(Topic ID: 25089)

Space invaders Owners Club And Restorations Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

8 years ago



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  • Latest reply 31 days ago by vid1900
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There are 408 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 9.
#201 3 years ago

OK. Think I see where you are at.

Test point #1 on the rectifier board (BPS018) should be 5.4 VDC to supply the switched lamps, this does not go to the solenoid driver board. It goes straight to one side of each switched lamp socket. The other side of each lamp socket is controlled by the lamp driver board to enable a ground to turn on each of the lamps.

Test point #3 on the rectifier board (BPS018) should be 11.9 VDC. This goes to the solenoid driver board, to be converted to 5VDC logic power to run the games CPU.

Are you having a problem with the game running at all? or is it just a switched lamp problem?

1 week later
#202 3 years ago

Okay. Sorry for the long delay in responding. I was restoring a Meteor just to boost my confidence. I replaced the rectifier board successfully on that machine and got it working. I then had the confidence to return to space invaders.

Here is what I discovered. The space invaders rectifier board has different voltages due to it being a -49 board instead of -18. I have all of the correct voltages at the rectifier board. I tried again to hook up all of the boards. I disconnected everything in the backbox and connected the top right plug on the SDB. I got 5.4 on TP1. Woo Hoo.

After messing with a bunch of stuff i am finding that the problem is somewhere on the lamp driver board. If I unplug J4 on the LDB I get the correct voltages a the SDB and i get the correct blinks on the LED of the MPU board. The game however still doesn't start. I get a loud sound from the speaker when J4 is plugged in, but no sound when it is not plugged in. There isn't anything visually wrong with the LDB. I'm not sure where to go next.

Any Ideas?

I repinned all of the plugs. I did them one at a time and believe all of the wires are in the correct positions.

thanks guys

Aaron

#203 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Test point #1 on the rectifier board (BPS018) should be 5.4 VDC to supply the switched lamps, this does not go to the solenoid driver board. It goes straight to one side of each switched lamp socket. The other side of each lamp socket is controlled by the lamp driver board to enable a ground to turn on each of the lamps.

This tp1 voltage on the rectifier board is actually 7.8vdc which is correct for a -49 rectifier board on Space Invaders, Future Spa, and one other Bally according to http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm

Something seems to be going on at the Lamp Driver Board, but i'm not sure what.

#204 3 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

This tp1 voltage on the rectifier board is actually 7.8vdc which is correct for a -49 rectifier board on Space Invaders, Future Spa, and one other Bally according to http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm
Something seems to be going on at the Lamp Driver Board, but i'm not sure what.

He doesn't have a Bally -49, he has a Rottendog BPS018. Slightly different specs for tp1, but still sufficient.

Quoted from canoncitypb:

I just replaced the rectifier/power supply board in my Space invaders with a Rottendog bps018.

#205 3 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

If I unplug J4 on the LDB I get the correct voltages a the SDB and i get the correct blinks on the LED of the MPU board. The game however still doesn't start. I get a loud sound from the speaker when J4 is plugged in, but no sound when it is not plugged in. There isn't anything visually wrong with the LDB. I'm not sure where to go next.
Any Ideas?

Lamp driver just drives controlled lamps, so I'm thinking you might want to find out why you are not able to start a game. Are you able to add credits to the game? (with the lamp driver board failed, it might be hard to determine if you are even getting into attract mode)

#206 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

He doesn't have a Bally -49, he has a Rottendog BPS018. Slightly different specs for tp1, but still sufficient.

from what i understand it is the transformer that sends out different voltages on these few machines, which are then rectified by the board which is why even on the new rottendog board i'm getting the higher 7.8vdc.

Quoted from wayout440:

I'm thinking you might want to find out why you are not able to start a game. Are you able to add credits to the game?

I tried adding credits to the game, but nothing happened. I don't get any sounds. When i use the original SDB i get a click with the blinking lights on the MPU board. When I use a replacement rottendog SDB i don't get a click. I have also tried swapping out the MPU for a new replacement. I still get the blinking led, but no game start.

#207 3 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

from what i understand it is the transformer that sends out different voltages on these few machines, which are then rectified by the board which is why even on the new rottendog board i'm getting the higher 7.8vdc.

Correct. Here's the original bally specs.
TP1 (AS2518-18): 6.4 volts DC.
TP1 (AS2518-49): 8.2 volts DC.

The higher 7.8vdc is fine, the feature lights are getting proper supply voltage and are not that picky. We can safely ignore that now. The feature lamps are not working is because they are not getting switched on by the lamp driver board. Now, is this because the lamp driver board has a problem, or because the MPU (s) not telling the lamp driver to turn them on?

Are the score displays lighting up and blinking?
Are the infinity chase lights running on the perimeter of the backglass?

#208 3 years ago

One of the infinity lights is on, but doesn't blink. The displays flash very briefly and then just have that faint orange glow towards the bottom.

#209 3 years ago

Mines going up for sale soon, complete with overlay in a tube. LMK if interested.

Screenshot_20170328-222841 (resized).png

#210 3 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

One of the infinity lights is on, but doesn't blink. The displays flash very briefly and then just have that faint orange glow towards the bottom.

Your MPU isn't running. This is what the backbox should look like in attract mode

Double check the test points on the MPU, and write down the exact voltages you are getting

TP1 = +5 vdc (min 4.7 VDC)
TP2 = +11.9 vdc
TP3 = +21.5 vdc (comes from +43 vdc solenoid voltage)
TP4 = Ground
TP5 = +5 vdc (min 4.7 VDC)

#211 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Double check the test points on the MPU, and write down the exact voltages you are getting

TP1 = +5 vdc (min 4.7 VDC)
TP2 = +11.9 vdc
TP3 = +21.5 vdc (comes from +43 vdc solenoid voltage)
TP4 = Ground
TP5 = +5 vdc (min 4.7 VDC)

Okay, here is what I got. First of all, I'm not getting the correct number of blinks from the LED which you probably already guessed. I only get 5 blinks after the first one.

I have 5vdc at tp1 and tp5, I have 14.1vdc at tp2 and nothing at tp3

#212 3 years ago

First thing to check is the under the playfield fuse might be blown. Next check fuse F4 on the power supply regulator board. Also check it's fuse clip is in good condition with good tension, and is not brown. Now check TP5 (test point 5) on the power supply regulator board. A voltage of about 43 vdc should be seen. If no voltage at TP5, assume the bridge BR3 on this board is bad and replace it.

After getting +43 vdc at TP5, then check connector J1, pin 6 on the power supply regulator board. This brown wire goes directly to the playfield flipper coils. If there is +43 volts at the connector, but not at the brown wire on the flipper coils, there is a problem in the wiring.

If the game is not getting the 7th MPU LED flash, that means +43 volts is missing. After checking all the above, verify there is +43 vdc on the MPU board on the left (connector) side of R113. Now check the right side of R113. If no voltage there, then replace R113 (2k, 1/4 watt) and retest. If still no voltage, there may be battery corrosion damage in this area of the MPU board.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm

#213 3 years ago

Thanks. I'm going to start working on that tonight. I really appreciate the clear instructions.

#214 3 years ago

okay, F4 was blown. When i replaced it the game came up. The displays worked, credits were added, game started, began to play, right flippers stopped working, fuse blew again and game stopped. I thought perhaps there was something wrong with the right flippers. I checked and the retaining clip on the plunger and link came off and the small flipper would not slide easily into the coil. I took it apart, cleaned it and put it back together with a new retaining clip. Replaced the fuse, turned the game back on and the fuse blew again immediately. Not sure what would make this fuse blow at start up. Any ideas?

#215 3 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

okay, F4 was blown. When i replaced it the game came up. The displays worked, credits were added, game started, began to play, right flippers stopped working, fuse blew again and game stopped. I thought perhaps there was something wrong with the right flippers. I checked and the retaining clip on the plunger and link came off and the small flipper would not slide easily into the coil. I took it apart, cleaned it and put it back together with a new retaining clip. Replaced the fuse, turned the game back on and the fuse blew again immediately. Not sure what would make this fuse blow at start up. Any ideas?

Seems likely that since the problem occurred during right flipper actuation, that the problem is probably on the right side flipper circuit. Likely one of the diodes on one of the coils could have failed, allowing reverse current to damage the solenoid supply circuit. Disconnect the right flipper solenoids for now. You can connect them up one at a time later, but check the coils and diodes first before you do.

Also try removing connectors J1 and J3 from the rectifier board (this moves the solenoid power back a step further, not allowing it to get any further than the rectifier board). Replace fuse F4 on the solenoid driver board, and turn the game on. If the fuse still blows, the solenoid bridge rectifier (on the rectifier board) or the rectifier board's varister is probably at fault.

#216 3 years ago

disconnected one side of each of the right flippers. Fuse still blew. I unplugged J1 AND J3. The fuse still blows. Tested all three rectifiers. all three registered 500 at each leg. I disconnected one end of the varister and got infinite resistance. ugh. what next?

#217 3 years ago

Check the 600 ohm resistor across the bridge (lift one leg to measure)
Check for board shorts, anywhere after fuse and after bridge, check J2 header
Bridge is actually faulty, but your just not seeing it with your DMM measurements

....That's really all I can think of.

#218 3 years ago

thanks. I'll check that stuff. I really appreciate you responding and helping so much.

1 week later
#219 3 years ago

Seems like the issue was in the solenoid board and the smaller lamp board. I switched out the solenoid board and disconnected both light boards and the game turns on and plays. I'll need to fiddle some more to figure out what is up with the lamp boards, but at least it is some progress. one of the transistors blew on the new rectifier board, so there is another issue there somewhere. It was good to at least get to play a couple of games. I have really missed it.

#220 3 years ago

Has anybody heard from CPR where they are at with SI and having to redraw the art from scratch?

#221 3 years ago
Quoted from VDrums2112:

Has anybody heard from CPR where they are at with SI and having to redraw the art from scratch?

Haven't heard anything ... just the same update posted on their pre-order page....

"DELAY: This playfield production was to be based on original Bally films - which have now been discovered to be wrong version & incomplete. We are still committed to seeing this run happen, but new artwork is underway (from scratch) to make this happen."

That's going to be one beauty of a playfield.

4 weeks later
#222 3 years ago

I bought a space invaders in November had to replace u9 chip. The power supply was hacked so I replaced it. It had crossed wires had 40v on my controlled lights have new pop and passive bumbers new drop targets new plastics siegcraft anti flicker led adapters have wiring issues on about 15 lights when those are fixed ill be tearing it apart to put a new overlay on

20170507_210035 (resized).jpg

20170427_192127 (resized).jpg

#223 3 years ago

Lol.... Thinking of funny places to put that topper besides the game.

Also going to see Alien Covenant this afternoon.

#224 3 years ago

Hi, new to this thread. Just bought me a Space Invaders machine. I noticed in one thread (it might have been this one) that the gray base coat has a spackling of silver on it before the red and black are painted. What other weird quirks do I need to be aware of when working on this guy? I am relatively new to fixing pinball machines as well, so even the most 'everybody knows' items are relevant to my question. I'm sure I'll be coming back with more narrowed down questions as the process continues. But just an 'FYI as you are working, watch for this' kinda stuff. Thanks in advance.

#225 3 years ago
Quoted from jdrenner32:

Hi, new to this thread. Just bought me a Space Invaders machine. I noticed in one thread (it might have been this one) that the gray base coat has a spackling of silver on it before the red and black are painted. What other weird quirks do I need to be aware of when working on this guy? I am relatively new to fixing pinball machines as well, so even the most 'everybody knows' items are relevant to my question. I'm sure I'll be coming back with more narrowed down questions as the process continues. But just an 'FYI as you are working, watch for this' kinda stuff. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the thread and SI ownership. To be honest, there's no need for being concerned about the silver paint spackling for general "working on this guy". Its a basic early solid state Bally with very common electrical and mechanical systems. Now if you are talking about repainting the cab, that's a whole specialized field of pinball. Most pin collectors simply do not repaint cabs. Your question might be better addressed by postng it on its own thread.

#226 3 years ago

Hmm. Thanks for the info. Is that just because its too expensive and time consuming to repaint?

#227 3 years ago
Quoted from jdrenner32:

Hmm. Thanks for the info. Is that just because its too expensive and time consuming to repaint?

IMHO, I think it is only worthwhile if you plan on keeping it for an extended time, and you are going to go all in with cosmetics on everything else in the game. When you make something extra nice like a playfield or cab, anything sub-par tends to stand out more. Sometimes existing parts might actually look a bit worse than before...just because of the "contrast" against the nicely redone parts. Just think what a car looks like if you paint the body and stick rusty chrome on it. Tends to look worse than it did against the aged paint.

Paint itself isn't that expensive, but the stencils can be a bit pricey. If the stencils are not available, you'll have to make your own. I think they are available for SI. To do it right, you have to strip everything out and have the space to do it. That can be a real pain if you have to do it all outside like I did. A painting tent would have been helpful. There were a lot of days where the weather didn't cooperate, making the whole project take longer.

I don't mean to dissuade you, just trying to give info. If you have the space, the means, and your heart is in it - by all means make it pretty if you want.

#228 3 years ago
Quoted from jdrenner32:

Hmm. Thanks for the info. Is that just because its too expensive and time consuming to repaint?

At any pinball show, the repainted cabs look TERRIBLE as you walk down the rows.

Everyone thinks that if they buy a stencil kit they will achieve HEP results, and that is almost never the case.

Go to the next show in your area, you'll see what I mean.

#229 3 years ago

Yeah, I noticed those stencils can be a bit costly. I'm not at all dissuaded, I had a general idea this was going to be time consuming when I got this machine. In this case, I think it will look better if its painted. There wasn't a play-field with it, it was only the cabinet and the back-box (both back-glasses were in there and intact, though!). There were about 40% of the electronics and no legs. So its going to take a lot of new parts to get this back up and running. I haven't done a full inventory on which pieces are there and which are not yet. But it's gonna be fun!

#230 3 years ago

I have a lead at one from a guy from work. The playfield is bad, what is the deal CPR? Overlay? Paint it? Any advance from you guys that have done this is appreciated!

#231 3 years ago

CPR has one in the works but there are delays. I went ahead and did my own overlay. Worked out great!

IMG_8485 (resized).JPG

IMG_8486 (resized).JPG

#232 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

CPR has one in the works but there are delays. I went ahead and did my own overlay. Worked out great!

Im about to do an overlay and was told to cut the shooter lane out. Im worried that the will be a bump at the transition from wood to over lay or does the clear coat take care of that. I would also appreciate any advice

1 month later
#233 3 years ago

I was changing some settings on my machine today. The dum dum dum dum sound that runs in the background always turns off when another sound is playing. On the sound options, it says the background can play with the switch noises if both 29 and 30 are in the on position. I would prefer if the background sound was not interrupted each time the other sounds come on, but it seems like maybe this isn't an option. I've tried to watch some other videos and it seems the same on those machines.

Just wanted to check here to see if there is a way for the background to not be interrupted by the switch noises. I would prefer them to play simultaneously.

thanks,
aaron

#234 3 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

I was changing some settings on my machine today. The dum dum dum dum sound that runs in the background always turns off when another sound is playing. On the sound options, it says the background can play with the switch noises if both 29 and 30 are in the on position. I would prefer if the background sound was not interrupted each time the other sounds come on, but it seems like maybe this isn't an option. I've tried to watch some other videos and it seems the same on those machines.
Just wanted to check here to see if there is a way for the background to not be interrupted by the switch noises. I would prefer them to play simultaneously.
thanks,
aaron

Sorry but that was the way it was for the technology of the time. You'll find this on all the machines of this series, watch a video of Silverball Mania, for example.

#235 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

technology of the time

thanks,

does anyone actually shoot for the drop targets on the left or the messenger ball as part of their strategy? I'm not sure if it is just the way my machine has been set up, but those features seem wasted over on that side. I like the ideas, i just don't understand how it could be worth the risk as the ball seems to drain like crazy from there.

#236 3 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

thanks,
does anyone actually shoot for the drop targets on the left or the messenger ball as part of their strategy?.

If I remember correctly, awards for these features carry over from ball to ball, so definitely worth shooting at.

2 weeks later
#237 3 years ago
Quoted from arqpuebla:

Hello to all.
Would like to share with you, my new acquisition.
It's in really good shape, some eventually wear as you can see on those pics.
I will restore it soon, but I can't decide if I go for a complete mylar removal (yes has mylar on all the pf) or maybe just clean /polish de mylar and wax .
What you would do?
Cheers!

As I posted time ago,. I got a SI with some kind of full of vinyl sticked.

Against all odds, I just couldn't live with that dull PF.
I decided to pull it away, and I got a great surprise , under that old dirty vynil was a great pf, with out dirt or grime nor ball trails!!!.

I started a post, to not spam this one with my step by step tear down and restore.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-invaders-a-step-by-step-restore-recommendations-r-welcome

#238 3 years ago

Congratulations. That does look pretty good underneath. Thanks for posting. I'll check back in to see how it is coming.

2 weeks later
#239 3 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

Small flipper on right side is cracked, need replacement(s)

Me too. Does anybody know where to source these flippers?

steve

#240 3 years ago
Quoted from sscharf:

Me too. Does anybody know where to source these flippers?
steve

Steve Young at the Pinball Resource has them I believe.

#241 3 years ago
Quoted from sscharf:

Me too. Does anybody know where to source these flippers?
steve

I bougth them at bigdaddy, with black lettering.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

#242 3 years ago
Quoted from arqpuebla:

I bougth them at bigdaddy, with black lettering.
http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

That's a winner! Just ordered.

steve

#243 3 years ago

Anybody have an idea of where to get a placement guide to drill all the holes on the playfield for lights and wiring? I've tried finding something but to no avail. I could probably piece it together from all the different images I have found, but everything I have seen is the front and that doesn't easily show all of them.

#244 3 years ago
Quoted from jdrenner32:

Anybody have an idea of where to get a placement guide to drill all the holes on the playfield for lights and wiring? I've tried finding something but to no avail. I could probably piece it together from all the different images I have found, but everything I have seen is the front and that doesn't easily show all of them.

If you need lots of pics, I'm restoring a SI (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-invaders-a-step-by-step-restore-recommendations-r-welcome)

And in this album I have all the tear down pics. almost 400.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/arqpuebla/E338Pd

good luck!

#245 3 years ago

Yeah, I found those just after I posted that message. I am thinking that is what I am gonna have to use. Getting a projector. Lol Thanks for the help. arqpuebla

#246 3 years ago
Quoted from jdrenner32:

Yeah, I found those just after I posted that message. I am thinking that is what I am gonna have to use. Getting a projector. Lol Thanks for the help. arqpuebla

Ur welcome! Please let me know if you need something more, like a specific picture or something
Best regards
Alex

2 months later
#247 3 years ago

Hi,
I have a playfield that needs a bit of TLC and I'm looking to get an overlay for it, I want to hang it on a wall, not to play on it so the quality doesn't need to be rock solid, does anyone know where I can get an image I could get printed to stick on.
Many thanks.

4 weeks later
#248 3 years ago

Hello. I am seeking a 1 scan of the Space Invaders playfield, or at least the area between the bonus chamber and the flippers.
Thank you.

3 months later
#249 2 years ago

Looking for. Space Invaders cab and head for a resto, any Cindy considered, hopefully in the NY NJ PA area Allentown pick up possible as well, will consider empty or parts games. Feel free to call or text Kevin 908-202-0687 thanks.

#250 2 years ago
Quoted from MarcelG:

Hello. I am seeking a 1 scan of the Space Invaders playfield, or at least the area between the bonus chamber and the flippers.
Thank you.

Send me a PM with an email address. I have a huge PDF file that I think is pretty decent. You might have to convert it to jpeg (or something else) and do some color work to get a decent match.

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