(Topic ID: 276915)

Bally switch doing opposite as should - but I'm a newbie.....

By Bandit78

3 years ago



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switch 1 (resized).jpg
#1 3 years ago

On KISS, the K target switch seem to be closed when the target has not closed the circuit. There is sufficient space between the contacts it appears. During idle the light is out of sync with the rest with erratic lighting going on/off. When I push the K target, it then syncs up with the ISS target lites.

During games an almost constant scoring occurs until I push the target...then it stops and the machine plays as normal. I've run the diagnostic test and it comes back with switch 20 being closed (K target), whether the target is pushed in or not.

Just when I think I understand a little something about how switches work, then this happens...,

#2 3 years ago

Did you replace the switch ? If so did you wire it right ?

If problem just started. Then something shorting switch lugs, across the fiber board spacers between the leaf blades, or an issue out on your switch matrix.

LTG : )

#3 3 years ago

I didn't replace the switch. The first pix is the switch that has the false closed signal and the second one is switch that has no problem. When I first tested the machine I had none of these anomalies and the switch test came up clean, but over that last week the problem has went from almost never to just about continuous false closed signal/scoring/activating.

switch 1 (resized).jpgswitch 1 (resized).jpgswitch 2 (resized).jpgswitch 2 (resized).jpg

#4 3 years ago

Try removing the capacitor on it (green blob). Could have gone bad.

Also, are you sure part of this isn't a lamp issue? Does the light work fine in the lamp test?

#5 3 years ago

During the lamp test, the light is in perfect sync.

During idle status, I have to press the K target for this switch in order to sync the light flash pattern with the other 3 (ISS) target lights around the playfield.

I did notice that the other 3 switches have red capacitors, while the faulty one has a green capacitor.

I'm learning as fast as I can, but do I understand the the target switches don't require a capacitor and only the Pop Bumper switches require a capacitor, so I can cut this capacitor off the target switch and not replace it?

#6 3 years ago

You can cut it to see if the problem persists. It will function w/o it, just wont recognize all hits.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Bandit78:

I understand the the target switches don't require a capacitor and only the Pop Bumper switches require a capacitor, so I can cut this capacitor off the target switch and not replace it?

Capacitors are needed for any switch that needs its pulse lengthened - could be pops, could be slings, could be standups. At the dawn of the solid state era they were putting them (erroneously) on lane switches and sometimes drop targets!

But basically it's anything that can get a quick hit and possibly have it not register. The caps involved are really cheap I replace them all when going through a game. They're on the tilt switch also, usually needed there.

#8 3 years ago

Thanks to all on the board and forum for helping me with these newbie growing pains (lights, bad ground, faulty switch..just the first week) as a new owner of one of these delicate machines.

#9 3 years ago

And to be clear, caps are 'needed' on switches that are only hit briefly (like pops or targets) but they're not "NEEDED". the game would still function if all the caps were gone, it's just that some glancing blows/etc wouldn't register. So it's safe to cut a cap on a misbehaving switch. The switch won't act any differently when you're testing it by hand. If that turns out to fix the issue, order a new cap, but you can continue to play the game/etc while you wait for that cap to arrive in the mail

#10 3 years ago

A bad diode on the switch can cause all sorts of erratic scoring behavior. Might as well replace it. Cheap and easy to do, just make sure you run the banded side correctly (same direction as the old one).

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