Space invaders Owners Club And Restorations Fans Also Welcome.

(Topic ID: 25089)

Space invaders Owners Club And Restorations Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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  • 270 posts
  • 62 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by Mk1Mod0
  • Topic is favorited by 27 Pinsiders

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There are 270 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 6.
#151 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

A few days to let the adhesive set and I will throw on some waxing and buffing. After that its rebuild city!

I am going to do an overlay on an EBD playfield this winter. Does it need to be clearcoated or have mylar applied to protect it? One other option is the clear polycarbonate protectors from SSpruch Spielautomaten. Or, is waxing adequate to fend off wear to the overlay? It just seems like it would need something to keep it protected. Thoughts?

#152 2 years ago

I have considered doing the mylar but I think I will do without. Mine was printed and then a clear layer put over it so the ball will never touch the ink. As long as I keep it clean and waxed it should last a good long time. There are many opinions as to what should be done and this is what I am doing.

All options have good and bad properties. A good 2-part autoclear would be best, if you have the capability or someone you know and trust does. We all know mylar will eventually bubble and scratch. After taking mine to three shows and throwing on a few thousand games and seeing how well my cheap decal held up I think this level will do me fine. If you care for it, it will last.

#153 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Mine was printed and then a clear layer put over it so the ball will never touch the ink. As long as I keep it clean and waxed it should last a good long time.

Where did you get your overlay? I purchased mine from Classic Arcades but I don't know much about how it's made.

#154 2 years ago

My overlay is a copy of one I purchased years ago from an individual at a show. I had it scanned and then had my local Fast Signs store print it out for me. I have no idea how the Classic Arcades ones were done. Sorry.

#155 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

I have considered doing the mylar .... If you care for it, it will last.

Hey, I am about the biggest anti-mylar pinhead around. I've removed Mylar full sheets from every game I have had, except Space Invaders. This games Mylar is still in pretty good shape, and the artwork on this playfield so intricate, so precious, that only in the absolute worst case should I consider removing it. Don't let it bother you if the Mylar is not 100 percent perfect. It feels good to play an unmolested classic once in a while. Though there was a fairly large production of this game, most are either worn to the wood, touched up and cleared, or overlays. Don't overlook the value a collector will place on an original pin. Keep your repros and your auto clear coats, folks. My dollar only goes to original pins

#156 2 years ago

With so many of the SI playfields worn to wood, I figured there never was factory mylar installed. After you guys saying yours did have it, I stand corrected. I got the original owners pack with my SI (that I bought used), and all it had was 1/2 circle sling mylar that came with it. Anybody know what the percentage was Mylar SI's to no Mylar SI's? Might be a good thing to have on IPMD since it doesnt say anything about it either way.

#157 2 years ago

I bought two together and both were worn to the wood with mylar half circles at the slings and rings around the active pops.

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#158 2 years ago

Man, Space Invaders must have been a HUGELY popular game in the arcades in its time....I can understand a fast-playing regular-sized game, especially one with a multiball feature, something like Firepower or Centaur, having playfields worn to the wood on so many examples. But Space Invaders was a wide-assed single-balled behemoth and still you see so many of them with so much wear. I guess they got a lot of love and a lot of quarters in their day.

#159 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Man, Space Invaders must have been a HUGELY popular game in the arcades in its time..

Absolutely. The layout works, the play is fast and the theme was right on the money. Sometimes simpler is better. But there is plenty to shoot for and a high risk/reward on the center horse shoe. This is permanent collection material alongside my EBD. (My brother got the other SI.)

#160 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I guess they got a lot of love and a lot of quarters in their day.

Gave mine some love yesterday and posted my top score. They didn't sell 11,400 units simply because it was pretty.

#161 2 years ago

finished up the space invaders pin this weekend and now time to get ready for expo 20161010_105354 (resized).jpg20161010_105301 (resized).jpg20161010_105317 (resized).jpg20161010_105301 (resized).jpg20161010_105342 (resized).jpg20161010_104907 (resized).jpg20161010_104931 (resized).jpg20161010_104938 (resized).jpg20161010_105424 (resized).jpg20161010_104847 (resized).jpg20161010_104856 (resized).jpg

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#162 2 years ago

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#163 2 years ago

Thank you! For your time sharing your thoughts.
Will do just that.
And yes its not a mylar, I tried to pull one corner under apron, and it's kind of soft and it stretches.

Can't see much wear under that vynil. It's in pretty good shape.

But yes, I guess if it has some planking or weak paint , if I try to pull the vynil out, I guess it will show.

Quoted from Fourbyracer:

I havent seen one with mylar on it before other than little semi circle pieces that shipped with it if the user wanted to put them in front of the slings. I dont think a custom mylar playfield piece was available for that machine until many years after it was made and the cuts on that mylar doesnt look perfectly even--so it was probably custom made by the owner. So since it was probably put on over an already damaged playfield, the risk of pulling lots of paint is probably too great to justify.
So if it were mine, I would clean it up the best I could, polish the mylar as best you can, re-paint where the mylar was missing, and call it good. For me, it would either be that, or start over with the board and put a full overlay on it (which you can still see pop up for sale from time to time). Also CPR is collecting orders for a reproduction playfield--not sure how many more they have to have before they will build them but you might email them. Here is the page for the pre-order: http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html
Good luck!
Fourbyracer

#164 2 years ago

Does anyone have a good playfield scan of SI in PDF format? Please PM me if you do.

#165 2 years ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

Thanks guys. I found the pages on the schematic and was going to check the voltages there. The pictures are great! I really appreciate those. I'll give it another go tomorrow.
thanks,

Did you get your rectifier board to work properly?

#166 2 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

Did you get your rectifier board to work properly?

I have been putting it off and doing other repairs to other machines. I may get to it today. Sometimes when i am frustrated, i need to take a break for awhile

2 months later
#167 2 years ago

Hello all,
I am new to this thread. I purchased a Space Invaders pinball last year from a private owner who said it was working but needed fixes in the power supply. I could see burnt connectors on the power board, but the price was good and I took it home where it sat for over a year in major pieces in my basement. The only thing I did buy for it was the special front-glass since someone had replaced it with straight single-pane clear glass and it really made the back board look funny.
So, fast-forward to about four days ago. We hauled it all upstairs and put it together. I spent an afternoon validating voltages on the transformer and rectifier board. The transformer was wired for 115 and I changed it to 120 after checking my household voltage was at about 123. Eventually everything got plugged in and the machine essentially "works."
Here are some details about the machine:
- There is a mylar sheet over the primary playfield, I hadn't noticed it previously but it's there.
- the playfield is in really nice shape, probably due to the mylar
- All plastics appear to be in great shape, I haven't found any cracks or broken pieces as yet
- Machine serial number is ESI7081 and I just registered it on the serial database web site
- The horseshoe tunnel has the larger inner posts (plastic) instead of the slender metal-only posts
- I have both the machine specific manual, with schematics, and the general Bally maintenance guide for this era
- The machine plays pretty well
Here is a list of items I need to repair/replace and I could use some pointers:
- Small flipper on right side is cracked, need replacement(s)
- Small flipper on left is limping; low power flips and sometimes goes dead when "holding"
- All bumper tops are burnt from lamps, need all (four passive, three power), where is best source
- the lamps between the three lanes at the top all have a clear plastic tube on them and they are cracking/falling apart; what is best to do with these?
- I would like to replace all lamps with LED, what is the process and best parts, and suppliers?
- The scoring displays flicker, I don't remember if they are supposed to do that, it's kind of annoying
- I'll probably need to replace all the rubber on it, I've already done a few items but overall it all should be gone through
My son of 13 years is very much enjoying the game so far, as is my wife. I plan to do work on it as I am able to between other projects and hobbies.
I would appreciate any pointers I should know about keeping it in good shape, replacing the parts I need and making it even better. Here is one photo. I have more photos in the gallery on my website, but I'm having issues with creating thumbnails right now. You can browse them (without thumbnails) here:
http://www.asajay.com/gallery2/v/asajay/1980SpaceIvadersPinball/
Thanks
Asa Jay

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Added over 2 years ago: Updated the photo album so the link has changed slightly, please use this one:

http://www.asajay.com/gallery2/v/1980SpaceIvadersPinball/

#168 2 years ago

Great looking machine! Here's a few resources for ya.

Quoted from asajay:

- Small flipper on right side is cracked, need replacement(s)

PBR aka Steve Young's Pinball Resource has these and most of the other stuff you will need.

Quoted from asajay:

- Small flipper on left is limping; low power flips and sometimes goes dead when "holding"

Probably just needs adjusting and proper gapping on the EOS (end of stroke) switch.

Quoted from asajay:

- All bumper tops are burnt from lamps, need all (four passive, three power), where is best source

PBR

Quoted from asajay:

- the lamps between the three lanes at the top all have a clear plastic tube on them and they are cracking/falling apart; what is best to do with these?

The tubes are faded, they were originally red to give off a lighting effect. PBR had these as well as green ones some people put over the GI lights in the clone chamber area.

Fresh rubber will go a long ways towards making it play better. It is one of my all time favs and will never leave my collection. Enjoy!

Shawn

Quoted from asajay:

- The scoring displays flicker, I don't remember if they are supposed to do that, it's kind of annoying

Nope. Not supposed to flicker. Probably cracked solder joints. Pinwiki has an entire chapter of beefing up score displays. Check it out.

#169 2 years ago

I'm working on a Bally Space Invaders project game and I have a hacked wiring harness. Specifically, it is the cable that goes from the rectangular molex connector in the backbox to the 20 pin connector on the transformer power supply board. Someone cut off all the wiring at the 20 pin power supply connector and did some other hacks.

I found the following wires soldered together and I'm not sure if this correct:
-A small gauge gray and yellow wire
-2 large gauge yellow wires
-2 large gauge orange/red wires with a small gauge orange wire

I've attached a picture of the wiring harness.

Does anyone have a picture of their harness they can post?

SI cable harness (resized).jpg

#170 2 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

- I would like to replace all lamps with LED, what is the process and best parts, and suppliers?

This makes me sad

#171 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Great looking machine! Here's a few resources for ya.

PBR aka Steve Young's Pinball Resource has these and most of the other stuff you will need.

Probably just needs adjusting and proper gapping on the EOS (end of stroke) switch.

PBR

The tubes are faded, they were originally red to give off a lighting effect. PBR had these as well as green ones some people put over the GI lights in the clone chamber area.
Fresh rubber will go a long ways towards making it play better. It is one of my all time favs and will never leave my collection. Enjoy!
Shawn

Nope. Not supposed to flicker. Probably cracked solder joints. Pinwiki has an entire chapter of beefing up score displays. Check it out.

Thank you Mk1Mod0 for the information. I'll begin looking at those resources.

wayout440; I'm sorry the idea of replacing all the lamps with LEDs makes you sad. It's something I'm considering because they give off a lot of heat and use a lot of energy. I figure any reduction in power I can manage will only help the machine with a much longer life. I have hundreds of the correct bulbs that came with the machine so it's not like I'm short on them, and I -have- been replacing burnt bulbs. I'm not looking to create a wild color-crazy playfield with them, just wanting to cut down on the power. Even if I choose not to replace them all, I would certainly replace all those under the bumpers, to avoid burning the bumper caps again.

Asa Jay

#172 2 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

wayout440; I'm sorry the idea of replacing all the lamps with LEDs makes you sad. It's something I'm considering because they give off a lot of heat and use a lot of energy. I figure any reduction in power I can manage will only help the machine with a much longer life. I have hundreds of the correct bulbs that came with the machine so it's not like I'm short on them, and I -have- been replacing burnt bulbs. I'm not looking to create a wild color-crazy playfield with them, just wanting to cut down on the power. Even if I choose not to replace them all, I would certainly replace all those under the bumpers, to avoid burning the bumper caps again.
Asa Jay

It's ok. If you are going to stick with whites and not colorize it. I am actually a fan of LEDs, and promote the benefits of them. I have put LEDs in a lot of my games, both my current collection and some that are now gone. Recently I have started to turn a new leaf regarding the look of classic games. In the case of Space Invaders, I have seen a lot of them colorized sooooo poorly. The artwork on this game is outstanding, and IMHO, deserves only LEDs that are as close as possible to the look of incandescent. I was just hackin' on ya...no hard feelings.

#173 2 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

Thank you Mk1Mod0 for the information. I'll begin looking at those resources.
wayout440; I'm sorry the idea of replacing all the lamps with LEDs makes you sad. It's something I'm considering because they give off a lot of heat and use a lot of energy. I figure any reduction in power I can manage will only help the machine with a much longer life. I have hundreds of the correct bulbs that came with the machine so it's not like I'm short on them, and I -have- been replacing burnt bulbs. I'm not looking to create a wild color-crazy playfield with them, just wanting to cut down on the power. Even if I choose not to replace them all, I would certainly replace all those under the bumpers, to avoid burning the bumper caps again.
Asa Jay

I have an SI converted to just regular "retro look" LED's. The old 44 bulbs burned up the plastics and the LED's wont do that in my experience. Also worth it for less power draw on the whole system as you stated. I think it came out great and I built it with what I would call "First Generation" LED's from about 5 years ago. What is available today is heads and tails better, and cheaper. My hands down favorite LED bulb store is Comet. Here are some "Retro" ones that bring you very close to the 44's in terms of light and color. http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1retroled.htm
I actually went with the 2 LED version of these to brighten things up. I put some colored ones behind the backglass, and check out the "Matrix" system on that sight. That whole system gives you tons of possibilities from GI to backbox lighting, to flashers, to playfield lighting from the drain hole area. Lots of ways to improve on the board without going overboard in my opinion. I love my 2LED clear retro bulbs for the infinity lighting in the backbox. Finally also check out the 2 SMD (surface mounted diode) bulbs with the fluted lenses. Can give a pretty cool starburst effect to plastics if you like that.

Marco has a repro of the Susan B. Anthony sticker you are missing on the coin door. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/BLYSTKS

For Pop Bumper caps, they are on Ebay for the custom ones I have pictured. They are not perfect usually as far as printing, but a huge improvement over burned up original ones. I also replaced the top passive bumper caps with blank ones and then had custom space invader characters made to fit them. I put bullseye stickers on the targets, and also have the custom space invader character drop targets. Finally I wired in 2 new light sockets for the red eyes in the backglass. Very easy to do without permanent modifications nowadays with that Comet Matrix system. Lots of ways to go with it and lots of little things you can do to make it your own. Bottom line, have fun modding and playing it! Good luck!

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#174 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

In the case of Space Invaders, I have seen a lot of them colorized sooooo poorly. The artwork on this game is outstanding, and IMHO, deserves only LEDs that are as close as possible to the look of incandescent. I was just hackin' on ya...no hard feelings.

Agreed, white would be the way to go.

Fourbyracer; That's a good looking machine and thank you for the links.

I had the credit/match display go out sometime today when my wife and son were playing. Nothing on any digit at all. I swapped displays with one of the player displays and the problem follows the display board. Not much to it. What typically goes wrong on these? The caps, the Zener or something else? My guess is the zener. I'll keep troubleshooting it and see what I find.

Asa Jay

Update (a little later), it looks like the display panel itself is bad. All voltages and data appeared to be coursing through the board. I had a spare display panel in the parts stash that came with the machine. If I gently hold all the leads of the spare panel to the circuit board, it lights up, whereas the one installed to the board does not. So my guess is the panel is bad. I'm going to have to start making a list of spare parts.

1 week later
#175 2 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

- I would like to replace all lamps with LED, what is the process and best parts, and suppliers?

To use LED's in your inserts and other controlled lamps, you'll need something to keep them from flickering. One solution is the Ultimate LED/Lamp Driver board from Alltek Systems.
http://www.allteksystems.com/products-mpu-replacements.html#lamp

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I think you'd also need Alltek's Auxilary Lamp Driver board as SI has an Aux lamp board as well.
aux-lamp-driver (resized).jpg

There are other less expensive ways to stop the flicker but I don't recall them right now. I'd have to research it again.

-Steve

#176 2 years ago
Quoted from VDrums2112:

There are other less expensive ways to stop the flicker but I don't recall them right now. I'd have to research it again.
-Steve

I used the resistor method on my Bally Strikes and Spares, because I only wanted to LED the star rollovers to brighten them up a bit. Here's the details:

"Once upon a time there was a led that flickered when it was installed in an older Bally or Stern pinball machine. The LEDS flickered on any machine that used a Bally As2518-14, AS2518-23, or Stern LDB-100. These lamp driver modules were used from 1977 thru 1989. These boards use SCRs to switch # 44 Lamps on and off in pinball machines. This has worked well for many years, until someone tried to use a led instead of a #44 lamp. The LED flickered. I discovered that the reason the led flickered was that the LED drew no current below it’s forward bias point that it would not hold an scr latched. If a resistor is added in parallel with the led, it would draw enough current to keep the scr latched and there was no flicker. (Life is Good). Through testing I found that a 470 olhm resistor was more than enough to keep any of the scrs that I tested latched. The 470 olhm resistor can be added in the socket of the led, soldered across the lamp socket, or soldered on the lamp driver module. The electrons don’t know or care where the resistor lives, as long as it will cause a 1ma load to the anode of the scr. All 3 ways have been done and they all work well."

#177 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

"Once upon a time there was a led that flickered

That was a beautiful story man... Beautiful!

#178 2 years ago

I have the Alltek MPU in mine but all other boards are numbers matching original. Entire game is converted to LED and I have not seen any flicker whatsoever. I would suggest putting in the LED's first and then changing lamp driver boards only if needed. There are also LED's out there that are anti flickering and anti ghosting so that is also an option--again only if you are having issues.

1 week later
#179 2 years ago

Battery info!
My Space Invaders is not keeping my programming very well. The first that goes is the lowest of the high scores for replay. Though I set it to 460,000, within a few days of being off and on, the score sets to about 20,000. This is convenient in that it pretty much ensures a game each time you play, but it's annoying because if I let the machine sit for a few days without turning it on, it clears everything, including replays, high score and replay scores.

I discovered the battery that was installed before I got the machine is a 3V Lithium. I put a voltmeter across it when the machine was ON and got 5V. With the machine OFF I got .5V (yes, half a volt). I also found someone used a very poor job of soldering wires to the battery (a no-no by the way) and then to the board. I used a set of diagonal cutters to snip the wires and removed the battery. it doesn't appear to be a "rechargeable" battery either.

Checking a few things on-line, I see that some folks replace the battery with a coin-cell or other replacement 3V non-chargeable battery. I also see that in order to properly do that, a resistor needs to be changed to a diode, to prevent the system from attempting to charge the battery.

Inspecting my MPU, I find R12 is still installed... meaning it was never swapped out when this Lithium was put in. It's probably lucky it didn't explode at some point.

I am now in a position that I need to replace this battery. I found one place that offers an AA 3.6V rechargeable Ni-MH battery, but other than that, it looks like most are non-rechargeable. I stopped at a BatteriesPlus tonight but they wanted to sell me a rechargeable triple-pack for a wireless phone. I could have made it work but for $20 I figured there was something better to be had.

What is the collective wisdom here? Replace with a non-rechargeable and swap R12 for a diode? Or go with the rechargeable, and if so, what do you put in?

Thank you for the recommendations ahead of time.
Asa

#180 2 years ago

NVRAM or an Altek board.

Worse case, get a three AA battery holder, solder wire to it, add spade lugs at the board, and have the wire long enough for the battery pack to be on the coin box,run the wire to the board. That way you don't have to remove the backglass to replace the battery. Make sure you use male and female lugs so you can't reverse polarity at the MPU. Don't forget the diode so you don't try to charge the AA batteries.

#181 2 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

if so, what do you put in?
Thank you for the recommendations ahead of time.
Asa

I put a memory capacitor in mine. Never have to worry about it again.

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#182 2 years ago
Quoted from asajay:

Battery info!
My Space Invaders is not keeping my programming very well. The first that goes is the lowest of the high scores for replay. Though I set it to 460,000, within a few days of being off and on, the score sets to about 20,000. This is convenient in that it pretty much ensures a game each time you play, but it's annoying because if I let the machine sit for a few days without turning it on, it clears everything, including replays, high score and replay scores.
I discovered the battery that was installed before I got the machine is a 3V Lithium. I put a voltmeter across it when the machine was ON and got 5V. With the machine OFF I got .5V (yes, half a volt). I also found someone used a very poor job of soldering wires to the battery (a no-no by the way) and then to the board. I used a set of diagonal cutters to snip the wires and removed the battery. it doesn't appear to be a "rechargeable" battery either.
Checking a few things on-line, I see that some folks replace the battery with a coin-cell or other replacement 3V non-chargeable battery. I also see that in order to properly do that, a resistor needs to be changed to a diode, to prevent the system from attempting to charge the battery.
Inspecting my MPU, I find R12 is still installed... meaning it was never swapped out when this Lithium was put in. It's probably lucky it didn't explode at some point.
I am now in a position that I need to replace this battery. I found one place that offers an AA 3.6V rechargeable Ni-MH battery, but other than that, it looks like most are non-rechargeable. I stopped at a BatteriesPlus tonight but they wanted to sell me a rechargeable triple-pack for a wireless phone. I could have made it work but for $20 I figured there was something better to be had.
What is the collective wisdom here? Replace with a non-rechargeable and swap R12 for a diode? Or go with the rechargeable, and if so, what do you put in?
Thank you for the recommendations ahead of time.
Asa

1 and done!
http://www.pinitech.com/products/5101_nvram.php

#183 2 years ago

Space Invaders help and picture needed. Trying to get my S.I. Up ands running and I want to repair a hack on the backside of the playfield. Could someone post a very clear picture of the backside of the upper right playfield near the top row of bumpers? I can't figure out what's going on with mine (see photos below). It looks like I have a fuse holder that I didn't even see in the one photo I found elsewhere in the forum. Thanks!

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#184 2 years ago

Looks like a homebrew hack for the GI circuit.

#185 2 years ago

Space invaders has a 20A fuse under the playfield. The holder looks non standard but I believe this isn't a hack

#186 2 years ago

The only fuse under the play field on SI is this one, between the lower flippers. Yours appears to be a hack on the GI.
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Here's a shot for comparison. Might not be the best since I have replaced the braid with conductive foil, but I can get more specific shots if you need them. My P/F is currently outside of the machine and easily photographed.
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#187 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

The only fuse under the play field on SI is this one, between the lower flippers. Yours appears to be a hack on the GI.

Here's a shot for comparison. Might not be the best since I have replaced the braid with conductive foil, but I can get more specific shots if you need them. My P/F is currently outside of the machine and easily photographed.

Thanks for the photo. If I could get a shot of what the double red wires and the orange wire are soldered to, that would be great. You can see in my photo they are all taped together. I can't quite make out where they terminate on yours. Thanks!

#188 2 years ago

Here's some pics I took of the GI circuits before putting down the foil. Hope these help. You can see the orange and red feed one side of the GI circuit and the green and white wires feed the other. Crossing them will blow fuses for sure.

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#189 2 years ago

Here's mine with 100% leds. Lot and lots of 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistors soldered to the bulb sockets.

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#190 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Here's some pics I took of the GI circuits before putting down the foil. Hope these help. You can see the orange and red feed one side of the GI circuit and the green and white wires feed the other. Crossing them will blow fuses for sure.

That's great!
Thanks

1 month later
#191 1 year ago

Looking for a space invaders wire form that goes behind the center target where the special loop is. Anyone have one to sell or know where I can buy one?
Thanks

1 week later
#192 1 year ago

I just replaced the rectifier/power supply board in my Space invaders with a Rottendog bps018. Voltages check out at the transformer, but i'm getting 7.8vdc at test point one (and the corresponding pins) instead of the 5.4vdc i should be getting. Anyone have any tips?

thanks,
aaron.

#193 1 year ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Looking for a space invaders wire form that goes behind the center target where the special loop is. Anyone have one to sell or know where I can buy one?
Thanks

Get a piece of Stainless Steel Welding Rod (about $1) and just bend one yourself.

Most real hardware stores have tons of it.

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#194 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

I just replaced the rectifier/power supply board in my Space invaders with a Rottendog bps018. Voltages check out at the transformer, but i'm getting 7.8vdc at test point one (and the corresponding pins) instead of the 5.4vdc i should be getting. Anyone have any tips?
thanks,
aaron.

This can vary especially if you don't have any load on it.

#195 1 year ago

so 7.8vdc could be okay? I am not getting 5vdc at the solenoid driver board. I repinned the cables, so I am thinking I may need to check my work there. Any tips of where to look or what to do?

thanks,
aaron

#196 1 year ago

What voltage do you have at the lamp board?

#197 1 year ago

good question. I'll check.

#198 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

What voltage do you have at the lamp board?

I tested test point one and three on the lamp driver board. Test point 2 is the ground. I got readout .10 on the 20v dc section of my DMM. I know that sounds amateurish, because it is.

#199 1 year ago
Quoted from canoncitypb:

Voltages check out at the transformer, but i'm getting 7.8vdc at test point one (and the corresponding pins) instead of the 5.4vdc i should be getting. Anyone have any tips?
thanks,
aaron.

Just to be certain: test point #1 on which board, solenoid driver or rectifier board?

What are you getting at TP5 on the SDB (should be approximately 12VDC)?

What are you getting at TP1 on the SDB (should be approximately 5VDC)?

#200 1 year ago

on the rectifier board. on the solenoid board i am getting something less. I think it was 2.1 vdc.

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