(Topic ID: 134019)

Gottlieb System 1 Totem - Player 3 & 4 display problem

By JakeSaintJames

8 years ago



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  • 8 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by ForceFlow
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

Hi everybody, I could use some help figuring out a display problem on my Totem machine. Immediately when I power on the pin, the player 3 & 4 displays shows all ones (111111). I've taken a picture of this and attached it to this message. I've moved the score boards around - swapped 2 & 4, and 1 & 3, and the problem stayed in the same place. I've disconnected one score board at a time, and the problem persisted. So it seems the problem is either in the main board, or the connectors from the main board. I've cleaned all of the edge connectors and re-terminated all of the pins in all of the connectors on the main control board. So now I am thinking I have a problem on the main control board. Everything is fine when I run diagnostics. If I play a 4-player game the displays will begin to operate normally. But up until that point, I get all 1's.

This pin has a Rottendog power supply, and I've moved the battery backup off the main board. Also, after the game boots the credit display shows something funky - in the photo it looks like a 4 with the bottom segment of the 4 missing. That display is fine - there are not four credits in the machine, it's garbage data.

Has anyone seen this problem before? Does anyone know the cause? I want to fix this problem. Thanks much.

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#2 8 years ago

On the credit display , the chip that controls the digit segments is probably bad and needs to be replaced.

For the player 3 & 4 displays, if you move them to the player 1 & 2 positions, does the issue follow the displays? Or, does the issue stay at the player 3 & 4 positions? That will tell you if it's a display issue or a wiring/connector/MPU issue.

This should go without saying, but only disconnect/reconnect displays while the power is off.

#3 8 years ago

Thanks for the tip on the credit display, I'll investigate that.

I swapped the 3 & 4 displays with 1 & 2, and the problem remained with the 3 & 4 displays. So it appears the problem is not related to the displays themselves.

#4 8 years ago

Ok, considering the issue remains with the player 3 & 4 positions, and the digits on the other displays operate correctly, I'd guess that the issue is in the "Segments Group B" on A1J2. Do continuity tests on the wires. Also, consider re-pinning.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Replacing_.28Repinning.29_System_1_Connectors

If those check out and the problem still exists, the issue may be with some chips on the MPU. I don't have a schematic in front of me, but some of the 74xx TTL chips in the upper right corner of the MPU near A1J2 control "Segments Group B"--probably Z16 and Z17, plus a few others. Check to make sure the 5v pin on those chips isn't shorted to any other pins.

#5 8 years ago

I have already repinned all of the connectors on the A1 board. I did a continuity test between all connectors on A1J2 and 3A4J1 and everything is fine. I also made sure chips Z16 and Z17 do not have the 5v pin shorted to ground. I agree this is a "Segments Group B" issue on A1J2.

I decided to trace the problem back from the display. On the display board, chip Z1 (UDN6118A) pin 11 drives the "1" segments. At power on I get 127 V AC there. I see 130 V AC on pin 10, which is the supply voltage. Pin 8 is the input for Pin 11, I get 2.5V DC on pint 8 at power on. This voltage begins to decline, and after a few minutes drops to almost zero.

I traced this back through the connector. On board A1 this is pin 19 on A1-J2 - Segments Group B. But pin 19 isn't driven from one of the 7-segment decoders Z16 or Z17. Pin 19 is driven from Z15, which a 4-input AND gate. Testing that chip, I see the same behavior at power-on. Pin 6 on Z15 immediately gives me 2.5 v at power on, then it slowly drops over time. The four inputs are between 1 and 4 volts. Since at least one input is below 2 volts the output should not be turned on. So I think Z15 is bad.

But here is where I get confused - the output on Z15, pin 6, is also connected to an inverter and a cap and then goes to pin 4 of Z17. So it's possible something along that line is failing, pulling up the voltage at the output of Z15. Does anyone have experience with this? Do 4-input AND gates fail this way, or does someone have another suggestion? I'll resolder Z15 if I have to, but I don't want to start pulling chips off that board willy-nilly, for fear of making things worse.

#6 8 years ago

I checked my copy of the system 1 service manual, but I didn't see a theory of operation for that area of the board.

However, on this site in the "display control" section, there was somewhat of an explanation: http://tuukan.fliput.net/sys1_en.html#cpu

he displays are controlled by U6, with a few TTL IC's. 7-segment decoders Z16 and Z17 take care that the numbers shown look correct - if the displayed numbers look strange then one of these is probably gone. Z16 controls player 1 and 2 displays and the credit display, while Z17 handles player 3 and 4 displays. On score display driving there is a small circuit that makes number 1 to be shown with an extra eighth segment in the middle of the digit instead of the usual two right side segments. This is done with gates Z13/Z14/Z15. Suspect those if there are problems in showing number 1. The displays are multiplexed, meaning one digit at a time is shown. Digit selection signals come from gates Z18..Z21.

According to that, I would try replacing z17, then if that didn't work, replacing z13, z14, and z15. Then if that doesn't work, try replacing z18 and z21.

The one of the cheapest places for 74xx chips I've found is from jameco.com. Also, as long as you're ordering one IC, you might as well get 2 or 3 spares while you're at it since they're cheap enough.

1 week later
#7 8 years ago

Z15 was bad! I replaced the chip and my displays are working fine now. Thanks for your help. Incidentally, when I tested Z15 in a breadboard it operated normally. Clearly that isn't a valid method for testing these TTL chips.

#8 8 years ago

You can use this tester for a variety of TTL chips:
ebay.com link: itm

And while we're talking about testers, this tester for RAM chips:
http://www.neoloch.com/products/NLT-28P-LCD-5S.php

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