to make sure it is seated and check the continuity and it is blown. Check the continuity between the bottom edge of F116 and I am getting continuity with all of the pins on J116 and J118, does that mean I have a short on the board? I shouldnt have continuity with the ground pin correct? I also get continuity with each of the pins and ground on J116 and J118, thats not right either correct?

#2181 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

Oh boy, i need some help, i was almost completely done swapping out my playfield (everything worked, i was just adjusting my flippers, with the power off) and lost my dot matrix display. checked the fuses (accidentally broke one, but pulled one out of my termiator and dmd still not working) pulled the dmd out and put it in my terminator pinball and it works fine, so i know the problem is my dmd board. Ok so i am just going to order a new board, but then notice my leds which are running off of j116 are not working either. pull out the fuse and see that it is blown, ok easy fix, I run down to menards get a 3amp sb fuse stick it in, but no luck. pull it out check it and shows continuity, put it back up and fire it up. Check the voltage across F116 and getting nothing. check the voltage on J116 and J118 and i get 5 volts but no 12. Pull the fuse out again, to make sure it is seated and check the continuity and it is blown. Check the continuity between the bottom edge of F116 and I am getting continuity with all of the pins on J116 and J118, does that mean I have a short on the board? I shouldnt have continuity with the ground pin correct? I also get continuity with each of the pins and ground on J116 and J118, thats not right either correct?

ok found the answer with the help of another pinsider, this video shows the fix

#2182 1 year ago

Installed uncle fester today. Nice add for an empty chair. Now to find some EL wire.

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#2183 1 year ago

Heres mine

20150916_125209_resized (resized).jpg

#2184 1 year ago

Had some EL wire lying around so made something. Set it parallel to the right lighting bolt. Looks great I think

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#2185 1 year ago

Has anybody on here used the Phoenix arcade decals on their game. Wanted to know if you found they were easy to work with.

#2186 1 year ago
Quoted from mmr61184:

Has anybody on here used the Phoenix arcade decals on their game. Wanted to know if you found they were easy to work with.

I’ve purchased a lot of decals from Phoenix , they’ve got a great product. I have their TZ front decal they did a short run of, it is great, easy as can be I guess

Edit;

Ive been looking for a front decal, where did you find Phoenix arcade decals? I don’t see them on their site

#2187 1 year ago

Hello! Bout to be in the club, as of Sunday. Very excited. I ordered a Color dmd for my game but I believe that this causes the thing lights not to work Or requires removal of that light board? I am not really sure.

If that is the case, How do I get the thing lights to work with a color dmd? Does someone sell a new light board or something? A link would be awesome. Thank you.

#2188 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I’ve purchased a lot of decals from Phoenix , they’ve got a great product. I have their TZ front decal they did a short run of, it is great, easy as can be I guess
Edit;
Ive been looking for a front decal, where did you find Phoenix arcade decals? I don’t see them on their site

eBay but you have to buy the set. Email darin see if he has any front decals laying around he will sell

#2189 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

Hello! Bout to be in the club, as of Sunday. Very excited. I ordered a Color dmd for my game but I believe that this causes the thing lights not to work Or requires removal of that light board?

You do not have to remove the light board on any ColorDMD anymore. The original lights will fit. On the other hand, ColorDMD might not be the best use of $400 for TAF - there are very few animations. I had it in there for a month and then removed it and moved to another game, and put the DMD back. Just not enough cool dots to spend that kind of money.

#2190 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

Hello! Bout to be in the club, as of Sunday. Very excited. I ordered a Color dmd for my game but I believe that this causes the thing lights not to work Or requires removal of that light board? I am not really sure.
If that is the case, How do I get the thing lights to work with a color dmd? Does someone sell a new light board or something? A link would be awesome. Thank you.

Just make sure you get the Color DMD LED and not the LCD and it will fit perfectly and let you keep your existing Thing Light board.
You will be giving up the ability to change modes like scan line, large dots and the like but the LED's have brighter colors and look awesome.

#2191 1 year ago

I love large dots

#2192 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I love large dots

I agree. Large dots are the best for the LCD's I own.
But on Games like Addams and Doctor Who that have light boards underneath, the LED's are awesome.

#2193 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Just make sure you get the Color DMD LED and not the LCD and it will fit perfectly and let you keep your existing Thing Light board.
You will be giving up the ability to change modes like scan line, large dots and the like but the LED's have brighter colors and look awesome.

Heh, a bit late. Whoops.

#2194 1 year ago

Get ColorDMD LCD. Change the lightboard to the new led design ($40) and the ColorDMD will fit fine.

#2195 1 year ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Get ColorDMD LCD. Change the lightboard to the new led design ($40) and the ColorDMD will fit fine.

Available where? Only place Ive seen it is Mezel mods , Sold out.

#2196 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Available where? Only place Ive seen it is Mezel mods , Sold out.

I got mine from Mezel awhile back. Didn't know they were sold out. Found this one in a search seems to be same one...

http://pin-mods.com/product/taf-thing-light-board/

#2197 1 year ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

I got mine from Mezel awhile back. Didn't know they were sold out. Found this one in a search seems to be same one...
http://pin-mods.com/product/taf-thing-light-board/

Thank you very much. Been looking.

#2198 1 year ago

Just so you guy Ya are aware, I installed the LCD color dmd with the original thing board in place. Never even needed to remove it. It’s pretty simple actually, simply install the color dmd with the normal 4 holes that it appears a color dmd should mount through instead of the higher up ones they suggest. Then, it all fits and you simply adjust the vertical adjustment down by about 5-7 clicks. No new board needed. This did cause one change though. I now have to close the back box light panel before I put the color dmd and speaker panel in but that doesn’t much matter to me. Cheers!

#2199 1 year ago

Hello,
Changed back box panel on The Addams Family a few years ago so both speaker openings are large and use 5.25" Pinball Pro speakers. This plus Pinsound with stereo wire harness makes it closer to stereo. Did not take pictures at the time but just did same to Dirty Harry last weekend. Did not use Pinsound for DH but did take pictures. Maybe to many pictures was a several beverage job. Hopefully link to post in DH Club thread follows.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-dirty-harry-club/page/17#post-4381487

2 weeks later
#2200 1 year ago

How the hell do you get to the back edge of the playfield to clean and take the ramps off? It's on a damn pivot nut and it's too close to the top edge to fit any tools back there.. is the only option to remove the damn entire playfield from the game? I'm not sure my wife and I can get it out, it's too bloody heavy.

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