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(Topic ID: 317133)
Linked Games
Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980-
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
-
Black Jack
Bally, 1978
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Black Pyramid
Bally, 1984
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BMX
Bally, 1982
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Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
-
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
-
Centaur
Bally, 1981
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Springfield, VA
Quoted from Mudflaps:Is it possible to grab just one 6 digit display? I have LED displays in Medusa but I thought this might be fun for the main playfield.
Yes, but I need to just test one in the medusa playfield. I’ll aim to do that in the next few days.
Does the splash screen only appear when first turning on the game? Or will the display cycle through in attract mode? For instance, can I configure each player's display with a different word so Player 1 "Welcome", player 2 "to my", player 3 "arcade", and player 4 "room" can combine and display a message when you turn it on, and then cycle through HSTD, last played, and splash?
Quoted from Geocab:Does the splash screen only appear when first turning on the game? Or will the display cycle through in attract mode? For instance, can I configure each player's display with a different word so Player 1 "Welcome", player 2 "to my", player 3 "arcade", and player 4 "room" can combine and display a message when you turn it on, and then cycle through HSTD, last played, and splash?
you can put different images as splash screen images on each display - so yes you could create that. However, Splash is only once on startup. There is not really enough time to display hstd, last game scores and the splash screens when in attract mode.
I’ll add it to the future enhancements list though - there may be a way……
Quoted from AlanJ:you can put different images as splash screen images on each display - so yes you could create that. However, Splash is only once on startup. There is not really enough time to display hstd, last game scores and the splash screens when in attract mode.
I’ll add it to the future enhancements list though - there may be a way……
No problem. Thank you.
Couple of little construction tips:
Use two pairs of Pliers to pull out the Keying pin on the 0.156" headers. Use one to hold the plastic and the other to pull on the pin:
IMG_4058 (resized).jpeg
I've found electricians insulation tape the best to use as a temporary holder for the displays. (I don't like to stick them down permanently until I have tested).
It's enough just to tape the top of the display, so I can see most of the screen for testing.
IMG_4060 (resized).jpeg
IMG_4061 (resized).jpeg
I've created splash screens for all the games I have, Plus a Generic Bally One.
For each Game I have created a matching Set of 6 or 7 Images for the four player Score displays.
For the Credit / Match / BIP Display, because only 4 Digits are visible, I have created a "Single" Image.
E.g. - Lost World:
pasted_image (resized).png
Then a Single Image for the CMBIP:
splash1 (resized).jpg
EDIT:
Now Added Star Trek and Flash Gordon.
Now added splash screen images for these games:
8 Ball Deluxe
8 Ball Deluxe LE
Centaur
Dolly Parton
Elektra
Fathom
Fireball II
Flash Gordon
Future Spa
Harlem Globetrotters
Kiss
Lost World
Medusa
Paragon
Skateball
Space Invaders
Spectrum
Star Trek
Xenon
I will create more in future. We need good images of either backglass, cabinet art or flyer to create these.
I’ll test the displays in Xenon. Besides Medusa, which you already tested, that’s the only Bally I currently have set up.
I have three classic Sterns set up that I will test: Star Gazer, Quicksilver and Freefall.
I should have flyers for the entire classic Stern lineup, and I’m building a WinXP computer so I can try my HP 4760 scanner for additional art. Some of the Stern flyers aren’t as nice as the Bally flyers were.
Quoted from dothedoo:I’ll test the displays in Xenon. Besides Medusa, which you already tested, that’s the only Bally I currently have set up.
I have three classic Sterns set up that I will test: Star Gazer, Quicksilver and Freefall.
I should have flyers for the entire classic Stern lineup, and I’m building a WinXP computer so I can try my HP 4760 scanner for additional art. Some of the Stern flyers aren’t as nice as the Bally flyers were.
That sounds good. I’ve no stern games anymore so have not tried in any stern games yet.
Note: Pins 11 & 12 will need bridging on the 0.156” header in order for the 7th digit to work on Stern 7 digit games. (I’ll add a jumper to a future board revision).
I had a query from a couple of UK people who have received their kits and have built them.
They were concerned that the right hand display flickers when in setup mode. This is normal. (the display is blanked and refreshed too often - i’ll stop it happening in a later release).
Quoted from AlanJ:Via messaging on here, paypal for payment.
Congrats on what looks to be a very cool new product. I think the correct way to sell these on Pinside is by setting up a business tied to your account and adding them as a product to your storefront. I've been selling daughterboards through the Pinside market since the feature was first added - it's very easy. That will get you CC processing via Stripe which is much less expensive than PayPal for moving money - especially international transactions. You may also want to look in to creating a multi-currency account at wise.com (a UK company, I believe) - their cross-currency fees are well below any other options.
-Rob
-visit https://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement Type 1 Sound Board for classic Williams games
Quoted from AlanJ:Added more splash screens:
8 Ball
Evel Kneivel
Mata Hari
Night Rider
Strikes n Spares
Playboy
Where are you adding these?
Quoted from AlanJ:I've checked all my bally games and nothing seems to use the ball counter digit when a game is in progress, i.e. they all show 1,2,3,4,5 etc for the ball in play. Some games do write to it at the end of the game when it shows the random sequence of match numbers - centaur, fathom, fireball II. but that isn't an issue for me, as it only occurs for a second or two before ending then game and then dripping into "game over" mode, at which time the match number selected always ends in a zero on the ball in play digit (far rightmost digit on the display).
On the bally games I have, nothing seems to use the display for any other purpose? I wonder if it is on stern games? Regretting that I sold my stern games.......
My Medusa has an alltek board, I wonder if this is why it's switching very quickly. Checked the jumpers on the alltek - set to bally/stern mpu100 not to stern mpu200
I've also checked out centaur, fathom and fireball II and they have a much slow cycle between HSTD and last game scores, - all using original bally mpu boards.
check the display interrupt speed. I noticed things like the speed the feature lamps dance, delay between chime bells, and etc is effected by it, probably the displays too. Six digit display games interrupt for displays less often than seven. ~320hz vs ~420hz or so I think it is.
The cpu clock speed might be slightly different too. The original target seems to be 0.895mhz for MPU200 and 0.5mhz for bally/MPU100.
Quoted from AlanJ:I emailed you a link a few days ago - they are in the "SD Card Images/splash screens" folder from that link.
Sending you a PM.
Quoted from AlanJ:Added more splash screens:
8 Ball
Evel Kneivel
Mata Hari
Night Rider
Strikes n Spares
Playboy
Where's KISS?
This is my first big solder project with PCBs. Previous was just reflowing pins and replacing transistors.
What solder iron tip size is best, solder type/gauge, and temperature for the iron is best for building these?
Quoted from chuckwurt:This is my first big solder project with PCBs. Previous was just reflowing pins and replacing transistors.
What solder iron tip size is best, solder type/gauge, and temperature for the iron is best for building these?
I have best luck using a screwdriver tip, just a bit wider than a pencil tip. Somewhere between 600-700 degrees is probably best.
Quoted from dothedoo:I have best luck using a screwdriver tip, just a bit wider than a pencil tip. Somewhere between 600-700 degrees is probably best.
I use a fine tip for most of the soldering. the transistor has the 3 closest legs. best to solder the middle leg first.
for the 0.156” header, a larger tip is better
Good luck with all the builds everyone who has received theirs. Just a quick note:
One person built theirs earlier this week and tried a single unit in several of his games, it didn't work when installed alongside the 4 original displays. But removing them, made it work. I've not experienced this on any of my games, although I have to admit that all mine had LED score displays in them, and the new displays happily work alongside those. I checked with one of the UK guys, who built and installed his in Flash Gordon with original displays, he didn't have the issue.
Just something to watch out for.
I'll test one of my games over the weekend if I can find some original displays........(Ive got a box of them stashed somewhere......)
Quoted from Randy_G:It will be there a while...believe me
Tracking says it has cleared customs this morning. I was hoping to have a project for the weekend, but I'm guessing it'll have until wait to next week. My original displays are fine anyway, but this is such a cool kit I want to upgrade.
Quoted from chuckwurt:This is my first big solder project with PCBs. Previous was just reflowing pins and replacing transistors.
What solder iron tip size is best, solder type/gauge, and temperature for the iron is best for building these?
I bought this solder when I built my Wolfpac Displays for Barracora and it flowed like a dream. I had my soldering station set to 650. Used a small tip, T18-D16.
Quoted from Geocab:I bought this solder when I built my Wolfpac Displays for Barracora and it flowed like a dream. I had my soldering station set to 650. Used a small tip, T18-D16.
amazon.com link »
Quoted from Geocab:I bought this solder when I built my Wolfpac Displays for Barracora and it flowed like a dream. I had my soldering station set to 650. Used a small tip, T18-D16.
amazon.com link »
I think it depends a lot on the soldering iron type and tip. I use a fine tip on a Hakko and need to run at 720 just to get a nice flow.
I do most of my soldering at 400 Centigrade = 750F - not yet destroyed anything, sometime drop to 300 for delicate stuff. I've built 30 of these displays all on the higher setting. No issues.
Just found a couple of 7 digit orange HV displays - put them in fathom and all worked ok with the new displays.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I have the popular hakko blue station.
Me too.
Quoted from dothedoo:Received the kits yesterday. The package was beat up pretty badly, but it doesn’t look like anything was damaged. [quoted image][quoted image]
Can you photo the damaged package with the label showing? if you still have it? if anything IS damaged I can then put in a claim
Quoted from AlanJ:Good luck with all the builds everyone who has received theirs. Just a quick note:
One person built theirs earlier this week and tried a single unit in several of his games, it didn't work when installed alongside the 4 original displays. But removing them, made it work. I've not experienced this on any of my games, although I have to admit that all mine had LED score displays in them, and the new displays happily work alongside those. I checked with one of the UK guys, who built and installed his in Flash Gordon with original displays, he didn't have the issue.
Just something to watch out for.
I'll test one of my games over the weekend if I can find some original displays........(Ive got a box of them stashed somewhere......)
Did a bit more testing, it seems the C/M/BIP original 6 digit display causes some issues? Not sure why. I know these displays have pins 10,11,12 all joined together - pin 10 the blanking line and pin 12 the 7 digit line on a 7 digit display, but pretty sure the backbox wiring deals with this and sticks the 7th digit line wire into the spare "KEY" pin at 14, so it doesn't get dragged down by the 6 digit display. (This is why if you ever have put a 6 digit display in a 7 digit game in P1,2,3,4 slots you will notice it messes up the first digit on any other 7 digit displays in the game - it lights up with zero all the time).
I cant see anything else in the 6 digit schematic or on the board that would interfere with anything? Bit stumped.
I'll do some testing tomorrow and look at the data lines with and without an original 6 digit display in the CMBIP space.
This is probably a moot point because generally you're all going to be installing a full set of 5 new displays, so it's a non issue really. Although one person was talking about just putting the colourclassic display in the playfield in medusa......Hmmm......
Quoted from chuckwurt:I have the popular hakko blue station.
I have two of the Hakko Solder Stations and two of their Desolder guns. I have had some issues each of them, but they are great tools. However, after my second solder station started shorting out... mind you, these tools get used every single day, sometimes for hours at a time... I decided to try a cheaper alternative. Plus I needed a surface mount setup as well.
I have been using this for the last 3 months and so far I love it! The accessories that came with it are garbage, but the station itself works great!
Lots of soldering - 750 is the right temp for 60/40 lead solder - be sure to use a fume fan!
I created a quick 3D printed guide to aid in aligning the displays. You can find it here:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ql0t2pOalzC1roXklp2KkJCo9PTJiCjC?usp=sharing
IMG_2496 Large (resized).jpegQuoted from jturner:Lots of soldering - 750 is the right temp for 60/40 lead solder - be sure to use a fume fan!
I created a quick 3D printed guide to aid in aligning the displays. You can find it here:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ql0t2pOalzC1roXklp2KkJCo9PTJiCjC?usp=sharing[quoted image]
That's really cool John, now we need someone to do a 7 digit version too. 
Another quick tip for builders:
You can test and setup your new display simply by powering it from a 5v supply. e.g. usb to micro usb cable from your laptop. It's a lot easier than plugging it into your game.
Note: The display will stay on the splash screen as it waits to get some score data before removing the splash screen, but you should be able to enter the setup menu by pressing (for about 1/3 sec or more) and then releasing the "boot" button on the esp32s board. You can then go though the setup menus and configure the display. You should also see digits displayed whilst you do this.
Note button presses:
a short press < 300ms will change the setting value
long press > 300ms < 3 secs, moves to next menu
really long press > 3 secs is useful on some settings - e.g. setting the font - the really long press will reset the value to 0 (so it saves you having to press all the way through all the 61 fonts to get back to zero! It also works on the GameID setting.
Hope this helps.
Alan
Quoted from AlanJ:Did a bit more testing, it seems the C/M/BIP original 6 digit display causes some issues? Not sure why. I know these displays have pins 10,11,12 all joined together - pin 10 the blanking line and pin 12 the 7 digit line on a 7 digit display, but pretty sure the backbox wiring deals with this and sticks the 7th digit line wire into the spare "KEY" pin at 14, so it doesn't get dragged down by the 6 digit display. (This is why if you ever have put a 6 digit display in a 7 digit game in P1,2,3,4 slots you will notice it messes up the first digit on any other 7 digit displays in the game - it lights up with zero all the time).
I cant see anything else in the 6 digit schematic or on the board that would interfere with anything? Bit stumped.
I'll do some testing tomorrow and look at the data lines with and without an original 6 digit display in the CMBIP space.
This is probably a moot point because generally you're all going to be installing a full set of 5 new displays, so it's a non issue really. Although one person was talking about just putting the colourclassic display in the playfield in medusa......Hmmm......
Did a lot more testing on this. In my fathom, with any 2 old HV score displays in, the CCSDisplays work fine. As soon as I add a 3rd original display, they stop working. it's nothing to do with the 6 digit CMBIP display. I had that in along with a 7 digit display - worked fine, as soon as I added another 7 digit display - stopped working - removing any one of the 3 and it works again.
If anyone wants to 3-d print a guide - here are board layouts in mm:
144 total board length (mm)
63 total board height (mm)
display rectangle is 29mm X 17.8 wide.
display rectangle start 10mm down from the top edge
6 digit display:
6 left margin
17.8 display width
5.2 gap
17.8 display width
5.2 gap
17.8 display width
5.2 gap
17.8 display width
5.2 gap
17.8 display width
5.2 gap
17.8 display width
5.2 right margin
144 TOTAL
7 digit display:
3 left margin
17.8 display width
2.2 gap
17.8 display width
2.2 gap
17.8 display width
2.2 gap
17.8 display width
2.2 gap
17.8 display width
2.2 gap
17.8 display width
2.2 gap
17.8 display width
3.2 right margin
144 TOTAL
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