I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a SI pin, but need to know what the dimensions are, especially the width. Anyone have a tape measure handy and 5 minutes to spare?

Great! Thanks for the info. I'm planning on picking it up tomorrow. It's a project game that I'll need to replace the worn playfield, but luckily it comes with a new overlay.

I picked up the SI in Lexington, SC this morning. Needs a good bit of cleaning, new set of rubbers, some de-rusting and the high voltage board needs to be recapped. It came with a replacement overlay, but I'm thinking I can hold out for one of the CPF playfields, since I've read some horror stories and I'm still a rookie. Appreciate any tips ya'll can pass my way. Can't wait to get this back to Louisiana and get to work on it...

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The restoration of my SI is in full swing, however I have a problem that is baffling me. The game has all original boards with the exception of an Alltek Ultimate MPU board. The flippers and the solenoids are not working and I only get 6 flashes on the MPU board's LED. I've verified on the rectifier board's TP5 that the game is putting out +43 volts (actually around +45 volts). TP1 through 3 show acceptable levels of voltage. I've checked all the fuses to include the one in-between the flippers. Nothing else looks wrong. I will say that I found a ceramic capacitor that may have been clipped on one of the leads for the clone chamber target. I've soldered that back as the capacitor didn't look damaged. I have changed out capacitor C23 on the solenoid/voltage regulator board since the previous owner said the high voltage was out and had received the game with that extra capacitor that I used. Other than that, everything to include the displays, start button, sound and most of the lane switches work. Oh, one last thing is that I can't get the game to go into free play even after changing the first dip switch on the Alltek MPU board to the "1". Putting a coin in the coin slot does cause a credit to register and I can start a game. Appreciate any thoughts on what could be causing this.

I checked TP3 on the SDB and it seems like the voltages jumped all over the place. Eventually it settled around +108 volts.

I'm still trying to figure out why my solenoids and flippers don't work. Today I took several readings from the different TPs on the high voltage/solenoid board and TP3 is way out of spec.
TP1 +5V
TP2 +175V
TP3 +97V
TP4 +240V
TP5 +15V
TP6 +97V
TP7 +97V

From what I've read online, TP3 should be +5V.

Any suggestions on what I should check?

The wire looks fine, however I’m thinking I need to reflow solder to everything pin 13, 25, TP1 and TP3 touches will fix the problem...

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They looked good and snug. Something else I noticed was that the transistor at Q19 was clipped off, but the ends were still soldered to the board. Not sure if that would affect things. I wonder why someone would remove a transistor and not replace it...

Should I remove all the solder on J3 and re-solder it? Also the solder for Q20 looks kinda ugly. Should I reflow it?

Quench, I have a Klein Tools MM400 multimeter.

I finally received a new capacitor in the mail for C26 on the solenoid board and changed it out. Also I added some solder to Q20. I checked all the transistors at the bottom of the board (Q1-Q18) in diode mode on my multimeter and they all checked good. I found a couple of capacitors and diodes under the playfield that had one of the leads unattached, so I resoldered them as well. One was for one of the rear red targets next to the bumper cap. The solenoid on one of the small flippers had a wire that soldered it, so I took care of that as well. After all of this, no change to getting power to the flippers or the rest of the solendoids. I did notice that if I manually moved the small white flippers, it made a sound. The main red flippers did not make any sounds when I moved them. I took some power readings on the rectifier board and the following was what I found:
TP1 +7.4V
TP2 +243V
TP3 +14.9V
TP4 +.1V
TP5 +44.9V

I really appreciate everyone's help so far.

Quench, I made some great progress tonight based on your suggestion. I attached a jumper wire via alligator teeth to TP1 and TP3 and that got most of the solenoids working. When I start a game, it will kick out the ball and all the flippers work. It doesn't recognize that I drain a ball though. When I ran the self test, all of the solenoids move except 10 and 11. It also looks like at least switches 5, 17-21, 26 and 32 aren't working either.

I'll have to track down another multimeter to check TP3, so it will be a couple of days until I can run that problem down.

Thanks again Quench. I'll open up the new thread and looking forward to getting this game back in tip-top shape. This is fun and frustrating at the same time!

Has anyone run across a schematic of the playfield that shows all the part numbers associated with the various parts? I’m a bit spoiled with my Avengers and my previously owned Starship Troopers games.

Thanks for the reference. Are there other guides that break down playfield parts more i.e. thunder bumpers and the regular bumpers?

Quench, that's exactly what I needed. Great schematics that will help me disassembly and de-corrode all those little metal parts in my game!

A quick update on my restoration. I permanently fixed the solenoid/flipper problem with a little bit of work on my high voltage/solenoid driver board. It was one of two things: Cleaning the pins on J3 with a fiberglass eraser or removing the old solder and resoldering pins 13-25 on J3. Now on to fixing most of my switches...

Anyone ever had their game lock up, emit a long tone and then reset randomly? My game has been doing this as of late. When the tone is being played, only the GI lights and all the lights in the backbox with exception of the strobing lights are on. It has an Altek MPU board that came with the game when I got it last year.

Quench, it is a single tone.

Sorry for taking so long to reply to this thread with an update. I checked the wires and all seemed good on the transformer and I had previously repined the connectors on J3 on the solenoid/high voltage board and J2 that plugs into the Altek MPU board. What seemed to work was vacuuming out dust/debris on the transformer board and reseating J3. I keep the game on for about 30 minutes and played it a few times without any problems. Now to tackle my last problem of the right extra ball lane rollover to working. At least I know from the switch matrix that A4J2 -9 and A4J2-4 have been repined, so it's not that. Must be the actual switch or something in the wiring...

My game is missing what I think is a red 1 1/8 inch post to the left of the 3-bank drop targets. While I’ve got a replacement post, I would like to know what kind of screw attaches it to the play field.

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Hit a snag with my Space Invaders restore with a new problems that cropped up last weekend with my lights. The first is when I turned on my game and sections of of the chasing lights in the back box are out. If you start in a corner and divide the lights in groups of four, every other group of lights are out. Also, the right side of the creature lights are out as well. The light on the left side are on with a bit of flicker. I’ve put new solder on J1, J2 and J3 on the aux lamp board thinking that might fix it, but no luck there. The wired things is that these problems this the first time in the year I’ve had this game that this happened.

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Found the problem and fixed it. The high voltage/solenoid board had corrosion/lite surface rust on the bottom side of where the corner grounding screws go. Cleaned up both spots and the game works like a champ. It ever brought the sound board back to life!