Space invaders Owners Club And Restorations Fans Also Welcome.

(Topic ID: 25089)

Space invaders Owners Club And Restorations Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

6 years ago

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  • 271 posts
  • 62 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 days ago by Pinballgeek
  • Topic is favorited by 28 Pinsiders


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#64 3 years ago

Joined the club last night, just brought home a project. Perfect backglass and nice playfield. Can't wait to dig in and see what's what. I've done a few early Ballys so this shouldn't be too difficult to get going.



#68 3 years ago

In the process of unraveling some hacks in the transformer area. Can any SI owners tell me what these extra fuses are for!? ...or take a photo. Maybe I am just overlooking something in the schematics. I'm kind of at a stopping point so this would be appreciated.


#70 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

These are NOT original equipment. My guess would be that the card where they normally sit is so zapped they moved them? A picture of that would be helpful. The card that is wired to the transformer, that is.

That's what I figured. They were not shown on the schematics and values are 10A. I found them to GI returns running back to the transformer. This will get all fixed right when I get my repin kit for the rectifier board. Thanks.

#72 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Aha! I'm gonna make another guess that there is an unresolved short in the GI lighting. The previous owner kept blowing F3 which takes out the whole game. (No 12v = no 5v to run the MPU) And then to keep the play field lights on they did this. Good luck straightening it all out. Let us know how it goes.

Thats pretty much what happened. 12V was not making it out of J3 (crispy pins). Temporarily soldered to the test point, checked the 5vdc and all was well, and now she boots up. Actually surprised by how well a lot of it is working. Will just have to revisit it and rebuild all the connectors.

#73 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Aha! I'm gonna make another guess that there is an unresolved short in the GI lighting. The previous owner kept blowing F3 which takes out the whole game. (No 12v = no 5v to run the MPU) And then to keep the play field lights on they did this. Good luck straightening it all out. Let us know how it goes.

Been doing some thinking on this...actually more thinking because I foolishly broke a bulb working on a socket with the power on and shorted the playfield lamp, which took out one of those non original fuses. I've been fixing the lamps and installing regular bulbs for now, but I'm debating the old regular incandescent bulbs vs. LEDs. As much as I like LEDs I'm on the fence on this game, that I might want to keep it standard bulbs. I like the look, but I am still not decided yet as LEDs also limit the heat that is so detrimental to backglass and plastics.

Anyways, I know I am going to repin the rectifier even though everything is working well. What I discovered is they actually split the GI into two circuits, pf on one fuse, backbox and cab on the other. Both were at 10A fuses, now that I have blown the one and didn't have a 10A I found 8A to be a comfortable value (5A got warm and glowy). If I keep the game incandescent, I may just leave the modification there and label it.

#74 3 years ago

I also had a question about the brass lamp covers that are on the lane lamps at the top of the playfield. I was only able to find two of them, I assume these are to block light from shining back at the players eyes? For now I put them on the center lanes but I was wondering if originally there were 4 at the top, or some other configuration. Does anyone know if anyone sells this part?


#77 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

8A is still awful high for your GI. Mine are nice and bright running under only a 4A fuse as designed. Something is still going on there.

Uh, I don't think so. Fuse for 7.3 VAC GI is 20A fast blow - F5 on the rectifier board. You have somewhere around 50 GI bulbs at about 250mA each if using standard #44s - that's 12.5 A. Not sure where you are getting "4A fuse as designed", you sure you are not looking at something else?

That would also explain why a 5A glowed a bit on the one branch. If splitting the GI circuit in half there's around *estimated* 5-6 amps in each branch - a 4A fuse isn't enough for half of the GI.

#83 3 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

Whats a nice clean SI worth these days, I have one all led's, nice playfield and perfect BG, thinking of selling

Evaluated the Pinside estimated value and looked at sold listings on Ebay. I'd estimate the value around $1000-$1200.

#85 3 years ago

Spent a few hours unscrambling wiring, repinning and modding the rectifier board , got rid of those fuse mods in the process.

So now that is done, and I played a game or two to test. A couple of gameplay questions:

1) has anyone gotten a ball stuck between the right pop and the side rubber as shown in the pic, constantly bouncing back and forth between the rubbers? I had to really shake it to unstick, and it could have continued for a very long time. Is this something I should be concerned about?

2) I was wondering if it bothers anyone when the ball hits the back of the small flippers at the pivot point when the ball bounces down the flipper return lane to the large flippers. Sometimes it is smooth if the ball runs along the wire, but other times it bounces up and hits the back of the little flipper. It almost seems that there should have been a second wire to prevent this.


#88 3 years ago

Thanks Vid, I'll look into that.

#89 3 years ago

Fixed the last issues, so now everything works. It's actually faster, and more fun, than I first thought it would be.


4 weeks later
#91 2 years ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Clear picture of J3 connector needed. I picked up an SI recently that was preety hacked up and I'm replacing the power supply and I want to make sure I get the wires right for the J3 connector. I also seem to have some wires jumpered in that I'm not sure is normal or not (see photo). Appreciate and help. Thanks

Maybe this will help. Color codes are actually listed on the plug connectors diagram in the manual. You will also want to refer to the online repair docs to add the bulletproofing mods to the rectifier board while you have it out.


1 week later
#97 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

So I know P. Farris did the artwork and J. Patla designed the table. So whointheheck are Clark, Barrett, Hudson and Hieman? Programmers, sound designers, etc??

Could be a reference to Norm Clark, Bally design director. James Barrett, Bally President. Margaret Hudson, production artist. Don't know about Hieman.

3 months later
#112 2 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

My space invaders was working, then stopped working. I had trouble with a transistor on the solenoid board. I also have a rectifier board that had some hacks. when I wiggled some of the wires on the rectifier board the game would come back, then it wouldn't.
I recently redid all of the molex connectors and replaced the rectifier board with a rottendog board. The game turns on, but makes the wrong sounds at start up. It also makes the wrong sounds when a credit is added and the game starts. The LED light on the main board will have 6 solid blinks at start up. The seventh blink is very dim and will stay on.
This seems like a chip issue i had on my firepower, but i'm not sure where to go next. Does anyone have any advice?

Did you replace the MPU->Sound Module cable or repin it? Possible that the sound module might be getting a wrong or missing bit instruction. Carefully check that all the ICs on the sound module are firmly seated, no pins out of socket and such.

2 months later
#150 2 years ago
Quoted from Fourbyracer:

I havent seen one with mylar on it before other than little semi circle pieces that shipped with it if the user wanted to put them in front of the slings. I dont think a custom mylar playfield piece was available for that machine until many years after it was made

I have full sheet mylar on mine. The smooth countours follow around all the components of the game perfectly. The only areas that show the effects of aging are outside the mylar, under the plastics. Definitely looks original.

#155 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

I have considered doing the mylar .... If you care for it, it will last.

Hey, I am about the biggest anti-mylar pinhead around. I've removed Mylar full sheets from every game I have had, except Space Invaders. This games Mylar is still in pretty good shape, and the artwork on this playfield so intricate, so precious, that only in the absolute worst case should I consider removing it. Don't let it bother you if the Mylar is not 100 percent perfect. It feels good to play an unmolested classic once in a while. Though there was a fairly large production of this game, most are either worn to the wood, touched up and cleared, or overlays. Don't overlook the value a collector will place on an original pin. Keep your repros and your auto clear coats, folks. My dollar only goes to original pins

#160 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I guess they got a lot of love and a lot of quarters in their day.

Gave mine some love yesterday and posted my top score. They didn't sell 11,400 units simply because it was pretty.

#162 2 years ago

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2 months later
#170 2 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

- I would like to replace all lamps with LED, what is the process and best parts, and suppliers?

This makes me sad

#172 2 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

wayout440; I'm sorry the idea of replacing all the lamps with LEDs makes you sad. It's something I'm considering because they give off a lot of heat and use a lot of energy. I figure any reduction in power I can manage will only help the machine with a much longer life. I have hundreds of the correct bulbs that came with the machine so it's not like I'm short on them, and I -have- been replacing burnt bulbs. I'm not looking to create a wild color-crazy playfield with them, just wanting to cut down on the power. Even if I choose not to replace them all, I would certainly replace all those under the bumpers, to avoid burning the bumper caps again.
Asa Jay

It's ok. If you are going to stick with whites and not colorize it. I am actually a fan of LEDs, and promote the benefits of them. I have put LEDs in a lot of my games, both my current collection and some that are now gone. Recently I have started to turn a new leaf regarding the look of classic games. In the case of Space Invaders, I have seen a lot of them colorized sooooo poorly. The artwork on this game is outstanding, and IMHO, deserves only LEDs that are as close as possible to the look of incandescent. I was just hackin' on hard feelings.

1 week later
#176 2 years ago
Quoted from VDrums2112:

There are other less expensive ways to stop the flicker but I don't recall them right now. I'd have to research it again.

I used the resistor method on my Bally Strikes and Spares, because I only wanted to LED the star rollovers to brighten them up a bit. Here's the details:

"Once upon a time there was a led that flickered when it was installed in an older Bally or Stern pinball machine. The LEDS flickered on any machine that used a Bally As2518-14, AS2518-23, or Stern LDB-100. These lamp driver modules were used from 1977 thru 1989. These boards use SCRs to switch # 44 Lamps on and off in pinball machines. This has worked well for many years, until someone tried to use a led instead of a #44 lamp. The LED flickered. I discovered that the reason the led flickered was that the LED drew no current below it’s forward bias point that it would not hold an scr latched. If a resistor is added in parallel with the led, it would draw enough current to keep the scr latched and there was no flicker. (Life is Good). Through testing I found that a 470 olhm resistor was more than enough to keep any of the scrs that I tested latched. The 470 olhm resistor can be added in the socket of the led, soldered across the lamp socket, or soldered on the lamp driver module. The electrons don’t know or care where the resistor lives, as long as it will cause a 1ma load to the anode of the scr. All 3 ways have been done and they all work well."

1 week later
#181 2 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

if so, what do you put in?
Thank you for the recommendations ahead of time.

I put a memory capacitor in mine. Never have to worry about it again.

2016-07-31 15.00.59 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#199 2 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

Voltages check out at the transformer, but i'm getting 7.8vdc at test point one (and the corresponding pins) instead of the 5.4vdc i should be getting. Anyone have any tips?

Just to be certain: test point #1 on which board, solenoid driver or rectifier board?

What are you getting at TP5 on the SDB (should be approximately 12VDC)?

What are you getting at TP1 on the SDB (should be approximately 5VDC)?

#201 2 years ago

OK. Think I see where you are at.

Test point #1 on the rectifier board (BPS018) should be 5.4 VDC to supply the switched lamps, this does not go to the solenoid driver board. It goes straight to one side of each switched lamp socket. The other side of each lamp socket is controlled by the lamp driver board to enable a ground to turn on each of the lamps.

Test point #3 on the rectifier board (BPS018) should be 11.9 VDC. This goes to the solenoid driver board, to be converted to 5VDC logic power to run the games CPU.

Are you having a problem with the game running at all? or is it just a switched lamp problem?

1 week later
#204 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

This tp1 voltage on the rectifier board is actually 7.8vdc which is correct for a -49 rectifier board on Space Invaders, Future Spa, and one other Bally according to
Something seems to be going on at the Lamp Driver Board, but i'm not sure what.

He doesn't have a Bally -49, he has a Rottendog BPS018. Slightly different specs for tp1, but still sufficient.

Quoted from canoncitypb:

I just replaced the rectifier/power supply board in my Space invaders with a Rottendog bps018.

#205 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

If I unplug J4 on the LDB I get the correct voltages a the SDB and i get the correct blinks on the LED of the MPU board. The game however still doesn't start. I get a loud sound from the speaker when J4 is plugged in, but no sound when it is not plugged in. There isn't anything visually wrong with the LDB. I'm not sure where to go next.
Any Ideas?

Lamp driver just drives controlled lamps, so I'm thinking you might want to find out why you are not able to start a game. Are you able to add credits to the game? (with the lamp driver board failed, it might be hard to determine if you are even getting into attract mode)

#207 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

from what i understand it is the transformer that sends out different voltages on these few machines, which are then rectified by the board which is why even on the new rottendog board i'm getting the higher 7.8vdc.

Correct. Here's the original bally specs.
TP1 (AS2518-18): 6.4 volts DC.
TP1 (AS2518-49): 8.2 volts DC.

The higher 7.8vdc is fine, the feature lights are getting proper supply voltage and are not that picky. We can safely ignore that now. The feature lamps are not working is because they are not getting switched on by the lamp driver board. Now, is this because the lamp driver board has a problem, or because the MPU (s) not telling the lamp driver to turn them on?

Are the score displays lighting up and blinking?
Are the infinity chase lights running on the perimeter of the backglass?

#210 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

One of the infinity lights is on, but doesn't blink. The displays flash very briefly and then just have that faint orange glow towards the bottom.

Your MPU isn't running. This is what the backbox should look like in attract mode

Double check the test points on the MPU, and write down the exact voltages you are getting

TP1 = +5 vdc (min 4.7 VDC)
TP2 = +11.9 vdc
TP3 = +21.5 vdc (comes from +43 vdc solenoid voltage)
TP4 = Ground
TP5 = +5 vdc (min 4.7 VDC)

#212 1 year ago

First thing to check is the under the playfield fuse might be blown. Next check fuse F4 on the power supply regulator board. Also check it's fuse clip is in good condition with good tension, and is not brown. Now check TP5 (test point 5) on the power supply regulator board. A voltage of about 43 vdc should be seen. If no voltage at TP5, assume the bridge BR3 on this board is bad and replace it.

After getting +43 vdc at TP5, then check connector J1, pin 6 on the power supply regulator board. This brown wire goes directly to the playfield flipper coils. If there is +43 volts at the connector, but not at the brown wire on the flipper coils, there is a problem in the wiring.

If the game is not getting the 7th MPU LED flash, that means +43 volts is missing. After checking all the above, verify there is +43 vdc on the MPU board on the left (connector) side of R113. Now check the right side of R113. If no voltage there, then replace R113 (2k, 1/4 watt) and retest. If still no voltage, there may be battery corrosion damage in this area of the MPU board.

#215 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

okay, F4 was blown. When i replaced it the game came up. The displays worked, credits were added, game started, began to play, right flippers stopped working, fuse blew again and game stopped. I thought perhaps there was something wrong with the right flippers. I checked and the retaining clip on the plunger and link came off and the small flipper would not slide easily into the coil. I took it apart, cleaned it and put it back together with a new retaining clip. Replaced the fuse, turned the game back on and the fuse blew again immediately. Not sure what would make this fuse blow at start up. Any ideas?

Seems likely that since the problem occurred during right flipper actuation, that the problem is probably on the right side flipper circuit. Likely one of the diodes on one of the coils could have failed, allowing reverse current to damage the solenoid supply circuit. Disconnect the right flipper solenoids for now. You can connect them up one at a time later, but check the coils and diodes first before you do.

Also try removing connectors J1 and J3 from the rectifier board (this moves the solenoid power back a step further, not allowing it to get any further than the rectifier board). Replace fuse F4 on the solenoid driver board, and turn the game on. If the fuse still blows, the solenoid bridge rectifier (on the rectifier board) or the rectifier board's varister is probably at fault.

#217 1 year ago

Check the 600 ohm resistor across the bridge (lift one leg to measure)
Check for board shorts, anywhere after fuse and after bridge, check J2 header
Bridge is actually faulty, but your just not seeing it with your DMM measurements

....That's really all I can think of.

1 month later
#223 1 year ago

Lol.... Thinking of funny places to put that topper besides the game.

Also going to see Alien Covenant this afternoon.

#225 1 year ago
Quoted from jdrenner32:

Hi, new to this thread. Just bought me a Space Invaders machine. I noticed in one thread (it might have been this one) that the gray base coat has a spackling of silver on it before the red and black are painted. What other weird quirks do I need to be aware of when working on this guy? I am relatively new to fixing pinball machines as well, so even the most 'everybody knows' items are relevant to my question. I'm sure I'll be coming back with more narrowed down questions as the process continues. But just an 'FYI as you are working, watch for this' kinda stuff. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the thread and SI ownership. To be honest, there's no need for being concerned about the silver paint spackling for general "working on this guy". Its a basic early solid state Bally with very common electrical and mechanical systems. Now if you are talking about repainting the cab, that's a whole specialized field of pinball. Most pin collectors simply do not repaint cabs. Your question might be better addressed by postng it on its own thread.

#227 1 year ago
Quoted from jdrenner32:

Hmm. Thanks for the info. Is that just because its too expensive and time consuming to repaint?

IMHO, I think it is only worthwhile if you plan on keeping it for an extended time, and you are going to go all in with cosmetics on everything else in the game. When you make something extra nice like a playfield or cab, anything sub-par tends to stand out more. Sometimes existing parts might actually look a bit worse than before...just because of the "contrast" against the nicely redone parts. Just think what a car looks like if you paint the body and stick rusty chrome on it. Tends to look worse than it did against the aged paint.

Paint itself isn't that expensive, but the stencils can be a bit pricey. If the stencils are not available, you'll have to make your own. I think they are available for SI. To do it right, you have to strip everything out and have the space to do it. That can be a real pain if you have to do it all outside like I did. A painting tent would have been helpful. There were a lot of days where the weather didn't cooperate, making the whole project take longer.

I don't mean to dissuade you, just trying to give info. If you have the space, the means, and your heart is in it - by all means make it pretty if you want.

1 month later
#234 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

I was changing some settings on my machine today. The dum dum dum dum sound that runs in the background always turns off when another sound is playing. On the sound options, it says the background can play with the switch noises if both 29 and 30 are in the on position. I would prefer if the background sound was not interrupted each time the other sounds come on, but it seems like maybe this isn't an option. I've tried to watch some other videos and it seems the same on those machines.
Just wanted to check here to see if there is a way for the background to not be interrupted by the switch noises. I would prefer them to play simultaneously.

Sorry but that was the way it was for the technology of the time. You'll find this on all the machines of this series, watch a video of Silverball Mania, for example.

#236 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

does anyone actually shoot for the drop targets on the left or the messenger ball as part of their strategy?.

If I remember correctly, awards for these features carry over from ball to ball, so definitely worth shooting at.

1 year later
#254 4 months ago
Quoted from Captain-Flint:

Also a new owner, and I was wondering what guys have done to the bulb sockets on the "50" caps to keep them from flickering? I one that no matter what I do to try and secure the bulb, the damn thing just sits too loose, so when the pump bumper near it fires, that bulb gets loose and dark.

Sometimes a light squeeze with a pair of pliers (with the power off and the bulb removed!) anything more than that, and you are wasting your time. Replace the sockets at that point.

1 week later
#257 4 months ago
Quoted from Breger1:

I have a SI I've had for about a year. I've never had any issues until recently the horseshoe stopped scoring, it will intermittently pick up the ball rolling across. But if it is going it too fast the switch doesn't register or score. Therefore, I replaced the leaf switches, but it continues to do it, any thoughts? I made sure the switch gap was barely open to make sure the rollover button would register.

The switches should have .047uF capacitors across them. Sometimes they are clipped off because if they became shorted they would stop the switch from working correctly. I noticed this problem on the horseshoe of my SI, but the targets as well. I added the caps to all the target switches as well as the horseshoe switches on SI for the same problem. The .047uF cap should be soldered across the switch. This allows the cap to "stretch" the pulse of a quick switch so the MPU has a better chance of reading the switch closure.

#259 4 months ago
Quoted from Breger1:

thanks for the advice, I have read to cut the capacitors, but this makes sense. Which leads are the soldered to?

One side to the cathode side of the diode, and the other side to the switch contact that is not connected to the diode at all.

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2 months later
#264 51 days ago
Quoted from Smart_Bomb:

Let me ask this now: Would it be wise to remove the protector from the playfield and clear coat the playfield? The playfield is not perfect but it looks good. Wouldn't multiple layers of clear coat make the playfield more vibrant and also protect the playfield more and enhance the game play?

Personally, if it is in good shape I would leave it be, wax it and play it. At minimum, if you want to clear it you should plan on high quality touch up and a lot of prep work. As far as game play goes, to me there is something unnatural about the feeling when they are super gloss cleared. But that's just me.

#266 51 days ago
Quoted from Smart_Bomb:

if I remove the mylar, would it pull up the playfield art work in some areas? Isn't the way to do it is turn a can of canned air upside down and spray it on it or something like that? I need to look up the youtube vids on the process.

Ah. I thought you had one of those floating playfield protectors when you referred to it as a "protector". Removing mylar is tricky business. I've done it a number of times. I lost considerable art on Bally Mata Hari (my first game) and some on Williams High Speed. It's a process that requires patience and practice and nobody can guarantee that you won't lose any art. I also had better success on many games using a heat gun to soften the glue, rather than canned air or freeze spray. I chose to leave mylar on my Space Invaders, since the art and mylar were in great condition

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