(Topic ID: 163768)

Bally Standup Targets Struck too quickly to register!


By bdPinball

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by bdPinball
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“Disregarding the fact that Spy Hunter has NOTHING to do with the video game, Is the game still cool? (It has *5* specials after all!)”

  • This Game Rivals anything the pinball God Ritchie ever created. This game is up there with the Bally greats of this Era- Eight Ball Deluxe, Fathom, and Xenon. 0 votes
  • This Game is good, but it's not spectacular. Sure, it's got LOTS of specials, and multiple toys, but the drain and offset flipper placement are hard to overlook. 3 votes
    75%
  • This game is awful, the previous name before some Einstein in management decided on the name change was 'Drain City.' What a shame they had to sully the good Spy Hunter name. 1 vote
    25%

(4 votes by 0 Pinsiders)

Topic Gallery

There have been 4 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

image_(resized).jpeg
image_(resized).jpg
image_(resized).jpg
Screenshot_20160708-020635_(resized).png

#1 2 years ago

I have a Spy Hunter, which, we'll reserve the argument about if it's a "good" game or not, I like it- Especially since it's in my collection. that said-

The game has an upper mini-playfield area with two mini-flippers, and around the edge of the mini-playfield are stand up targets spelling out "AgentGK" With a captive ball (They refer to it as a "Boop" ball, for what reason I can only guess - Trademark infrigement?) Anyway, when you get to wailing on those stand up targets, 3 out of 4 times they don't register because it seems like the ball bounces off them too quickly to make contact.

Should there be some resisters, or maybe capacitors, or little pieces of chewing gum, or- I'm not sure what the fix is. Obviously I'm not too much of an Electronics guy, but I DO know what a transistor does.

Anyone have any fixes for this type of rapid switch registration problem?

-bdpinball

#2 2 years ago

Don't know if yours has them, but capacitors were used at the switch to lengthen the time the MPU has to see a switch closure. They were often disconnected when they failed. Other than that, check for dirty, misadjusted switches....

#3 2 years ago

The schematics show that there should be a .05mfd cap across those switches.

Replace even the ones that are still attached, as they were junk and always go bad.

#4 2 years ago

Capacitors? Okay.. I'll have to check that out.

#5 2 years ago

You may find that the caps have one leg cut, because they have shorted out.

Or they may have been cut out altogether.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stand-up-target-faces-vids-guide

#6 2 years ago

Lots of ops cut them off on route because they failed.
If they fail switches won't register.
If you cut off one leg of a bad cap. The switch will magically work again. But quick hits won't register.

Screenshot_20160708-020635_(resized).png

#8 2 years ago

Well that is freakin' awesome! Thanks for that pic!

Let's see here...... Mine? No caps left at all! I was going to try to capture where they chopped them off, but we know they did. It's another example of "Chop instead of repair" where someone removes the offending part, system, score reel, or knocker in order to "fix" the problem. This is my pet peeve personal drum that I can't help but beat from time to time.

Anyone know the value of these caps? They look small, but then again today ALL components are small!

I'll see if IMDb, err IPdb has the drawrings.

-dp

image_(resized).jpg

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from bdPinball:

Anyone know the value of these caps?

-

Quoted from vid1900:

The schematics show that there should be a .05mfd cap across those switches.

#11 2 years ago

Really? Because Radio SHAFT sure lived up to their name! 4 for 5 bucks!!!

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from bdPinball:

Really? Because Radio SHAFT sure lived up to their name! 4 for 5 bucks!!!

That's the overhead needed to keep the world's worst cell phone store open.

"Radio Shack. You've got questions, we've got cell phones."

#13 2 years ago

Okay, installed them, here's the pic... Does it still work?? Is the problem any better??

YES! The problem is fixed on those 4 switches I put the caps on. I'll have to find the better deal on caps, Radio Shack is strictly last resort emergency time.

Regarding the difference in play its unbelievable! Possibly some of the reason this game gets such a bum rap? The more I play it the more I like it! Particularly when something big like this happens in the playability of a game. That non registering targets thing is REALLY annoying!! The back targets seem to be the worst I guess since they get hit with the most force comming off those tiny flippers.

--

On another subject, is that little notch in the bottom of the playfield there for a place to set the playfield? The table will lick in there, and be held up by the weight of itself but I cannot imagine that is what they had In mind. What is this for ? As a matter a fact, what is with The myriad of cutout patterns for the side pieces on the inside if the table that support the table in both the "playing" and "service" modes, some, like this have a place for the game to rest in the service position, where most older games just gave one straight rail. What gives? Especially with some
Of the newer games, like my big guns where the pivot point has been moved from the end of the table, or to pivot at all, to nearly in the middle of he table!

-dp

image_(resized).jpg

image_(resized).jpeg

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from bdPinball:

Possibly some of the reason this game gets such a bum rap?

The game had them from the factory, but it just was not a popular game, even when it was new.

The video game it was based on was very popular.

-

PS; next time shorten the leads from those caps. If they get bent over, the switch will be stuck on.

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The game had them from the factory, but it just was not a popular game, even when it was new.
The video game it was based on was very popular.

Well the Video Game was good!! Not saying this game is BAD, but it doesn't rise to the same level of the video game. I remember I was disappointed at the half-hearted attempt at somehow using some aspect of the video game in the Pinball game. Heck, I don't see how the pictures of the people on the backglass, the airplane, or the woman shooting the gun has ANYTHING to do with the video game! I'm not exactly sure how the a concept of a good video game which Spy Hunter was for it's class, combat driving games - It was pretty damned good! But yes, they would have been much better off to NOT use the Spy Hunter name if nothing else not to get people's hopes up!

Interestingly, I just looked this game up, and apparently it was designed by Greg Kmiec. Mr. Kmiec also designed Old Chicago. This might explain the non-standard layout at the bottom of the playfield that apparently is something he employs from time to time. Although I looked at many other games he created, Xenon, Kings of Steel, Night Rider,

-
PS; next time shorten the leads from those caps. If they get bent over, the switch will be stuck on.

Ack! I hadn't even thought of that. Okay, next couple I put in I'll make sure to do that. I touched them pulling on them to make sure they were soldered into the joint, and they were pretty solid, I don't think it's like they'll fall over or something on their own, however I DO know I have a habit of working on one thing, and bumping, and bending other components by being clumsy. Sometimes, trying to keep all of it perfect, so that no pieces touch any other pieces, and you don't bump another piece, or un-solder the other bundle of wires while you're trying to put the other one on there. That kinda crap happens to me all the time. It's when you need a 3rd, and sometimes 4th hand. I have one of those things from radio shack, but those things usually need a base to set on. Does anyone have any solutions for holding two wires, solder, and the solder Iron/Gun so all of it touches at the right place, and amount at the right time?

Again, thanks for the suggestion. I'm not exactly NEW to electronics, I guess you might just say I'm a little slow sometimes when it comes to electronic theory. I guess that's okay, I'm not really a Trigonometry star either. Get me a compiler, and some code, and a database, and then I'm in my element. Sometimes it's the physical world I have a little problem with.

-dp

#16 2 years ago

The dip in the support is for when the playfield is in the open position, propped up with the bar, and the flat portion is not only a playfield support but some also choose to tilt the playfield up against the head and this is deemed "the full service position", just be careful it doesn't fall off of the track (that design doesn't look that great, Gottlieb had wonderful metal ones) or back down onto your head/fingers/itself.

In the last picture you had pulled it too far and the only point where you would pull it that far was if you were removing the playfield itself after unplugging its connectors.

All/most games had the dip. Service bar should be on the right side of the cabinet one end resting against the bottom of the cabinet, other side secured into the side of the cabinet, and this is what holds it in that position.

EDIT: I see you have 9 games. Am I missing something? I feel like we may not be on the same page, which notch exactly are you talking about?

#17 2 years ago

I don't have any Gottlieb. Interesting though. Sure, I have first Hank knowledge of having the playfield "fall" out of full service mode... Thank god it was an older more sturdy game. Has there ever been an instance of a death by pinball?

On older games, when the full service position has the table only in a slight over center mode.. I have taken to wrapping a piece of rope carefully around the table so it won't fall on me and destroy itself of my tender backside!

On this game, the "Notch" to which I speak, is down in the crux of the corner there, if you zoom in, you see a sort of U Shaped notch that the edge of the table would fit into. If you put it into that notch, the table will hold itself up! Because there is no other support, I cannot believe this is what they had in mind. However if you put the table into that notch, the angle of the table doesn't match whe height that the bar meets the underside of the table! What is this notch for? I have never seen this U shaped notch on any other game I've ever seen, albeit not THAT many, but I might have seen 20..

I'll try to make sure the angle of the table in the "notch" is not the Same as the setting when supported by the bar

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 16.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 14.50
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Athens, OH
From: $ 155.00
€ 3.95
Flipper Parts
Multigame
From: $ 149.95
From: $ 45.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
$ 13.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
From: $ 140.00

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside