I've started repairing a Spy Hunter I picked up last year. First of all I repaired the power module all voltages were good so I plugged in the other plugs and fired it up. C10 popped on the cheap squeak deluxe but I got 7 flashes on the mpu. So it went into attract mode and coined up but no sound. I pulled off the sound board replaced c10 plugged it in to test before I mounted it and I got some sounds so I mounted it and c10 blew as well as one of the fuses on the power module. So it seems that the board is grounding off of something also the button on the coin door for going through the test modes isn't working. I tried using a different working mpu with no change. I checked continuity on the wires in the switch and I was able to trace one of them all the way to the backbox but not the other so I'm guessing there's a break possibly but I'm not 100% sure that I got the right wire in the backbox. At this point I'm not 100% on where I should start but I'm sure someone on here can point me in the right direction thanks in advance
Jim

#spyhunter

When you say sbd @ j2 you're referencing the solenoid board and not the sound board correct? The wire for the switch that goes to the MPU was good to the plug ar least I was planning on repinning the mpu and solenoid boards here's the bottom of the sound board

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Sounds good I'll do that when I get home.

It didn't blow till I mounted it to the backbox as far as c10 goes so I'm guessing something else is shorted to ground idk

Well I did take note of the + when I installed it I have two cheap squeaks and they both did the same thing the other one caught fire and took out c9 and the two ground components on the other side of it and that's before I replaced any of them

So I was able to ground pin 1 on j3 and get into the various test modes. So at least I know the mpu is in good working order so I'm guessing there's a break in the wire or a bad connector. I also replaced that cap at c10 but as soon as I mount it and turn it on F3 blows I'm going to repin the sound board and replace the plug hopefully that resolves part of the problem What's my new step?

The cap is 25v sometimes I need to wiggle the plug to get it working properly so I'm guessing there is a pin that isn't making good contact I'll take a photo of the plug after work today

The plug is keyed so I can't plug it in any other way there is nothing on the backside sticking out
I'm not 100% on checking the ohms on the 12 however

I'm thinking there maybe some interior damage on the plug I'm going to plug it in with the power off and check for continuity from wire to wire as well

Here's the photos of the plug

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I went over the joints with fresh solder

So I went over the top of the solder joints on top of the board as well on a whim and bingo no more blown fuses so it appears that is fixed now as well so now I just have to figure out where the issue is with the test switch and finally the lamps that are out on the lamp board thanks for the help so far so good fellas

Got the playfield all cleaned up novused the playfield and polished the plastics with new rubber it coins up and kicks the ball out but none of the other solenoids work flippers etc neither do any of the targets register and points I guessing something on the solenoid board possibly ?

Yeah the coil test works 100% when I go into test mode but nothing once a game starts and if I hit any targets rollover etc nothing happens no sound or scores are registered

I swapped mpus with no change I'll take a look at that connector to see if there is any cold solder