Hi Guys, i've been asked by the son of a family friend to get his Spacey machine up and going again (was his dads and was in a games room in their holiday flats) Unfortunately this poor gal has been non working for at least 22 years that they can recall so it's in dire need of some love. The guy just wants to get this running, he's not interested in any of the aesthetics and also wants to do it as cheap as possible so a full restore is not the option (including no new plastics etc) The boards will all have to be sent away for repairs but in the meantime i was going through the basics of what i needed under the playfield. The most obvious was the flipper switches, as you can see by the pics they are totally stuffed/missing bits. I bought some ones from Marco's (from the specific Space Invaders section) but after looking through this thread i'm not sure they will be what i need for the job. Also wondering about the cab flipper switches too as the one's on this machine are busted.
There will be a few unknowns i'm sure with this so until i have the boards up and running i'm just dealing with the obvious stuff first.
Any help with the switch part identification and/or the right part numbers will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!!

DSC05605 (resized).JPG

DSC05606 (resized).JPG

DSC05607 (resized).JPG

DSC05643 (resized).JPG

DSC05644 (resized).JPG

DSC05645 (resized).JPG

DSC05646 (resized).JPG

DSC05647 (resized).JPG

DSC05648 (resized).JPG

DSC05649 (resized).JPG

Thanks for the link Vid but that doesn't incorporate the secondary EOS switch for the upper flippers?? I wanted to rebuild the full flipper mechs on this machine but he really doesn't want to spend the money on it to go that far, despite me telling him the flippers could be potentially weak and or crappy. There's a LOT of things i would like to do to this machine to give it the proper attention it deserves but for now he's only setting aside a budget for bare bones work and a lot of that budget will most likely be tied up in the circuit board repair. I identified the obvious stuff just looking at the underneath and top of the PF so at this stage it's only EOS switches for the flipper mech, Cab flipper switches, full rubber kit, 1 target from the left bank (busted off underneath) and both upper flipper bats are cracked (virtually falling apart) As mentioned before there's probably going to be heaps of things that will need adjustment or repair and wont become apparent until i get the boards up and running but for now the parts mentioned are the obvious stuff needing replacement.

Well now i am confused
Which mechanical parts are you referring too??
I'm aware the mechs should be rebuilt but as mentioned the guy wants to be tight so until the time comes i can show how weak the flippers will most likely be then i won't be rebuilding them.
I understand that the inner switch is normally closed and the outer is normally open but the link you provided to the rebuilt mech doesn't have a secondary switch on it, only the inner?? unless i'm totally missing something (apologies if that's the case) My question was if the 2 EOS switches i bought are usable as the one's i've seen in this thread look different (mainly the normally closed one)
Not sure what you mean about the small flippers?? On this machine i have, the left upper has the blades busted completely off the secondary switch but the stack is there and the right is damaged but is on the mech.
Do you mean that this machine doesn't normally have the secondary normally open EOS switch on the upper flipper mechs?

Ok cool so those 2 together will be fine for the lower mechs, that's how i was thinking they would go together. Gotcha with the uppers, i had read up about that but can these same 2 EOS switches still be used or will i need a different secondary normally open?

Thanks!! Do you have a part number for those ones? A pic of one on a machine would be extra helpful too if that's possible.

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I went looking for those switches but seems no one has them anymore
The only one i could find that was similar was this one >>
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASE-2911-17
Not sure if they would work but as you mentioned it's not entirely necessary for the game anyway so perhaps for now i'll just leave that.

Yeah i can get that particular switch locally (SW-1A-130) and i think that one will work. The side wire attachment is separate from the other blades so that is pretty much identical to the originals and i do have spare diodes. Some of the parts i've had to source from Marcos and a few locally but so far hasn't been too bad luckily. Cheers and thanks again for the help, much appreciated!!. I'll probably run into a few issues once the boards are all repaired so don't be surprised if i ask some more questions

I'm closer to getting this old machine up and running again, although still waiting for all the boards to come back. I've re-pinned all the board connectors and then realised i might as well re-pin all the molex block connectors on the wiring looms also. Considering the machine has been non working for over 20 years seems silly to do the board connectors and not the others. Before i order the pins for these does anyone know if they are the .062 size?? I know they are smaller than the .093 standard size but i think there's a mid size too (.084)?? I just want to be sure before i order some pins.

Cheers, yeah i ended up finding some .062 pins in my stash which i didn't even know i had and the connectors are definitely that size. Thanks!!

Hi Guys, i should have the repaired boards back for this machine next week so was just looking at what else i needed to do. I've re-pinned all the board connectors and the block style molex connectors also but had left the 3 rectifier board connectors. J2 and J3 are no worries as all the wires were still intact in the connectors but J1 had a couple of wires removed that had been dodgy soldered to the fuse clip holders.
Could someone please have a look at the J1 connector on their rectifier board and confirm these wire colours in their right pin places. Pin numbers are as marked on the board but should be Pin 1 > 9 from the left to the right of the cab.
Pin 1 = White
Pin 2 = Green
Pins 3/4 = Blank
Pin 5 = Light Brown (could be viewed as Orange also)
Pin 6 = Dark Brown
Pin 7 = Blue
Pin 8 = Red
Pin 9 = Blue
On the machine the Red and Light Brown (Orange) wires were the one's removed from the connector and soldered to the fuse clips.
I just want to be sure i have it right, don't wanna fry up the nicely repaired boards
Thanks in advance!!

AWESOME, TY!!! that confirms what i thought it was yep, i just didn't want to take any chances with it MUCH appreciated!!

Need a little help here again Attached the newly repaired boards into the machine today and the machines not booting. Doesn't appear to be getting any power to the MPU so checked the test points on the solenoid driver board and it's not getting any 12V or 5V readings (the 190V and 43V tests ok though)
The rectifier test points are ok across the board so i know it's somewhere in the wiring or connectors, either wire breakage or connector pin issues (perhaps stuffed up a couple of crimps)
Does anyone know which connector/s brings in 12V and 5V from the rectifier board to the solenoid board and which pin/wire colour?
Assume it's one of the .156 connectors J1, J2 or J5 just having trouble deciphering the schematic

Cheers!! It's getting very early in the morning here so i will check continuity on those pins later today.
Much appreciated!!

Bit of an update on the wiring. Checked the J3 connector and low and behold there's no wire at pin 8, that will bloody do it
After checking out the J3 pin on the driver board and seeing it's an orange wire i inspected the bundle of orange wires capped off on the loom near the rectifier board and i'm thinking to myself...Yeah it will be one of you for sure!!
Here's the handy part - started trying to get that plastic cap off the bundle and 1 orange wire pops out so i thought, wouldn't it be lucky AF if that's the one needed? Check continuity back to J3 on the driver board and BINGO!!!
Machine is pretty much all working except 1 pop bumper (has a blown cap on the switch) and 1 roll over switch (suspect also a blown cap) and about 10 globe sockets will need replacing as they are totally loose and knackered. Got a set of LED displays coming also as it works out cheaper than replacing with 2nd hand original style displays (3 of the 5 were cactus apparently, not just the boards needing repair)
I will chuck up some pics when i get it all sorted but visually it's nothing special as the guy i'm doing this for just doesn't want to spend bugger all money on it. I was happy to discover that for all those connectors i refreshed it appears i didn't stuff any up, so that was a bonus considering i'd never done a full machines worth like that before
Thanks for all the help so far guys, very much appreciated!!

DSC05894 (resized).JPG

DSC05895 (resized).JPG

Maybe a shorted globe socket??

Is there a diode on those coils? I can't recall because it's been quite some months since i worked on a family friends machine.

That was why i was asking about the diode on the coil. I had a Spy Hunter project at one stage that had a shot gunning flipper coil and it ended up being a diode. Replaced with a new coil and it was fine after that.