(Topic ID: 78709)

The Addams Family Club (TAF) | Members & Fans Welcome


By mima

5 years ago



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There are 3075 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 62.
#901 2 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Anybody have a clue on this one? I'm missing the linkage between these two parts. Are these available?
Here's a pic without the opto board and you can see the piece connecting the two metal plates. Rotated picture of mine below it for comparison.
I think I may have found the piece inside the game but not sure how to secure it - I think I'm looking for a small screw type thingee. It's in there somewhere...I hope!

Is that the thing motor? Did it stop working?

#902 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Is that the thing motor? Did it stop working?

The motor works, but Thing won't move because the linkage between the motor and the think cam is missing - you can clearly see the missing part on mine compared to the other photo of complete unit from Marco.

#903 2 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

I haven't really looked it up yet, but I'll ask here in case anybody knows off the top of their head:
Is there a definite or factory correct color arrangement/order to the pop bumpers?
I know on other titles like TZ, they belong in a certain order, but since the pops have nothing to do with the skill shot on TAF, I don't have a reference point. I ask because when I go to rebuild the pops, I've got matching skirt colors to go with them that I'm thinking of using. I'd hate to have one or more colors out of order!

All amber! That's the way... aha, aha... I like it... aha, aha!

#904 2 years ago

Photo for Kornfreak.
Here is the switch I am referring to sir.

image_(resized).jpeg

#905 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Photo for Kornfreak.
Here is the switch I am referring to sir.

Oh yes!! I remeber that one! Ok can you please tell me what I'm supposed to check on this switch? Just to rule it out as a possible cause for the delay of the ball between thing to shooter lane. Happens very rarely but it does happen. Thanks for the picture, that was very nice of you.

#906 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Oh yes!! I remeber that one! Ok can you please tell me what I'm supposed to check on this switch? Just to rule it out as a possible cause for the delay of the ball between thing to shooter lane. Happens very rarely but it does happen. Thanks for the picture, that was very nice of you.

1. Make sure the green wire is plugged in.
2. Put the game in switch test and see if the switch works when activated by hand.
3. I would check all the switches that the ball hits after being dropped by Thing while in the switch test.
You may have a faulty one.

#907 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

1. Make sure the green wire is plugged in.
2. Put the game in switch test and see if the switch works when activated by hand.
3. I would check all the switches that the ball hits after being dropped by Thing while in the switch test.
You may have a faulty one.

Perfect! Thank you sir! I'll report any findings!

#908 2 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Anybody have a clue on this one? My Thing hand won't move because I'm missing the linkage between these two parts (moving motor plate and the Thing hand camshaft). Are these available?
Here's a pic without the opto board and you can see the piece connecting the two metal plates. Rotated picture of mine below it for comparison.
I think I may have found the piece inside the game but not sure how to secure it - I think I'm looking for a small screw type thingee. It's in there somewhere...I hope!

Does this help? Looks like the screw is either 6/32, or 1/4-20. Most machine screws used on TAF are 6/32, 8/32, 10/32, or 1/4-20 of varying lengths. Most hardware stores carry them and if they're too long buy the bolt cutting wire strippers that cut 6-/32 to 10/32.pasted_image_(resized).png

#909 2 years ago
Quoted from Jesterfunhouse:

Not the best picture but this the proper alignment
Red
Clear (Altered)
Blue
yellow
Orange (Amber)

Looks like my red and blue are switched, then.

Can anyone else confirm this arrangement?

#910 2 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Can anyone else confirm this arrangement?

Matches mine

IMG_3765_(resized).jpg

#911 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

All amber! That's the way... aha, aha... I like it... aha, aha!

20160218_190620_(resized).jpg

#912 2 years ago

I recently installed a new playfield in a TAF for a guy who had all red bumper caps, he liked I though!

IMGP3962_(resized).JPG

#913 2 years ago

Ok guys reporting back on one of my issues. I replaced every single part on the shooter rod including a stronger spring ect. My problem of weak plunges did not go away. Upon closer inspection I noticed the metal tabs on the shooter lane where the ball sits on are not leveled, see picture. On top of the tabs not leveled, The shooter rod is too high and is not hitting the ball squarely in the center. The playfield tabs are sitting nicely and the machine is completely leveled. Anybody know what I can do to fix this issue? Thanks!

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

#914 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok guys reporting back on one of my issues. I replaced every single part on the shooter rod including a stronger spring ect. My problem of weak plunges did not go away. Upon closer inspection I noticed the metal tabs on the shooter lane where the ball sits on are not leveled, see picture. On top of the tabs not leveled, The shooter rod is too high and is not hitting the ball squarely in the center. The playfield tabs are sitting nicely and the machine is completely leveled. Anybody know what I can do to fix this issue? Thanks!

Everything has to be taken off (apron, skill shot meter etc.)
I had to tweak things quite a bit to get the shooter rod to hit the ball squarely.
Shooter rod assembly,casting can be moved around a bit (loosen the 3 nuts). On one game I had to file out the wooden triangular cut-out for the shooter assembly in order to get it exact.

Also look at the hooks that support the PF in the front and see of you can loosen and get the PF to move where you want it.

Its not too bad to get it all aligned, just tweak, nudge, bend and adjust whatever seems to be the problem.

#915 2 years ago

If that's where the pinball normally comes to rest it is sitting too far to the right in the lane. Check the switch and see if the wire is too high and to the left, thus pushing the pinball to the right.

#916 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Everything has to be taken off (apron, skill shot meter etc.)
I had to tweak things quite a bit to get the shooter rod to hit the ball squarely.
Shooter rod assembly,casting can be moved around a bit (loosen the 3 nuts). On one game I had to file out the wooden triangular cut-out for the shooter assembly in order to get it exact.
Also look at the hooks that support the PF in the front and see of you can loosen and get the PF to move where you want it.
Its not too bad to get it all aligned, just tweak, nudge, bend and adjust whatever seems to be the problem.

Can I just maybe bend those tabs a bit? All very good suggestions. Thank you very very much!

#917 2 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

If that's where the pinball normally comes to rest it is sitting too far to the right in the lane. Check the switch and see if the wire is too high and to the left, thus pushing the pinball to the right.

Will do, thanks for the suggestion!

#918 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Can I just maybe bend those tabs a bit? All very good suggestions. Thank you very very much!

Absolutely, if it works do it. As long as the shooter tip is squarely centered on the ball.

#919 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Everything has to be taken off (apron, skill shot meter etc.)
I had to tweak things quite a bit to get the shooter rod to hit the ball squarely.
Shooter rod assembly,casting can be moved around a bit (loosen the 3 nuts). On one game I had to file out the wooden triangular cut-out for the shooter assembly in order to get it exact.
Also look at the hooks that support the PF in the front and see of you can loosen and get the PF to move where you want it.
Its not too bad to get it all aligned, just tweak, nudge, bend and adjust whatever seems to be the problem.

Ok once I remove the apron and meter, do I bend them some?

Already tweaked the rod assembly, that didn't help.

I'm thinking I can sand the triangle hole like you suggest. What did you use to sand it? How much did you sand it? Do you by any chance take pictures of it?

Thanks!

#920 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok once I remove the apron and meter, do I bend them some?
Already tweaked the rod assembly, that didn't help.
I'm thinking I can sand the triangle hole like you suggest. What did you use to sand it? How much did you sand it? Do you by any chance take pictures of it?
Thanks!

Before modifying the cabinet try tweaking the front PF supports to get another 1/16" of lateral play.
I used a rattail file and moved the shooter assembly about 1/8".
TAF is a tight fit as far as the shooter getting centered properly, especially if a repro PF was installed. The clearances are super tight.
On a lot of games the shooter tip drags on the skill shot meter, you can see the wear on he rubber.
Also inspect the rear PF guides/supports and see how it sits. If its crooked in the rear it will be crooked in the front.
Take a general look at how the PF sits in the cabinet it should be fairly square and centered for the most part.

But like I said before with a little tweaking you can get it just right.

#921 2 years ago

I had a Funhouse that was off 1/4" and kept moving around during game play. It turned out to be the pivot bushing was worn out completely on both sides and the PF was just loose and flopping around.

#922 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I had a Funhouse that was off 1/4" and kept moving around during game play. It turned out to be the pivot bushing was worn out completely on both sides and the PF was just loose and flopping around.

The pivot bushing....are those the brackets where the PF sits and pivots on? If I sand the hole, will I ruin the decal art work?

All great suggestions...will follow your guidance and report back! Thanks!

#923 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

The pivot bushing....are those the brackets where the PF sits and pivots on? If I sand the hole, will I ruin the decal art work?
All great suggestions...will follow your guidance and report back! Thanks!

If you move he shooter assembly, you might have to touch-up around it with a black paint pencil or a sharpie in a pinch.
A line where the shooter was originally may appear but its not noticeable for the most part
It looks like you only need 1/8" to make up.
After tweaking everything you might only need to file 1/16" or none at all.

#924 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

If you move he shooter assembly, you might have to touch-up around it with a black paint pencil or a sharpie in a pinch.
It looks like you only need 1/8" to make up.
After tweaking everything you might only need to file 1/16" or less.
A line where the shooter was originally may appear but its not noticeable for the most part

Ok got it. The pivot bushings is the baracket(s) where the PF sits and pivots on correct?

#925 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok got it. The pivot bushings is the baracket(s) where the PF sits and pivots on correct?

Yes, but I think they only come into play of they are super worn out or broken. On these 20 year old games, everything is showing signs of wear.
Loose/worn mounts cause the PF to sit at crooked or a crosswise angle in the cabinet but that can be compensated for with the leg levelers.
I have seen a couple games where a screw was inserted in the lockdown bar slot where the front hanger goes to keep the PF centered.

#926 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes, but I think they only come into play of they are super worn out or broken.

Yeah, I will inspect everything you suggested and report back after I get off work

On the issue with the thing box, when I lifted the PF last night I could hear something like maybe a bulb or screw loose and moving around in there. Maybe that is the cause of my issue? I will remove the box and inspect and report back. Thanks!

#927 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok got it. The pivot bushings is the baracket(s) where the PF sits and pivots on correct?

The part of the apron the ball is resting on is separate from the main apron. Remove the apron and you'll see its held in place by two screws. Loosen them and move it as far to the right as you can. There is some play. As others have said, adjust the two fingers on that piece as well, until the ball is centered in the shooter lane.

#928 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

The part of the apron the ball is resting on is separate from the main apron. Remove the apron and you'll see its held in place by two screws. Loosen them and move it as far to the right as you can. There is some play. As others have said, adjust the two fingers on that piece as well, until the ball is centered in the shooter lane.

This is great info! I was under the impression the apron and the meter where one piece. Nice to know they are not. Thank you sir! I will let you guys know the results. You guys rock!!!

#929 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Yeah, I will inspect everything you suggested and report back after I get off work
On the issue with the thing box, when I lifted the PF last night I could hear something like maybe a bulb or screw loose and moving around in there. Maybe that is the cause of my issue? I will remove the box and inspect and report back. Thanks!

Subways, PF boxes, scoops, you name it generally have broken rubbers, bulbs, screws and bits of broken off wire gates in them.
I have even pulled out complete cherry switches, coins/tokens and even a shirt button.
Its amazing what you find in games especially heavily routed ones.

My Vendo 44 Coke machine had a full coin box filled the mercury head dimes and buffalo nickels from the early 50's. The key was missing and nobody bothered to open it. I bought it "as-is" and it worked perfectly, still running today.

#930 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Subways, PF boxes, scoops, you name it generally have broken rubbers, bulbs, screws and bits of broken off wire gates in them.
I have even pulled out complete cherry switches, coins/tokens and even a shirt button.
Its amazing what you find in games especially heavily routed ones.
My Vendo 44 Coke machine had a full coin box filled the mercury head dimes and buffalo nickels from the early 50's. The key was missing and nobody bothered to open it. I bought it "as-is" and it worked perfectly, still running today.

Wow! Cool story!

#931 2 years ago

As somewhat of a pinball newbie, I'm hoping you fine folks can help me diagnose and fix an issue with my Addams.

The left side of my GI lights went out while I was installing (with the machine off) a trough lighting kit (led strip with alligator clips). I noticed the 5 amp fuse (the lower left one) blew so I replaced it hoping that would solve the issue but it did not. I've checked the wiring harness at J-120 (the schematic says that's the one that controls the left GI string). I also checked the voltage at the new fuse and I'm getting about 7.5 volts.

Not sure what else to look for or check. I have a multimeter, but not sure how to use it to help diagnose this issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Perhaps the wire for the trough LED strip was touching metal when I turned the machine on? I have since removed the led strip.

Thanks!

image_(resized).jpeg

#932 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

As somewhat of a pinball newbie, I'm hoping you fine folks can help me diagnose and fix an issue with my Addams.
The left side of my GI lights went out while I was installing (with the machine off) a trough lighting kit (led strip with alligator clips). I noticed the 5 amp fuse (the lower left one) blew so I replaced it hoping that would solve the issue but it did not. I've checked the wiring harness at J-120 (the schematic says that's the one that controls the left GI string). I also checked the voltage at the new fuse and I'm getting about 7.5 volts.
Not sure what else to look for or check. I have a multimeter, but not sure how to use it to help diagnose this issue.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Perhaps the wire for the trough LED strip was touching metal when I turned the machine on? I have since removed the led strip.
Thanks!

You may want to take a fine grit sand paper and clean the end caps on all of those fuses while you are in there.
With that much build up it can cause intermittent connection problems.
Or just replace them entirely if that is easier.
Also lets see a photo of J120 connector. It may be the connection.
The ones in the photo look good.

#933 2 years ago
Quoted from vilant:

Does this help? Looks like the screw is either 6/32, or 1/4-20. Most machine screws used on TAF are 6/32, 8/32, 10/32, or 1/4-20 of varying lengths. Most hardware stores carry them and if they're too long buy the bolt cutting wire strippers that cut 6-/32 to 10/32.

I found the screw and the linkage inside the cabinet so I was all set. Put the unit back together, replaced an opto, back in business. At one point the magnet wasn't working either. I ended up having to take the whole Thing apart like 5 times before I ironed out all the bugs but it's working great now.

Steve Young at PBR has the parts to rebuild this unit. He rebuilds many of them (you can also send your Thing to him if you need to).

#934 2 years ago

Problem fixed! Turns out that one of the other fuses was also blown but not as visually obvious. Popped a new fuse in that one as well and it's good to go!

#935 2 years ago

Guys,

My top box lights behind the translite all work but I noticed I only have one bulb that blinks (the top left one with the red window). That is the only one that blinks. How many bulbs are supposed to blink in the top box? Why do I only have this one bulb blink? All the other bulbs work perfectly in the top box, but the ones that are supposed to blink, don't blink at all, they just stay on. Am I supposed to have a special bulb for the areas that are supposed to blink? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

#936 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Guys,
My top box lights behind the translite all work but I noticed I only have one bulb that blinks (the top left one with the red window). That is the only one that blinks. How many bulbs are supposed to blink in the top box? Why do I only have this one bulb blink? All the other bulbs work perfectly in the top box, but the ones that are supposed to blink, don't blink at all, they just stay on. Am I supposed to have a special bulb for the areas that are supposed to blink? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

The backbox originally had 7 of the 455 blinker bulbs.
The 455 blinker is not a managed flasher and just blinks randomly.

In the link below from the IPDB, the bulbs that are unlit are the 455 blinkers.
Sadly the 455 blinkers are no longer in manufacture. Regular bulbs were put in to replace the blinkers as they wore out.

455 blinkers do exist but the supply is very limited and they can be very expensive.

One can however upgrade the sockets to the wedge style and use the newer 545 blinkers in the same circuit.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=32946&zoom=1

You can also replace the missing blinkers with newer blinking LED lights.
But these seem a little bright to me and dont have the side illumination that an incandescent bulb does.
This leads to the odd polka-dot pattern on some back glasses from an LED upgrade.

#937 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Guys,
My top box lights behind the translite all work but I noticed I only have one bulb that blinks (the top left one with the red window). That is the only one that blinks. How many bulbs are supposed to blink in the top box? Why do I only have this one bulb blink? All the other bulbs work perfectly in the top box, but the ones that are supposed to blink, don't blink at all, they just stay on. Am I supposed to have a special bulb for the areas that are supposed to blink? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Cointaker sells LED replacements that work great. I have used them on all the addams I have worked on. I think Comet sells LED replacements also but here the link for Cointaker.

http://cointaker.com/t/blinkers

#938 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The backbox originally had 7 of the 455 blinker bulbs.
The 455 blinker is not a managed flasher and just blinks randomly.
In the link below from the IPDB, the bulbs that are unlit are the 455 blinkers.
Sadly the 455 blinkers are no longer in manufacture. Regular bulbs were put in to replace the blinkers as they wore out.
455 blinkers do exist but the supply is very limited and they can be very expensive.
One can however upgrade the sockets to the wedge style and use the newer 545 blinkers in the same circuit.
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=32946&zoom=1

You can also get them from Terry at Pinball Life.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=30

#939 2 years ago

^^^^^^^^^^^^^Like he said !, thanks Bryan.

#940 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The backbox originally had 7 of the 455 blinker bulbs.
The 455 blinker is not a managed flasher and just blinks randomly.
In the link below from the IPDB, the bulbs that are unlit are the 455 blinkers.
Sadly the 455 blinkers are no longer in manufacture. Regular bulbs were put in to replace the blinkers as they wore out.
455 blinkers do exist but the supply is very limited and they can be very expensive.
One can however upgrade the sockets to the wedge style and use the newer 545 blinkers in the same circuit.
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=32946&zoom=1
You can also replace the missing blinkers with newer blinking LED lights.
But these seem a little bright to me and dont have the side illumination that an incandescent bulb does.
This leads to the odd polka-dot pattern on some back glasses from an LED upgrade.

Wow! So its just the bulb! I never would have guessed! I thought I was in for something much more difficult! Can I just replace them all with Frosted # 44 LEDs? Will these LEDs blink? Thanks!!!

#941 2 years ago
Quoted from Jesterfunhouse:

Cointaker sells LED replacements that work great. I have used them on all the addams I have worked on. I think Comet sells LED replacements also but here the link for Cointaker.
http://cointaker.com/t/blinkers

Thanks so much!!!

#942 2 years ago

Thank you!!!

#943 2 years ago

Do I have to replace the socket if I install LEDs?

#944 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Do I have to replace the socket if I install LEDs?

Get the 455 from Terry they will look the best.
Unless there is a side illuminating LED that is suitable for this application

#945 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Do I have to replace the socket if I install LEDs?

Nope they are plug and play. Just pop'em in and they work just like regular blinker bulbs!

#946 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Do I have to replace the socket if I install LEDs?

No.

Wow. 3 answers within 10 seconds of each other.
New record. lol

#947 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

No.
Wow. 3 answers within 10 seconds of each other.
New record. lol

LOL, thanks!

#948 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Get the 455 from Terry they will look the best.
Unless there is a side illuminating LED that is suitable for this application

My question is: Is a 44 bulb comatible with the 455 socket?

#949 2 years ago
Quoted from Jesterfunhouse:

Nope they are plug and play. Just pop'em in and they work just like regular blinker bulbs!

Thanks!

#950 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

My question is: Is a 44 bulb comatible with the 455 socket?

Yes. The 44 won't blink though.

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