Quoted from lordloss:Bring in a boxed copy of toon struck
I do got one sealed I could bring. Hmmmmm
Quoted from lordloss:Bring in a boxed copy of toon struck
I do got one sealed I could bring. Hmmmmm
Quoted from JohnnyPhantom:I do got one sealed I could bring. Hmmmmm
Pinball machines come and go, the people who have copies of toonstruck tend to keep those forever.
Quoted from whitey:Great game !
Man you got the perfect 3 pins. It has taken me a number of years to achieve the same. I added TAF a month ago and I am now in the club.
Quoted from drummermike:DI is a good game. I have played it a few times. I am waiting for my Houdini to be built that is more like the pins I have now. TAF and TZ are classic! LOTR is my favorite and TZ is close to the top of my list.
I sold my LOTR LE to fund IJ. I miss it but I really like IJ a lot. It was a good trade. TZ is my second favorite. I owned it early on and sold it. I regretted it so I bought it back a year ago. I am slowly adding mods and LEDs. TZ looks awesome in LEDs.
The super pins are great! I am keeping all my pins. I have put a lot of time and work in them. They are in real nice condition. FH has very small playfield wear though. I went 100% LED in all mine. The colors are so much better now. I got a 2nd SW. That is the only one I would not miss. Should have done more research before my early purchases.
I recently got a nice TAF and I ordered all the parts for flipper rebuild (even though only 1 switch was broken)
I noticed the flippers felt a bit too strong and upon checking it seems like all the coils are higher powered than original (3 lowers are 1129). I'm wondering why they would have put in higher values?
When I got the machine I had to take off the head to transport. Before reconnecting the cables in the head I cleaned all board contacts, some of which were oxidized. Could dirty contacts have created a condition where a previous owner felt they needed to install higher value coils?
Is there any difference in the after market coils - or suggestions for the best place to order?
Here is a cool paint job I did on an old thing hand from a customer. I add realism , including age spots, veins , freckles and shadowing. Special attention given to the fingernails to make even more creepy , perfect for Halloween. These and other neat-O mods can be found at www.modfatherpinball.com
Joined the club about 18 months ago after dreaming of doing so my entire adult life! Lots of small (reversible) mods done so far, including pretty much everything Lee makes (awesome products!) and upgraded speakers. Lots planned for the future (PinStadium lighting, ColorDMD, etc)...
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Joined the club about 18 months ago after dreaming of doing so my entire adult life! Lots of small (reversible) mods done so far, including pretty much everything Lee makes (awesome products!) and upgraded speakers. Lots planned for the future (PinStadium lighting, ColorDMD, etc)...
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Last Halloween:
Quoted from mrgregb123:I feel bad guys. When I originally posted asking for interest, only 3 or 4 people said anything. So I ordered 5. I got about 12 PMs today from people who didn't originally show interest. Bummer....I would have ordered more if I knew. Very sorry to anyone that missed the initial msg.
I'm going to order some of the "unobtainable bookcase rubber pads." Shipping to the U.S. is $24.35 whether I order 1 or 10. Who wants one?
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/rubber-bumper-pads-3-3-x-1-23-used-on-taf/
I could use a bookcase rubber or 2. Currently I have 2 monopoly bank pads stuck together, seems to get the job done. But rather have the right stuff
Quoted from SeaLawyer:I'm going to order some of the "unobtainable bookcase rubber pads." Shipping to the U.S. is $24.35 whether I order 1 or 10. Who wants one?
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/rubber-bumper-pads-3-3-x-1-23-used-on-taf/
Thanks Man,
PM sent .
Ok, so far I have 2 for Johnny Phantom, 2 for golfingdad1, and 1 for poffenroth. I messaged mrgregb123 to find out who else missed out on his group buy, but haven't heard back from him yet. It looks like the thread isn't getting a ton of traffic, so I'll probably wait until early next week before placing the order.
The pads are $3.96 each, plus the shipping to me cost of $24.35 divided by the number of pads, plus the cost of shipping from me to you. If we go over 12, shipping to me jumps to $38.37, but I'm ordering a couple other things as well just for me, so I'll first calculate the shipping cost just for the pads. It should go without saying, but I'm not going to charge anyone a penny over what it actually costs me.
They also have a square version and a round plug version, if anyone is interested in those.
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/square-pad-blue-rubber/
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/rubber-bumper-pad-plug/
It also looks like this guy is the only supplier with a Thing box base & cover in stock. Price isn't bad, so I'll be picking one.
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/addams-family-thing-box-base-cover/
Quoted from AlexSMendes:All new black legs.
Alex, where did you get those AWESOME dust covers??
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Alex, where did you get those AWESOME dust covers??
Customized beach towels!
So my lower left GI lights were out. F110 fuse was fine. Wiggled the J120 connector a little and they came on dimly, but were flickering. Disconnected the connector a couple of times and then reseated, and the lights are no longer flickering, but definitely dimmer on the left side. Faulty connector?
Quoted from SeaLawyer:So my lower left GI lights were out. F110 fuse was fine. Wiggled the J120 connector a little and they came on dimly, but were flickering. Disconnected the connector a couple of times and then reseated, and the lights are no longer flickering, but definitely dimmer on the left side. Faulty connector?
Probably oxidation - after 25 years the metal gets corroded/oxidised and just doesn't connect as well as it used to. This is why a lot of guides recommend replacing connectors and pins, especially if you have noticeable issues or resets. You can try a deoxidiser spray - I always try that first but I am not sure how well they actually work.
Great Halloween costume btw! And great selection on pins!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:You can try a deoxidiser spray - I always try that first but I am not sure how well they actually work.
Great Halloween costume btw! And great selection on pins!
Hahaha! Thanks!
Quoted from SeaLawyer:So my lower left GI lights were out. F110 fuse was fine. Wiggled the J120 connector a little and they came on dimly, but were flickering. Disconnected the connector a couple of times and then reseated, and the lights are no longer flickering, but definitely dimmer on the left side. Faulty connector?
You could try looking for a solder joint around the pin on the board. Sometimes a crack around the pin can cause a drop in voltage.
Quoted from fiberdude120:You could try looking for a solder joint around the pin on the board. Sometimes a crack around the pin can cause a drop in voltage.
Thanks, I’ll look for that too. The white/brown wire at the bulb end has solid solder connections, but maybe there’s still a crack at the pin. I’m thinking oxidation is the most likely culprit, since removing the plug and reseating it several times definitely helped. The more I did it, the better it got, so there was definitely some reduction of oxidation through friction. DeoxIT spray will be here today. If that doesn’t cure it completely, I’ll look for other sources of possible voltage drop. If the pins are in good shape, I guess I’ll replace the connector next.
Quoted from Vdrums:What's the purpose of the blue bookcase pad?
Presumably, it’s to prevent the bookcase from cracking from repeated hard ball strikes... same for at the end of the ramp, before it drops to the upper left flipper.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Probably oxidation - after 25 years the metal gets corroded/oxidised and just doesn't connect as well as it used to. This is why a lot of guides recommend replacing connectors and pins, especially if you have noticeable issues or resets. You can try a deoxidiser spray - I always try that first but I am not sure how well they actually work.
I’m happy to report that the DeoxIT spray I got off Amazon worked perfectly. Shot the pins and the connector twice and let dry, per the instructions, and now the left lights are just as bright as the right, with zero flicker! Thanks, Rdoyle1978!
Ok, last call for the impossible-to-find blue pads. I'll place the order tomorrow.
Here's who I have so far:
Bookcase pad:
Johnny Phantom - 2 (if you only want one, let me know)
golfingdad1 - 1
poffenroth - 1
LitzDoc - 1 or 2 (if I don't hear back from you before the order, I'll just order you 1)
Square pad (like at the end of the ramp):
golfingdad1 - 2
Anyone else want a square pad? I'll be swapping my ramp for a clear one, so I'm definitely getting a square pad or two for me.
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/square-pad-blue-rubber/
Updating the list here, for ease of reference:
Bookcase pad:
Johnny Phantom - 2
golfingdad1 - 1
poffenroth - 1
LitzDoc - 2
ForceFlow - 1
BR80 - 1
pinballinreno - 2
jimmyb - 1
Square pad (like at the end of the ramp):
golfingdad1 - 2
ForceFlow - 3
LitzDoc - 2
pinballinreno - 2
Quoted from LitzDoc:I will take one square pad too please. Thanks
List updated. Will place the order tomorrow.
Quoted from SeaLawyer:List updated. Will place the order tomorrow.
I need 2 blue square ramp pads. thanks
Quoted from LitzDoc:I need 2 blue square ramp pads. thanks
Ok, updated the list. I did find the square pads elsewhere for $.95, as opposed to $1.40.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=689
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6629
Not a massive difference, but if anyone is planning to order from Pinball Life or Marco Specialties and wants to get the square pads from them instead, let me know. At current numbers, the square pads don't add anything to the shipping cost.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I would like 2 of the square pads and 2 of the bookcase pads please if it isnt too late.
List updated.
Hey there. Recently bought a TAF table for our game room. I’m curious what the “Install 5-Ball” option does other than change some minor behaviors. Can you actually load two more balls and have 5 ball multi ball? It seems to be different than simply 5 balls per game, which is another setting. The manual doesn’t go into too much detail. Thanks.
Quoted from jzdziarski:Hey there. Recently bought a TAF table for our game room. I’m curious what the “Install 5-Ball” option does other than change some minor behaviors. Can you actually load two more balls and have 5 ball multi ball? It seems to be different than simply 5 balls per game, which is another setting. The manual doesn’t go into too much detail. Thanks.
No, its a 3 ball game. Trough only registers 3 balls. 5-ball , 3 -ball is how many balls played during game.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:No, its a 3 ball game. Trough only registers 3 balls. 5-ball , 3 -ball is how many balls played during game.
Thanks, but why would they put 5 balls per game in two different places and call it two different things? It's under A.01 ("Balls Per Game") and U.06 ("Install 5 Ball"). The table in the manual also shows "Install 5-Ball" "Balls Per Game" is 3, which doesn't make any sense to me if that's the case.
Quoted from jzdziarski:U.06 ("Install 5 Ball").
The operations manual page 1-23 says that just changes settings to be appropriate with a 5 balls/game. I assume that changes some of the other default settings that make it harder to get to multiball, etc. (a quick way to change a bunch of difficulty settings at once)
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Last Halloween:
From Halloween 2014. My brother, my wife and me.
1376559_10205518888120004_371973560648984801_n (resized).jpg
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