(Topic ID: 300051)

Bally Speakeasy, no High voltage

By DropTarget

4 months ago

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  • 13 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by DropTarget
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#1 4 months ago

Hi All,

Here's the history....

I have a Bally Speakeasy. The control lights, attract mode and roulette wheel were not working. I found a bad bridge rectifier on the transformer board and replaced it. After that, the existing problems were still there, but now no displays (the bottom display has a glow, but the score display's don't), the game won't boot up and the test button doesn't do anything.

It seems as though machine was not getting 43VDC, the only correct voltage on the rectifier board was at TP1. No voltage at J5 across green and orange wires.

In order to help troubleshoot (I knew it would be fruitless), I replaced the rectifier board with a new one with no change to the symptoms.

Any suggestions as to where to go from here? I'm trying to hunt down a transformer, but it seems unlikely that a transformer would go bad.


#2 4 months ago

Have you followed the steps in pinwiki? It will keep you from shotgunning.

Basically, disconnect all boards but rectifier board, get those voltages right first.

#3 4 months ago

test your AC voltages from your transformer

#4 4 months ago

I would check your solenoid driver board, after you rule out the rectifier board and transformer. The display HV is generated/adjusted there, and the 5v has to go through it to get to the MPU

#5 4 months ago


#6 4 months ago


#7 4 months ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

test your AC voltages from your transformer

Funny thing.....

II wasn't getting voltage across red/red or green/orange wires on J5. Today I am. I suspect that I was looking for DC instead of AC.

Voltages are correct at rectifier board test points now.

#8 4 months ago

Move onto the next board.... solenoid driver. (Nothing else connected just rectifier board and solenoid driver.)

Have you done anything with the connectors yet? (Repin, update solenoid driver board connector)

If you do find your HV section is bad on the SDB, rebuild it all at once if you do one component at a time it could blow the new components as you put them in.

#9 4 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Have you followed the steps in pinwiki? It will keep you from shotgunning.

Unfortunately, Pinwiki doesn't explain the procedure for -54 rectifier boards

#10 4 months ago

The steps are generic assuming Billc479 means what I think he does.... start with rectifier/transformer. Get everything solid there (which you said you did with the new board right? Got all the right voltages going?). Then hook up the solenoid driver board, do that. Then the mpu board. Then the lamp board. Then the aux lamp board. Then the sound board last. Then the displays.

The original -54 boards are labeled on the bridges with "AC" on the board so you can test between those 2. The other AC points you will have to look at the schematic and traces to test. There's going to be a learning curve on this, I don't believe that pinwiki lists a step by step test here, test here, etc. for the -18 rectifier board either (if it does apologizes in advance). Time to learn how to match what's on the schematic to what you're doing with the meter in real life. Maybe take some pics along the way and when it's correct, update pinwiki (or here, for that matter.)

Rule of thumb for putting your meter in AC or DC - if it's input to bridges, (note that 4 discrete diodes are also a bridge, just without a case) it's AC. If it's output from bridges, it's DC.

#11 4 months ago


All TPs appear to be within limits on rectifier, lamp driver, solenoid driver and MPU (Alltek) boards. However MPU is not booting. +5V light is lit, but the self test light flashes 4 times instead of 7.

#12 4 months ago

telling you PIA is bad. (or if the first flash is the flicker which it is sometimes depending on the board) then the 5101/nvram is bad

flicker=board booted
1st=rom checksum test pass
2nd=6810 ram test pass
3rd=5101 ram test pass
4th=u10 pia test pass
5th=u11 pia test pass
6th=display interrupt pass
7th=zero crossing interrupt pass

luckily Alltek has a lifetime warranty.

#13 4 months ago


turns out was a loose J4 connector on the lamp driver board.

Thanks for all of the good advice, it will be helpful in the future, I'm sure.

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