One of these?
https://mantispinball.com/product-category/addams-family/

Edit: this one:
https://mantispinball.com/product/the-addams-family-small-center-ramp-flap/

That looks to be the one. Thank you!

If the flap is in good condition, I remove it and re-blue it.

There are 2 colors of Perma-Blue cold bluing compound, black and blue. amazon sells both. Walmart usually has the black color, sometimes both.

Gate flaps are black and some ramp flaps are blue. Often since Im sanding them out anyway, I just make everything black.

I just sand the flap clean and remove scratches, graining top to bottom, finsih with 1000 grit.

wear gloves and dont put any skin oil on it.

Clean off with acetone, heat it up with a hair drier to about 120 degrees and dip it in the solution. you can also brush it on if you are quick and liberal with the compound.

3 or 4 dips seems to be about right.

pinballinreno - I went ahead and order one, but thanks for the tips. I may give this a try since the flap is coming off anyways. Also, the Mantis one I ordered looks like it could be off on color based on the web pic, so I'll have a backup plan. Much appreciated.

Mantis ones are stainless. I’ve ordered too many to count!

Next question. I just bought a repro playfield from CPR (current non-silkscreened run), overall its ok, there's a couple dust bunnies in the clear that I'll have to figure out. My bigger concern relates to the shooter lane groove. The repro is much shorter than the original. On my original, the groove goes up almost to where the blue ink begins, whereas the repro groove only extends about 3 inches up from the switch cutout before it becomes completely flat. Is this going to be a problem? I don't want to find out after swapping in the playfield. Regrooving and re-clearing are beyond my skillset or comfort level.

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If this is the case, I wouldnt worry about it. Really it doesnt make much difference at all.

On trash in the clear, you will have to lightly sand it out and re-buff to a high gloss.

Or live with it and let the ball roll it down, and it will.

I have never bought a repro playfield that I didnt have to sand flat and re-clear to meet my satisfaction.

But its a pinball machine! slight imperfections dont really matter in the long run.

I've swapped a few playfields from CPR and one from Mirco. A few tiny imperfections are to be expected. I'd just ignore them unless they are bad. Once you get everything re assembled and play a hundred games or so, no one is going to notice anything anyway. Don't sweat the small stuff. Good luck on the swap, and congrats on the Addams. I just got one as well.

I’m doing a swap with a digital CPR TAF now. Other than typical dimples off which really isn’t a big deal, it seems ok.

I didn't like the look of the gold pop bumper caps, so I swapped them out to orange. Also painted Festers chair. I'm super happy with the results.

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Most of the dust bunnies are out of the main view, but this one I don't know what I should do about, its front and center in the mansion. You can feel the bump. Is it possible to do a very localized sanding of say 1000 grit, followed by polishing, or would I need to do the whole playfield?

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I'd start as mild as possible. Like Novus 1. Localized, and gentle. See how it works. Only step up to more aggressive polish if needed. Novus 2, 3, etc. I'm not bold enough to try straight up sand paper on a new playfield, but I'm sure it's been done before. I certainly wouldn't mess with the whole playfield unless you're capable of clearing and polishing the whole thing to match. And, obviously I can't see the defect in person, but you might consider just ignoring it altogether. Playing the game will diminish the spot over time.

Does anyone know where these plastics go from a repro plastics set on Addams?

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taf-plastics-whats-the-deal-with-some-of-the-extras scroll down to post 11.

LTG : )

Thank you LTG!

My original translight looked fine when the game was turned off, but looked awful when lit up due to age and yellowing on the backside. I tried cool white LEDs to no avail. So, I went ahead and ordered a CPR mirrored. It's not my first CPR, but I must share the results. Brighter illumination, and the blinker lights actually show up. Looks awesome. CPR for the win!

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Joined the club again. Picked up an Addams Gold to put beside my current Addams Gold. This one is #8 and had batteries with 2012 date codes on the board that haven’t leaked.

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Wow, that's a low number! I had always thought that the first 12-20 or so went to Bally employees. Then, after that, the first 400 or so went overseas and the remainder stayed stateside.

Either way, congrats!

Looks like the board has damage from alkaline corrosion on it. It's not well lit but the telltale blue is there.

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Oh man - that’s the dream! Two TAF Golds! One day … one day …

Just a quick hello, 
I will be making more Pin2DMD if there is enough demand.
The list of colorized games (not all games are colorized is here)
https://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/5391-complete-pin2dmd-colour-file-list-for-virtual-real-pins/

If you game is not on the list, it is most likely not colorized. This means nobody has made colour files for Pin2DMD.
Good news, this one has been colorized by the awesome pin-sider member Netzwerg. He has done many other heavy hitters as well. so if you see his name next to a colourization you can expect a really great pin2dmd experience! Thanks NetzZwerg

For pricing contact me by private message as I am not sure whether this is allowed on here.
I have made several dozens of these screens in the past, a lot of these go to myself, games I partially restored or to other collector who have bought off me.

Here are a couple of vids of my own games, I do have other games but I do not keep a lot of DMD games around often

Simpsons:

Indiana Jones:

And I just finished installing one in LW3 but since I am fixing other parts of the game I do not have a video of it yet, but I did test it and the screen works really well. Best part is that some colour files are free.

Anyway, enough infomercial now. Thanks

Need some guidance. Was playing TAF when the kick outs became very sluggish. Then Things hand came out during play and would not retract. Then the GI was very dim. Where should I check first. The display works fine and so does the sound card. I went through the diagnostics, but the GI portion and Solenoid test would not function. Thank you in advance! Ken

Good call. Get the battery holder off and fix what ever is going on.

LTG : )

Just a bad photo. No acid damage noticeable. Still removing the battery holder and going with nvram though.

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Sorry for the false alarm. This isn't the alkaline damage you're looking for.

Need some expert advice on my pair of Addams Gold games. Both are actual gold games with collectors edition plates.

I got no 0738 in 2019 and it was a reimport. Playfield is vibrant with deep orange cloud but showed some wear at scoop like most do. Mansion was clean. Serial number label shows a build date of 4/27/94 and the pf has a mar 28 94 date code. I have the certificate for this game.

I got game no 0008 this week thinking it might have a repro pf. Orange cloud wasn’t quite as dark, more yellow orange. But looking closely this pf has a oconto falls, Wisconsin label same as my other gold game. Both built by Burkel inc with matching phone numbers on both playfield edges.

Game 008 is a domestic game built 5/6/94 on the serial number tag. Pf has a Dec 15/95 date code. No certificate for this game.

So are both of these original gold playfields? I thought game 008 might be a pf swap because it showed no wear at scoop or elsewhere and orange cloud color was a bit lighter than the other game.

Both games have the collectors edition plaques, extra ball buttons, larger snowflake pattern in red carpet area of pf, use optos not leaf switches for flipper buttons.

Game 008 also has numbers matching boards and is missing the relay cube on the main board that ordinary TAF games had. They removed it for the gold run.

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I don't think there was truly anything sequential about the commemorative plaque numbering system at Bally, which is also kind of later proven by the whole Cactus Canyon numbering fiasco. I would imagine they saved the lowest numbers for the Bally employees. With the late date code on number 8, I'm thinking they either saved the employee gifted TAFGs until the end of the run, or that might have been a warranty replacement of some kind. The latter is kind of hard to believe, though, with such a special model game. Or, maybe they ran all the cabs at once, installed all the boards and electronics, then perhaps had playfield issues towards the end of the run that necessitated a new run late in '95. Then, when those PF's came in, they installed them and finally let the game out the door.

A nice little mystery, no matter what, that's for sure!

Wow, great find-you have got twins

My Sega Frankenstein still hat the original batteries from 1994 when I got it 4 years ago
They were not leaking and voltage was still in the ok range...some things were really better in the past

I agree that nothing about these was sequential and a late build makes sense for a special or employee game. I’m was mostly just interested in opinions on if the playfield is original based on me thinking it could be a replacement due to it having no wear and lighter color in the orange cloud area. Based on the stamps and dates though I now think it is all original.

I haven't seen any repro playfields with dates or company names stamped on the edge. I am pretty sure both are originals, probably just different runs. You can find original plastics for the same game that had multiple runs and the colors can sometimes be totally different.

It probably got some sun at some point. Different colors will fade at different rates and yellows and oranges fade fast.

Not all playfields were manufactured identically. There is a large variance between the companies that were contracted to make the playfields.

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/PF_Production.html

After that you have think about "nature versus nuture" = "manufacturing versus exposure".

I’m not complaining to hear these are original. I just had a hard time believing it at first. These pf are both the same manufacturer Burkel Inc. Oconto falls WI 54154 (414)846-8453. They are both stamped as such. One was March of 94, the other was Dec ‘95.

The more faded or yellowed pf on the right is off the serial number 8 game that looks much cleaner, wasn’t drilled for a lock bar, didn’t have coin mechs installed, and looks brand new.

Wish I knew more of both games history.

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The game should have had coin mechs from the factory.

Operators pull them out when they sell the games.

Missing the mechs could be a sign thst its not HUO?

But who knows at this point.

Still its a Beautiful game with liitle or no wear from the lock down bar.

These fields were screen-printed, which means the colors were mixed beforehand. (i.e. Like house paint, not like printers where a color is generated from 4 others overlaid over each other) It's entirely possible that an employee at this time messed up that fluorescent orange screen by accidentally running a different color through it before-hand, or the ink mixing was done wrong on this batch. Someone at WMS didn't flag it as bad when the game was made.

I used to work at a flexographic printing company and can attest to this kind of thing happening a lot. Not so much the different color thing, but the poor mixing of ink. Sure the computer and the scale tell you what and how to mix your inks to get the specific color you're trying to hit, but if the pressman puts one, or two, too many portions of certain colors in mixing the one he wants, it'll be off. Sure the color may only be off by a couple percentage points, or as it's actually known, the Delta E, but it's still different to the naked eye and noticeable. That's not even taking into consideration the need to keep the color mixed well during long printing runs and when refilling the ink, taking into account the color(s) that are already in the ink container and factoring that in to your new mix.

So, the area around the upper right flipper, bookcase, and center ramp is unnecessarily dark, especially in a dark room. Good mounting locations for spotlights are scarce. I put my modest brainpower to work and created a simple bracket that holds 2 spotlights. It tucks behind Festers chair so it's not an eyesore and it doesn't shine in the players eyes. Ties into the GI directly below. I'm super happy with the results! Being able to actually see the upper flipper and ball really helps to time those jackpot shots!

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We hosted a neighborhood Halloween party, and look who showed up!! Two neighbors who had NO idea I had an Addams Family pinball
I had to get their picture and share it here.

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When using the Gold ROMS, can you use the non gold sound roms?

Yes. You'll just have animations without the 'new' sounds.

I just installed a Pinsound card in my TAF and new speakers.

I downloaded all the sound files from Pinsound and my initial feeling is that they are terrible.
I like the Pinsound for LOTR and Tommy, so this is especially disappointing.

Are there any other sound files someplace else that are better?

If not, I guess my next step is to invest tons of hours into going through the movies and making new files - after I figure out how to do it.

I have a new to me machine and I'm still learning my way around the rule set. One thing that I noticed that I think is wrong is at start up the Letters "T" "H" "I" is already lit up on the backboard. Is it suppose to be that way or if not what switches control the letter so I can check them?

Getting the ball to Thing (go through short ramp in top middle to land in saucer in top right of playfield) adds one letter for each shot. The game starts with the first three lights spotted for you. Once you've collected the THING points once, you then have to light all five in sequence instead of just the last two.

Feature adjustment #16, "Free Thing Lamps", lets you change from the default of 3, ranging from 0 to 5.

Thank you for the detailed post! This helped a lot.

Yeah I thought the same. Callouts feel muted to me. I haven't touched pinsound since as a result.

My only experience with Pinsound is with BSD, and it is freaking AMAZING!! Game changer, literally. So, when I finally got an Addams Family, I started looking at videos of pinsound for the title. I was underwhelmed to say the least. What a letdown. One video I watched actually had "the monster mash" song playing at certain times........ wtf??? Someone who knows Pinsound programming, and is an Addams fan, really really needs to give this game the Pinsound love it deserves.

Can anyone confirm these measurements for me? I have a new ramp and seems like it may be warped. Drilling new holes in the pf wont work you have to stretch the ramp out to get it around the post/target.

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2 questions if I may:

1. Many times, Ball flies off the ramp once it passes from the plastic to the wire part....

2. In test mode, the stars on the two ends of THING letters under the DMD light up. During gameplay I haven't ever seen them turn on. Have I not reached some stage during game play? Is it a rom issue (have gold installed) or is that just the way it is?

Thanks.

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I guess something's out of adjustment. Obviously, that shouldn't happen. I have never seen my machine do that. Look around that area to see if something's not lined up right, or maybe came out of a mounting hole or something.

2. In test mode, the stars on the two ends of THING letters under the DMD light up. During gameplay I haven't ever seen them turn on. Have I not reached some stage during game play? Is it a rom issue (have gold installed) or is that just the way it is?

Off the top of my head I can't recall the exact shot (silly, since I've had my game 25 years and play it often), but it's either a combo to the left ramp, or just hitting the left ramp one way or the other. I'm pretty sure it's the combo shot -- shoot through the graveyard from the right flipper, then throw the ball up the left ramp with the top flipper as it comes around. But I admit, I'm not 100% sure.

You can do a light test in the service menu to verify the lamps are working. If they are, then you just haven't made that shot yet. If that's the case, then practice up!

Bonus points for three-way and four-way combos: start with the bear kick ramp, hit the graveyard for combo, left ramp for three-way, then into the swamp with the Thing flipper for the four-way. Fun, and great audio to go with the point award! If you can get good at the combos, I guarantee you'll be lighting up those stars like crazy, whether the combo is actually needed or not.

Worse comes to worse, you could always get on youtube and find the clips of the scenes that have the sounds you're looking to replace. Then find a youtube to MP3 conversion website and download the MP3 file of the clip, then cut out the section of the audio you want in an audio editing program(I'm sure there are some free websites or programs you can use to do that kind of thing).

I thought PinSound had a place for people to upload their mixes for games... Have you looked there yet? Was TAF not on there?