Here's a look for you. The larger smoky glass slides into the front like every back glass did back then where the top slides up and in while the bottom drops into a slot.
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The smaller inner glass is framed behind the front glass and infinity lights and held in place with plastic tabs. Note there are also lights back lighting the inner glass. You'll need something there or it will not show very well.
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These are NOT original equipment. My guess would be that the card where they normally sit is so zapped they moved them? A picture of that would be helpful. The card that is wired to the transformer, that is.

Aha! I'm gonna make another guess that there is an unresolved short in the GI lighting. The previous owner kept blowing F3 which takes out the whole game. (No 12v = no 5v to run the MPU) And then to keep the play field lights on they did this. Good luck straightening it all out. Let us know how it goes.

Hard to find item. Lots of folks go to the colored plastic tubes found on some of these games. I get mine at PBR. Red across the top and green down the sides. I will usually put soft white LEDs behind the back glass and color matched LEDs under the inserts. The play field GI I like to leave incandescent.

8A is still awful high for your GI. Mine are nice and bright running under only a 4A fuse as designed. Something is still going on there.

You are completely right. I was completely wrong. Don't know how I confused myself.

Yep. You betcha! This one is a keeper for me. Already rebuilt the water ruined cab, got a decent back glass and have installed LED score displays. I'm in the process of replacing most of the light sockets.

I printed mine off of that site because the ones that came with it were trash. I'll see what I have. It came with a partial goody bag.

Now I remember!! The mice had gone at it pretty good. Here's what I got. If you want it, I'll be happy to scan it for ya.
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Anyone have or know of a good back glass scan?

Print this.
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So I know P. Farris did the artwork and J. Patla designed the table. So whointheheck are Clark, Barrett, Hudson and Hieman? Programmers, sound designers, etc??
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Beautiful! Nice pick-up.

The lugs are numbered 1-16. Shouldn't be anything on #12.

I see what you're saying about the manual. I have never noticed that before. Meanwhile, I have run my SI through several hundred games at TPF and the HAAG show without a single glitch on a 3ASB.

Yikes!! OK, You need to check and double check your connections from the transformer to the board and your plug wires.

18-49 WIRING TABLE.pdf

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If it was on long enough for you to take measurements and nothing went "poof" you are probably good.

On which board? The only AC in the machine is for the GI lights which come off the rectifier at TP 4 or 5.

If you have the manual with schematics it is all laid out on the "Power Transformer Module" schematic. And pictures are worth a thousand words...

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http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:As-2518-18-wiring.jpg

That's pretty awesome! We do the same thing here in South Texas only we use the sun for a heat source.

Shawn
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The overlay is on and DAMN it looks good! The experience was pretty easy, but I suppose preparation helps. I sprayed more water than I expected to but it probably still wasn't enough. I lined it up before we peeled it and I made line-up marks where the rails will go. That way I didn't have to try and do it wet. Biggest lesson learned was to do the cut outs myself. The printer offered to and I let them thinking that they would have the computer do it. Next time I will do it myself. A few days to let the adhesive set and I will throw on some waxing and buffing. After that its rebuild city!

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I have considered doing the mylar but I think I will do without. Mine was printed and then a clear layer put over it so the ball will never touch the ink. As long as I keep it clean and waxed it should last a good long time. There are many opinions as to what should be done and this is what I am doing.

All options have good and bad properties. A good 2-part autoclear would be best, if you have the capability or someone you know and trust does. We all know mylar will eventually bubble and scratch. After taking mine to three shows and throwing on a few thousand games and seeing how well my cheap decal held up I think this level will do me fine. If you care for it, it will last.

My overlay is a copy of one I purchased years ago from an individual at a show. I had it scanned and then had my local Fast Signs store print it out for me. I have no idea how the Classic Arcades ones were done. Sorry.

I bought two together and both were worn to the wood with mylar half circles at the slings and rings around the active pops.

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Absolutely. The layout works, the play is fast and the theme was right on the money. Sometimes simpler is better. But there is plenty to shoot for and a high risk/reward on the center horse shoe. This is permanent collection material alongside my EBD. (My brother got the other SI.)

Great looking machine! Here's a few resources for ya.

PBR aka Steve Young's Pinball Resource has these and most of the other stuff you will need.

Probably just needs adjusting and proper gapping on the EOS (end of stroke) switch.

PBR

The tubes are faded, they were originally red to give off a lighting effect. PBR had these as well as green ones some people put over the GI lights in the clone chamber area.

Fresh rubber will go a long ways towards making it play better. It is one of my all time favs and will never leave my collection. Enjoy!

Shawn

Nope. Not supposed to flicker. Probably cracked solder joints. Pinwiki has an entire chapter of beefing up score displays. Check it out.

The only fuse under the play field on SI is this one, between the lower flippers. Yours appears to be a hack on the GI.
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Here's a shot for comparison. Might not be the best since I have replaced the braid with conductive foil, but I can get more specific shots if you need them. My P/F is currently outside of the machine and easily photographed.
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Here's some pics I took of the GI circuits before putting down the foil. Hope these help. You can see the orange and red feed one side of the GI circuit and the green and white wires feed the other. Crossing them will blow fuses for sure.

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CPR has one in the works but there are delays. I went ahead and did my own overlay. Worked out great!

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Nice one! They are getting hard to find. Just a SWAG, but I believe the piece that supports the neck at the back of the cab is not original and I would check that it is solid before mounting the head and opening it up with back glasses installed. This part often goes bad from the weight of the glasses when the door is wide open.

Shawn

Like this?
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Got this years ago off E-bay for cheap. Best way I know to get decent bends.
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Yikes! Whatever is going on inside that lower cab is truly frightening. Who does that?!?!?!?!?!?!

A reimport? Wow. Check everything. And then check it again.

Shawn

The chaser light are run by an aux lamp board. You need one power wire that runs daisy chain style to each lamp and then individual wires that run to each lamp.

That's right, my mistake. What he said. (I was too lazy to look at the schematics and running off of memory.)

Not present. False flag.

.062 on the left, .084 on the right.

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You want some pictures to make sure you got it right? never seen that...

One never knows.

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Take the cards out and look and see if you can tell where it is hitting.

I did an overlay on mine years ago and put the playfield protector over that. Plays plenty fast enough. Enjoy!

I did eventually do a little trimming and leveling in the horseshoe to prevent hangups when slow-rolling through. I still occasionally get the ball stuck by the upper end of the drop targets. Gotta work on that.

The last two playfields I got from CPR were both direct prints and both were very nice. The only issue I had was they didnt cover the rollovers during the clear coating. Not so bad when there are two under a plastic like here. One of them was a BOPP which has ten rollovers. It sucked.

Shawn

Lots of time with a sharp xacto for me. Even well done the rollover would not set flush. Makes for a lot of concerning air balls.

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Mine has wire nuts by the rectifier board. S/N unk.

Both of mine had serial numbers.

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And who-in-the-hecks brilliant thought was to put the "Patents Pending" sticker there? Was there not enough room on the inside? Bottom? Anywhere but there????

The 18AWG blue powers the CI or controlled illumination lamps. Doubled is just where it is daisy chained to the next location it is needed. The single blue 18AWG is where it terminates.

The red, white, green and orange power the GI or general illumination lamps. As above, doubled where it daisy chains down to the next and single where it terminates. Bally often would double the output on strands of GI incase one went out the other would keep the lights on. Blue is on its' own. The red can be with the orange and the green can be with the white. Any other combo will blow fuses really fast.

white/blue = ball in play.
gray/orange - high score to date
green/orange = same player shoot again.
gray/white = game over
gray/black = tilt
gray/yellow - match.

The yellow wires are for features of the Mystic back box that are not on Space Invaders. You can either tape them or wire nut them or otherwise terminate them where they wont short to each other or any other wires.

No. Don't solder them to anything. Just terminate them where they are.

Red and white on the alien's eyes is fine. All the bulbs surrounding need to be powered by the blue. (IE blue to the outer wire that goes to all of the bulbs. The remaining GI lights across the top can be powered with red and white or orange and green. Whichever is most convenient. Mystic had a heckuva lot more GI than SI does. The few bulbs at the bottom can be either pair. You will likely have some that are unneeded and should be taped up for safety sake.

Now the important question... Do you have the plugs off of the aux light board? (A9J2 and A9J3) That is what controls the alien lights and the infinity lights.

The schematic page for the aux light board has all the info you need on it. There are two plugs coming from the board and all the wires will come together and then separate at the light board. Most will go to a 6X4 .062 plug to power the infinity lights and 7 will branch off to the lights for the alien. My machine is currently in a bad spot to get pictures but I can help interpret the schematics if you need. If Trainmonger can get pics that would be helpful.

I think you got the basic idea. Not sure what green and white wires you are referring to?

All of the wires from that plug go to the backbox to power all the boards and some go on to power the lights in the insert. (green, white, red, orange and blue as discussed above.)