Is there a good diagram of what posts go where on the playfield? Plastic and metal. I’m not seeing it in the manual. Maybe just have to review some hep builds
Is there a good diagram of what posts go where on the playfield? Plastic and metal. I’m not seeing it in the manual. Maybe just have to review some hep builds
Quoted from orangegsx:Is there a good diagram of what posts go where on the playfield? Plastic and metal. I’m not seeing it in the manual. Maybe just have to review some hep builds
Definitely copy another game or go over the HEP pictures.
Quoted from orangegsx:Is there a good diagram of what posts go where on the playfield? Plastic and metal. I’m not seeing it in the manual. Maybe just have to review some hep builds
Here are a few.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Here are a few.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks! Perfect!
Quoted from JOESCHALL:To state the obvious, just in case, be certain that you don't already have support brackets and the old board in the machine. If so, you can always drill out the rivets that mounted the board to the brackets originally and use something like standoffs or other mounting hardware such as bolts and washers instead (I think I would use plastic washers, but maybe that's not necessary). Otherwise, going by appearance and the listing of product compatibility, I think that TWO of the below brackets from marco would work. Again, you would have to use some other mounting hardware to attach the board to the bracket unless you can rivet.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10756
thanks sirs and maddams . Some things just sold on amazon that have been sitting for a while, so I might FINALLY have some extra credit again for a re-start date in july
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Quoted from JOESCHALL:To state the obvious, just in case, be certain that you don't already have support brackets and the old board in the machine. If so, you can always drill out the rivets that mounted the board to the brackets originally and use something like standoffs or other mounting hardware such as bolts and washers instead (I think I would use plastic washers, but maybe that's not necessary). Otherwise, going by appearance and the listing of product compatibility, I think that TWO of the below brackets from marco would work. Again, you would have to use some other mounting hardware to attach the board to the bracket unless you can rivet.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10756
Brand new machine, all new parts, so yep, that's not applicable here ;o) First part I will install trying to get back into this sucker to push to the final finish
If you used colored rubber on your machine and think it came out well, please share your ring list with colors. Pictures would also be great. Thanks!
I’m planning to do a playfield swap on my TAF in the near future, and considering a CPR repro playfield. They just started producing playfields again, but no longer offering the silkscreened type. Curious if anyone has recent experience with their new playfields and can comment on the quality?
Quoted from PolePosition:I’m planning to do a playfield swap on my TAF in the near future, and considering a CPR repro playfield. They just started producing playfields again, but no longer offering the silkscreened type. Curious if anyone has recent experience with their new playfields and can comment on the quality?
I am interested in buying one also.
As long as their clear coat holds up and does not pool and chip, i don't think you can go wrong with a CPR product.
With the new digital print, lines and images should appear more crisp and their "should not" be any flaws in the print of the artwork so to speak, such as smudging ink, like their was on some of the silk screened playfields. They do state on their website description that the neon orange is not an exact match, no deal breaker really, as anything that is reproduction is bound to have some differences here and there.
However digital print is not "true" to the original, but moving forward it seems to be the new norm.
Again, as long as their clear coat holds up, unlike others, i would not hesitate to purchase one. Hopefully others can chime in with their experience as of late with the new digital print playfields from CPR and how their clear holds up especially around posts with artwork underneath.
Nothing worse then putting hours and hours into doing a playfield swap, only to have your playfield chip during the second game.
Got exchange wireforms from PINBALL PLATING. Went with gold rather than chrome and I’m pretty happy with the outcome.
Quoted from Shredder565:how does it attach?
You can see that in this picture.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=9386
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:You can see that in this picture.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=20&picno=9386
LTG : )
how does that look before more screws go in?
Quoted from Shredder565:how does that look before more screws go in?
I'd center the kicker arm in the hole.
LTG : )
Quoted from Shredder565:still a little confused on the pops. didn't see it in the manual I have, just how to build the main unit.
I know this looks wrong.[quoted image]
Leaf switch goes on the same side of the flange as the spoon.
Quoted from EvanDickson:Leaf switch goes on the same side of the flange as the spoon.[quoted image]
And the coil is upside down.
Vid does a good write up. Make sure you have the washers with the 6-32 nuts too. Both at the usual culprits.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-485839
Quoted from Shredder565:and I'm also clearly missing the proper nuts for the rods.
Hold brackets to screws through playfield and rods. 6/32nd locknuts. Hardware stores should have them.
LTG : )
Quoted from Shredder565:I know this looks wrong.[quoted image]
I would suggest cutting the diode off the solenoid. There is risk that you can attach the power wire and the drive wire incorrectly causing a short - i.e. the solenoid does not work as a solenoid. If the wires are attached correctly it's redundant. Williams factory solenoids for WPC do not have diodes at the solenoid.
Hey all after searching for seven years I finally found my grail CQ Adams. It is spectacular and everything I have always wanted and I am excited to join the club.
Looking to add a few more mods and was wondering if anyone has installed these art blades and if so do you have a picture of the machine with them installed? Going back and forth on mirror vs colorful blades-not sure I like the dark brick look.
Another question is does anyone know where I could purchase the 3D printed hand(Thing) pingulp-super cool and I need one
Adams beverage holder (resized).jpg
Adams blades (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinmister:where I could purchase the 3D printed hand(Thing) pingulp
After looking closely not sure if this was just a computer mock up photo?
looks like it should attach to leg bolts
-Seriously though-I really want a Thing pingulp if someone has made these?
Quoted from DumbAss:I would suggest cutting the diode off the solenoid. There is risk that you can attach the power wire and the drive wire incorrectly causing a short - i.e. the solenoid does not work as a solenoid. If the wires are attached correctly it's redundant. Williams factory solenoids for WPC do not have diodes at the solenoid.
Yep, one of the many things to do during cleanup .
first step is to purchase and install everything properly
Step one done, right side now. waiting for my nut bolt screws. and then will put them back with the switches installed. one more thing done. my extra part section is thankfully dwindling
Quoted from pinmister:Looking to add a few more mods and was wondering if anyone has installed these art blades and if so do you have a picture of the machine with them installed? Going back and forth on mirror vs colorful blades-not sure I like the dark brick look.
I used different Blades and attached are pictures showing how they look in the game. They are on the dark side. I like the Thing box covers.
Quoted from Shredder565:Yep, one of the many things to do during cleanup .
first step is to purchase and install everything properly
Step one done, right side now. waiting for my nut bolt screws. and then will put them back with the switches installed. one more thing done. my extra part section is thankfully dwindling [quoted image]
As suggested earlier, you're going to want to cut the diodes off all the coils, except the flipper coils.
Quoted from Shredder565:well, I guess while I have these things here now...how does that look?
[quoted image]
Yep, looks about right
Quoted from OTRChief:They are on the dark side.
Most of the art blades I have seen are on the dark side and are either background bricks or a portrait gallery. Trying to find something colorful and bright. My Adams is already dark and not lit very well. One of my only games where I have to turn the lights up in order to play. I still do not care for Pinstadiums and would rather turn up ambient light
Has anyone added extra spots, etc. to increase lighting on their Adams?
Who will make me my Thing Pingulp? -This is a high priority and needs immediate attention(honestly a modder would make a killing on these)-make it so
Quoted from pinmister:Most of the art blades I have seen are on the dark side and are either background bricks or a portrait gallery. Trying to find something colorful and bright. My Adams is already dark and not lit very well. One of my only games where I have to turn the lights up in order to play. I still do not care for Pinstadiums and would rather turn up ambient light
Has anyone added extra spots, etc. to increase lighting on their Adams?
Who will make me my Thing Pingulp? -This is a high priority and needs immediate attention(honestly a modder would make a killing on these)-make it so
My art blades are hardly noticeable , Why doesn't anybody use Mirror blades, I'm considering this..???
I love the look of mirror blades! Don’t have any yet. My next machine will get them.
Quoted from golfingdad1:My art blades are hardly noticeable , Why doesn't anybody use Mirror blades, I'm considering this..???
Quoted from golfingdad1:My art blades are hardly noticeable , Why doesn't anybody use Mirror blades, I'm considering this..???
Here is what mine looked with minor blades.
Compared to most yours is bright in general, but i do like the mirrors . Mine wouldn't be nearly as bright in the back .
Quoted from golfingdad1:Mine wouldn't be nearly as bright in the back .
It is bright in the back because of adding a led strip mod and that actually is a fantastic idea to light up this game(I know Ler Mods sells them). Did not want to go with Pinstadiums but what Mikespinball has done looks great with the mirror blades-I am leaning towards mirror blades now. Seems like mirror blades were hot for a few years and they faded away with the introduction of art blades.
Also it appears my right side GI is out? I tried to trace wires and look for any loose connections and nothing? I think it is J120 Purple/White? Does anyone know the fuse location possibly or any ideas?
Quoted from golfingdad1:Compared to most yours is bright in general, but i do like the mirrors . Mine wouldn't be nearly as bright in the back .
Quoted from pinmister:It is bright in the back because of adding a led strip mod and that actually is a fantastic idea to light up this game(I know Ler Mods sells them). Did not want to go with Pinstadiums but what Mikespinball has done looks great with the mirror blades-I am leaning towards mirror blades now. Seems like mirror blades were hot for a few years and they faded away with the introduction of art blades.
Also it appears my right side GI is out? I tried to trace wires and look for any loose connections and nothing? I think it is J120 Purple/White? Does anyone know the fuse location possibly or any ideas?
Hi guys,
Its bright in the back due to I took a back board decal to a print shop and had it converted so that it could be back lit. I then bought same size plexiglass, cut it to the same as the wood back board. Mounted them and did two LED 12v strips (separate power source) behind the back board. This really helps light up the back area of the playfield which is very dark.
Did this similar mod to my Congo too.
Quoted from Mikespinball:Here are a few pictures of the process.
Great job it really looks great and brightens up the game. I still may inquire with Rob to get a white LED strip to mount in back shining downwards-it may help brighten the game up a bit.
-I also like your Indiana Jones pinball clock-did you make that too? I have one like it but it is Coca Cola
Quoted from pinmister:Also it appears my right side GI is out? I tried to trace wires and look for any loose connections and nothing? I think it is J120 Purple/White? Does anyone know the fuse location possibly or any ideas?
I found out it is F106 with a MDL 5A
Now my problem is it keeps burning out and I can't seem to find the short? Both my right GI and coindoor are having issues
Quoted from pinmister:I can't seem to find the short?
Pull all the bulbs out for that line. If it doesn't blow F106, then put bulbs back in one at a time. If it blows the fuse with the bulbs out, then unhook one wire from each socket and hook back up one at a time.
These will help you narrow down bad bulb or bad socket.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mikespinball:Here is what mine looked with minor blades. [quoted image][quoted image]
bumpers look a bit like cool ufo's
Quoted from pinmister:I also like your Indiana Jones pinball clock-did you make that too? I have one like it but it is Coca Cola
No I did not, I purchased it many years ago off Ebay when there wasn't any control (licensing control) what people did/made for sale. Cool clock and it's in my surgery room, (what the wife calls it as its very bright in there) pinbal repair/restoration room.
Quoted from Pinhead1982:Met Christopher Lloyd today, he signed my TAF Translite.
Quoted from Pinhead1982:Met Christopher Lloyd today, he signed my TAF Translite.
Super cool!
Quoted from jp1985:He has a great signature.
Just make sure the marker is working. Had him sign my MJF Lloyd photo, and you can barely see it . was a little disappointed, but I wasn't about to tell him
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