(Topic ID: 288694)

Bally SS solenoids dead — HELP!

By EMDude

1 year ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by pins4u
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 1 year ago

    #StrikesandSpares

    The good: Boots up (7 flashes on MPU), takes credits, starts game, scores fine, lights work in both attract mode and during game play.

    The not so good: The only solenoids that work are the flippers, no kickers, no out hole, no chimes, etc.

    I replaced the 11,000uf cap and a missing TIP102 transistor on the driver board and used a test lead to check each transistor to ground. All 4 chimes fire as does the coin lock and the relay on the driver board, but nothing else. Is it possible that 13 of the 19 TIP102 transistors are bad?

    Also I have an Alltek Ultimate Solenoid Driver Board that I popped in and it won’t even boot with it in, I just get a solid LED on the MPU

    Any suggestions would be appreciated!

    5D7C9329-B274-42AB-B3F6-D90DE305D3E1 (resized).jpeg

    #2 1 year ago

    Maybe a stupid question : have you checked the fuses ?

    #3 1 year ago

    Check the fuse under the playfield first.

    #4 1 year ago

    So sure enough 2A under playfield fuse was blown, I replaced then manually tested each solenoid (from transistor to ground) and they all fire!

    Problem is on boot and on game start the out hole and saucer solenoids fire a bunch of times erratically, flippers are live all of the time, but no other solenoids work. Also closing any playfield switch causes only these two solenoids to fire.

    #5 1 year ago

    If you remove the ball from the game and put it into switch test, do any numbers come up on the displays? It should show a zero (indicating no switches are closed).

    #6 1 year ago

    Switch test displays zero, and all switch numbers display properly when activated.

    Solenoid test: As it auto walks through them, out hole fires on 1, 5 and 7; and saucer fires on 2, 3, 4 and 6 but no other solenoids fire as display counts up.

    #7 1 year ago

    Hmm, weird problem. Have you had this game for a while or did you pick it up recently?

    I would try reseating connector J4 on the MPU and J4 on the solenoid driver board. Does this game have original boards or aftermarket?

    #8 1 year ago

    Check the connectors (J4 on mpu and J3 on Solenoid driver board) a bad ground can cause the solenoids not to fire and the ground loops back in J3 and it is common to have bad pins in that connector.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from Xenon75:

    Check the connectors (J4 on mpu and J3 on Solenoid driver board) a bad ground can cause the solenoids not to fire and the ground loops back in J3 and it is common to have bad pins in that connector.

    Also have seen the Altek SDB not give out enough 5v to boot the mpu as a result of a bad J3 connector.

    #10 1 year ago

    Do yourself a favor & just re-pin ALL of the board connectors. Solid advice I got from Clay H years ago

    2 months later
    #11 1 year ago

    New issue with this S&S, game plays great with new power, driver and MPU boards, but about every 3 or 4 games the 100’s just starts scoring and I have to power down to get it to stop.

    While it was happening I disconnected J3 plug on the MPU which stopped it, eliminating that as the problem.

    I don’t think it’s a stuck p/f switch because it plays fine sometimes. I think it may be a bad disc capacitor on a switch. I have new replacements, is there any easy way to test them while in the game with my multimeter?

    #12 1 year ago

    You won't be able to test caps with a multimeter unless they are shorted - unlikely in this case. They only cost pennies each, I would grab a handful and replace them all.

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