Wow, that playfield is amazing, nice bright colors and I don't see any ball swirls.
(Topic ID: 25089)
Linked Games
Space Invaders
Bally, 1980
Topic Gallery
Fort Wayne, IN
Total score!Anyone need new displays? Mine are perfect. However I want to change the color with new reproductions. Although, cant buy the new ones unless I can sell the perfect ones I already have.
Quoted from Spock:Anyone need new displays? Mine are perfect. However I want to change the color with new reproductions. Although, cant buy the new ones unless I can sell the perfect ones I already have.
Pm sent
Quoted from Spock:Anyone need new displays? Mine are perfect. However I want to change the color with new reproductions. Although, cant buy the new ones unless I can sell the perfect ones I already have.
I've thought about that too since 2 of my displays aren't perfect and the good ones can go in my Eight Ball project that has 3 displays missing. I'm thinking green displays would look good.
-Steve
1 week later
I have (5) PinScore PS-2518 Set A-GREEN Displays. I changed my mind after I purchased them and Marco Specialties wont accept returns on displays.
(4) Packages are sealed (1) Package is open. All Displays are Brand New!
$275 (shipped)
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/37369
*SOLD*
Toronto, ON
Quoted from itshowtime:on your topper you should light up the eyes with red LEDS ....that's what i did with mine
Great idea thx! Did you drill them in or just mount some super brights behind the eyes?
My space invaders was working, then stopped working. I had trouble with a transistor on the solenoid board. I also have a rectifier board that had some hacks. when I wiggled some of the wires on the rectifier board the game would come back, then it wouldn't.
I recently redid all of the molex connectors and replaced the rectifier board with a rottendog board. The game turns on, but makes the wrong sounds at start up. It also makes the wrong sounds when a credit is added and the game starts. The LED light on the main board will have 6 solid blinks at start up. The seventh blink is very dim and will stay on.
This seems like a chip issue i had on my firepower, but i'm not sure where to go next. Does anyone have any advice?
thanks,
aaron
Quoted from canoncitypb:My space invaders was working, then stopped working. I had trouble with a transistor on the solenoid board. I also have a rectifier board that had some hacks. when I wiggled some of the wires on the rectifier board the game would come back, then it wouldn't.
I recently redid all of the molex connectors and replaced the rectifier board with a rottendog board. The game turns on, but makes the wrong sounds at start up. It also makes the wrong sounds when a credit is added and the game starts. The LED light on the main board will have 6 solid blinks at start up. The seventh blink is very dim and will stay on.
This seems like a chip issue i had on my firepower, but i'm not sure where to go next. Does anyone have any advice?
thanks,
aaron
Did you replace the MPU->Sound Module cable or repin it? Possible that the sound module might be getting a wrong or missing bit instruction. Carefully check that all the ICs on the sound module are firmly seated, no pins out of socket and such.
I'll check that, but it is not just a sound issue. The game is also not playing and the light are not correct as well. Sounds like mixed signals, which is why I thought a chip may be out.
2 weeks later
To anyone who's replaced their plastics: I am missing the right slingshot plastic from my SI. Anyone still have their old one and willing to sell it cheap?
Quoted from DrainsAddiction:To anyone who's replaced their plastics: I am missing the right slingshot plastic from my SI. Anyone still have their old one and willing to sell it cheap?
I might have one lying around. Let me check when I get home.
1 week later
I am cleaning up my transformer/rectifier assembly this weekend. Below is a photo of the 12 (does that mean 12v?) lug on my transformer, which has a tie soldered to it but unconnected at the other end. Doesn't look like it was ever soldered to anything else, would someone mind checking their S.I. and seeing if it's the same?
Also I'm replacing all fuses on the rectifier board, want to make sure these are correct. All are 32V except where noted, but I think all the fuses I have are 250v anyway so that shouldn't matter:
F1 20a
F2 3/4a 250v slo-blo
F3 4a
F4 5a
F5 20a
F6 board says 3a but manual says to use a 5a 250v slo-blo for Space Invaders
Is that all correct? And here's the lug photo:
Sana'a
The lugs are numbered 1-16. Shouldn't be anything on #12.
I see what you're saying about the manual. I have never noticed that before. Meanwhile, I have run my SI through several hundred games at TPF and the HAAG show without a single glitch on a 3ASB.
I've obtained a space invaders head which contains all the boards and displays but i'm curious how can I get the chace lights and maybe the sounds to work without the body of the machine connected ?
Quoted from Pinballgeek:I've obtained a space invaders head which contains all the boards and displays but i'm curious how can I get the chace lights and maybe the sounds to work without the body of the machine connected ?
That has been a longstanding dream of many SI or Xenon head owners to get the chase lights to work without the boards or transformer.
You need a fully booting CPU (5, 12 and 43vdc) and power to the lamps 6.2v .
Quoted from vid1900:That has been a longstanding dream of many SI or Xenon head owners to get the chase lights to work without the boards or transformer.
You need a fully booting CPU (5, 12 and 43vdc) and power to the lamps 6.2v .
I have thought about just using that led tape ( rgb 
) which has a strobe type feature but that would mean drilling some holes in the backbox but no one would notice and I can fill the holes up and paint over it in the future when need be.
Quoted from Pinballgeek:I have thought about just using that led tape ( rgb ) which has a strobe type feature but that would mean drilling some holes in the backbox but no one would notice and I can fill the holes up and paint over it in the future when need be.
Too much work, and you carve up a collectable that has not been made in 35 years.
Find a transformer, rectifier board and a small speaker.
Quoted from vid1900:Too much work, and you carve up a collectable that has not been made in 35 years.
Find a transformer, rectifier board and a small speaker.
You got a point yet hanging it on the wall is carving up a collectable , with brackets drilled on the wall and in the head (top and bottom) unless there is another way which I haven't thought of
Quoted from Pinballgeek:You got a point yet hanging it on the wall is carving up a collectable , with brackets drilled on the wall and in the head (top and bottom) unless there is another way which I haven't thought of
Mount two "L" brackets to the wall.
Bolt head to the L brackets using existing head holes in bottom of head.
Quoted from Pinballgeek:I've obtained a space invaders head which contains all the boards and displays but i'm curious how can I get the chace lights and maybe the sounds to work without the body of the machine connected ?
Heh, deja vu.....I posted the very same thing here for my first post ever.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-invaders-backbox-need-some-help
Quoted from embryon:Can see how lights will work in attract mode but there are no sounds unless playing a game
Some Bally games have a sound that plays once in a while in attract mode, but I'm not sure if SI is one of them.
"ACTIVATE EMBRYON" comes to mind
I'm in. I just purchased one for $50! It is truly a "barn find" (actually, it was in a machine shed on a farm) complete with mouse nests on the playfield. It had some "cow medicine" (per the seller) placed on the playfield glass that subsequently leaked into the cabinet (lock down mechanism, coin door and coin box). The electronics are all good except for some minor battery acid damage that I will fix (I also have a spare Alltek board and a Fixit, just in case). The playfield has some wear and the cabinet has some "patina", but the backglass is perfect. It should be a fun project.
2 weeks later
This is my first game, so I'm still learning. Thanks to the help of people on this site and others, I've been able to rebuild a flipper, put the proper resistors in the displays, fix some of the easy lighting problems, and install LEDS.
I was missing a slingshot plastic, and one of the contributors to this forum was kind enough to send me a leftover one from when he installed new plastics on a "pay it forward" basis. Here are some before and after photos, including the slingshot and LEDs.
Still have plenty more to do. All lights aren't working, and I still have an intermittent problem with one of the displays, which I think is a faulty BCD->digital converter chip.
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Quoted from DrainsAddiction:I still have an intermittent problem with one of the displays, which I think is a faulty BCD->digital converter chip.
If the displays have at least some sign of a glow or flicker (they are not outgassed), they can be repaired very easily. If you have an issue with the displays, always replace the decoder chip first (be sure to install a socket). It is also very easy to test all of the SCRs with a digital multimeter set to continuity (check YouTube). Replace any and all that don't read correctly and the display will work well (assuming it doesn't have burn spots from years of too high voltage). Always adjust the display voltage on the solenoid driver board to 175 vdc. That will allow your displays to live a longer, more productive life (lotsa pinball). Have fun!
1 week later
San Juan
Hello to all.
Would like to share with you, my new acquisition.
It's in really good shape, some eventually wear as you can see on those pics.
I will restore it soon, but I can't decide if I go for a complete mylar removal (yes has mylar on all the pf) or maybe just clean /polish de mylar and wax .
What you would do?
Cheers!
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I just put a rottendog rectifier board in my Space invaders. I am getting the wrong voltage at Test Point 1. It should be 5.4 vdc but it is 44vdc same as test point 5. I must have installed it wrong, but I can't figure out what I did. The old one was a mess of course, but it did play at one time. Any help would be appreciated.
thanks,
aaron
I havent seen one with mylar on it before other than little semi circle pieces that shipped with it if the user wanted to put them in front of the slings. I dont think a custom mylar playfield piece was available for that machine until many years after it was made and the cuts on that mylar doesnt look perfectly even--so it was probably custom made by the owner. So since it was probably put on over an already damaged playfield, the risk of pulling lots of paint is probably too great to justify.
So if it were mine, I would clean it up the best I could, polish the mylar as best you can, re-paint where the mylar was missing, and call it good. For me, it would either be that, or start over with the board and put a full overlay on it (which you can still see pop up for sale from time to time). Also CPR is collecting orders for a reproduction playfield--not sure how many more they have to have before they will build them but you might email them. Here is the page for the pre-order: http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html
Good luck!
Fourbyracer
Quoted from arqpuebla:Hello to all.
Would like to share with you, my new acquisition.
It's in really good shape, some eventually wear as you can see on those pics.
I will restore it soon, but I can't decide if I go for a complete mylar removal (yes has mylar on all the pf) or maybe just clean /polish de mylar and wax .
What you would do?
Cheers!
Quoted from canoncitypb:I just put a rottendog rectifier board in my Space invaders. I am getting the wrong voltage at Test Point 1. It should be 5.4 vdc but it is 44vdc same as test point 5. I must have installed it wrong, but I can't figure out what I did. The old one was a mess of course, but it did play at one time. Any help would be appreciated.
thanks,
aaron
Yikes!! OK, You need to check and double check your connections from the transformer to the board and your plug wires.
Everything is wired properly. I don't have a white yellow on J3. I think that when i re-pinned J1 I switched the 9 pin female molex for a 10 pin by accident. The white green on the end were each one position too far so the white was where the green should be and the green was off of the board, or everything was off one on the other side. I'm not sure if this mistake could have blown components on the board or not. I put in a new rotten dog solenoid driver board. I'm supposed to have 5vdc at test point 1. I do. I'm also supposed to test the AC at test point one and I get 10. I'm not sure what this means.
I noticed that the first chart has the lugs from the transformer. is there a chart of voltages from the transformer and a map of the lugs?
Quoted from canoncitypb:I'm not sure if this mistake could have blown components on the board or not.
If it was on long enough for you to take measurements and nothing went "poof" you are probably good.
Quoted from canoncitypb:I'm also supposed to test the AC at test point one and I get 10.
On which board? The only AC in the machine is for the GI lights which come off the rectifier at TP 4 or 5.
Quoted from canoncitypb:I noticed that the first chart has the lugs from the transformer. is there a chart of voltages from the transformer and a map of the lugs?
If you have the manual with schematics it is all laid out on the "Power Transformer Module" schematic. And pictures are worth a thousand words...
Thanks guys. I found the pages on the schematic and was going to check the voltages there. The pictures are great! I really appreciate those. I'll give it another go tomorrow.
thanks,
Quoted from canoncitypb:I just put a rottendog rectifier board in my Space invaders. I am getting the wrong voltage at Test Point 1. It should be 5.4 vdc but it is 44vdc same as test point 5. I must have installed it wrong, but I can't figure out what I did. The old one was a mess of course, but it did play at one time. Any help would be appreciated.
thanks,
aaron
As suggested earlier, recheck your wiring to make sure it is correct. If so, plug in connector J2 and leave the others unplugged. Turn on the power and check the voltages at each of the header pins on J1 and J3 (per the wiring key posted earlier in this thread). If you are getting 44vdc at TP5, you should also incorrectly have that reading at J3-6 and J1-7 (they should correctly be about 6 vdc), which means you have a short somewhere on your board. With the power turned off, check for continuity between pins J1-7 and J1-6. There should be none. If there is continuity (a short), check to see if a piece of solder has lodged itself under the plastic of the header pin and shorted the two pins or maybe Rottendog did a poor job of soldering and QC. If that is OK (no continuity), go upstream from there in the schematic and look for shorts between the 44 volt circuit and the 6.5 volt circuit (check the schematic). Good luck!
Quoted from FiatsRUs:If you are getting 44vdc at TP5, you should also incorrectly have that reading at J3-6 and J1-7 (they should correctly be about 6 vdc), which means you have a short somewhere on your board.
Oops. I meant "If you are getting 44vdc at TP1, ...."
Again, good luck.
How to Flatten Playfield Plastic! (done on really warped Bally Space Invaders plastic)
I have been looking for a good way to flatten playfield plastic and I believe I have done it. In the past, I have used a heat gun to heat them and then hold them in position (by hand) until they cooled. It worked kinda-sorta. I read one guy's method was to sandwich them between plates of glass and then place them in the oven at 150 degrees (that seemed to work well but requires glass cut-to-size for the oven). Others suggested putting them between two old playfield glasses and placing them in the hot sun on a 100 degree day (only works for a handful of days during the year). I took a combination approach.
I first straightened them kinda-sorta with a heat gun (they were very warped). Next, I put them between two pieces of old playfield glass that were thoroughly cleaned and suspended off of the ground (see the pictures). A 1500 watt ceramic heater was placed underneath about 1 inch from the surface of the glass and turned on HIGH. I left it in place long enough for an area to become hot-to-the-touch and then moved it slightly to an adjacent area under the plastic. I really didn't keep track of the time in one spot, but it didn't appear that it would ever get too hot to ruin the plastic (if anyone tests that theory, please let me know the results). Once the entire plastic had been heated, I moved it to the "cool" end of the glass to be pressed flat while it cooled (you can see the large piece in the picture at the end cooling down). In the future, I will place some weight at each end of the glass to keep the "sandwich" tight. The results were better than I could have imagined.
Good idea, I'll have to try that. Maybe it's because of the large size of the two rear ones but Space Invaders plastics are a real bear to flatten, although I've had success with others using the hot air gun before.
Quoted from jibmums:Good idea, I'll have to try that. Maybe it's because of the large size of the two rear ones but Space Invaders plastics are a real bear to flatten, although I've had success with others using the hot air gun before.
The piece in the last two pictures is the large one from the upper-left side. It ended up very straight. I was thrilled!
Quoted from FiatsRUs:How to Flatten Playfield Plastic! (done on really warped Bally Space Invaders plastic)
That's pretty awesome! We do the same thing here in South Texas only we use the sun for a heat source. 
Shawn
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The overlay is on and DAMN it looks good! The experience was pretty easy, but I suppose preparation helps. I sprayed more water than I expected to but it probably still wasn't enough. I lined it up before we peeled it and I made line-up marks where the rails will go. That way I didn't have to try and do it wet. Biggest lesson learned was to do the cut outs myself. The printer offered to and I let them thinking that they would have the computer do it. Next time I will do it myself. A few days to let the adhesive set and I will throw on some waxing and buffing. After that its rebuild city!
Quoted from Fourbyracer:I havent seen one with mylar on it before other than little semi circle pieces that shipped with it if the user wanted to put them in front of the slings. I dont think a custom mylar playfield piece was available for that machine until many years after it was made
I have full sheet mylar on mine. The smooth countours follow around all the components of the game perfectly. The only areas that show the effects of aging are outside the mylar, under the plastics. Definitely looks original.
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