Addams Family Gold (Special Collectors Edition), The
Bally, 1994
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Quoted from Playdium:Can someone post some close up pics of their power driver board around J120?
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems pictures and wires used here. Your game may not have all the wires.
LTG : )
Quoted from Playdium:Can someone post some close up pics of their power driver board around J120?
I sound like a broken record (yes, I'm that old) to myself. You can also post an image of YOUR setup and someone can comment on that.
Quoted from LTG:https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems pictures and wires used here. Your game may not have all the wires.
Lots of great information in this section.
Quoted from DumbAss:Here you go.
[quoted image]
The previous owner had connectors 121 and 125 reversed. All set now with the lamp circuit for the backbox.
Current issue is the lamp circuit for the Cloud. The 3 lamps have a blue/blk and a red/wh conductor. The manual shows J126-6 and J125-7. Again, it looks like the previous owner had their hands into this.
I found the red/wh going to J106-5 and the blue/blk going to J125-7.
The problem here is, the pins at both of these locations have 22vdc. That's the pin on the board.
The J126-6 location has a blue/blk attached that runs to the playfield harness.
So how should these be connected and what voltage should I see?
IMG_3848 (resized).jpgIMG_3849 (resized).jpgIMG_3850 (resized).jpgQuoted from Playdium:Current issue is the lamp circuit for the Cloud. The 3 lamps have a blue/blk and a red/wh conductor. The manual shows J126-6 and J125-7. Again, it looks like the previous owner had their hands into this.
I found the red/wh going to J106-5 and the blue/blk going to J125-7.
The problem here is, the pins at both of these locations have 22vdc. That's the pin on the board.
The J126-6 location has a blue/blk attached that runs to the playfield harness.
So how should these be connected and what voltage should I see?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Trace the wires and follow the schematic?
There are some variations from the schematic when the games go into production.
If it works, it should be ok. I think it looks correct.
You can always wire it the way it shows on the schematic if you want, or if it doesnt work in test correctly.
Quoted from Playdium:So how should these be connected and what voltage should I see?
Flashers get zapped with 20 volts. If not fired, I don't know if you'll see any voltage.
Quoted from Playdium:The problem here is, the pins at both of these locations have 22vdc. That's the pin on the board.
Have you checked the rear of the manual for the pinouts of those connectors and what wire goes where ?
Or - go to Tests - Flasher - stop on the flasher you want. Hit the Start button - then every time you hit the "+" diagnostic button, this will step you through flasher name, drive transistor, wire color, which connector, which pin on that connector.
I'd go over the entire driver board with the layout of it in the rear of the manual, and be sure you have the connectors and wires in the correct spots.
LTG : )
Quoted from Playdium:The previous owner had connectors 121 and 125 reversed. All set now with the lamp circuit for the backbox.
This is most likely caused by not having the correctly sized housing. It is not a must but rather should (very strongly advised) to have the correctly sized housing as well as being keyed (the key pin is blocked). If the housing is correctly sized with the key pin installed, it is VERY hard to make this error. J121 is 11 pins. J125 is 9 pins.
Quoted from Playdium:Again, it looks like the previous owner had their hands into this.
Looks like the previous owner used an 11 pin housing for what should be a 9 pin housing for J125. I don't see a key in pin 4. This happens to be exactly the same as J121 (11 pins keyed at 4). It is very easy to install the 11 pin housing into an 11 pin header, especially when the key pins align. This is why it is strongly advised to use the correctly sized housing. Hint: you can cut it down to size if need be.
Quoted from Playdium:I found the red/wh going to J106-5 and the blue/blk going to J125-7.
The problem here is, the pins at both of these locations have 22vdc. That's the pin on the board.
The J126-6 location has a blue/blk attached that runs to the playfield harness.
So how should these be connected and what voltage should I see?
This is correct. The voltage (supply) for the "Backbox Clowd (sic)" (backbox) comes from J106-5. The drive for this is at J125-7. The voltage (supply) for "The Power" (playfield) comes from J107-5,6. The drive for this is at J126-6.
Quoted from LTG:If not fired, I don't know if you'll see any voltage.
There is voltage present at all solenoids (flashers) at all times (assuming a coin door interlock switch is closed if present). The software controls the path to ground through the drive transistor (2N5401 and TIP102 and/or TIP36C).
Quoted from LTG:Or - go to Tests - Flasher - stop on the flasher you want. Hit the Start button - then every time you hit the "+" diagnostic button, this will step you through flasher name, drive transistor, wire color, which connector, which pin on that connector.
DMD does not light. Ordered replacement ribbon cables as a precaution. However voltages at the display are all in spec.
Quoted from cconway84:I finally removed my ramp to install new ramp flaps. During reassembly I wrapped all the exposed wire on the ramp in black 1/4” split loom. Cheap to buy on Amazon and really cleans up the look of all the exposed wires.
[quoted image]
I did the same on mine when I replaced the ramps. Really cleans up the look.
Quoted from Playdium:Is the Premium Non-Ghosting LED kit what most people use? Saw it on Coin Taker.
I've used Coin Taker kits and I have built kits from Pinball Life and Comet. Definitely use non ghosting bulbs for the inserts unless you plan to use an LED OCD board. Comet seems very popular on Pinside; I have liked all three. Don't buy a flasher kit as most LED Flashers are too bright.
Quoted from defonze88:Does anyone know if there is a Playfield hardware list? I see one in the manual but seems to be missing parts I am starting a playfield swap and would like all new hardware Thanks,
Honestly, there's often so many mistakes in the manual that you'd be better off stripping yours and getting a total of what's needed. And unless they're badly damaged, the original stuff will look better than new after tumbling.
I have a NOS Addams Family ramp if anyone is looking. Its the original smoked ramp, not the clear aftermarket replacement. These are almost impossible to find. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/151691
Quoted from dmacy:Honestly, there's often so many mistakes in the manual that you'd be better off stripping yours and getting a total of what's needed. And unless they're badly damaged, the original stuff will look better than new after tumbling.
I Agree but I am about to do a full teardown new playfield, plastics etc. and wanted to by all anodized hardware these old manuals are not that good with breakdowns
ask this guy, he has ordered every single part ! :
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-scratch-build/page/70#post-7407312
Quoted from defonze88:Does anyone know if there is a Playfield hardware list? I see one in the manual but seems to be missing parts I am starting a playfield swap and would like all new hardware Thanks,
Quoted from defonze88:Does anyone know if there is a Playfield hardware list? I see one in the manual but seems to be missing parts I am starting a playfield swap and would like all new hardware Thanks,
Yes, the parts list is here : https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=20
Quoted from defonze88:I Agree but I am about to do a full teardown new playfield, plastics etc. and wanted to by all anodized hardware these old manuals are not that good with breakdowns
Trust me. I have done more than a few. Strip it down and reuse what you have. Unless they’re badly abused, what you have is fine. Tumble and go.
Just wanted to say hi. I’m hoping to be a future owner someday but tracking down a machine is hard. I fell in love with TAF in college. There was a machine in the student union and it took a lot of the few extra dollars I had in those days. It was totally worth it. Pretty much since then I’ve hoped to have one of my own. Enjoying all the pictures and stories here, so thanks!
Quoted from phylaxis:Just wanted to say hi. I’m hoping to be a future owner someday but tracking down a machine is hard. I fell in love with TAF in college. There was a machine in the student union and it took a lot of the few extra dollars I had in those days. It was totally worth it. Pretty much since then I’ve hoped to have one of my own. Enjoying all the pictures and stories here, so thanks!
They're out there . . .
Quoted from phylaxis:Just wanted to say hi. I’m hoping to be a future owner someday but tracking down a machine is hard. I fell in love with TAF in college. There was a machine in the student union and it took a lot of the few extra dollars I had in those days. It was totally worth it. Pretty much since then I’ve hoped to have one of my own. Enjoying all the pictures and stories here, so thanks!
Yes there is lots out there I have own one for 14 years and did a full restore too it enjoy it for many years and I wanted something else lol it's always the way and now I am looking again all over again
Quoted from phylaxis:Just wanted to say hi. I’m hoping to be a future owner someday but tracking down a machine is hard. I fell in love with TAF in college. There was a machine in the student union and it took a lot of the few extra dollars I had in those days. It was totally worth it. Pretty much since then I’ve hoped to have one of my own. Enjoying all the pictures and stories here, so thanks!
Same exact story here. Played one in my college's bowling alley/arcade area when it was a brand new game and was hooked ever since. Took me about a year to find one when I finally started looking for one. Got a great deal on it as it needed a bit of mechanical and electrical work, but it's been rock solid ever since. Owned it for about 10 years now and have no plans to ever part with it. Good luck with your search!
Quoted from Miguel351:Same exact story here. Played one in my college's bowling alley/arcade area when it was a brand new game and was hooked ever since
Wonder if we played the same machine since mine was next to a bowling alley too. Or do all college student unions have bowling lanes? Probably.
Quoted from Miguel351:Same exact story here. Played one in my college's bowling alley/arcade area when it was a brand new game and was hooked ever since. Took me about a year to find one when I finally started looking for one. Got a great deal on it as it needed a bit of mechanical and electrical work, but it's been rock solid ever since. Owned it for about 10 years now and have no plans to ever part with it. Good luck with your search!
Similar story for me... I played one at the local harness horse racing track back in the early '90s. Bought mine over 21 years ago in 2001 knowing nothing about pinball machines. It was my first machine and will probably be the last to leave... if ever.
Quoted from phylaxis:Wonder if we played the same machine since mine was next to a bowling alley too. Or do all college student unions have bowling lanes? Probably.
I'm sure a number of them do, yes. But if you went to Fresno State, then it was the same machine. 
orangedude71 - Playfield looking good! I'm a couple weekends behind you, doing the same thing. With your pop bumper light sockets, it looks like your using the the type that has the centering bracket. How does that affect clearance with bulb in, and top lid on? It looks like you've got a couple different type bulbs in. Do I need to plan for flat face bulbs?
Quoted from Playdium:The manual shows 2 purple plastic posts, (#03-8319). Where were these originally placed?
My purple star posts are on the bottom of the slingshots.
Quoted from PolePosition:orangedude71 - Playfield looking good! I'm a couple weekends behind you, doing the same thing. With your pop bumper light sockets, it looks like your using the the type that has the centering bracket. How does that affect clearance with bulb in, and top lid on? It looks like you've got a couple different type bulbs in. Do I need to plan for flat face bulbs?
I used the centering bracket that is correct and it’s tight against the cap but it clears with a flat face bulb in. That said, i was testing the lights out yesterday and didnt like the look of the single bulb so ive ordered some of those disk inserts from comet which will both up light and downlight the bumper better. And yes, disregard the bulb in the lowest orange bumper, i had to swap that in for testing purposes. That bulb would definitely not clear the cap.
That's what I figured, thanks for the heads up. The centering bracket for the socket is a good idea, just wish they would have accounted for height clearance. I see Comet has the ring type and the circular/center type lid light options; because of the clipped clear cap on the upper most popper, I guess that eliminates the ring light option.
Quoted from orangedude71:I used the centering bracket that is correct and it’s tight against the cap but it clears with a flat face bulb in. That said, i was testing the lights out yesterday and didnt like the look of the single bulb so ive ordered some of those disk inserts from comet which will both up light and downlight the bumper better. And yes, disregard the bulb in the lowest orange bumper, i had to swap that in for testing purposes. That bulb would definitely not clear the cap.
If you go with the 7 led discs from Comet, you might want to use the translucent/frosted pop bumper bodies from @zitt.
This wil light up the area perfectly without being too bright and distracting.
Quoted from pinballinreno:If you go with the 7 led discs from Comet, you might want to use the translucent/frosted pop bumper bodies from Zitt.
This wil light up the area perfectly without being too bright and distracting.
110% it brightens it up. I did that on a few swaps.
orangedude71 pics:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-taf-refresh-dirty-editon/page/2#post-7219377
Quoted from pinballinreno:If you go with the 7 led discs from Comet, you might want to use the translucent/frosted pop bumper bodies from Zitt.
This wil light up the area perfectly without being too bright and distracting.
These are the zitt bodies already.
Quoted from PolePosition:That's what I figured, thanks for the heads up. The centering bracket for the socket is a good idea, just wish they would have accounted for height clearance. I see Comet has the ring type and the circular/center type lid light options; because of the clipped clear cap on the upper most popper, I guess that eliminates the ring light option.
Have a fully working Addams, that I was planning on rebuilding from scratch, but may consider trading or selling. Very nice mylared field and presentable cabinet, but I tend to rebuild everything no matter what the starting condition, but have quite a few projects and maybe could skip this one if made sense.
I'm in the process of stripping the playfield for a cleaning and waxing. All posts and rubbers getting changed out, as well as going all LED. The Pop bumpers will get broken down with new skirts added.
As far as the "Cliffy Protectors", don't those tear up the balls due to the raised metal edge?
IMG_3892 copy (resized).jpgQuoted from Playdium:As far as the "Cliffy Protectors", don't those tear up the balls due to the raised metal edge?
Not from what I have seen on all the games I have them on.
Quoted from Playdium:As far as the "Cliffy Protectors", don't those tear up the balls due to the raised metal edge?
I doubt it.
You have plenty of other metal in there for balls to hit and scuff up the balls.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:I doubt it.
You have plenty of other metal in there for balls to hit and scuff up the balls.
LTG : )
Pop-bumper rings come to mind...
Quoted from pinballinreno:Pop-bumper rings come to mind...
Lane guides, pop up chutes, ball trough, balls hitting each other.
Lots of stuff to hurt the balls.
That is why keeping an eye on them and replace when necessary. Avoid sanding your playfield.
LTG : )
Quoted from Playdium:The manual shows 2 purple plastic posts, (#03-8319). Where were these originally placed?
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