That may explain it, I had two of the IR Leds that had fallen off over time, they have been replaced so with a camera I can see all four !R lights are on, in testing three of the for receivers seem to work, I wonder if one is intermittent and is somehow doing a false positive, I guess the way to tell is put the game into switch test and just sit and watch to see if the opto switch close on its own.

I also have an issue with Thing Flips opto as well, which is intermittent, I replaced the receiver all was working and now its stopped working again, could these be related ? or two separate issues ?

I posted this in the restoration section but also figured I throw this on here since it’s a TAF dedicated thread

I reached out to kstairmantis about a replacement (underside playfield) thing box for my TAF restoration, to which his response was, this is on his list but he has yet to make any. After brief back and forth I am going to send him mine so he can use as a template and also mentioned that I would throw something up here to see if there is genuine interest. I know its a minor detail but mine looks like crap all old and grey and will look even worse when I put all new stainless scoops into the game. I have seen Bryan_Kelly nickel plate this and the line box for KornFreak28 way back when he did his game for him but with the price of plating these days that's

Shopping out a friends game, found this back by thing and can’t figure out where it goes. Can’t find it in the manual. Thank you!

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It's a protector for the switch on the top of the plastic ramp.

Picture of location is top left:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-taf-refresh-dirty-editon/page/2#post-7196079

I'd be all over that depending on price.

Ha I think my game is missing that I don’t ever remember seeing anything like that. does anybody make those?

I don’t think all games had them did they Bryan? May have been a later add to prevent ball hang ups.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10778

I want to say I've read it was added somewhere during production after they found out that switch could get beat up badly, so there may easily be games with out it.

To follow up on my own post, all optos are working, 4 on bookcase and 1 on thing flips, I've sat and watched and they always remain open, haven't seen any intermittent false positives..

If I start a game and allow the ball to drain into the swamp, every time the G for GREED lights, then as we play the game, the rest of the lights get added intermittently, so we can regularly get GREED lit up and the bookcase open without hitting the bookcase at all ...

Is there some option in the same we have missed, I suppose this might happen if the bookcase wasn't working, or all the optos failed and would allow the game to carry on working even if the optos weren't working. It's almost as if I have to reset something so that the game knows the bookcase optos are fine ?

any ideas, its super annoying ..

Probably both of these. Prevent:

• Ball traps (air balls off the ramp).
• Ball shorting connections that are not insulated (the terminals of the microswitch).

I actually thought this was a 'feature' - at the start of every ball, the game will automagically add a letter for the first 'GREED" multiball. After the first one, it won't do it any more.
It's to make players that just suck at the game and can't hit the bookcase at all to get a little farther ahead in the game. Make them feel like they're not doing badly. (For on-location games, this was to prevent folks from getting PO'd at the game, so that they don't stop spending money..)

I could be wrong though, since I haven't had a TAF under my wing in (literal) decades..

Do any of the other switches activate when the greed target is triggered in test?

Also check the game settings.

Yep. The game adds a letter with each ball played, upon hitting any switch after launch.

What does this board do, looks like in the book it says it’s the 5 switch and diode board but what I don’t get is it’s attached to the lighting wire harness not the switch harness.

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Good Morning,

Looks like there is a large enough demand for us to make another run of these boards. I will get ahold of our distributor "Pinball Life" and see if they would want to start carrying them.

I will post an update if they do and timeline of when they will have them in stock.

Also looking into upgrading the board so that you can choose between Warm or Cool lighting with a switch on the board, which would alleviate the need to choose what kind of lighting you want when you purchase the board. These are the LEDs we are looking to use, if anyone has a better suggestion we would be open to ideas:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/quelighting-corp/QLSP05WCWW/15848702

Best Regards,

Robert Goebel
Pinshakers LLC

I"d say it provides diodes for 3 controlled lamps on the playfield somewhere.

"Thing" lights ??? When I start a game the "T-H-I" always light. Shouldn't this reset after each game?

Thanks, I suck at reading the manual

You can set this in the adjustments.

I believe giving you those three is the factory setting.

You are correct sir

Does the opto circuit board on the bottom of the playfield control the thing flips opto at all. A while back I accidentally hit touched the connector and shorted out the game and from that point the thing flips never worked. I replaced the optos and still didn’t work. I am in the process of a restore and sending out my boards to Chris Hibler to do NVRAM and some other minor repairs, I would also send him the opto board to test if it’s possible I blew something up on it again not even sure if that is even the right thing or if there is somewhere else I should be looking.

Greed works fine, bookcase optos are all working, so looks like you get the first letter of GREED whenever a switch is hit, so you are guaranteed a letter per ball, now the weird bit is that on the first GREED, letters get added randomly, so I can play with the 1st ball, get G (first switch hit), then not hit the bookcase at all and get further letters added, eventually opening the bookcase for multi-ball having not hit the bookcase at all..

Where this doesn't make a lot of sense is that on the second multi-ball GREED only advances when I hit the bookcase ..

The optos have been faulty for a long time, 2 out of 4 fell off, I've since realised this is because there isn't any rubber on the bookcase anymore, this has been missing for nearly 16 years ...

Could it be that the game has compensated for the 2 missing optos hence why I get letters added for free ?

Its annoying as sometimes you dont want to go for multi-ball as I work through the mansion and getting bear kicks ..

Any advice greatly received !!

This is expected. As previously stated, after the first multiball, the game makes it more difficult by not giving you free letters.

Is GREED adding letters on its own correct on the build up to the first multi-ball ? I assumed you would get G for the first switch thats hit and then should only get other letters when hitting the bookcase, or does the game randomly add the rest of the GREED letters even if you dont hit the bookcase on build up to the 1st multi-ball ?

Every ball, the player will get a 'free' letter. The player can hit the bookcase for additional letters, of course, but the 'free' letters are only given out for the first multiball.

Example:
Start game. "GR" is lit.
Miss skill shot, ball goes into swamp. "E" is lit.
Shoot Mansion, play a mode. Shoot ramp a few times. Finally hit the bookcase, and get the second "E".
Drain.
Ball 2, miss skill show again.
"D" is awarded. Book case opens and lights are lit for Lock.
Do awesome, start multiball. Drain.
Ball three. GREED is reset - no lights lit. Miss skill shot again, ball goes into swamp.
"G" is NOT lit for you, since first multiball was completed.

Ok so opto 4 has stopped working again, was working previously, I suspect this may be my issue, if it worked intermittently then that would explain the letters being awarded randomly. The games we have played since opto 4 has stopped working have not had any intermittent added GREED letters, I guess I need to buy a receiver opto and break out the soldering iron ..

Do you guys know what is supposed to go in these holes. They are t-nuts that are on the top side of the playfield but there was nothing in them on my game. There are 2 on each side

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Anyone purchase one of these, ( not mine ) ?

ebay.com link: itm

I have the same un-used ones on mine.. Im gonna guess they were used in the factory for assembly.

Ah ok, I am not going bother putting t-nuts in when I do my playfield swap

Hello friends, I am restoring my TAF.
In a few days I have to assemble the new playfield, but while disassembling the bookcase this piece has fallen off.
I understand it is from the bookcase, but where does this piece go?
can you help me?
I have a new playfield, but it is not under this piece, is it?

thank you very much !!!! greetings from Argentina !!

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Between metal base and underside of the playfield. There should be two of them. They go around the screws, to help level the turntable to the top side of the playfield.

LTG : )

Bookcase shim:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10759

I always found them to be too thick.

I like to use smaller washers instead.

Is this the right place?
I only have one, not two.
It is good that option of the washers.

alex

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Yes.

LTG : )

thanks my friend !!!!
I leave you a photo so you see it !!!!

when i finish the job i will share it !!!

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There's nothing on it, my friend. I'll show you pictures before and after disassembling.
greetings
Alex

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Hello friends I had to replace the base of the bookcase, now what I have doubt if it is well assembled ... look at the part that I mark if so I have to plug it or something is wrong.
thanks
Alex

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Game turned off. Playfield up and leaned back. I'd plug it into the game, hold it in my hand. Turn the game on. If it cycles back and forth and stops where it should, you have the switches right.

LTG : )

Getting closer

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And closer.

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Joined the family yesterday and am trying to sort out an issue I inherited. The game came with a Pinsound board (v1.4). The cabinet speaker does not work. The volume control on the pinsound board labeled cab controls the b.box (head) speakers. The pinsound b.box volume control does nothing. There is a plain black wire with a molex terminal but no housing stuffed into onto a pin on the j505 WPC-89 jack in the pinsound board.

There’s also a volume control knob mounted in the head that seems oddly redundant since it looks like the pinsound board controls volume separately for cab and head.

I traced the plain black wire improperly hacked/stuffed onto the pinsound board. It goes to the cabinet speaker.

Anybody know how this is supposed to be set up? I’m guessing that the janky hacked black wire needs to go into the open spot on the connector next to it. I’m suspicious of the rest of the installation, though as this alone would not seem like it would enable cab/b.box separation at the pinsound controls. Or would it? I’m also thinking that I can bypass the big volume control knob in the head?

Thought I would ask here before physically experimenting.

Anybody know how this is supposed to be connected and operate?

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Welcome aboard!

The "Audio Level" volume knob shown in your last picture is the dedicated volume control for the Flipper Fidelity speaker set that's installed. Flipper Fidelity sells 2 speaker sets for TAF - 1 for Pinsound boards, and 1 for non-Pinsound boards. The volume knob only comes with the non-Pinsound speaker set. So my guess is the previous owner purchased the speaker set and installed it, and then at some later point in time they replaced the audio board with the Pinsound.

The speaker set for Pinsound boards comes with a 2.1 stereo harness cable that plugs into the "Stereo 2.1 speaker" connector on the Pinsound board that's directly above the WPC89 J505 and J504 connectors. Since they didn't have one, they kept the wiring the same, which keeps it in mono, and I'm also guessing it's bypassing many (all?) of the controls of the Pinsound.

First thing I notice is that you have a single bare wire connected to Pin 2 (or so it looks) on J505 of the Pinsound. I think both Pin 1 and Pin 2 might be ground, but I know mine is connected to Pin 1 (farthest left pin) on that same connector. You could try moving that over and see if it helps, and if so, you should terminate that to a proper connector. However, even if this does help, this will still lock you into a mono output when the Pinsound can do stereo.

For the proper solution, I'd suggest you give Flipper Fidelity a call and see if they can quote you for just that 2.1 wiring harness that would come with the TAF speaker set for Pinsound boards. It's not listed on their website separately. However, I've ordered from them in the past and they're very accommodating. I recently went from a Pinsound board to the original audio board in my TAF, and he sold me a custom conversion kit to convert my speaker set for Pinsound boards to the speaker set for non-Pinsound boards (required a different sub and the volume knob in your picture). You'd have to run this cable through your cabinet to all the speakers, but doing so will give you stereo output, all the volume knobs on your Pinsound will work as designed, and the J505 and J504 connectors become unnecessary.

Thanks - I think you nailed it. I just got off the phone with Flipper Fidelity. I’ve got an 8” woofer and a Pinsound harness coming my way soon. I appreciate your help

Have any of you used the clear plastic bumper bodies on your games. I am intrigued but wonder if it will spill all the light out instead of concentrating it through the bumper cap. What about the transparent skirts. I usually like to keep my games looking original as possible but not opposed to a slight upgrade here and there.

I have on a couple of swaps here with the clear bodies. Haven’t done the clear skirts as I don’t like the look personally. They clear bodies help add much needed light to that area. I guess some would argue it’s supposed to be dark but I like to see the game myself.

Whatever you do, don’t fuck it up! You only want to do those 5 pops once!

Yup!!! I just finished my playfield shop out, and replaced them with the original style. What a real pain the the arse! I do want to add a green LED under the Swamp plastic. Someone here did that and it looked great. It is really dark on the side of the p/f.