When a ball enters the Electric Chair drain, the kicker sometimes does not activate. The ball will sit there until the game goes through the "Ball Search" and activates all the solenoids, and then will kick out.
Would this be a defective switch, or a board issue?

When "The Power" is lit, the magnets do not operate. How would I troubleshoot this issue?

Sounds like a switch not registering. Always start simple and obvious. Check to see if the ball activates the switch.

Edit: you just added another issue in the same area of the playfield, so other issues are suspect. I’m going to bow out now as I don’t have experience with TAF magnets. I’m thinking there’s gotta be a test for them somewhere in the menu?

I would definitely check the switch on this. Could be a loose wire or just needs a simple adjustment.

Try testing the magnets in test mode. If they definitely don’t work, the first place to look is at the 5A slo blow fuse under the playfield near the High-Power PCB.

If you change the fuse but that keeps blowing, I’d try the magnets without the high power board connected to see if the fuse blows again. If it doesn’t, then I’d guess the problem is on the high power board. Probably a bad diode(s).
If it pops again even when the board is disconnected, then the issue is being caused elsewhere.

Good info. Many thanks for the assistance.

If you are blowing fuses on the magnets.

Its mostly a bad tip36 on the magnet board or a shorted magnet.

It can also be a problem on the fliptronics board.

So here's the update.
The 5A S/B fuse was blown. I replaced it and unplugged the magnets and the fuse did not blow. I then plugged in each magnet individually and could hear 2 of them energize, but one did not.
Powered off, plugged in all magnets and powered on. I can hear the magnets energizing and in 10 seconds the fuse blows.
Powered off, replaced fuse, and unplugged J1 and J2 on the High Power board, powered on and fuse did not blow.

Is this a board issue?

IMG_4049 (resized).jpg

You got some bad transistors.

If magnet stays locked on it will burn your playfield.

LTG : )

https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-af-magnet-driver.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/fuse-kit-for-the-addams-family-the-power-magnets.html

LTG : )

Go with the NVRAM board looks so much better

I agree with Lloyd, this magnet board is what you want. I wouldnt bother with the old fuse kit that PBL sells, it was good for the moment 15 years a go, but we can do much better today.

Just buy the weebly board and magnet burn is mostly a thing of the past.

The new replacement magnets that Marco sells offer an additional level of protection as they have a thermister in them.

New type magnets and this board is a rock solid repair.

You dont want to burn your playfield.

Very many of them have been ruined from magnet burn.

https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-af-magnet-driver.html

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9247

I recommend these 2 fixes for EVERY SINGLE TAF out there.

Not only better but 2 layers of fuses.

3 Fuses on the magnet board plus the fuses on the fliptronics board.

Still however the new style magnets are a MUST have.

Yup! That’s what I did got the new board and the Marco magnets

Just checked his site, the board is sold out. I reached out to him to see when they will be available. I'll update this forum when I hear.
Many thanks for the help!

I’ve been working on my TAF restoration for the past 6 months which I’m now nearly finished with.
For me, I find the game quite dark to play even with leds installed, so my plan was to install Pinstadiums to help light it up a bit more.

I’m not to keen on having to pull them off every time I need to lift the playfield so I thought I try and integrate the light bars into the sides of the cabinet itself.

I cut a groove into sides and added a 45 degree bevel to the lower edge so that more light could hit the playfield.
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I removed enough material so that the light bars would sit flush with the sides of the cabinet. I finally got round to actually installing them at the weekend and they worked out great.
When looking down the sides from the top view, you can’t see them.
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I hadn’t installed the new playfield at this stage but I ran a quick test to make sure the concept would work and they seem to shine enough light.
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I’ve now got the new playfield fitted but I just need to connect them up to the app and set the colour I want, which will probably be white. Hopefully then I’ll be able to see if they make a difference.

I never noticed TAF being that dark before but hear a lot of people saying it lately. Is it because more of the modern games are much brighter and I am only really used to 90s era WPC games

I've got to buy more TIP36C and/or boards. I forget which I ran out of. Probably a couple weeks. I should probably look into updating this board. Not a fan of mounting the heatsinks and hand soldering this one which is why i've been kind of slow to restock it.

These boards get covered in coil dust over a lot of play/years. I think that contributes to the failing from arc over. I've seen some just totally caked in a layer of it.

I am not a fan of pinstadiums.

I prefer the look of spot lamps placed in meaningful locations instead.

But, they are popular to "shotgun" lighting issues.

For me, they put in too much light and upset the balance of lighting and wash out the colors in the game in a lot of cases.

They are not perfect by any means, but they are way over priced for what they are.

I also HATE the way you have to pull them off to raise the playfield. This alone annoys me enough to pull them out and throw them in the garbage, as I have done.

Spot lamps discreetly put, look better in my opinion.

You can put light where you need it exactly and no more.

Do you have any recommendations where on a TAF to put them As you probably saw in some of my other posts I finally warmed up to the idea of slight modifications and am now curious

If @playdium's transistors on his magnet board went bad, shouldn't he be able to just replace them and be good to go? Just in case the replacement board from barakandi won't be ready for a while.

Finally got back in the club after 10 years of regret from selling my first one! I'll have to rework a few things from previous owners restore job but It's a good start! Just great to have her back!

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Yes that would work fine but, I would hate knowing that there is an elevated risk of magnet burn just waiting. At least with the board or the in-line fuses you have a safety net

Yeah, I’m the same with Pinstadiums, In that I can’t stand keep taking them off to left the playfield. When I first picked up my Addams, it was just way to dark for me.

Spots do work well. I fitted a couple of spots on my T2 and it mage a massive difference.

There’s not enough GI bulbs on TAF imo so I thought I’d give them a go on this game. When I get it hooked up, I plan to lower the brightness a little, but I do want the light to pick out the colours of the artwork, as I’ve got a Kruzman PF going in.

Personally, I don’t think there was enough GI bulbs fitted on the game originally, when I compare it to the other 90s games in my collection.

I’ve not seen them on an Addams but I would guess above the sling shots aimed at the centre of the PF and one by the swamp directed at the bookcase.

I have one mounted on the right side of the chair aimed at the left side of the bookcase, it lights up the dark area perfectly imo without obstructing much if any view. I’ll try taking a pic later…

I had 6 installed on my last TAF on black hex standoffs.

A couple on each sling and one each in a couple other areas.

I used the black shrouds (one piece) like here, but I just bought the shroud part s not the kits:

https://www.pinballbulbs.com/products/universal-double-pinball-spotlight-kit

I'm thinking you meant to quote someone else? I was just chiming in that it's great to finally be back in the club, ha........but I do have the magnet board as well! Gotta have it imo

Ha yes I did, the post above you. Oops I’ll correct now

PinStadiums on a TAF take it to a whole new level, really make it a much brighter and easier to see, looks cool too.

I’m a diy stadium lighting guy myself. Just picked up the parts to build a set. It’s easy. I’ve tried the additional spotlight approach on games. It’s not for me. I feel that adding spots clutters the playfield. Spots also lack customization of light temperature and intensity. To each their own.

Hi, both lower flippers are weak, left is weaker than right. What should I check first? Is there a test I can do find out what the problem is? Flippers both work but weak. Upper flippers seem ok. Thanks

On regular (not gold version) games, clean and file the cabinet switches, they get corroded from arcing. If you dont have a points file, run 220 black sandpaper thru the contacts. They are tungsten contacts on the cab switches.

Check the coils solder lugs for a cracked joint or broken or fallen off wire.

Clean the coil sleeves, check the plungers and links for wear.

Check the operation and gap of the EOS switches.

If there ever was a game that should have dark playfield, it's TAF

I tend to agree, It supposed to be gloomy, not a bright sunny day...

Thank you. I will look into cabinet switches first. Thank you.

Do the flipper bats have a tiny bit of up and down play ( not back and forth ) ?

Remove the coil stop, slide coil off and let hang. Feel the end of the plunger - mushroomed or sharp edge ? Coil stop the plunger hits, is it worn to a cup shape ?
The linkage between plunger and pawl, worn, sloppy, elongated holes ?

If so time for a flipper rebuild. New coil sleeve, new coil stop, new plunger assembly.

LTG : )

I agree, but I literally can’t play it at night. My room is not super bright. Plus, it’s fun sometimes to play in a totally dark room.

Another in agreement...however, I like the single lamp I've added to highlight the vault / thing shots. Still keeps the dark feel imo.

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Looks pretty good!

Transparent or translucent pop bumper bodies would give just the perfect amount of illumination to the graveyard, with 11 LED disc lights.

Are you sure the cabinet switches are tungsten ones?
TAF is fliptronics 1-so I wonder they still used tungsten switches in the cabinet instead of gold plated contacts

Gold plated. Low voltage, low current switches there.

You know, its hard to say.

They are supposed to be gold, but mine had tungsten switches on it.

Its possible that an operator put the wrong ones in.

I replaced them with opto boards.

Hi. New to to the club just got mine still solid cabinet but it will need playfield restoration or new playfield. Those new playfields to whoever installed new in their game. Are they good ? Or what do you recommend? Thank you.

The CPR playfields are the best ones as far as remakes go even they have a flaw or two that can be made perfect. They are out of stock but I know they are floating around out there. If you do get one I recommend sending to one of the playfield restorers out there to do slight correction as well as a nice clearcoat

3 years after installing a Mirco playfield it is still going strong with no cracks or flaws, so I am happy.

Is any restorer in the northeast?

None that I know of unfortunately. Ron Kruzman kruzman on here is one of the best around he is based out of MI and does phenomenal work ( I have two of his playfields) he mainly does corrections and clearcoats on NOS and reproductions he stopped doing restos a few years ago. He packs them in a crate that he makes specifically for playfields which is essentially bomb proof. If you can find a nice repro shoot him a PM work out the details with him and have the person mail it to him to save on shipping.

Ty