That was a steal, if the wear is minimal to none yeah it’s worth that

Received and installed the bookcase mod. Looks great. Good bang for the buck

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Yes,I agree - great mod for Addams.Looks factory to me.The book must be red though to match the one on the playfield.Other option is green.

mjenison is the creator.

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Finished it of with the Beware of the Thing mod. And yes, all credits go to mjenison. Awesome seller

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Just showing off my Freshly shopped TAF

It finally happened a week ago.....

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But I got my new glass in the mail and everything is all better now!!!

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If you need new translite glass cut, give OneDayGlass a try. I have the measurements in a link in my thread where this happened, I put the order in Monday and got the glass in the mail 9 days later. Fit great and looks awesome!!

Hey, those look nice. Where'd you get them? Haha...

Awhile ago some dude posted some low-res pics on pinside...

Any suggestions where I can find nice target decals ? Some on Ebay...

Some awful gameplay on my TAF

Pinball Decals, Inc.

I'm selling a NOS TAF speaker panel!

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ok just installed my new playfield and powered things up, everything looks pretty good, but the "g" and the second "e" lights are not working. checked out the matrix and the fact that the other lights are working means that the j137 column is working. I check continuity on the board and everything is good. when i check continuity after the diode to the pin everything seems good. when i power up and check the voltage across the socket only reading about .3 volts vs. 1.3 on a working socket. So i figure the problem might be at the board, according to the matrix the ground is on connector J133 but when i look at the board i see that there is only one wire hooked in J133. This is the picture i took before i took out the playfied. Should J134 be in J133? Wanted to check with you guys before i mucked something up!

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Your connectors appear to be OK. If I am not mistaking these three connectors above each other are all in parallel.

See a picture below of my board. On you picture I don’t see 138 inserted by the way

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... for how much?

What's the going price on a fully NICELY playing but needing shopped AF assuming it's got enough playfield wear that I'd say it needed to be swapped if it was staying in my collection for a while. Mansion insert wear, other edging, scoops aren't HORRIBLE but not great..could be covered with cliffys, cabinet has minor wear around the flipper buttons, only solid black missing. Slightly faded yellows on cab art. Batteries moved off CPU, minor good-quality repairs to CPU and driver board.

Trying to figure out where the break point is on getting a beater versus paying for a shopped game...it doesn't make sense to fully shop (When I say shop I mean more than most people..I'm talking rebuilding flippers, rebuilding pops including new base/body/wafers/caps, converting to LED, installing plastics protectors, titan rubbers, new shooter rod and springs, new coil sleeves and springs for every coil, new star posts, etc) a game that needs a PF swap unless you're DOING THE PF SWAP at the same time? How much is just polishing a turd, ya know?

How about US$ 150 - shipped ww.

Feels like around 5,500-6k these days.

yes the picture was as i was removing connectors for documentation. everything is hooked up now. So if 133, 134, and 135 are in parrallel. i should be able to swap 133 and 134 to make sure the connectors arent burned on 134 right?

It wouldn't be a connector.
Since those lamps are controlled by a ROW and a COLUMN, if one of those connectors was bad, then you would get a whole ROW or COLUMN out, not a single bulb..

so most likely then a connector bad on the playfield lamp board?

Yeah, or:
(1) A broken row/column wire at a previous lamp in the wire loom (unlikely), or
(2) The twist sockets/holders are corroded and just not making good connection.

Likely, though, the two row wires for those lights (Red/Br & Red/Yel) just came loose in the IDC socket, and aren't making a connection.

So, spent USD 5 on eBay for a couple of fuseholders with a 3A sloblow fuse to make TAF more bulletproof. No brown burnmarks on my playfield

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Thats probably the best $5 solution out there, but you can still get magnet burn. I have seen it happen a couple times.

The best solution that I have never seen fail, is to get the replacement magnet board. I put them in all my TAF.

It was re-engineered to work correctly/perfectly and they are inexpensive:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-addams-family-fused-high-power-board-a-15139

If anyone has seen a burned playfield after installing this please let me know.

I was thinking of ordering a new idc connector for the playfield lamp board and then rewiring it, But I see that the wire runs through the connector on to the other lamps.

1) should i just purchase an idc connector tool and try to repunch the offending wires down
2) should i try to rewire the connector, if so, how do you remove the wires from the connector without damaging them?

Thanks for the tip.

I think this board looks great but in the end offers the exact same functionality, eg fuses in line with the magnet. Just nicely ordered on a pcb and not in the wires.

However, one thing I learned from it that he is using 2A sloblow fuses where I am using 3A. Will replace the 3A with 2A and see what happens. Worse case they blow in normal operation and I have to stick 3A back again.

Plus its not 25 years old and failure prone.
It's a high voltage circuit and the TIP36's are prone to failure or "lock on"

The whole board is only a couple bucks more than rebuilding an old board completely and getting in-line fuse holders.

JMHO

Says they are no longer available..?

Did you try the main site:

https://nvram.weebly.com/

True but sad story . A few years ago I saw an Addams family at a guys house that he wanted me to fix, I told him I really needed to take it to my garage and work on it there, since there was so much that he wanted me to do to it. He said no later on, and I let it go . A few months later I called him up and offered to buy the game from him since it wasn’t working. Long story short they said no and decided not to sell, no big deal. A few years pass and recently I’ve started looking for an Addams again... so I made the call to the guy again, he calls me back and tells me that an old power strip caught fire in the corner of the room opposite of their pins and the house burnt down along with the pins, no one was hurt. Of course now he wishes he would have made me a deal. And also talk to me about finding him a few more pinball machines, I don’t think he serious though as he still has no house. Fire happened early January .

Can’t reccomend this one highly enough. Great product.

No , I haven't
Cool

I just left the magnet fuse kit in when I put this new magnet board in. I know it’s overkill and not needed, but I will will leave both in anyways

any help on this?

Do you have a picture of the connector. It may be easier to help you out.

Looking for a TAF with a bad playfield. Have a new repro, just need the machine. Bad cab is ok too.

ok pulled the board out and the problem is i have two bad diodes on the board, where do i find which type of diode i need?

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IN4001 - 1N4004 will work just fine.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/micro-commercial-co/1N4001-TP/1N4001-TPMSCT-ND/773688

Pinball life may have them too. Great Plains is another good resource

Marco’s has them also . Look under game - F14(electronics section) first page 19 cents each

My Addams comes in Tuesday! About to be in the club.

i need to do some touchup paintwork on my cabinet (only the black) what have others used here, that doesnt look like you touched it up?

Have not been able to locate a source for the big through the cabinet bolts that the pivot nut screws onto?
Pivot nut at Marco link follows.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4329-2

Can one of you guys take a picture of the wiring on the light back board. Mine is hacked to crap. And I want to rebuild the wire harness. Whoever owned the game before me staples in bayonet sockets and put 455 bulbs in.

I used satin black Krylon on my tz on the edges and it looks great

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Bryan_Kelly are you sure that’s right. That’s what mine looks like I assumed that silver wire and bayonet sockets are a hack.

Nope, that's how mine is wired as well. They are controlled lamps, not GI.

Wow learned something new today

They're all GI. The bayonet sockets are meant to take 455 flasher lamps. They only came in that base at the time.