(Topic ID: 145464)
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Skill Roll
Bally, 1956
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Alexandria, VA
1 year later
Quoted from bbble:I have one that needs a good amount of work, looks fine but does not work... yet. PM me if interested.
PM sent to you.
2 months later
3 weeks later
2 weeks later
I've been playing several games of this every day...then last night, 2 hours before I have a friend coming over to play it before they move to CA...it won't play any more (coin drops through to coin return, not to playfield).
Eventually I found the fuse holder was the culprit. The fuses were so loose, they were just rattling around in the holder. I don't know why it worked before and chose now to stop, etc...but that fuse holder was trashed worse than any one I have ever seen.
jeffc to the rescue again...he came over with a new fuse holder and I got it replaced about 15 min before my friend showed up. Thanks man!
2 weeks later
I spent a fair amount of time working on my new Bally Skill Roll game.
jeffc came over and helped me more than once, thanks man!
I thought I'd write down some things I learned to help anyone else who might get one of these. I posted this up on KLOV, thought I'd post it here also.
Feel free to add on...these are just the issues I've had that I think almost anyone else might have.
#1 Problem: Sticky coin levers/actuators
A few of my coin levers were very sticky. So sticky that a coin would get stuck on them and not trip them. Or, if the coin went through, the lever would not come all the way back up and would be a closed switch. In some cases, it is possible to bend the leaf switch leafs to help some, and in some cases it is not.
#1 Solution: Sticky coin levers/actuators
After trial and error, I found a simple way to get these working perfectly: First, remove the 2 screws holding the leaf switch to the lever/actuator assembly. Next, remove the 2 screws holding the lever/actuator assembly to the playfield. Now, pull the whole lever/actuator assembly out. Soak it in naphtha. Gently work the motion, soak 1 min, gently work the motion, soak another minute, etc. After 5-10 minutes it's working perfectly. No need to remove the tiny push-on washer. Be careful and don't try to bend the aluminum lever assembly or force it in any way. I believe it could break/snap. Let the naphtha do its work.
#2 Problem: Fuse holder
The original fuse holder on this thing is a serious POS. My fuses were so loose, they were literally rattling around. It was not possible to bend the holder back to hold them properly. Some times my game would not start because the loose fuse wasn't making contact.
#2 Solution: Fuse holder
Obviously just replace fuse holder. It's a 4 position fuse holder and the screw holes from the original one even line up with the new ones.
#3 Problem: Game starts with score not 0
#3 Solution: Game starts with score not 0
This is because the scoring stepper has not reset all the way back as it should when you start a new game. Disassemble the stepper and clean all of its parts. I used simple green but might use naphtha in the future. jeffc helped me a lot with this because it scared me, but after watching him do most of it, it doesn't seem that hard anymore. I haven't had a single issue since.
#4 Problem: Handles not flipping with enough power
I had 1 handle that couldn't get a coin all the way across the row, and another that barely could. You should be able to easily launch the coin all the way across.
#4 Solution: Handles not flipping with enough power
I thought the springs might be bad, but they are fine.
The problem was gunk build up inside the shaft connected to the handle.
Remove the single nut on the back of the handle (inside the back door). Now you can pull the handle and shaft out the front of the game (you don't need to remove the gulmite screw holding the handle to the shaft to do this).
Now clean the shaft that you have removed (naphtha) and the hole it came out of (naphtha on a q-tip). I used about 10 q-tips per hole, kept doing it until they came out relatively clean.
#5 Problem: Dirty playfield
Man that thing was dirty!
#5 Solution: Dirty playfield
jeffc loaned my his Mill Wax, and it worked like a charm. It cleaned all the dirt off, and leaves a waxed surface. It took patience, but it worked well. I didn't want to use novus 2 because of the abrasives in it, even though I know others have used it successfully. I originally tried novus 1, it did nothing, which isn't too surprising. Don't forget to clean the tops of the metal rails where the nickel actually makes contact.
#6 Problem: Bell/Chime not loud enough
I could tell from playing @jeffc's game that my chime was not loud enough.
#6 Solution: Bell/Chime not loud enough
I found that someone had intentionally muffled the chime by wrapping electrical tape around the ends of the metal that gets struck. I removed the tape and it's much better.
So far, that's all I have. It's up and seems to be working perfectly.
Hope this helps someone!
PS Something else I did was tumbled my nickels with a little bit of Flitz paste (blue). After only 12 hours they were GLEAMING.
2 weeks later
Quoted from tstone:I've missed the 80 with 340 at least 5 times. I'm happy I finally got 400.
Happened again last night! Here's what it looked like at 340 right before I missed the 80...
IMG_9096 (resized).JPGQuoted from gliebig:Let me know when you want to let that go to a new loving home.
You want one of my kidneys, too?
Quoted from DB62:I have 4 of the "SKILL" games in absolutely beautiful condition, both cosmetically and mechanically. They all work 100% and need nothing. They are plug & play and all are original.
SKILL ROLL
SKILL DERBY (Deluxe Version) with ODDS feature
SKILL SCORE
SKILL PARADE
Wisconsin again!
3 months later
I ordered a repro backglass from BGresto.
The glass that was sent to me had several scratches on the glass. 
The art is perfect, and the scratches are hard to see most of the time, but from the right angle, when looking, they are clear.
Since I spent what I consider a lot on this, I got back with the BGresto guy and he sent me another one, which has no scratches.
It took 5 months from payment made to having a good glass (today).
I'm offering the scratched BGresto glass for sale.
I paid $300 for the glass. 5 months ago, if someone offered it to me for $100, I'd have jumped on it, so that's what I'm offering it for. Price is firm.
I'm going to try hard to sell it locally. If I can't sell it locally, I'll offer shipping, which will be $60. I'm saving the fancy box/foam/inserts etc it came in, and will use that if I have to ship.
Here are pics I took where I was really trying to highlight the scratches in the glass (using flashlights/glare/etc to show them). When it was in the game, no one else noticed them.
1 (resized).jpg1a (resized).JPG2a (resized).jpg2b (resized).jpg2c (resized).jpg
Quoted from meSz:I hate to be that guy but I guess you would have to jump on a 100$ as, correct me if I am wrong, you got it at no cost? Per your post BRResto (Steve) sent you another one due to the first one having defects and now you're selling it for a profit? Why not sell it and send Steve the money to offset his cost in sending two glasses? Again, not trying to come off harsh but people like Steve help make these glasses, that are unobtainable elsewhere, and is a one man show so it's not like he's making a fortune on them!
Just a thought
I spent $300 and I'm trying to recoup $100. My glass, which is twice as nice, in the end will cost me twice as much as whoever buys the other one (my cost: 300-100=200 for the one I'm keeping vs someone else's cost: 100 for the one I'm selling). I don't think trying to get $100 back here is unreasonable given the circumstances.
I'm not concerned about refunding Steve. He should have looked the glass over. I had to wait for additional months because of his quality control issue.
Quoted from per3per3:Just installed a repro backglass from BGResto and it looks great. Also got a 410! Skill Roll is awesome
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great!
Awesome score, too.
2 months later
arob asked me if I could take a look at my glasses and compare them.
I've compared mine from BGResto and my original (see pics below...in each one, original on left, BGResto on right).
The blue color is quite a bit different between the original and the restoration.
It looks to me like the CPR glass has a much closer blue to my original than the one from BGResto.
The question is, which blue is correct? I (vaguely) seem to recall people saying the BGResto blue is the correct "original" blue and our originals have faded to the blue/green color...but I can't find where I read that.
Can anyone comment on how different these blues are?
I also notice in these pics the lines are silver in the original and white in the repro. I'm not sure white would fade to silver over time. Can anyone comment on that as well? I see CPR making a big deal about their "silver" in their product post.
Quoted from RustyLizard:[quoted image][quoted image]
That's my patented move!
Quoted from stashyboy:Original inks maybe either unobtainium or too expensive to use. Bgresto does a good job with what they do in our modern world but nobody is going to be able to reproduce the kind of artwork that was done 30 40 or 50 years ago. High color saturation lead-based based inks, true mirrored back glasses Etc.
Well the colors are completely different...blue vs aqua. I'm sure he could make any color he wants.
I'm just trying to understand if there's a reason he chose this blue instead of the aqua that the glasses seem to have. As I mentioned, I vaguely recall someone at some point saying there was some ground truth photo of way back in the day and it actually was blue...and it was thought that it has now faded to this aqua color...
Given that CPR has chosen to go with the aqua color, I'm trying to understand the thought process here...and I'm trying to help out a guy who is trying to decide which one to buy.
Thanks for weighing in, folks. I hadn't even noticed the different number of lines in the repros.
FYI: I've just looked at quite a few pics of original glasses, and to my eye they all look aqua...not blue...and have 7...not 8 lines.
Given this, it appears to me the CPR repro is more accurate.
Of course, it is possible they were all originally blue and have all faded to aqua...this seems unlikely to me given the different conditions they have all been in...and it's possible some originals had 8 lines, but all the ones I see have 7.
Quoted from cjmiller:My point is, no matter who you get the reproduction from it's almost certainly going to be better looking than the original.
Of course that's right, no argument.
But if one is better than another, I'd like to know that when I'm buying to see if any price difference makes sense to me.
It's like if I have a nasty rotten molded apple at home. When I get to the store, I see 2 apples there for the same price...both much better than mine, but one better than the other...obviously I'm going to buy the better one.
BTW, I like your original glass. It doesn't seem to have much flaking. I'd rather have a slightly worn original than a perfect reproduction. I only resort to repros when my originals are horrible. If you're near me and interested in a trade, feel free to PM me.
Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:What are reproduction glasses selling for nowadays? I have a glass that I laserjet printed and can certainly burn off a few more for pinsiders. Especially considering CLE-Pin is only a month and a half away
About 300 shipped (240-ish +60-ish)
1 month later
If anyone in my area (Northern VA) wants my original/flaking backglass, they can have it for free. It has a few silver dollar sized chunks missing from the art, but is better than others I've seen. I'll probably just throw this away after a while, would prefer someone who wants it to have it, though. No shipping on this.
38b4475e696d4a6c1087dc89891a7dc8f9fb5235 (resized).jpg 1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from animesuperj:Finally able to add one to my collection! Only took a few years of searching, lol. Need to clean one of the 50 point switches or figure out why it gets a bit stuck when the arm comes back up. Other than that, plays great!
Check my post #54 in this thread for ideas how to get levers/switches working. I had a few that wouldn't spring back right.
2 months later
Quoted from cait001:Joining the club!
[quoted image]
In need of marquees/glasses for skill Roll and skill parade.
Skill Roll also has a cracked inner plastic sheet. Has anyone ever made a fresh one with a CNC router?
Also need one handle for skill parade...
Interesting marquee, is it homemade? Did you ask the guy you bought it from about it?
I'd recommend the backglass from CPR:
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/skill-roll/
Graphics are more correct (as seen earlier in this thread), and you'll get it in a timely fashion.
Quoted from Don_C:On mine it was thumb tacked to the upper horizontal piece of the wood frame. Didn't look 'factory'...
Don C.
It seems that all the machines I've seen have had 2 thumb tack holes in that area.
4 months later
There's a Skill Roll on ebay right now (ebay.com link: Bally Skill Roll)
It has a really weird all red bezel glass...is this homemade or an original variant?
Quoted from edward472:Of course it's in Wisconsin. I've seen the red backglass on a couple of games. Curious to see how high it goes.
Boy you said it...it's always Wisconsin. That's where I had mine shipped from as well.
I bet it goes for around 2500, maybe more.
Quoted from northvibe:I did, it is the same guy from Klov I think?, and I got it off him directly from klov.
It lined up 99% for screw holes. I had to open up 1 hole more to match the pf. Mine was pretty beat and even with some small modifications, it is nice having a clear sheet.
My own experience with the plastic bezel:
I had to make several modifications to the one from ebay to make it fit mine, including trimming the entire length and width about 1/16", which wasn't easy or fun. I laid the original right over the replacement and they were obviously not the same.
I had to do it because my existing plastic bezel was badly cracked...I personally wouldn't replace it again if my original was in decent shape.
I suppose the originals had some slight variations...so YMMV!
Quoted from BlackCatBone:I now think the serial number is BA1902 or BA1908. Consulting the ipdb serial number database, it looks like the game falls in the later half of production, but there were several hundred Skill-Rolls produced after this game, assuming consecutive serial numbers. Maybe the red glass is an early (and weak) reproduction, considering @tullsters knowledge that his red glass is at least 25 years old.
http://www.ipsnd.net/View.aspx?id=3232
Cool list, I didn't know it existed.
I added mine (2408), seems to be the largest at the moment.
Does anyone know if there is a difference between the "BA" numbers and those without "BA"?
Quoted from bingopodcast:From the bingo and one-ball world: Bally would change serial prefix characters if there was some drastic (electrical) change in production. I'm not sure what might have changed, but that is probably an interesting question if serials don't all start with the same prefix.
Yeah, that's the question I'm asking...mine does not start with BA and I know others do...
Mine has a late serial number...I wonder if there is a difference?
Quoted from tstone:Yeah, that's the question I'm asking...mine does not start with BA and I know others do...
Mine has a late serial number...I wonder if there is a difference?
The BA and non-BA seem interleaved...not like one came and then the other due to some change.
Maybe just a different guy stamping the cabinets?
1 month later
Quoted from BlackCatBone:If you've got this paper tag on the back of your Skill-Roll, just below the rear door, could you post a photo or description of the text? Thanks.
[quoted image]
Back_Card - HUO - Bob Herbison (resized).JPGQuoted from BlackCatBone:. . . and the Star is lit! Nice
The star is lit, but there's no nickel at the bottom...
3 weeks later
Quoted from BlackCatBone:Does anyone who owns a Skill-Roll with original cabinet paint see anything like the wood stain I have on my cabinet? I assumed when I got the game that an operator had done a touch-up job on the wood trim and had slopped some of the stain on the cabinet paint. That was before I removed the 3 metal rails that hold the playfield glass in place. I found what appears to be the same dark stain under the metal rails, so now I wonder if the stain was applied at the Bally factory. Can you shed any light on this? And is your wood trim this mahogany color or a lighter color?
[quoted image]
Mine looks a little like yours, but it is because the grey paint has chipped away, exposing the brown wood underneath.
Look at yours closely, is it the wood showing through because the paint has chipped away, or stain on top of the grey paint?
4 weeks later
2 months later
1 month later
Quoted from edward472:Inside looks good though. Slap some handles on it and you're good to go. Id bid if it wasn't so far away
It's worth it for the right price, but...
The paint is messed up bad, and will take much more skill than I have to look decent.
I don't know what's up with the marquee. Older replacement, maybe? I don't like it.
The handles are hard to come by, expensive, etc.
No pics of the sides...
Good sized project there.
Quoted from BlackCatBone:Are there any options for reproducing the 4 missing coin-flipper handles? Any guesses how much it would cost?
I've seen a couple of options. One expensive and less than perfect option is here ($500 for all 8 and if you want them to match the original 4 you'll need 8...then yould recoup some mo at selling the originals maybe. These need to be plated also i think.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/PVDF4UHNQ/skill-roll-handle?optionId=62748392&li=shops
I think earlier in this thread there may have been a better option mentioned also. Maybe it was only a work in progress...cant recall but I think if you search this thread you'll find something from the last year or so
Ah, that's right. Gutz made the repro handles and shafts. If I recall correctly, his handles don't work with the original shafts, so if you care about that for some reason, the other handles I linked would be better.
Some of my thoughts on the ebay machine for anyone thinking about buying it:
If I bought the ebay machine I'd replace with all 8 of the same type handle so they look the same, probably those from Gutz. Then sell the originals.
The plastic bezel is destroyed. The guy does mention it in his listing.
It is missing a big piece on the lower right, and it looks like someone might have put a screw through it between "start" and "10", cracking it, and possibly damaging the playfield.
The guy who repro-ed these said he is out and probably won't be making more, so this may be unobtanium.
It's possible it's the front glass that is broken on the lower right. In either case, the front glass and the plastic bezel really both need replacement because the marquee/front glass looks like an older repro which doesn't look very nice to me.
The scoring is obviously not working, since there is a nickel on the 3rd row and the score is 10. This is expected, though. Need to clean the steppers. I had the same issue, jeffc helped me with mine.
Some of the scoring lever/switches are badly out of adjustment. Again, this is expected. Need to clean the steppers. I had the same issue, jeffc helped me with mine (the last "10" and the 4th "50", for instance).
The paint is the biggest issue. Have to disassemble the machine, strip, and find a way to repaint it. Getting the original look and texture would require great skill I don't have.
I'd love to see someone return this one to it's former glory, but it looks like a pretty big project.
Just my thoughts!
Quoted from tstone:There's one on ebay.
Needs a lot of help, but hey...it's available!
ebay.com link
The video of the guy trying to play it is both perversely amusing and hard to watch. It's like one of those hairless dogs.
Auction ending tomorrow morning. $800ish right now. I value it around $1000 given how rough it is but opinions will vary greatly.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Original glass
Any suggestions on the best way to strip off the brown paint without damaging the original paint?
The glass doesn't look original to me.
Here are a few reasons I Say that:
1) The blue horizontal stripes should meet yellow in the center. Yours is completely missing this yellow border around the orange.
2) There should be a blue strip behind the 10,20,30 etc numbers. Yours is missing it.
3) You're also missing the blue outline to the left of the 100 and to the right of the 400.
4) The large red "Bally Skill-Roll" letters in the top right should be outlined in black. Yours does not appear to have this outline. Hard to tell though.
4) The blue stripes on your are too dark.
5) Other than finding a NIB Skill Roll, I think finding a perfect glass is pretty much impossible.
Check the repro glass a couple posts above for reference.
Quoted from MrBally:Can't go wrong with BGResto either. But I'm not gonna tell you how to spend your money.....
Suggest you read all opinions in this thread, especially if you are considering bgresto.
I had a pretty negative experience there that lasted several months...and the number of blue stripes in their product isn't correct.
Not going to rehash this with the fanboys, but do your due diligence before investing several months and over $300.
1 month later
Quoted from jeffc:Tim Arnold has this skill roll, the only one known he claims. Seen at 2:05 of this video:
https://fb.watch/3vFerZO2v2/[quoted image]
Wow! It exists!
How do I contact the guy to make him a few u offer?!
Quoted from BlackCatBone:LarryB reported four years ago in this thread that he owned a Lite-A-Diamond "a few years back," and provided a spot-on description of the game. It sure would be interesting to trace the ownership of Larrry's game following its sale. Presumably, Tim has Larry's old game, but could there be a second Lite-A-Diamond . ? .
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-skill-roll#post-3943716
Tim told me he got his from Sambo Amusements in Laurel Mississippi.
He indicated it was 30 years ago when he put the stuff in storage...didnt say for sure he got this one 30 years ago but lead me to believe it.
Probably a different game.
Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:If someone were to sell theirs, What do you guys think real value on one in fair market? Working example, from a collection.
The last good condition one I recall on ebay sold for over $5000, which meant at least 2 people were prepared to pay that.
Prices are going up...there is a HUGE supply and demand issue.
If I was still looking for one, I'd be ready to spend 4k for a good/working/nice machine.
1 week later
Quoted from cait001:yeah I don't think a lot of people would be near $10k for it either. But I can think of at least 2 or 3 that would be, and that's all that is needed. I never would have paid $4k USD for a Skill Roll, but obviously a bunch of people would and did.
It's like trying to guess what a Pinball Circus would sell for. (in the sense that there are 2 known copies, and a wide fanbase of interests)
At least for a machine like Army Navy we know there are way more than 2 out there, and the prices on those are $10k+
I'm sure there's more than 2 or 3. I'd probably be around 10k myself.
If you aren't near 10k you wouldn't be "a serious player"...
3 months later
1 week later
They're on ebay now: ebay.com link: itm
Quoted from DB62:One on ebay sold for a tad over $5,700 about 6 months or so ago, in original working condition.
Yep I remember.
I paid almost 3k shipped for mine, in worse condition than these. And that was a couple years ago after searching for years.
Such a tough machine to find.
If I was still looking I'd buy these, fix both, and sell one. It's a great opportunity.
I once bought 3 Ice Cold Beer games and did that!
3 months later
Restored Skill Roll for sale here:
https://www.coinopclub.org/classified-ads
Only look at price if you don't have a heart condition.
11 months later
Quoted from Chris920:New here. Recently purchased this Skill Roll. Seems like all the em stuff works good. Once I acquire all the parts I need I will begin giving it a facelift. Looking for 7 flippers as only 1 of 8 are good or a complete set of 8 new ones. Front glass decal and a lock and ring for the change door. Any help or tips is appreciated.
[quoted image]
Looks like you have 4 original flippers. Maybe they need adjusting? Why do you think you only have 1?
Original flippers are valuable. You could potentially trade your 4 originals for a set of 8 repros.
Quoted from Chris920:New here. Recently purchased this Skill Roll. Seems like all the em stuff works good. Once I acquire all the parts I need I will begin giving it a facelift. Looking for 7 flippers as only 1 of 8 are good or a complete set of 8 new ones. Front glass decal and a lock and ring for the change door. Any help or tips is appreciated.
[quoted image]
The best replacement glass is this one:
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/skill-roll/
There are others that have wrong colors or even wrong number of blue stripes at the top.
You could also buy a decal much cheaper.
Quoted from Trizel:Here's the easy list I have most of the parts listed on the restore thread
Mopar has the glass decal
Shawn has the plastic that goes between the playfield and glass
And CPR has the screened glass.
Quoted from Chris920:Only one has a good spline that interlock'swith the shaft.
As the others say...I suspect cleaning or tightening may get you set at least with those 4.
Kind of hard to imagine the spline actually wearing to the point of uselessness...but possible!
Yeah those handles look pretty rough.
Mixing and matching new and old handles would probable look jnky anyway.
You probably need 8 new / repro handles.
Good news is you can probably sell your originals, even damaged. They're unobtanium and there are people who would try to use or fix them.
2 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from DudebroWTF:I have not sold my Skill Roll yet. I think I will be posting it on ebay next week.
And to provide some non-sale content in this thread. My Skill Roll was missing the original coin chute cover panel. At some point, someone double sided taped a piece of plywood in there. luckily I was able to remove that with no trace. I designed and had an exact replica made using pre-galv steel (also like the original). If anyone needs one, I could probably have some more made.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome! I think jeffc might be interested.
Quoted from Shawn1976:You rather get rid of that versus the Death Adder right next to it….
Smh…..
Looks a bit more like Tutankhamun to me, which is even more reason to ditch it. That game is too hard!
3 weeks later
Quoted from northvibe:Is there a handle on the coin box?
Here's a pic of mine. No handle.
I'm pretty sure it's original as it has hand written totals collected from it dating back to the 1960s. I love that! See pic! Seems to have had nickels collected once per year in Oct.
2 months later
Quoted from BlackCatBone:Oregon Skill-Roll, appears original and complete (only exterior shots). $3,500 opening bid with a $5,000 BIN.
ebay.com link: itm
Should sell no problem at that price.
Seem to be several interior shots also.
1 week later
Quoted from edward472:Dang. Not a bad deal
That's my point...at the time it seemed pretty high but I did it anyway.
In the future 5K may seem pretty low just like 2500 seems low today....
Same thing with my 6k Addams Family, etc.
7 months later
Quoted from HisboyElroy:The card next to my fuse block is missing but based on pics in this thread it looks like I should have three 5 Amp fuses correct? Second from the top is blank (for low voltage)
Correct. Here's a pic of mine.
20231031_175001 (resized).jpgQuoted from HisboyElroy:I'll probably order a replacement glass from CPR too. I've never shipped a backglass before but I think I'll have to make an exception here. Is that a bad idea? Seems like they would be very likely to break during shipment.
Looking forward to getting started on this
[quoted image]
CPR is your best option here. Take it from me I ordered from a different supplier and was sorely dissatisfied in multiple ways.
Don't worry about it breaking they know how to ship it.
Another option would be to buy a piece of glass and buy a decal that people earlier in this thread were selling
2 months later
Quoted from homegameroom:Hence these were made - not that anyone reads them who plays mine.
A telltale sign that these were on your machine are the two little pushpin holes on the top rail. https://www.ipdb.org/files/3232/Bally_1956_Skill_Roll_Reproduction_Instruction_Cards.pdf
Mine has the two little pushpin holes.
1 month later
Quoted from BeachPickle:I’m looking forward to seeing what these go for, two in the same auction could bring the prices down, though morphy is really high profile and pulls crazy high prices sometimes.
At a glance, I see:
Lot 3501:
Some of the original gulmite screws missing, replaced with slotted screws. Top left may be an allen screw.
Hole cut in back door.
No interior pics, but says it's working, which is awesome.
Lot 3557:
Two of the handles have been replaced with sink faucet handles (ug)
Handle on lower right doesn't look correct either.
Other handles loose, probably they just need tightening with a proper gulmite wrench.
Looks like the original power cord.
No interior pics.
No interior pics, but says it's working, which is awesome.
I suspect these will go for 5k-ish.
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