Quoted from vulcan903:Jobs to do!
Yikes! Whatever is going on inside that lower cab is truly frightening. Who does that?!?!?!?!?!?!
A reimport? Wow. Check everything. And then check it again.
Shawn
Question, I bought a Space Invaders backbox a few years ago. Had it light up in the back but never had the chaser lights to work. Looking into that but the previous owners had decided to remove the wiroing, so I only have 2 wires. I need to test if all lights then burn. What if I would like to restore the wires.
How many wires are coming from that box? And are these going to the Auxilary lamp Driver? If I would buy a Aux lamp driver board, power that up and restore wiring would then the chaser light work. Or just go an arduino way of solution?
The chaser light are run by an aux lamp board. You need one power wire that runs daisy chain style to each lamp and then individual wires that run to each lamp.
Ok great, each light has it's own wire? That means 32 cables plus 1 power wire is going to that frame? Or is it divided by 4 sides so 1 wire adresses 4 lights Like the first, the second, third.....untill the eight of each row (with 4 rows). That would mean 8 cables plus 1 black one.
Quoted from PeterG:Ok great, each light has it's own wire?
It's 2 lots of 8 cables (16 individual lamp wires - 2 lamps share a wire). Refer to the Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board schematic. Note the blue wire in the door frame marked as ground should really be feature lamp 6.5VDC supply that's daisy chained to all lamps.
That's right, my mistake. What he said. (I was too lazy to look at the schematics and running off of memory.)
Anyone ever had their game lock up, emit a long tone and then reset randomly? My game has been doing this as of late. When the tone is being played, only the GI lights and all the lights in the backbox with exception of the strobing lights are on. It has an Altek MPU board that came with the game when I got it last year.
Quoted from ElCid95:Anyone ever had their game lock up, emit a long tone and then reset randomly? My game has been doing this as of late. When the tone is being played, only the GI lights and all the lights in the backbox with exception of the strobing lights are on. It has an Altek MPU board that came with the game when I got it last year.
I would make sure the +5 regulator circuitry is stable.
From the transformer through the voltage reg. solenoid
driver board down to the input to the cpu.
Quoted from ElCid95:Anyone ever had their game lock up, emit a long tone and then reset randomly?
When you say "emit a long tone", is it two alternating tones like an alarm? If yes, what you're describing is a slam tilt condition which causes the game to reset.
Quoted from ElCid95:Quench, it is a single tone.
Then it could be a power/connector issue as vec-tor was getting at.
Sorry for taking so long to reply to this thread with an update. I checked the wires and all seemed good on the transformer and I had previously repined the connectors on J3 on the solenoid/high voltage board and J2 that plugs into the Altek MPU board. What seemed to work was vacuuming out dust/debris on the transformer board and reseating J3. I keep the game on for about 30 minutes and played it a few times without any problems. Now to tackle my last problem of the right extra ball lane rollover to working. At least I know from the switch matrix that A4J2 -9 and A4J2-4 have been repined, so it's not that. Must be the actual switch or something in the wiring...
Greetings!! Need help from any of you.
Could someone please send me closeup pictures of connectors on the lamp board, aux lamp board and sound board?
Manual its not accurate and it's missing the sound wiring diagram.
Need to determine if I have the correct color cables in order on those connectors from those boards, thank you in advance!!
Quoted from arqpuebla:Greetings!! Need help from any of you.
Could someone please send me closeup pictures of connectors on the lamp board, aux lamp board and sound board?
Manual its not accurate and it's missing the sound wiring diagram.
Need to determine if I have the correct color cables in order on those connectors from those boards, thank you in advance!!
Hope this helps
First 2 pics are of the auxiliary light board
The next 3 are light board
Last one is sound board
The connectors I had to remove to photograph are in the proper orientation top to bottom or side to side with the pins in the background.
Good luck!
Quoted from PinZig:Hope this helps
First 2 pics are of the auxiliary light board
The next 3 are light board
Last one is sound board
The connectors I had to remove to photograph are in the proper orientation top to bottom or side to side with the pins in the background.
Good luck!
OMG.!!!! thank you is not enough!!! I'm finishing my restoration and rebuild all connectors, but I suspect on those!! thank you thank you thank you. For taking the time.
best regards
Greetings folks. I’m having an issue and it has me baffled. I just rebuilt all the flippers on my Space Invaders. When I fired it up it worked for a minute then died. Found that I blew a fuse. Replaced it and found the switch that wasn’t adjusted properly that caused the fuse to go. Fixed and adjusted. Now neither of the upper flippers will hold. They flip once then return to resting position. I’ve checked all the switches and fuses and still nothing. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
For having made 11,000 games I don’t see these for sale much ? Is $900 a fair price for a non working game but mint Backglasses
My game is missing what I think is a red 1 1/8 inch post to the left of the 3-bank drop targets. While I’ve got a replacement post, I would like to know what kind of screw attaches it to the play field.
B1B23DB3-A843-450D-A36F-5EA8CD1DC3EA (resized).jpegF5F9A007-8FCA-46DD-BDC2-1849FE323398 (resized).jpegI don't have that post on mine, but to answer your question - look under the playfield - if the hole does not go through, its a regular wood screw about 1.5 ". A machine screw will have a nut on the underside. I think they are number 6 screws.
Well, I have been out of the loop for a few months...MOVING through this whole COVID thing. I am settled in to my new home and waiting for the game room/shop to be built so I can resume my SI rebuild. So, a few more months before I can work on anything again. My mind is going crazy so I actually started an electronics class to keep busy and hopefully increase by skills. The good news is that my 4 other pins have been cleaned and shipped and cliffy’s installed. So hopefully I can hit the ground running in a few months!
Quoted from Damagio:Well, I have been out of the loop for a few months...MOVING through this whole COVID thing. I am settled in to my new home and waiting for the game room/shop to be built so I can resume my SI rebuild. So, a few more months before I can work on anything again. My mind is going crazy so I actually started an electronics class to keep busy and hopefully increase by skills. The good news is that my 4 other pins have been cleaned and shipped and cliffy’s installed. So hopefully I can hit the ground running in a few months!
Keep me in mind if you want to move it on after you finish and start another project, been looking for a real nice one for a while now and LA is where i can get one on a boat to me.
I recently purchased my first pinball machine and it was one of my favorites as a teenager, Space Invaders. I noticed that some of the fuses were the wrong amps so I ordered a fuse kit to replace all the fuses. The kit came with 10 fuses, but I can only find a place for 8 of them. The 2 that I have left over are a 5A slow blow and 10A. Does anyone know where the go or if they are even used in this machine?
Only noticed 8 fuses when I took a quick look in the manual (section XI. Parts List). 1A slo Playfield. 3/16A Sol. Driver/Voltage Reg., Rectifier 3/4A slo & 4A & 5A & 20A & 3A slo. And I only have seven fuses that I can find in my cabinet, which has the Stern SDU-100 solenoid driver board (no fuse!).
You have good taste. SI was my first solid state pinball.
Sorry, but if you are going to use led on this machine use only warm white. Just my opinion. The colors are to much.
First take, wow, also thinking too much color for my tastes. But I like the alien on the backglass, the way it really pops out. Imagine if the arcade had it looking like that back in the day.
Quoted from PeterG:Sorry, but if you are going to use led on this machine use only warm white. Just my opinion. The colors are to much.
FYI, it appears that CPR has Space Invaders playfields back in stock
CPR_SI_FB (resized).png
The first game I bought! The last I would ever sell. From my cold dead hands.
Love seeing all your pictures. Such a rad game and back box.
Message from the Freek Kingdom.
Do any of you have ideas on this plug? I have replaced almost everything. Lamp board, aux lamp board, rectifier board, solenoid board. Resoldered all pins new crimped ends and plugs. But still cannot get all of the infinity lamps to light and some play field lights to light. All bulbs checked good bulbs to ground all light. My last resort is a new MPU board. I have resoldered all of those pins And reseated all chips. However the plug in the picture only has a blue wire on one side and not on the other. It does have power from the back glass side however. Any thoughts on my problems?
0B46A06C-C72B-42F4-8CD4-0BA760C39CB5 (resized).jpeg55DE17D4-6B92-497D-AD55-080E59E3F2C0 (resized).jpeg591D5640-122B-4419-8D2D-72558A56FB4C (resized).jpegMy plug is the same.
I'm no pro at diagnosing the Bally boardset, but from what you've said, the only things that really remain are checking the MPU, checking the wiring, checking fuses or looking for broken wires.
Hi guys, I’m looking for a decent space invaders playfield, I would like all of the art to be intact, or at least 95% of it.
I missed out on the cpr run, but would love to have a nice example I could restore
Please message me
I recently got a Space Invaders pin to repair for an operator who never used it on location. It is in excellent condition
and has no playfield wear. The mpu board has a lot of battery acid damage and the acid dripped down to the
lamp driver board below it. The corrosion prevents me from being able to desolder the corroded SCRs to replace
them. The game is also missing the solenoid driver board. I already have the replacement boards so that's
not a problem. In return for repairing the game, the operator gave me a LOT of boards, parts, manuals, rubber
rings, fuses, lamps, etc. He is retiring so he doesn't this stuff anymore. He might decide to sell the game. I already
have 2 widebody games (Paragon and Future Spa) so I really don't have room for this game. Still, I might make
room for it because this is the best Space Invaders I've seen in the last 20 years.
Quoted from candyman:I recently got a Space Invaders pin to repair for an operator who never used it on location. It is in excellent condition
and has no playfield wear. The mpu board has a lot of battery acid damage and the acid dripped down to the
lamp driver board below it. The corrosion prevents me from being able to desolder the corroded SCRs to replace
them. The game is also missing the solenoid driver board. I already have the replacement boards so that's
not a problem. In return for repairing the game, the operator gave me a LOT of boards, parts, manuals, rubber
rings, fuses, lamps, etc. He is retiring so he doesn't this stuff anymore. He might decide to sell the game. I already
have 2 widebody games (Paragon and Future Spa) so I really don't have room for this game. Still, I might make
room for it because this is the best Space Invaders I've seen in the last 20 years.
Looking for an exceptional one here if you decide to sell it. The agent ships out of LA is all though....
Quoted from pinster68:Out of the blue just now I checked CPR for a new playfield ... and one showed up. That’s it. One. They’re sold out again. I’ve been waiting years for one. Mind blown. [quoted image]
Nice, I should have bought one a month ago, just don’t have a game to put it in. Some of my favorite art
Quoted from candyman:I recently got a Space Invaders pin to repair for an operator who never used it on location. It is in excellent condition
and has no playfield wear. The mpu board has a lot of battery acid damage and the acid dripped down to the
lamp driver board below it. The corrosion prevents me from being able to desolder the corroded SCRs to replace
them. The game is also missing the solenoid driver board. I already have the replacement boards so that's
not a problem. In return for repairing the game, the operator gave me a LOT of boards, parts, manuals, rubber
rings, fuses, lamps, etc. He is retiring so he doesn't this stuff anymore. He might decide to sell the game. I already
have 2 widebody games (Paragon and Future Spa) so I really don't have room for this game. Still, I might make
room for it because this is the best Space Invaders I've seen in the last 20 years.
Got any pics?
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