Bally Strikes and Spares - Not just for hot redheads Club

(Topic ID: 172139)

Bally Strikes and Spares - Not just for hot redheads Club


By awarner

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 76 posts
  • 30 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 40 days ago by Heaterguy
  • Topic is favorited by 18 Pinsiders

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There are 76 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 1 year ago

Just found a Strikes and Spares project, after looking for years. Drove 6hrs each way, but am happy with what I got. Cabinet has some scrapes and chips, but not faded and no way I'd repaint it. Backglass near perfect. Doesn't work, and MPU has significant corrosion. Playfield is restorable, but worn. I have an NOS PF that I will level the inserts and clear with 2pac. Got the CPR plastics set.

Plan is to repin connectors, rebuild rectifier board, caps on solenoid driver board, etc and get it working dirty. I'll then think about the playfield swap n

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1 month later
#52 1 year ago

I would like to join!

I picked up Playboy and Strikes and Spares not working a couple of weeks ago. I have been working on them a little everyday. Here's my progress.

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1 month later
#53 1 year ago

I've joined the club! Been working on this for a couple of months now and am finishing it up.
Dialing in now and the only problem I have is that when the saucer ejects the ball it goes SDTM every time! Any suggestions on how to resolve this? Playfield is leveled and slope is at 5.6 degrees. Started at 6.1 degrees and it goes SDTM every time.
Any suggestions?

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1 week later
#54 1 year ago

xsvtoys invited me to the Strikes and Spares pages from my price check posting. A S and S popped up on my local Craigs List and the price seemed to be right so I bought it with the thought that I may be able to clean it up and sell and make a little money; I did not buy it as a keeper. I don't have room to set it up until I get another pin back together. I'll know more when I can get it up and playing. Who knows. Maybe I'll try to squeeze more space and keep it.

Anyway, here is a pic of the play field. It just needs some light touch up around a couple of inserts and a good cleaning and it is not all that dirty. I'm toying with the idea of clear coating it since I have some extra automotive clear coat.

The cab is nice an very solid. Not beat up, at all. The back glass is flaked; A repro is needed. Everything worked when I bought it. I just to make some of the parts to work better.

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My favorite pinball plastic: "Back up a little bit, will ya? "

It is just a piece of plastic. Right out in the open. A common view if you are hanging out at the bowling alley. But on this piece of plastic, it is suggestive---but it is not. Is is pure sex---but it is not. A brilliant piece of artwork.

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1 month later
#55 10 months ago

I recently bought a S and S as part of a package. I don't have enough room in my house to keep it but I just got it set up and running and I'm wishing that I could keep it.

It is quite fun to play. It has everything I like in a pinball machine: Fast play and lots of good flipper friendly shots; But there are no easy points.

#56 10 months ago

Love this game. On my want list. I have seen the alternate backglass for this. The girl is topless. Very nice. A vendor had one at PATZ a few years ago.

#57 10 months ago

I had one of these 3 years ago and sold it to fund a dmd machine purchase. I've regretted it ever since. Fast forward to now and I was tagged on Facebook by a fellow pinhead who knew that I was searching for one. I got in contact with the seller and he just happened to have the S and S in the bed of his truck and was passing through on his way home. I checked it out and decided to take it. Backglass is mint , playfield will be an easy resto rest and 2k clear job, the rest needs work. The MPU is toast and the rectifier has a bit of corrosion, the remaining boards are clean. The previous owner cut all of the connectors to the rectifier and direct soldered them, then to detach the head used twist connectors. What a mess. Whole machine needs repinned obviously. My plan board wise is to do the Alltek Trifecta setup and ditch the factory ones.

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#58 10 months ago

That game looks good except for the electronics. I thought my soldering needed improvement, but damn! Good luck w/the game.

1 week later
#59 10 months ago

Just finished up my first cabinet restore. Pinball Pimp stencils are great to work with.

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#60 10 months ago

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#61 10 months ago

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#62 10 months ago

Dang that is SWEET!!!!! With a new backglass and a new playfield mine would be just about perfect if I did the cabinet, I hope to do it some day. You laid it out step by step, it looks doable. (I've never done one before though). Can you ID the paint colors, I can't see them from the pic showing the cans of paint. Does the Pimp tell you exactly what paints to buy?

#63 10 months ago

Mine should get started later this year (I hope). I have the stencils as well. You did an amazing job! Thanks for sharing and motivating us!

#64 10 months ago

Anyone else here prefer chrome legs over the gunmetal factory color? I am contemplating completely chroming out all of the trim and door on my machine. I think it will look amazing

#65 10 months ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Anyone else here prefer chrome legs over the gunmetal factory color? I am contemplating completely chroming out all of the trim and door on my machine. I think it will look amazing

Here's my thoughts. First, it's your game. You can do anything you want to make it look better or whatever. People might criticize you for it, but it's still your game. Now saying that, people need to decide whether they are restoring a game or re-inventing a game.

If you are restoring the game then everything you just said is out. No, you can't do it. And no LEDs either. I just restored a Police Force and took 1st place in restorations at the Atlanta SFGE. It plays like it's 1988 and it just rolled out of the box.

Now the Re-Inventing category. Times have changes since these games were made. Nobody in 1977 would ever see the need to chrome parts that weren't chrome already. Actually, the cost makes it make no sense even today. BUT, it's your game and if you don't care that you might be wasting money to build a game that costs more than it's worth simply because it will look awesome than I think you should go for it. My BOP 2.0 easily has $6K in it with chrome, new art, and MODs. Maybe more. I don't know if I could get it back out but I don't really care because I didn't build it for a profit, I built it to be freaking awesome. It's just like cars really.

2 months later
#66 7 months ago

Does anyone that has done a full resto on one of these by chance have access to a source for obtaining all of the papers that are stapled inside of the backbox?? Mine are all yellowed.

#67 7 months ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Does anyone that has done a full resto on one of these by chance have access to a source for obtaining all of the papers that are stapled inside of the backbox?? Mine are all yellowed.

Backbox cards @ http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

#68 7 months ago

Regarding the saucer kicking the ball down the middle, try a more forgiving angle on the playfield. Mine did the same thing, until I made it less steep.

#69 7 months ago

Thanks a ton much appreciated !!! I had forgotten all about this site

1 month later
#70 6 months ago

Been going steady with this redhead since high school. Used to play it every afternoon after school at the Village Bowling Alley in Cleveland, TN. My wife and I rescued one from a lake house that had collapsed. The pin was in a foot of water and missing the legs. Total train wreck. But my wife restored it over the period of about a year. Now it looks and plays great.

We've put in warm white LED's, new boards, legs, power supply, etc. We decided not to restore the cabinet, but only to clean it up. We like the battle scars-including lots of coin-operator stickers from Texas circa 1979-1983. Reminds me of my misspent youth.

And it's a fast, fun game--one of the best from the solid state era.

Les & Abby Rayburn
Maylene, AL

2 months later
#71 3 months ago

I sold my game a few years ago and I’m starting a new one. It should be amazing when it’s done.
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2 weeks later
#72 78 days ago

Driving home with a project S & S.
Missing backglass & Boards but Playfield and cabinet is in okay shape and I didn't give much for it. Any suggestions on where to find a backglass and boards?

#73 78 days ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

Driving home with a project S & S.
Missing backglass & Boards but Playfield and cabinet is in okay shape and I didn't give much for it. Any suggestions on where to find a backglass and boards?

BG Resto

http://bgresto.com/

Scroll down. It is on file.

#74 78 days ago

Thanks, unfortunately I may scrap it for parts, I could fix it but Its missing more parts than it will be worth, unless I can find used parts.
Paid $125- PF "decent" condition, plastics filthy but not cracked. Jet bumper caps have burnt spots. Coin door legs dirty but good condition. Cabinet Fair condition. Displays intact, 1 has been replaced. Wiring harness hacked.

MISSING:
Backglass-$230
Transformer $100
MPU board $200
Lamp board $120
Solenoid board $150
Rectifier board $100
Rubber kit/Jet caps/new Mylars/Misc-$75
Multiple shipping charges $75
Displays????? (Prolly need replaced)

All in, best case, With original PF...

$1,175

And that is $0 FOR ALL MY LABOR, and no $ for displays.

I hate it but I may have to part this one out.

One thing that is cool, there is a date scratched in the head that says Wheaton 4/23/79. I purchased the machine not far from Chicago and it was built there so it probably has not left the region in its entire lifetime.

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1 month later
#75 47 days ago

I’ve been working on my playfield swap.

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1 week later
#76 40 days ago

Pwr supply/fuse board showed up today! Previously bought selenoid and lamp board off eBay . Only one more piece to the puzzle... mpu board. I can't remember now but I researched it and had a couple options which one should I get?
Also, the boards that I bought on eBay do not have steel or alum posts where the screws bolt them down on opposite corners of lamp board and Driver board. I am not sure, do I need to have spacers because the plastic insert circuit board holders hold them off of the Rails so I would think I need spacers behind the circuit board on the screws. Any suggestions as to where to find something like this? Ace Hardware?
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