Quoted from jeffc:
Look what tstone did on my machine this weekend!??!
I did that on purpose!
I did this again the last time I was at Jeff's house! I've decided to patent this move.
I've been playing several games of this every day...then last night, 2 hours before I have a friend coming over to play it before they move to CA...it won't play any more (coin drops through to coin return, not to playfield).
Eventually I found the fuse holder was the culprit. The fuses were so loose, they were just rattling around in the holder. I don't know why it worked before and chose now to stop, etc...but that fuse holder was trashed worse than any one I have ever seen.
jeffc to the rescue again...he came over with a new fuse holder and I got it replaced about 15 min before my friend showed up. Thanks man!
I spent a fair amount of time working on my new Bally Skill Roll game.
jeffc came over and helped me more than once, thanks man!
I thought I'd write down some things I learned to help anyone else who might get one of these. I posted this up on KLOV, thought I'd post it here also.
Feel free to add on...these are just the issues I've had that I think almost anyone else might have.
#1 Problem: Sticky coin levers/actuators
A few of my coin levers were very sticky. So sticky that a coin would get stuck on them and not trip them. Or, if the coin went through, the lever would not come all the way back up and would be a closed switch. In some cases, it is possible to bend the leaf switch leafs to help some, and in some cases it is not.
#1 Solution: Sticky coin levers/actuators
After trial and error, I found a simple way to get these working perfectly: First, remove the 2 screws holding the leaf switch to the lever/actuator assembly. Next, remove the 2 screws holding the lever/actuator assembly to the playfield. Now, pull the whole lever/actuator assembly out. Soak it in naphtha. Gently work the motion, soak 1 min, gently work the motion, soak another minute, etc. After 5-10 minutes it's working perfectly. No need to remove the tiny push-on washer. Be careful and don't try to bend the aluminum lever assembly or force it in any way. I believe it could break/snap. Let the naphtha do its work.
#2 Problem: Fuse holder
The original fuse holder on this thing is a serious POS. My fuses were so loose, they were literally rattling around. It was not possible to bend the holder back to hold them properly. Some times my game would not start because the loose fuse wasn't making contact.
#2 Solution: Fuse holder
Obviously just replace fuse holder. It's a 4 position fuse holder and the screw holes from the original one even line up with the new ones.
#3 Problem: Game starts with score not 0
#3 Solution: Game starts with score not 0
This is because the scoring stepper has not reset all the way back as it should when you start a new game. Disassemble the stepper and clean all of its parts. I used simple green but might use naphtha in the future. jeffc helped me a lot with this because it scared me, but after watching him do most of it, it doesn't seem that hard anymore. I haven't had a single issue since.
#4 Problem: Handles not flipping with enough power
I had 1 handle that couldn't get a coin all the way across the row, and another that barely could. You should be able to easily launch the coin all the way across.
#4 Solution: Handles not flipping with enough power
I thought the springs might be bad, but they are fine.
The problem was gunk build up inside the shaft connected to the handle.
Remove the single nut on the back of the handle (inside the back door). Now you can pull the handle and shaft out the front of the game (you don't need to remove the gulmite screw holding the handle to the shaft to do this).
Now clean the shaft that you have removed (naphtha) and the hole it came out of (naphtha on a q-tip). I used about 10 q-tips per hole, kept doing it until they came out relatively clean.
#5 Problem: Dirty playfield
Man that thing was dirty!
#5 Solution: Dirty playfield
jeffc loaned my his Mill Wax, and it worked like a charm. It cleaned all the dirt off, and leaves a waxed surface. It took patience, but it worked well. I didn't want to use novus 2 because of the abrasives in it, even though I know others have used it successfully. I originally tried novus 1, it did nothing, which isn't too surprising. Don't forget to clean the tops of the metal rails where the nickel actually makes contact.
#6 Problem: Bell/Chime not loud enough
I could tell from playing jeffc's game that my chime was not loud enough.
#6 Solution: Bell/Chime not loud enough
I found that someone had intentionally muffled the chime by wrapping electrical tape around the ends of the metal that gets struck. I removed the tape and it's much better.
So far, that's all I have. It's up and seems to be working perfectly.
Hope this helps someone!
PS Something else I did was tumbled my nickels with a little bit of Flitz paste (blue). After only 12 hours they were GLEAMING.
Colleen caught the coin here somehow!
I couldn't believe it.
I tapped the machine very gently and it rolled away.
Quoted from DB62:
I have 4 of the "SKILL" games in absolutely beautiful condition, both cosmetically and mechanically. They all work 100% and need nothing. They are plug & play and all are original.
SKILL DERBY (Deluxe Version) with ODDS feature
I ordered a repro backglass from BGresto.
The glass that was sent to me had several scratches on the glass.
The art is perfect, and the scratches are hard to see most of the time, but from the right angle, when looking, they are clear.
Since I spent what I consider a lot on this, I got back with the BGresto guy and he sent me another one, which has no scratches.
It took 5 months from payment made to having a good glass (today).
I'm offering the scratched BGresto glass for sale.
I paid $300 for the glass. 5 months ago, if someone offered it to me for $100, I'd have jumped on it, so that's what I'm offering it for. Price is firm.
I'm going to try hard to sell it locally. If I can't sell it locally, I'll offer shipping, which will be $60. I'm saving the fancy box/foam/inserts etc it came in, and will use that if I have to ship.
Here are pics I took where I was really trying to highlight the scratches in the glass (using flashlights/glare/etc to show them). When it was in the game, no one else noticed them.
Here are pics of the full glass I'm selling. I also included a pic of my original glass. The buyer can have that if they want it and are picking up.
Quoted from meSz:
I hate to be that guy but I guess you would have to jump on a 100$ as, correct me if I am wrong, you got it at no cost? Per your post BRResto (Steve) sent you another one due to the first one having defects and now you're selling it for a profit? Why not sell it and send Steve the money to offset his cost in sending two glasses? Again, not trying to come off harsh but people like Steve help make these glasses, that are unobtainable elsewhere, and is a one man show so it's not like he's making a fortune on them!
Just a thought
I spent $300 and I'm trying to recoup $100. My glass, which is twice as nice, in the end will cost me twice as much as whoever buys the other one (my cost: 300-100=200 for the one I'm keeping vs someone else's cost: 100 for the one I'm selling). I don't think trying to get $100 back here is unreasonable given the circumstances.
I'm not concerned about refunding Steve. He should have looked the glass over. I had to wait for additional months because of his quality control issue.
arob asked me if I could take a look at my glasses and compare them.
I've compared mine from BGResto and my original (see pics below...in each one, original on left, BGResto on right).
The blue color is quite a bit different between the original and the restoration.
It looks to me like the CPR glass has a much closer blue to my original than the one from BGResto.
The question is, which blue is correct? I (vaguely) seem to recall people saying the BGResto blue is the correct "original" blue and our originals have faded to the blue/green color...but I can't find where I read that.
Can anyone comment on how different these blues are?
I also notice in these pics the lines are silver in the original and white in the repro. I'm not sure white would fade to silver over time. Can anyone comment on that as well? I see CPR making a big deal about their "silver" in their product post.
I'd still like to hear any thoughts on the color differences in the glasses above. Anyone know anything about that?
Quoted from stashyboy:
Original inks maybe either unobtainium or too expensive to use. Bgresto does a good job with what they do in our modern world but nobody is going to be able to reproduce the kind of artwork that was done 30 40 or 50 years ago. High color saturation lead-based based inks, true mirrored back glasses Etc.
Well the colors are completely different...blue vs aqua. I'm sure he could make any color he wants.
I'm just trying to understand if there's a reason he chose this blue instead of the aqua that the glasses seem to have. As I mentioned, I vaguely recall someone at some point saying there was some ground truth photo of way back in the day and it actually was blue...and it was thought that it has now faded to this aqua color...
Given that CPR has chosen to go with the aqua color, I'm trying to understand the thought process here...and I'm trying to help out a guy who is trying to decide which one to buy.
Thanks for weighing in, folks. I hadn't even noticed the different number of lines in the repros.
FYI: I've just looked at quite a few pics of original glasses, and to my eye they all look aqua...not blue...and have 7...not 8 lines.
Given this, it appears to me the CPR repro is more accurate.
Of course, it is possible they were all originally blue and have all faded to aqua...this seems unlikely to me given the different conditions they have all been in...and it's possible some originals had 8 lines, but all the ones I see have 7.
Quoted from cjmiller:
My point is, no matter who you get the reproduction from it's almost certainly going to be better looking than the original.
Of course that's right, no argument.
But if one is better than another, I'd like to know that when I'm buying to see if any price difference makes sense to me.
It's like if I have a nasty rotten molded apple at home. When I get to the store, I see 2 apples there for the same price...both much better than mine, but one better than the other...obviously I'm going to buy the better one.
BTW, I like your original glass. It doesn't seem to have much flaking. I'd rather have a slightly worn original than a perfect reproduction. I only resort to repros when my originals are horrible. If you're near me and interested in a trade, feel free to PM me.
Quoted from Gundam_Pilot_:
What are reproduction glasses selling for nowadays? I have a glass that I laserjet printed and can certainly burn off a few more for pinsiders. Especially considering CLE-Pin is only a month and a half away
About 300 shipped (240-ish +60-ish)
If anyone in my area (Northern VA) wants my original/flaking backglass, they can have it for free. It has a few silver dollar sized chunks missing from the art, but is better than others I've seen. I'll probably just throw this away after a while, would prefer someone who wants it to have it, though. No shipping on this.
Quoted from animesuperj:
Finally able to add one to my collection! Only took a few years of searching, lol. Need to clean one of the 50 point switches or figure out why it gets a bit stuck when the arm comes back up. Other than that, plays great!
Check my post #54 in this thread for ideas how to get levers/switches working. I had a few that wouldn't spring back right.
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