That is amazing! Very jealous!

He started to sign the Translite, and the gold sharpee was running out, he got as far as the “h” that’s why the Ch looks a little funny, he went back over it with a new one.

Rumour going round was that this was Christopher Lloyds last signing - at least in the UK.. but was just something going round.

People were getting more things for him to sign. At £110 a signature, fortune was made.

I figured, once it's on there, it's on there. going over it twice might make it look a bit worse. Oh well. I can always buy a certified second one for another keepsake . That's why I went this time. Due to his a get, wasn't sure I'd get a second chance!

So, before I lock these things down tight, how does this look? Circuit board also goes on today.

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Looks good to me. The only thing I can see are the washers for the pop bumpers are on the wrong side. I did exactly the same thing when rebuilding my T2. You naturally think the washers go before the nut.

Photo below is from my unrestored TAF.

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So, they really go at the bottom of the threaded piece?......that's somehow going to be even more annoying to setup than this was. oy. first thing for today.

better?

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Yep that is correct.

Yeah the washers look good now. You would think it was the other way round though.

are the pop bumper black screws supposed to be screwed so much they won't move anymore? Mine don't seem to have that problem :)_. They keep moving after they hit the wood.

might need some f ine tuning, but all in now.

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Looks good. I'm no expert on this, but in the case of those strips running to your pop bumper lights for the lower-most pop bumper in the photo, I would separate the strips more when you staple them down and make sure they aren't coming in contact with any other metal parts, such as a support bracket. Again, I'm no expert and not positive of this, but I would worry about a short otherwise. I like the way you've clearly separated them and kept them away from metal parts for the other pop bumpers.

Joe is right. You want the wire leads clear from other brackets, etc.

is it ok if they rest against the staples? wouldn't that count as metal too? I Tried to keep them as clear from everything as possible.

And of course there's so much more than that. Here's just one pic giving you the idea of where things need to go.

It's bad enough putting one of these things back together after having taken pictures. I can't imagine doing it without ever seeing the game.

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Yes, that just secures them to the wood and doesn't present the possibility of a short. But I wouldn't let two staples touch or let the leads or staples touch anything else metal.

You can also run the bare pop bumper gi inside clear tubing as shown here. I use it to go under the pop bumper brackets without risking a short.

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https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6716

Marco sells 1/8” inner diameter tubing for this. Or get something similar at Home Depot or a pet store for a aquarium.

Or hobby shop. Fuel line for model cars or air planes.

LTG : )

may have to add that to the list just to be on the safe side. will move the tabs tomorrow.

I plan on getting titan silicon ring set for my Addams. I can decide on white or the translucent they have. Does anyone have the translucent on there machine they could post some picture with the machine off and on?

Anyone know if there’s a way to get a high res of all of the cabinet art? Buddy of mine has a CNC machine and the machinery to direct print onto the wood itself in high quality. We both have an Addams, so figured it would be a good one to try it out on.

Well after blowing about five fuses I decide to call in the big guns-Mr. Rob Anthony

Found out there was a short in one of the bayonets of the bulb base towards back of machine(coming in contact with itself). I always learn so much from Rob and he has to be one of the nicest guys I have ever met. We started by trouble shooting any shorts visually and did not find anything. Then disconnected purple GI lead from 121 and splice together to find the short in the chain. If anyone needs a fantastic service technician Rob Anthony with Lock when Lit is one of the best(if not the best and I highly recommend his services)

Thanks again to Rob for helping me out-he is awesome!

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My game is still a little dark, I am leaning towards adding mirrors and maybe some spots?

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I added some spot lights for a few customers. Here's a good post of them:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-taf-playfield-swap-and-overall-refresh-/page/2#post-6829107

Please tell me there are only one of these muckers . The damn spring took forever to attach!
even being careful!

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Also, how close would you say I am to a complete bottom? Obviously need to work on the book case (Do they sell complete sets somewhere new?) and Thing Still needs some parts. but what else looks missing?
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Looking pretty close to 70-80%. I see a few lane switches and sling switches missing in addition to what you have already mentioned. A few mechs and magnet board missing too.

If also recommend having the magnet fuses installed.

OK, as someone with attention deficit disorder, when I Get THIS close to finishing something, I'm all over the place, so I'm going to do something a little unusual. lets start with this image. I need some help to figure out what is missing, and part numbers so I can go to marco and look them up. figured it might be easier to speed finish this thing up and not miss anything

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Right slingshot assembly. Kicker goes in the oval slot where the plastic spoon leaf blade switch is laying.

You have a manual. Look up the part numbers.

LTG : )

Missing a roll-over and a few lamp sockets.

Check the HEP pictures with a magnifier. You will see whats missing if you divide the playfield into eighth's.

I think what I'm going to have to do to focus on getting this done is do it in sections.

BALL TROUGH SWITCH PLATE ASSEMBLY this seems out of stock new :/

And took stock trying to organize things here, looks like i'm only missing about 4 lower playfield parts. as far as attachments go. not counting lights or switches.

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That's exactly what I do when I do topside teardowns for cleaning and polishing. Only work in one main area at a time to mitigate doing too much at one time and not remembering what you took off from where as there can be lots of duplicate parts used in many different areas of a game.

I am doing a scratch build as well, this is what I purchased. You will need to trim the corner of the plate for clearance but it took me 10 seconds.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-B8925-UPD&Category_Code=BTO

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Ball Trough, Plate, Switch Assy B-8925 (Updated) Black Knight (2000) - MX-B8925-UPD
1 $33.60 $33.60
Shipping: USPS First Class Package Shipping & Handling: $9.00
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $42.60

Ordered, thanks . so, I found a high powered pcb assembly on ebay that I Got new. that's on the way.
Got a new Driver support Bracket, that's on the way. $50's all shiny metal. Have the Spring for that, and the other circular item. just missing one or two of the assemblies to finish that, forget which. I still need an extra A-14369-L for item 9. a B-9362-l-2 for 13. A-15368 for Thing. #25.

Once I Get all those done, I can focus on finishing the book case and Thing, and have a complete Lower Parts Assembly list.

Sorry for being this threads over poster this week

One more thing today, as pointed out with a photo earlier. and with another HEP photo for reference. how does THIS placement look for the rods before I re staple them?

And, Also noticed I had this sucker in the wrong place. I did have it in the top left kickout above the book case, but the HEP photo shows a different model. Are there THREE of these on the board somewhere, or did I buy a third one by mistake...
The other one goes right next to this one by, I think the chair kickout.
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It doesnt matter where you put the Lamp flat wires.

They just CANT touch ANYTHING metal.

Those switch lugs could be cleaned a little....

I always staple the lamp leads first before everything else gets in the way.

Save things pics. They show your wire connections along with lead locations.

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I'll try and clean them up a bit on monday. my board arrives then as does my trough plate. first job for the day....

Nice work as always Bryan!

I think a lot of us have stopped using the flat wire lamp sockets and just integrate the round wire sockets (from Marco) into the harness with a molex.

I havent stapled one in in a couple years now.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5206-00

It solves some problems, but causes a couple minor ones in the exchange...

I agree...these are cleaner...I started using these...as the socket stays more upright https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-lamp-socket-with-centering-bracket.html

I dont think Ive put in regular LEDs for awhile either...

I really like Zitt's translucent pop bodies and the 7 LED discs.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-discs?_pos=2&_sid=176cef3eb&_ss=r

http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=772

the 7 led disc looks way better than the UFO looking ones and lights the bottom really well.

I like the EVO pop bumper LED lights from Pinball Life a bit better.
https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html
But this is only my opinion.

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never saw that uncle fester before. most have the obvious lightbulb one. think that works better because it doesn't mesh badly with the image on the playfield.

I think its really a matter of the game theme.

UFO looking pops on AFM or space themed game, or a circus raceway lights concept would work well.

Other games, I like the 7/11 leds disks from comet better.

With these I have wondered if I would like them better with a more opaque pop bumper cap for more uniform lighting. I love the down lighting these provide onto the playfield, but don’t like seeing all the dots up top (unless like you said, it fits the theme)

so, before this thing becomes swiss cheese, how does this placement look? better? I know i'm missing stand offs for the circuit boards on some.

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Dont obsess over this, its only critical that the flat wire doesnt touch anything.

The factory assemblers put them wherever they fit in.