Quoted from GuiitarMan:I get continuity only on CR1. It has a little corrosion around it as well (as do many of the other solder points on the board).
What is my best course of action knowing I've never done board repair before?
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If CR1 shows full continuity, zero ohm, both ways you put the DMM leads on it it is dead and the reason the fuse is blowing. That diode had previously shorted and someone fixed it in a sloppy manor. Probably without taking the rectifier board out. Almost looks like the wrong kind of solder and/or flux was used.
Considering the shape of the fuse clips and the work at the high voltage diode bridge consider replacing the entire board instead of fixing that. Only issue is that still requires some soldering and board work because the transformer is hard attached to the rectifier board with soldered wires. Cut the wires off the original board one at at time so you don't get mixed up. Strip the end. Solder to the new board.
Perhaps you could send the entire transformer assembly somewhere to be rebuilt / rectifier board replaced. I am not sure if anyone provides that service tho. Heavy to ship but it might fit in a flat rate box.
