(Topic ID: 219690)

Bally Space invader tilting

By mongi

2 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by cody_chunn
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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    #1 2 years ago

    Hello everyone, I have a problem with my Bally space invader pinball machine. When I start the game it automatically just tilts and wount kick the ball out. The till on the playing field is the one with the problem. On the switch test number 7 constantly flashes which indicates tilt switch . the one on the door works, both cabinets are working. Disconnected the switch on the playing field made no difference ,looks like the mpu itself is causing the problem. If I unplug the J2 connector (looks like the color code) off the mpu still tilt out. Any suggestions?

    #2 2 years ago

    I presume the MPU board has suffered battery corrosion in the past?

    Does the problem occur when both J2 (playfield switch harness) and J3 (cabinet switch harness) are disconnected from the MPU board? (you can disconnect them live).

    If yes:
    Switch the machine off
    Leave both J2 and J3 connectors disconnected from the MPU board
    Grab your multi-meter and connect the black meter lead to ground.
    Set the multi-meter to measure resistance, if your meter is not auto-ranging, set it to 200k ohms

    With the red meter lead, measure the resistance on pins 1 to 5 on MPU J2 pin header. They should all read around 56k ohms.

    With the red meter lead, measure the resistance on pins 8 to 15 on MPU J2 pin header They should all read around 56k ohms.

    Report back any substantially lower readings and post clear pictures of the MPU board.

    #3 2 years ago

    If the cabinet harness was still connected to the mpu when you tested, you can clip a leg off the capacitor on the tilt switch/plumb bob and see if that stops it.

    #4 2 years ago

    Tilt can come from 3 possible switches in parallel with each other. In the cabinet there is the Plum bob and roll cage. There is an aditional tilt switch on the playfield. The switch on the door is slam not titlt.
    Put the game in switch test take turns unplugging J2 and J3 from the mpu and see if either one clears the stuck switch. That will narrow down where the problem is.

    #5 2 years ago

    If you don't have something leaning against the plumb-bob, it's high probability the tilt switch capacitor is bad.

    #6 2 years ago

    In test mode , door slam is working and plum Bob is working. If I unplug J2 it still showing tilt # 7 switch. That's why I'm why. I'm thinking it's the mpu. Going to ohm it tonight. I'll keep you all posted on my results thanks for your help if it is the mpu what circuit is on the playing field tilt. Looks like the top wire is white with a red stripe like the one on the playing field schematics I have don't show the Tilt switches. Does anybody have a wiring schematic flow chart with the tilt on them?

    #7 2 years ago

    When I originally check the machine out the board has been repaired by someone else ,the gentleman had it for 3 days and then it tilted out and hasn't played it . when I got there the driver selenoid board was short ,l repaired the driver solenoid board now all the pop bumpers and everything works in test mode but still have the tilting problem

    #8 2 years ago

    If you disconnect J2 (playfield harness) from the MPU board and it still reports #07 (tilt) in switch test mode, how do you know the cabinet tilts are working? Did you also disconnect J3 (cabinet harness) to confirm the problem is on the MPU board?

    #9 2 years ago

    While you’re under the hood, humor me and clip one leg of the capacitor on the plumb bob tilt. If it’s original that is likely the issue.

    If it resolves the issue you don’t have to replace it but you can if you want.

    #10 2 years ago

    This is really simple. Put the game in stuck switch test and unplug J2 and J3 from the MPU. If it still sows 07 stuck it's an MPU problem if not plug on J2 (playfield) and then J3 (cabinet). That will tell you if the short is on the playfield or in the cabinet.

    #11 2 years ago

    Yep, it's the mpu

    #12 2 years ago

    See post #2 above.

    #13 2 years ago

    All fixed, when I pulled the mpu board off and check the back of the J2 connector I noticed somebody replace the pins and they accidentally solder two together.cleaned up the sodder and know more problem. I want to thank everyone for their help and support.

    #14 2 years ago

    There nothing worse than a poorly botched pinball machine.....


    #15 2 years ago

    So I'm having this exact same issue on my Future Spa, but I unplugged J3 and it DID clear the stuck switch. What's the next course of action?

    Checked the diodes, all have .4-.6 in only one direction, no switch contacts touching.

    #16 2 years ago
    Quoted from Thorzhammer88:

    So I'm having this exact same issue on my Future Spa, but I unplugged J3 and it DID clear the stuck switch. What's the next course of action?

    See post #3 and #5 above.
    If disconnecting J3 from the MPU board cleared the tilt switch closure, then the next step is to cut one leg of the capacitor at the plumb bob tilt to disconnect the capacitor from circuit. The capacitor may have a partial internal short.

    #17 2 years ago

    Next weird problem with a Mata Hari, picked up a Mata Hari not working mpu board did absolutely nothing sent it out. Get the board back now it's flashes seven times and machine goes on ,no chimes and all the Plainfield solenoid start ratcheting when the game resets. Put it in selenoid test mode everything works but don't match the numbers according to the schematic sheet in the back box and does not operate the top out hole or ball kicker. Swapped out the driver board, does the same thing, test all the transistors and can get everything to work by grounding them, Chimes ,solenoids ,Etc. Is it possible the eproms are damaged? According to the number on them they are the right ones for the board. If I hit everything with my hand the game scores properly drop targets reset but ratchet pop bumpers are firing two at a time and also it does count down the bones right. went through all the wires on the playing field everything is in perfect shape no shorts no wires missing or crossed. What next?

    #18 2 years ago

    With the game off, reseat MPU J4 and the two connectors on the right side of the solenoid board.
    Still bad?
    Very carefully swap U10 and U11 on MPU, using caution not to bend any chip legs underneath the chip.
    Any change in behavior?

    Of course, all of those connectors need to be rebuilt if they haven't been done recently.

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