(Topic ID: 250344)

Bally solenoid board 2518-22


By Marcus

11 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by Marcus
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#1 11 months ago

I have a non working left slingshot on my Bally Kiss.
I changed the Q10 transistor and the diode. Then I changed U3 chip.
I tried with a board from my Bally Star Trek and the left slingshot works perfect.
I changed back to the broken board and suddenly the left slingshot worked for about 5 minutes then dead again.
I grounded the Q10 and the coil fires. Seems the problem is on the board, a glitch?
What should I try next?

#2 11 months ago

Check the specific pin from the connector to the slingshot - find a point on the board before the pin, and put the other side of the meter to the coil. See if wiggling the connector changes the resistance. If so, plan on repinning that connector.

#3 11 months ago

Could also be bad solder joints on the SDB.

#4 11 months ago
Quoted from Marcus:

I have a non working left slingshot on my Bally Kiss.
I changed the Q10 transistor and the diode. Then I changed U3 chip.
I tried with a board from my Bally Star Trek and the left slingshot works perfect.
I changed back to the broken board and suddenly the left slingshot worked for about 5 minutes then dead again.
I grounded the Q10 and the coil fires. Seems the problem is on the board, a glitch?
What should I try next?

broken connector pin solder joint seems likely. The single sided boards without the plated holes are even more prone to crack solder. Common issue on those boards.

#5 11 months ago

Yes I also think a bad connection. But I measured J5 pin 15, that goes to left sling coil and that measures fine but wont work when slingshot switches are closed. Which connection on solenoid board receives signal from mpu board? Could that be the connection/pin that is bad?
(I am a bit into replacing U2 and maybe U1 just to see if that is the problem, or is that overdoing it and unnessesary?)

#6 11 months ago
Quoted from Marcus:

Yes I also think a bad connection. But I measured J5 pin 15, that goes to left sling coil and that measures fine but wont work when slingshot switches are closed. Which connection on solenoid board receives signal from mpu board? Could that be the connection/pin that is bad?
(I am a bit into replacing U2 and maybe U1 just to see if that is the problem, or is that overdoing it and unnessesary?)

Lower right .100 connector receives the signals from the MPU board. You'd probably see some other solenoid issues if one of those pins were bad unless that one sling happens to be the only one on the topmost signal.

No reason at all to replace U1 it has nothing to do with your sling circuit. Get a logic probe and start measuring pulses in solenoid test to determine where your signal is getting lost. A good test is the input of U3 and the output of U3, specifically pin 8 for the input and pin 7 for the output. You should get a negative pulse when the solenoid test passes the sling.

Was the star trek machine the same exact connector and connection for the sling? If it wasn't.... that test didn't tell you anything, really.

I agree with the other posters it's probably a cracked header pin or a damaged connector in your Kiss harness.

#7 11 months ago

If the solenoid consistently fires when you ground the tab but not when MPU calls for the solenoid to fire its probably bad connector at driver J4 since a different driver board worked.

#8 11 months ago

Thanks guys for all the help. I now measured J4 and followed the traces and everything seems okay when the board is out of the game.
I put it back in the game and left sling works for about three credits. I take of the glass over playfield and backbox. When pressing sling switch nothing. I bend J4 some - nothing, I press U2 some, then I press U3 and the sling coil fires. So I have now found the area where the glitch/bad connection is. If I bend the board against me, the sling doesn’t fire. Tomorrow I will take it out of the game and check around U3.

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