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(Topic ID: 229407)

Bally solenoid driver board blowing F3 fuse


By Brewchap

1 year ago



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  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Joydivision
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20181116_173236 (resized).jpg

#1 1 year ago

So the SD board works as long as the MPU is booting up. Once the displays come on and the MPU has booted the fuse F3 blows. This is when A3J3 connected only.
I also have done the PinWiki ground mods, but for now I have removed the TP1 and TP3 tie in.
I'm told that something is pulling too much current if the fuse does not immediately blow. I have been trying to find what is causing the problem but no luck so far. Any suggestions?

This is the value of the test points after the F3 fuse blows.
TP 1 5V
TP 3 5V
TP 2 195V
TP 4 250V
TP 5 0.67V

I have replaced these parts:
Resistors

R51 22k ohm 1/2Watt
R52 390 ohm 1/2 Watt
R54 8.2k ohm 1/2 Watt
R55 1.2k ohm 1/2 Watt
R56 82k ohm 1/2 Watt
R35 100k ohm 1 Watt

Diodes

CR21 1N4004 400PIV 1 amp or better (1N4007, etc.)
VR1 Zener diode 1N5275A 140 volts, 1/2 Watt. Can Sub 1N5275B or NTE 5099A

Transistors

Q21 2N3584 250volts, 2 amp, TO-66 NPN
Q22&23 2N3440 250 volts 1 amp TO-39 NPN
Q20 LM323K (original 78H05KC or LAS1405)

Capacitors

C27&28 .01 uf 400 vdc metal polyester capacitor

#2 1 year ago

You should isolate all the peripheral boards to try determining which one is causing the problem.
So disconnect:
J4 from the lamp driver board
J1 from the aux lamp driver board
J1 from the sound board
All the displays.

Power on the machine, wait for the 7 LED flashes on the MPU board, if the fuse blows after the 7th flash disconnect J3 from the solenoid driver board and pull out the brown-white wire at location 13 on the connector. This is a loopback wire that provides 5V to the U2 logic chip on the solenoid driver board.

With the machine off, plug one of the peripheral boards in (sequence doesn't matter) and power on. If fuse doesn't blow, then power off and plug in another board. Repeat until you find which board connected starts blowing the F3 fuse.

#3 1 year ago

Thank you Quench for your suggestion and help. I did as you described above, with all of the connectors disconnected along with the loopback wire the fuse still blew. I was able to install another SD board and it worked with no problem.

#4 1 year ago

Cool, are you going to try and repair that solenoid driver board? You've already rebuilt the high voltage section for the displays. There's not much left in the 12V -> 5V section to change, first suspect is probably capacitor C23.
Although you mention in your original post TP1 had 5 volts when TP5 had nothing which doesn't make much sense because the 5 volts is generated from 12 volts coming in along TP5.
Anyway, if you want to follow up, post some clear pictures of the board.

#5 1 year ago

Just a thought, as the LM323K 5v reg has been replaced - I'm wondering if the replacement possibly may have been a counterfeit part that has partially shorted due to being underspec?

Their are so many LM323K fakes for sale out there now & very few places that sell new genuine NOS parts it's easy to get caught out buying them.

#6 1 year ago

See the review for failing new parts.

https://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/psu5.html#.W-7fpTFOmUk

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Cool, are you going to try and repair that solenoid driver board? You've already rebuilt the high voltage section for the displays. There's not much left in the 12V -> 5V section to change, first suspect is probably capacitor C23.
Although you mention in your original post TP1 had 5 volts when TP5 had nothing which doesn't make much sense because the 5 volts is generated from 12 volts coming in along TP5.
Anyway, if you want to follow up, post some clear pictures of the board.

Something odd happened last night. The SD board quit blowing fuses. Even with all connectors hooked up! But I did notice that something's wrong with C23.

20181116_173236 (resized).jpg
#8 1 year ago

I got a new cap ordered so I'll wait till next week when it comes to see if it will fix the problem once and for all.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

But I did notice that something's wrong with C23.

The fact that it's top blew open or that it's wired backwards?

Is that what was blowing fuse f3?

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

or that it's wired backwards?

Yes... I missed that in every way possible.

#11 1 year ago

Well, live and learn. You'll never mix up polarity on another electrolytic cap after an experience like that! Hopefully the new one will finally get you sorted out. Good luck!

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

There's not much left in the 12V -> 5V section to change, first suspect is probably capacitor C23.

Great suggestion quench

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