(Topic ID: 240218)

Bally Solenoid Driver / Voltage Regulator Board Woes


By Brewchap

73 days ago



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  • 18 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 68 days ago by Joydivision
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20190408_190924 (resized).jpg

#1 73 days ago

I have a very odd problem with my Solenoid Driver / Voltage Regulator Board. I have replaced this with another board so I know that it is isolated to just this one board. The problem that I have is ..it seems to act up after it warms up. On one pin it locks the MPU up and on the other it locks the sound card and MPU up. It also make a humming sound through the speakers that gets louder as the board gets hotter or is on for a long period of time. The voltages seem to be correct at the test points before and after the lock up. Other than shotgunning this, what component would fail that would cause this problem? BTW this board was rebuilt about 6 months ago using the recommend parts list on PinWiki along with Solenoid Driver Upgrades.

#2 73 days ago

Measure both the DC and AC voltages at test point TP5 on the solenoid driver board.
The DC voltage should be around 14.5 volts.
The AC voltage should be around 150 millivolts to 200 millivolts.

When the board warms up, what voltages do you now measure at test point TP5?

#3 73 days ago

Are the (new?) capacitors connected the right way?

#4 72 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Measure both the DC and AC voltages at test point TP5 on the solenoid driver board.
The DC voltage should be around 14.5 volts.
The AC voltage should be around 150 millivolts to 200 millivolts.
When the board warms up, what voltages do you now measure at test point TP5?

Ok I did this test 2 times to make sure the reading were the same.

222ac 13.8dc to 223ac 14.1dc
226ac 13.8dc to 221ac 14.2dc

I did notice that the AC voltage bounced around a bit. Like from 217 to 226 ac

#5 72 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Are the (new?) capacitors connected the right way?

Yes, I made that mistake once before.........once. That capacitor blew up and puked this cotton looking stuff everywhere.

#6 72 days ago

If you wiggle the J3 connector at the solenoid driver board (SDB) does the game lock up? How about if you wiggle the J4 connector at the MPU board?

What AC and DC voltages do you measure on the MPU board at test points TP5 and TP2 when cold and warm?

Have you got any Air Duster / compressed air in an aerosol can? They usually expel cold air which is useful for diagnosing thermal issues. When the game is warm, spray some on the 5V regulator (big transistor looking thing in the middle of the big heatsink) on the SDB and see if it reduces the speaker hum - this will tell you you've reduced the power supply noise (that's causing your issue).

#7 72 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Have you got any Air Duster / compressed air in an aerosol can? They usually expel cold air which is useful for diagnosing thermal issues. When the game is warm, spray some on the 5V regulator (big transistor looking thing in the middle of the big heatsink) on the SDB and see if it reduces the speaker hum - this will tell you you've reduced the power supply noise (that's causing your issue).

Doing this made the humming sound go away

Quoted from Quench:

If you wiggle the J3 connector at the solenoid driver board (SDB) does the game lock up? How about if you wiggle the J4 connector at the MPU board?

Nothing changes

Quoted from Quench:

What AC and DC voltages do you measure on the MPU board at test points TP5 and TP2 when cold and warm?

I'll have to do this later. Battery died in my DMM

#8 72 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Doing this made the humming sound go away

Welp, sounds like the 5 volt regulator might be faulty on the SDB.. The cold and warm AC and DC voltages on the MPU board might confirm it.

By the way, can you post a clear picture of the 5 volt regulator? There are fake spec parts going around..

#9 71 days ago
20190408_190924 (resized).jpg
#10 71 days ago

Looks Fake...

A couple of internal pictures of fake 5V regulators vs real regulators - notice the internal silicon die is larger on the real regulators and has more whisker connections to carry more current.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lets-get-technical-ballystern-led-display-power-consumption#post-2983421

This one looks like yours:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/6821-pias-from-china#post-4279650

This one although purchased from China looks more realistic:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lets-get-technical-ballystern-led-display-power-consumption/page/3#post-3278633

A real LM323 5V regulator is rated to 3 amps. The fake ones are probably rated closer to 1 amp so they quickly fail in these systems from over-current.

You may notice in the pictures linked above the fake regulators have large blue dielectric around the two pins. That's the giveaway. Another picture showing the dielectric difference:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-resets-with-rottendog-solenoid-driver-board#post-4709895

BTW, where did you buy that LM323 regulator?

#11 71 days ago

I believe that I got it from Marco

Thanks for the above info. That was good reading and I believe that your correct. I got a fake.

#12 71 days ago

Fake part.
National Semiconductor logo with a 1708 date code -- 8th week of 2017.
First -- the part marking should not be coming off like that on a 2 year old part.
Second -- National Semiconductor was bought out by Texas Instruments in 2011... six years before this part was supposedly made by National Semi.

I think a lot of the fakes out there are old LM309K's which were the same thing but 1 amp. These were cheaper and more plentiful for quite awhile.

#13 71 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

I believe that I got it from Marco

That's good to know.

The last ones I got from Jameco seemed to be the real McCoy. I put one in my meteor game and one in my power supply and they are still working fine.

#14 68 days ago

I wanted to mark this thread as resolved. Replacement of the LM323 solved the problem and I'm sure that I got the real part as compared to the threads that Quench posted.

#15 68 days ago

Thanks for the update.

Those LM323's are getting hard to find. Where did you get yours?

#16 68 days ago

The ones I bought from Jameco a while back where definitely genuine. They then sold out soon after I bought mine, yet they now are showing more in stock now which makes me wonder. Maybe they buy obsolete old stock from other sources?

#17 68 days ago

When did you buy from Jameco?

I bought mine back in Dec. and they seem genuine.

#18 68 days ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

When did you buy from Jameco?

I bought mine back in Dec. and they seem genuine.

About a year or so ago.

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