The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome

(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

4 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Michael_D
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There are 2325 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 47.
#1951 6 months ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

so i was just doing a PF swap and I got a new plastic set from Marcos but after swapping all the one i had on my old pf I am left with a whole a bunch... any clues where those go?

The green and yellow plant goes on top of the tapered post rubber under the left ramp.

#1952 6 months ago

Led thing board. Mine just sucks, no brightness at all. Installed to add colordmd, they are very dim. Threw in old one original last night, just fine lights up bright in all tests.
So, is my thing led board just old original design, 3 years old now, is there an upgraded newer style?
Thanks

#1953 6 months ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Led thing board. Mine just sucks, no brightness at all. Installed to add colordmd, they are very dim. Threw in old one original last night, just fine lights up bright in all tests.
So, is my thing led board just old original design, 3 years old now, is there an upgraded newer style?
Thanks

Put brighter LEDs in it

#1954 6 months ago

ok replacing my playfield and i need to replace the screws underneath the pop bumpers. i cant seem to find a part number for this screw. i have pictures below. If someone could help me that would be great!

thanks

screw (resized).jpg

playfield (resized).jpg

#1955 6 months ago

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=240

You want the twist shank screw. Don’t worry about the star head, it’s not visible and you don’t need to replicate that.

#1956 6 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

ok replacing my playfield and i need to replace the screws underneath the pop bumpers. i cant seem to find a part number for this screw. i have pictures below. If someone could help me that would be great!
thanks

Go to ipdb, find the parts list, search for things used in quantities of 15, towards the bottom you'll find:

2235 .2 4506-01104-20 sss 6-32X1 1/4 15

Punch that part number into marco to check: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4506-01104-20 which says it's been superceeded by 237-5957-00.

#1957 6 months ago

what good taste you have

pb (resized).jpg

#1958 6 months ago
Quoted from Bronty:

what good taste you have

Thanks! You too, sir, you too!

#1959 6 months ago

First test for the new apron decals... Just a little too big...

IMG_20180215_195423 (resized).jpg

#1960 5 months ago

Thanks for the help on the screws. I have another question, i noticed on the old playfield under the ramps is a colored vinyl fill piece. (see pics) do I need to replace these or use them at all, were they just fillers for the ramp?

pin2 (resized).jpg

pin1 (resized).jpg

#1961 5 months ago

You don’t need to replace those. It’s funnu that all games had them, but as long as your ramp and flap smoothly transition, no need to replace it.

#1962 5 months ago
Quoted from mschonbrun:

You don’t need to replace those. It’s funnu that all games had them, but as long as your ramp and flap smoothly transition, no need to replace it.

Thanks!

#1963 5 months ago

Those were actually used to help 'soften' or 'lessen' the bend that the ramp flaps can bend. (Also, they were 2-sided sticky tape, to help hold the ramp in place while screwing it down..) Without them - especially if you use a thinner ramp-flap material - you could get airballs off hard shots to the ramps.

#1964 5 months ago

I used 3M double sticky silicone mounting tape. I left the plastic covering on the top side. It comes in different widths.

#1965 5 months ago
Quoted from mschonbrun:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=240
You want the twist shank screw. Don’t worry about the star head, it’s not visible and you don’t need to replicate that.

ok i got these screws, how do i install them, they have a nail like head do you hammer them in, i dont see how you could hand screw them in flush?

#1966 5 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

ok i got these screws, how do i install them, they have a nail like head do you hammer them in, i dont see how you could hand screw them in flush?

See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-485851

#1967 5 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

ok i got these screws, how do i install them, they have a nail like head do you hammer them in, i dont see how you could hand screw them in flush?

I use a plastic mallet then a metal punch to get them flush.

#1968 5 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I use a plastic mallet then a metal punch to get them flush.

not that i ever plan to attempt this, but how do you uninstall them?

#1969 5 months ago

how flush do these things need to be. is this good enough? i am afraid to hit it any harder?

pin3 (resized).jpg

#1970 5 months ago

Pretty sure they need to be flush or the ball could stick there, or they my interfere with the skirt, etc. The holes should have a counterbore for the head to go down in.

#1971 5 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

ok i got these screws, how do i install them, they have a nail like head do you hammer them in, i dont see how you could hand screw them in flush?

Put the nut on the underside of the playfield and tighten it. It will draw the screw down safely. You don’t need to hammer at all this way.

#1972 5 months ago
Quoted from mschonbrun:

Put the nut on the underside of the playfield and tighten it. It will draw the screw down safely. You don’t need to hammer at all this way.

He's not pulling those down without tapering the top of the hole first. Simplest way is to use a drill bit the size of the head. Be careful.

#1973 5 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

He's not pulling those down without tapering the top of the hole first. Simplest way is to use a drill bit the size of the head. Be careful.

yikes, I actually did drill out the top of the hole first, but apparently it wasnt wide enough. Should I try to remove this screw, if so, do i just tap it out from the bottom? HELP!

#1974 5 months ago

I need a new chair for my Addams. Where can I get the lights that go on the side of the chair?

#1975 5 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

Should I try to remove this screw, if so, do i just tap it out from the bottom? HELP!

That screw appears to next to a post, so I guess it is on the back side of the pop and the ball never goes there? In that case, it may be OK to ignore that one and make sure to get the other ones right.

#1976 5 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I need a new chair for my Addams. Where can I get the lights that go on the side of the chair?

They are just 555 bulbs with colored lamp covers. Are you asking about the sockets themselves?

#1977 5 months ago
Quoted from mschonbrun:

They are just 555 bulbs with colored lamp covers. Are you asking about the sockets themselves?

Where are they wired up to?

#1978 5 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Where are they wired up to?

Small molex that goes under the playfield.

#1979 5 months ago
Quoted from mschonbrun:

Small molex that goes under the playfield.

Thanks

#1980 5 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

how flush do these things need to be. is this good enough? i am afraid to hit it any harder?

Hammer the old one out. Get a metal punch slightly smaller and hit it. It has to be flush.

#1981 5 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

He's not pulling those down without tapering the top of the hole first. Simplest way is to use a drill bit the size of the head. Be careful.

The screw has to be tight in the playfield or it will spin from the bottom if you take the nuts off.

#1982 5 months ago

Hi guys, I've got an issue with my recently aquired TAF which I can't quite figure out. This is a 'normal' 1992 TAF which runs the LX3 Gold Roms (I purchased it this way).

When I open the coin door, the service buttons/volume buttons do not work. You can hear the noise/beep when you press them, but the display reads 'open coin door to use service buttons'.

My first guess was that there would be acid damage. I drilled out the backbox lock (keys were lost) and yes there are leaking batteries (batteries from June 2015), but it does not seem to have affected the board. I attached a photo of this. The battery holder will of course be removed asap.

Also, after removing the batteries and starting the machine (factory defaults) the coin door buttons work, once. I can change settings and save them as normal. After leaving the adjustmens/test menu's however, it's back to the 'open coin door' message (coin door buttons still generate a sound).

Now, I've checked for a coin door switch but this does not seem to be present in my 1992 TAF. So now I'm wondering, do perhaps the TAF Gold roms expect a coin door switch to be present and be activated for the service buttons to work? Do I need to install a jumper somewhere in order to fake this coin door switch?

All ideas are welcome. Thanks!

IMG_7239 (resized).jpg

#1983 5 months ago
Quoted from Svend:

Hi guys, I've got an issue with my recently aquired TAF which I can't quite figure out. This is a 'normal' 1992 TAF which runs the LX3 Gold Roms (I purchased it this way).
When I open the coin door, the service buttons/volume buttons do not work. You can hear the noise/beep when you press them, but the display reads 'open coin door to use service buttons'.
My first guess was that there would be acid damage. I drilled out the backbox lock (keys were lost) and yes there are leaking batteries (batteries from June 2015), but it does not seem to have affected the board. I attached a photo of this. The battery holder will of course be removed asap.
Also, after removing the batteries and starting the machine (factory defaults) the coin door buttons work, once. I can change settings and save them as normal. After leaving the adjustmens/test menu's however, it's back to the 'open coin door' message (coin door buttons still generate a sound).
Now, I've checked for a coin door switch but this does not seem to be present in my 1992 TAF. So now I'm wondering, do perhaps the TAF Gold roms expect a coin door switch to be present and be activated for the service buttons to work? Do I need to install a jumper somewhere in order to fake this coin door switch?
All ideas are welcome. Thanks!

Check all the connecters under that battery mess you have going. Mine did the same and I found some bad pins in the connecters.

#1984 5 months ago

That message means that the game's "Coin Door Open" switch is reporting as closed, even when the door is open. Check the switch, and wiring to the switch.

Being able to access it once on factory reset is expected in this situation.

#1985 5 months ago

Is it saying 'Open Coin Door' when you turn it on?

I know some pins normally say that to let you know the batteries are removed/dead and everything is reset.

#1986 5 months ago

Hurray, I fixed the issue! I found a photo of another TAF which does have a coin door switch. I located the wire colors in the cabinet and at the end of those wires was a small (non-original) switch. I switched it into another position and it acts as the interlock switch, and all the buttons then work as well.

The machine was located at a company, my guess is that the owner wanted to keep his employees away from working volume buttons or something.

All I need to do now (quickly) is to remove that damaged battery holder.

#1987 5 months ago

I have been working on a Addams this week. Not my Gold but for someone else. Has anyone ever seen Fester and Swamp Scoops this bad. New ones are on order.

20180221_203712 (resized).jpg

20180221_203420 (resized).jpg

#1988 5 months ago

Wow—that is some battered metal.

#1989 5 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I have been working on a Addams this week. Not my Gold but for someone else. Has anyone ever seen Fester and Swamp Scoops this bad. New ones are on order.

Looks like someone was using the scoop to learn how to weld, and didnt use a hood or goggles!

#1990 5 months ago

Here is an objective based game you can play on TAF instead of just going for points, and to sharpen your skills for hitting shots while avoiding other shots. It was explained on The Pinball Players Podcast episode 26 about 10min in, and is also posted on their FB.

Here's how to play Jake Erskine and Theresa Nessel's The Addams Family Obstacle Course
Play with 2 to 4 players and play the number of games equal to or a multiple of number of players. Rotate who goes first.
The object is to complete these goals in order. Any shots made out of order do not count.
1. Skill shot. If you hit any other switch that validates the playfield besides the skill shot, your ball is over. You must complete the skill shot to advance. Doing so scores 1 point.
2. Spell GRAVE. Score 1 point for spelling grave and 1 bonus point for doing it in order.
3. Spell GREED - Score 1 point.
4. Thing Flips - Thing doesn't have to make the shot, it just must be flipped. Score 1 point.
5. Train Wreck - Score 1 Point
6. 3-Way combo - Score 1 point. May be repeated for an additional point as victory laps
If GREED multiball is started, all progress is lost and player must start back at 1 point and begin the process again starting with spelling GRAVE.
Bonus: Tour the Mansion - Score 10 points

#1991 5 months ago

Sign me up batman. Whooo hoo. TAF imcoming. Gonna need a hell of a clean up but hey, it’s a TAF..... and it’s mine!

#1992 5 months ago

Ok got a Addams about a week ago. Needed alot of new items. One was Festers chair. But I did not notice it does not have the metal bracket that holds the chair in place. Is this available?

#1993 5 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Ok got a Addams about a week ago. Needed alot of new items. One was Festers chair. But I did not notice it does not have the metal bracket that holds the chair in place. Is this available?

bare bracket on Marcos:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10593

but refer to this full assembly to see everything that needs to go on it as well:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15258

I just re-did mine, both sockets are riveted together through the bracket.

#1994 5 months ago

I am just wondering if anyone has any insight to a couple issues I am having with my TAF. The left slingshot is only firing in ball search and in tests. At first I thought it might be the leaf switches but there are no loose wires and everything looks fine. The only thing I have not tested is if the diode on the leaf switch is working because my Multi meter skills are pathetic at best. Is it possible that the diode is causing the problem.

Second problem is the thing flips is working but when the ball gets to the flipper nothing happens? I have replaced both optos hoping that would fix my problem but still nothing. I have posted about this problem before, but I have very little multi meter experience and there are no broken/loose wires anywhere to be found. I am hoping someone else has had this problem and can advise on what they did to resolve.

#1995 5 months ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

The left slingshot is only firing in ball search and in tests.

In the test menu is a switch test that you can use to confirm if the sling switch and optos are working. Start there and confirm what is working and what does not appear normal.

#1996 5 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

In the test menu is a switch test that you can use to confirm if the sling switch and optos are working. Start there and confirm what is working and what does not appear normal.

Yeah the slingshot was an easy fix, the leaf switch needed a minor tweak and now it is firing! However still nothing registering at the optos by the upper left flipper for the thing flips?

#1997 5 months ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Yeah the slingshot was an easy fix, the leaf switch needed a minor tweak and now it is firing! However still nothing registering at the optos by the upper left flipper for the thing flips?

Do the other optos work (bookcase)? If so, look for cracked solder joints/broken wires at the optos for Thing Flips. If none of them work, check the 12V fuse/power supply.

#1998 5 months ago
Quoted from mschonbrun:

Do the other optos work (bookcase)? If so, look for cracked solder joints/broken wires at the optos for Thing Flips. If none of them work, check the 12V fuse/power supply.

All other optos work and there are no obvious cracked/broken solder joints. I will check the 12v fuse/ power supply, but if that was blown wouldn't there be other issues?

#1999 5 months ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

All other optos work and there are no obvious cracked/broken solder joints. I will check the 12v fuse/ power supply, but if that was blown wouldn't there be other issues?

Correct, since the others work, it is not a fuse. Optos do wear out; see if you see if the transmitter opto through a cell phone camera; it should be glowing purple when viewed through a camera.

#2000 5 months ago
Quoted from mschonbrun:

Correct, since the others work, it is not a fuse. Optos do wear out; see if you see if the transmitter opto through a cell phone camera; it should be glowing purple when viewed through a camera.

I just replaced the opotos with brand new ones and still nothing, if I knew how to use a multi meter I would check to see if I am getting power at the optos because I sense that I am not.

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